My New Honda City in White - The Albus

Dr MUDHAN · Mar 17, 2014

Dear kuwaronline
I could feel the smile of my heart over your compliments, which I would stay something extra ordinary, endearing which betokens your broad, generous heart.

Your inspiring lines … ‘And yes there are hundred/thousands of people who have read/ reading this thread as non-forum member and inspired and guided just because you. They might not joined to thank you but yes you are doing excellent work keep it up...’
- Yes, has its effect and makes me to share more & more…
Please start a thread and share with us about your ANHC. I am really interested to learn something from your experience over JBL Amplifier and JBL Base tube & more…
Regards
Dr MUDHAN

Dr MUDHAN · Mar 18, 2014

Gurrala74 said:

Thanks Gurrala74 for viewing my thread.

Regarding: Torque is not that good in 2nd gear as it is knocking

I follow the old gear shifting thumb rule – I gear (10kmph) II gear (20kmph) III gear (30kmph) & 1Vth gear (40 kmph and above) and never faced this issue.
I also understand that there is some improvement in torque in my face lifted version 2012/13 as well 2014 fourth generation models.

What I understand from others observations*:

*2nd gear of Honda City is just disgusting - this issue has been discussed in many new city (2009 to 2011 models) topics.

*Older engine design had always a good low end torque, but modern designs lack it, mainly due to push towards higher RPM and better FE.

*It is normal phenomenon of internal combustion engines. It occurs due to some different octanes no. of petroleum molecules.

*Honda actually acknowledges this and claims the torque dip provides a smoother drive - Interestingly you can see a small dip in the torque curve at around 3,300 to 3,500rpm before it picks up again immediately, which is probably just about before the i-VTEC engine switches to a more aggressive cam profile.

*ANHC engine control unit doesn’t provide mush fuel at low rpm and so it has less torque at those rpm whereas above 2500 rpm it is powerful, better than any other 1300cc.

*The rpm is dropping too low and so the engine is knocking. We need to keep the rpm up.

*It could also be low-quality fuel causing knocking / poor combustion at low rpm. Change the fuel station and try adding High Octane 30% may resolve the issue. Try using a can of fuel additive - STP Octane Booster - and see if this becomes better.

*For example you approach a speed braker and you pass it in 2nd gear the car will knock a bit and if you don’t want that shift to 1 gear. 10kmph at 2nd gear, engine goes off, what else you could expect from a petrol? It’s not a diesel that would clear away with the speed constraints with its higher torque, you must downshift to get it going! Or use half clutch to give it a bit more momentum till 20kmph.

Regarding: Power delivery is not enough, was struggling to reach 100kmph and also while overtaking:

I am sorry, I am not competent enough to comment on this. I have never driven @ that speed so far.

Forum members can help, please.

kuwaronline · Mar 18, 2014

Dr MUDHAN said:

Thank you, yes sure I could start but nothing special just put on some accessories from karol baugh, Delhi and some ordered online did DIY.

Dr MUDHAN said:

Hi Gurrala74, I do have ANHC(Dec 2012) since then I drove like hell to long distance trips like Delhi-Mumbai-Alibaug-Delhi(3500km), Delhi-Manali(1300km), Mussoorie, Nainital, Rajasthan etc

I had driven to 180kmph the highest(mine) till date on NH1 with four passenger and load of luggage. Not a single car on road dared to over take me, but that was for short time like 10 min. About over taking other vehicle I still go by old principal of gear change said by Dr MUDHAN. and trust me ANHC will never disappoint you, car should always be in specific gear in specific speed just like Dr MUDHAN said. Stick to it and it wont let you down :)

On highways I normally driver above 100kmph, mostly on 110/120kmph. Some time in josh I go to 150kmph but that just for few mins and depending on road/traffic and many other factor including safety.

Till date I dont have any issue regarding speed, control, cornering(specially in hilly areas), safety. Best choice I have done to buy this beauty :)

Gurrala74 · Mar 18, 2014

@Dr.Mudhan

Thank you for the detailed explanation.

@Kuwar, I am not talking about the speed we achieve on NH1 or any other, I am talking about the quick acceleration when it is required to overtake quickly. I am driving since past 20 years as I know this old style gear change pattern based on speed and the new pattern as per the rpm, may be I am more habituated on the MJD on my Ritz which gives a quick power punch whenever I rev it beyond 2000rpm and pushes me quick to overtake, so it is not the problem of Honda City I think [:)]

HaruH · Mar 18, 2014

I know Gurrala74 sir you want that extra turbo kick while driving which is present in most of the diesel cars but not present in City. I think this is one reason for that you are not very happy with the overall result. I feel that because I am the first one who heard your review after drive so from your instant reply I can conclude that.

