Searched through the parts bin and found some more spares.
Oil strainer. Missing this resulted in debris and increased volume of oil into pump.
Longer nuts for exhaust, removed from the Y2K. Normal ones used to get loose with vibration easily.
Exhaust gasket that came with the packing kit. Will install next time removing the exhuast.
Installing the oil strainer. Drained the oil before the process and cleaned the strainer with diesel and blow dried.
Goes inside the tank.
Secured with the hole.
Pouring back the drained oil.
My favourite funnel came handy.
Seat bang shut and it got shattered.
Out in broad daylight. Installed the platform. Started and took a small test ride through the lane and bang, the rear wheel was punctured. Parked again.
Engine shuts off after getting hot, will idle for even 30 minutes before that. Improper tuning and choke setting. This is getting on my nerves. Badly needs a new battery, have to remove battery from Duke or Dio or even GT to start it. That process itself makes me lazy. Next being fixing the puncture. Put to rest again.
Four and a half years sitting idle and two and three-quarter years since installing new carb. Next fitness test coming up in six months. Thoughts of letting it die were disturbing me a lot. Determined to put it back on road, started working on it again, began from carb.
Condition of the (once) brand-new carb that never got a chance to work properly.
It was all gummy/murky inside.
Jets clogged again.
Thorough clean up again. Ran out of Magsol TB cleaner in between and bought an Abro, which was more powerful, but uneconomical smaller can. Had to pack up again due to severe skin irritation caused by it.
Foam air filters tends to powder over time and so did it happen. The outer net cover had already disintegrated.
Bought an air filter in 2020, but never installed due to stalled attempt. VHPL brand. Label too similar to Honda OE, decent quality.
Fast-forward two months, I came across someone asking about carb for RD350 from the same brand. Experts were saying these carbs were crude in casting and always had issues with blockage due to sanding dust and needs thorough clean up before install and will improve over usage. Got a wild idea, like I did with GT, drained the fuel in the carb and emptied the TB cleaner into it, then fed with petrol. Pulled in the Polo and energized the Kiney (as I was too desperate and might need infinite cranks).
A long attempt.
Finally fired up.
This video helped a lot in understanding about carb and carb tuning. I was following the CV carb method due to my ignorance and finally (kinda) got it right. Set the air screw at 1 turn.
Found the throttle cable was gone and requires replacement, and the scooter actually required a manual choke. The automated manual choke on the Zoom was a disaster and always failed, and Kinetic themselves converted them to manual choke. @DEViANCE helped to gain insight about that setup.
Cleaned up the frame and sprayed a coat of matt black.
and installed the resistor when dried.
Broke one of the side panel bolts that supported the whole platform during disassembly last time. It sat on 2 out of 3 bolts and over the front panel on a screw. There wasn't much stress on any of the mounts, but plagued me every time I saw the broken bit.
Sat idle for one more month. Cranked up with Beat's battery.
Up and idling.
The reason it sat for years, the puncture. Each time I manage to start, the scooter was not rideable due to the wheel, and it sits again for a long time. The side wall was too hard that the installation was super difficult, so I was cent sure I have to replace the tyre with the first puncture itself, the reason being reluctant to repair it. Now with no way out, gave it a try. Took it back to the original installer, Arun Tyre Works. His face turned down, sad, angry, helpless when he saw the mess again. Two guys tried half an hour and this was the outcome. The rim was completely damaged. As expected, the side wall refused to budge out.
Somehow, they managed to fix the puncture and hammered the rim back to almost a round. Asked not to bring it back under any circumstances
He suggested replacing the rims and not to go local branded tyres, at least not tubeless ones on this type of rim. Paid him a little extra in case I had to visit again . The tyre had cracks everywhere on the side wall.
Back home and installed
Finally, Kiney starts putting some kilometres. Rode it stripped in case it broke down on the way.
Still a head turner.
Trial was successful. Needed manually pulling in the auto-choke during startups. A new problem cropped up as well. Death wobbles above 30 km/h. Thought it was due to the deformed rim and swapped the front and rear tyres and nothing different. Zeroed down to suspension bushes.
Got bush kits from Spark Automobiles. Compatible with Activa's.
Shock absorber bush kit aka green bush kit. Gabriel make, OE supplier.
Gabriel AM-20130021-1 - ₹ 83.50
The kit consists of four green bushes and two sleeves.
Pivot arm bush kit. Goldstar brand, label mimics Honda OE parts. ₹ 138.00
Kit contains two sets of bushes, sleeves, washer, bolt and Nyloc nut.
Just need to remove front wheel for green bush install.
Removing the pivot arm exposes the green bush,
which was non-existent. I never knew there was a replaceable bush in there.
Removed and cleaned up.
Installation is pretty easy and straight forward. First insert bush on one side,
then the sleeve,
and then the other side. Done. Installing both bushes and then pushing in the sleeve needs a lot of effort.
Pivot arm bush was seized and didn't waste energy on it. Never replaced to my knowledge. Needs professional expertise, so let it be. Would remove the fork assembly and get it done at some lathe at some later time.
The nut and the bolt. Bolt was longer than stock, so thought of correcting size as the first step.
Tyre won't fit in.
Cut it to length with hacksaw.
Reversed the sides. Now there is proper clearance.
Installed everything back. Death wobble is now light wobble. Might go away with completion of the job.