If you get chance to drive any other City than do drive it with some other manner apart from which you have tried in mine.

I also feel that if you are in higher gear and want sudden power while overtaking or like that then only hard pressing of throttle is not enough we have to down shift, but with my small experience of driving cars I can say that the requirement of downshift in such cases in very low in City as compare to other cars (Petrol only).
Rest all the things for torque and ratios are nicely explained by Dr MUDHAN as always. [:)]

Sandykudva · Mar 18, 2014

I have been reading this last point of Gurrala74 and wanted to say that any person who drives a diesel car will feel this difference when he goes to a NA petrol car.

It is not the Cars fault in this. The thing is that in a diesel car there is a sudden surge of power after the car hits 2000 RPM (RPM will vary from car to car) due to which the car pulls cleanly and the speeds are obtained a bit quicker. Now a person who upshifts the car gears from one turbo zone to the other will hit hundred quickly. In a petrol car the power delivery is linear and there is no sudden surge of power after any RPM unless if its a VTEC there is a bit of improvement in the power delivery at the higher RPM. In terms of Power the the Honda City or any other Petrol car has enough of it under the hood but what they lack is the Torque which is much more in the Diesels and is available to them at a earlier RPM with the help of the Turbocharger.

I faced the same issue about two days back while driving my cousins Honda Civic.

About the speed, all the cars these days are capable of cruising easily at 120-130 km/hr had just been to Pune yesterday and each and every car on the express highways is capable driving at 120-130 km/hr only few enthusiasts or the Luxury vehicles who can very easily cruise at speeds above 150 km/hr drive it at that speeds.

Highway Ranger · Mar 18, 2014

I have been driving a city for the last 4 months and have also driven on highways and ghat roads. I never felt the need to downshift for overtaking and I also found that the city surges forward at the pedal input in all gears. (even when climbing up a slope)

Gurrala74 · Mar 18, 2014

Nice explanation by HaruH(the city I am referring to is of him during my recent Pune visit), Sandy and HR.

I drove a diesel Vento, City petrol and A Punto petrol back to back on the same day. So I was more comfortable driving the Vento diesel and then comes next is Punto which has awesome power(I thought it is a diesel car, but after reaching our destination the owner Johneyboy told that it is a petrol one [lol]

). It is very common that if a car struggles in a particular gear then we down shift immediately, however I was not happy even after downshifting the gear in City. Speeds are different from the sudden acceleration. As explained by Sandy, yes almost all modern diesel cars have this turbocharger effect but again each of them vary a Swift/Ritz is different from Vista/Punto which are more linear.

HaruH I am sorry if I am bit blunt in commenting your City here, but that was my feeling finally

I will try driving one more City petrol soon and check this out, but as explained by Dr.Mudhan the 2nd gen City was really good in low end torque and even on the power delivery part, it was just a silent killer on the road.

Hope I have not gone deep OT on Dr.Mudhan's thread. Thank you for your experiences gentleman [:)]

HaruH · Mar 18, 2014

Gurrala74 said:

Not at all sir, in terms of driving everyone have own opinion. You feel like that so you explained like that only. [:)]

Dr MUDHAN · Mar 18, 2014

Thanks to all – Gurrala74, kuwaronline , HaruH , Sandykudva , Highway Ranger for having acceded to my request and rendering clarity over this topic in my thread. [clap]

Dr MUDHAN · Mar 18, 2014

CRACING said:

To CRACING

Bosch symphony horns are good choice if you like the Skoda type sound and they are compatible with OE wiring harness as they work on 5 -6 Amps.

Car’s dual horn circuit will have an inbuilt relay and that’s why you & me have no issues.

The original circuitry has parallel connections as this would ensure that each horn receives the full 12V
& in case one horn fails, the other would still continue to work.

Since you said that the horns were plugged, you are lucky as your auto electrician would have used proper female adopter.

The trumpet kind of horns should be installed in such a way that the water spray will not enter inside the horn through their opening, you did rightly & wider spacing will give surround sound. Since it is masked by bumper, you may get little sound inside the cabin, that’s ok.

I understand from experts that in ANHC, the relay is built into the under-dash fuse box/relay assembly, which is interconnected with the horn switch, which again placed near the airbag on the steering wheel.
Fiddling the place is dangerous, may result in a costly mistake by making the airbag open, if there happens a short circuit..

As long as my horns are sounding well, I am not going to worry. In case, if relay fault results which is very remote they say, that will make me to have a dedicated wiring harness with relay.

CRACING · Mar 18, 2014

Hello,

Thanks for your kind reply.

Dr MUDHAN said:

Yeah I like the skoda/vw type sound since it doesn't hurt ears as much as normal horns. Poo poo rather then tee tee. :p

Dr MUDHAN said:

Yeah thats the same thing few of my friends said. Hope I will not have any issue.

Dr MUDHAN said:

Actually I have installed the horns myself as I don't trust workers (except authorized service centers). They work fast, cut wires, break parts and install in such a way that I don't like, so I prefer to do myself.

I haven't cut the original plug/connector that connects to stock horns. Instead I made a connector that plugs in, same as male spade but half of its width. (I searched around the web if I can find connector for it but I couldn't so had to do myself) Soldered a good wire (which can hold more amps then the horn operates) and a female spade connector on the other end. Placed in the wire sleeves and heated to seal it. Installed the horns and the harness. Wish I could take some shots but the DIY was excellent. [:)]

If the same work was done by auto electrician, he would directly cut the wires, tie/twist the horn wires, tape it, place the horns where the stock ones where placed. Finally charge me 100 - 150. I don't want that fast and ugly work. [;)]

Dr MUDHAN said:

Yeah you are right. I hear the noise coming inside cabin. Of course its very little when all windows are closed but slightly more (then stock) when opened. May be because I have moved the center horn to the driver side. May be Honda knows this issue and thats why they placed it in center. But I cannot, since trumpet horns can get water splashing issue.

Dr MUDHAN said:

Yeah I read the horn fuse as located under hood, above the battery and under-dash fuse box/relay assembly but couldn't find info about its relay. Like you said, it could be in under-dash fuse box/relay assembly however I'm not gonna dig in, rather I'ed ask experts in honda service center when giving for servicing. I don't care if my horns burn out, I can buy new one but just don't want the same thing happening to the other parts.

BTW; I liked your DIY paint job. My car color is polished metallic and as usually, my car too has some deep and thin scratches. Bumper scratches cannot be seen since bumper plastic color is black but on the metal body, white lines can be seen (base paint or primer is white). I'm gonna try what you did and see how it goes. :)

Thanks...
Best Regards

kuwaronline · Mar 20, 2014

Hi Dr.MUDHAN,

I have this autocop dx series remote

Wanted to know if there any slight chance to replace this with some nice looking remotes?
This current one it quite bulky and ugly, doesn't suite the car, I did this bad decision in hurry :(

I paid around 3k for this and now dont want to change whole thing just for remote. If there is any DIY or anything, please let me know.

HaruH · Mar 20, 2014

Hello Sir, I have doubt in my mind. How you protect your car door steps from scratches as you did not install any door steps. I am thinking to install in my car as if any old person sits in car his footwear scratches the floor very badly.

The illuminated once which looks cool can be installed at any accessory shop but the problem is they cut the wire to make connections which reflects into void of warranty. So what you think on the same and really those kind of still plates are really effective?

I have read one thread here for Amaze in which he install those steps in doom light without cutting any stock wire but no one here is ready to do that as it required lots of time and efforts. Other option is Honda but the cost they quotes is not worth at all.

Dr MUDHAN · Mar 20, 2014

kuwaronline said:

@ Kuwaronline

All these remotes are ‘learning type’ and a spare remote key can be made to learn the code of remote control unit which is kept inside your car. Only thing, when you change a remote key, the controller unit will be normally reset and re-dated with a new code so that your new key will operate. So, check up with your Autocop person, pay extra for the new remote key, provided if you like the new shape.

HaruH said:

@ HaruH
I have protected them by non-illuminated plates, with engraved i-vtec logo. Somehow I don’t want to have the illuminated type for various reason.

I am out of station at present, soon I will respond to you with pictures, OK?

My New Honda City in White - The Albus

Dr MUDHAN

Honoured Member

Dr MUDHAN

Honoured Member

kuwaronline

V6

Gurrala74

V12

HaruH

V6

Sandykudva

V6

Highway Ranger

V10

Gurrala74

V12

HaruH

V6

Dr MUDHAN

Honoured Member

Dr MUDHAN

Honoured Member

CRACING

V10

kuwaronline

V6

HaruH

V6

Dr MUDHAN

Honoured Member