Ultimate Guide For Maintaining Chevrolet Beat Diesel


Thread Starter #31
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Oct 1, 2018
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Kollam
Very well done.And very well explained too. Very good DIY. Its a back breaking exercise, and takes a lot of patience+muscle power. Its highly risky too.
I know it all because I too changed all 4 struts of my Swift ,and one of the front strut of my petrol Ritz at home in 2016 , all by myself. I purchased them from the parts catalogue no. and went about doing it. And I would not like to repeat that exercise ever. I did it over a period of 4-5 days.I used to get too tired after all that.I am happy You took all the safety precautions.Still there is a fear that spring compressor tool may slip,or the car may fall down.
How do you take pics of each step,when you are so keenly working on the struts and all.Just curious.
@mayankdixit Thank You.. [:D]
Yes, the job needs A LOT of muscle power,safety precautions and patience, but that feeling after fixing the vehicle by ourself is worth the effort.. (atleast for me..:stupid:).

No matter how much precautions i take, me too has the same fear that the compressor may slip or car may fall down..[roll]

My assistant (My brother [lol]) helped me to click these pictures while working.
 
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Trivandrum , Sydney
May seem like a way baseless doubt still , "How to diagnose damaged strut mount , rather than from symptoms ?".
Visually - I saw that old mount was more dirty and had less grease (if am right ) , any other visual aids ?
 

deville_56

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Before purchasing the combination switch, why dont you try to add a relay and short the wiring of combination switches for the fog lamp and check if the wiring harness for fog lamps is getting power? [think]
Tried everything, added relay and fuse and every combinations for the extra 2 wires, but nothing happened. Would remove bumper soon to replace the air guides, so would check once again then. Mood is gone [lol]

If it works, I could remove all the extra wiring and the out of place looking (Anupam) fog lamp switch.

May seem like a way baseless doubt still , "How to diagnose damaged strut mount , rather than from symptoms ?".
Visually - I saw that old mount was more dirty and had less grease (if am right ) , any other visual aids ?
No other way than visual inspection, that needs removing it. For that effort, it's better to replace it[lol]
 
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Thread Starter #34
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
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Location
Kollam
May seem like a way baseless doubt still , "How to diagnose damaged strut mount , rather than from symptoms ?".
Visually - I saw that old mount was more dirty and had less grease (if am right ) , any other visual aids ?
@VISHNUCARCRAZY
- To diagnose a bad strut mount, you need shake the car and check for any movement in this area (Marked in this pcture). A very little bit of movement is okay, but if you see a lot of movement that is an indication of bad strut mount.
IMG_20200306_095530.jpg

- Another way to check a bad strut mount is to check for any clunking or grinding noise while turning the steering, If the sound is coming from strut mount, that is an indication of worn out bearing in the strut mount.
- The final method is visual inspection, remove the strut and check the mount for any crack,damage or excessive play
 
Thread Starter #37
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
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Location
Kollam
Custom Made Gear Knob
Finally got some time to do the leather wrapping work of the gear knob and installation of the custom made boot.
Work was done on a friendly neighborhood car accessories shop. Total Cost: 1050!
They have done an excellent job. I really like the looks!
IMG_20200314_144647_compress89.jpg

IMG_20200314_144637_compress57.jpg
 
Thread Starter #41
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
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Location
Kollam
My old alto had green color coolant and even the present Dzire also.[think]
Basically, the color of the coolant represents the the type of chemicals used in it. Some engine needs OAT Coolant, some needs IAT Coolant and some newer cars need HOAT Coolant. Green coolant normally represents IAT coolant, you need to change it once in a year. But some cars use long life coolant (LLC), it lasts upto 4-5 years, the color may change...
But unfortunately many coolant manufacturers do not follow the color codes strictly. So it is very difficult to determine a coolant by its color.
One really need to be a great mechanic to maintain a Beat ![lol]
I am not a mechanic, i am just a DIYer! [:D]
jokes apart, great DIY's.
Thank You..[:)]
 
Joined
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Trivandrum/Chennai
Kudos to your effort on the up keeping this car even when the manufacturers have sailed away from service support.
I’m sure this might help lot of beat owners who are not even part of this community to understand the maintenance requirements. [cheers]

Looking forward for more diys
 
Thread Starter #43
Joined
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Location
Kollam
DIY: How to replace Front Wheel Bearing?
Recently when i was driving the beat, i noticed a humming noise from the front driver side wheel and that humming noise is increasing when the speed increases. So i am pretty damn sure that culprit was the wheel bearing. But for a confirmation, i jacked up the front and tried to shake the wheel and noticed that the wheel has a little bit of play and also the wheel is not rotating smoothly.It confirms that the wheel bearing is worn out. When i visit CASS for the wheel bearing,they told me that the front wheel bearing costs approx. 2700 Rs! (For one side only [shock]). After hearing that,i cancelled my plan and told good bye to them and ran to my friendly aftermarket spare parts shop. He shows me SKF Bearings that costs only 900 for one side!
SKF bearings are medium quality bearings and it may lasts almost same as GM's genuine bearings. So i decided to change both sides and purchased two SKF bearings. Costs around 1800 Rs.
Okay so thats enough blaw blaw blw, lets jump into the DIY! [evil]

Tools Required
Ring Spanners
Flat Head Screw Driver
Philips Head Screw Driver
Sockets Handles and Extensions
Rubber Mallet
Thread locker
Jack
Jack Stands
Metal Wire Brush

Procedure
Step 1: Jack up the car and safely support it on jack stands


Step 2: Loosen up the axle nut and remove the wheels
Untitled63.png

IMG_20200426_000452.jpg

Before removing the axle nut, straighten up the indentation in the axle nut. (This indentation in the axle nut act as a lock that prevents from loosening up the nut.)
IMG_20200426_000535.jpg

Use a flat head screw driver to straighten up the indentation and then, remove the nut.
IMG_20200426_000509.jpg

Untitled64.png


Step 3: Remove the Brake caliper assembly
Untitled65.png

Remove the break hose from the guide
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Remove caliper mounting bracket bolts and keep the caliper caliper assembly aside
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Step 4: Remove Disc Rotor
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Remove the screw marked in the picture and remove the rotor
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Step 5: Remove Stabilizer Link (Optional)
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Loosen up the nut of the stabilizer link and remove the stabilizer link from the strut. (This step is optional, by removing the stabilizer link, you will get more room to work)
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Step 6: Remove Tie rod end
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If the tie rod end is stuck in steering knuckle, insert the nut back and hit it with a hammer.(Be careful, do not damage the nut and ball joint)
Untitled12.jpg

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Step 7: Remove the bolts that connect the steering knuckle and strut, and then separate the knuckle from strut
Untitled14.jpg

Remove the nuts and bolts holding the strut and steering knuckle
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Step 8: Remove the CV Axle from the steering knuckle
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Step 9: Remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle
Untitled21.jpg

The lower ball joint is bolted using a pinch bolt, remove the bolt and seperate the arm holding the ball joint with the help of a screwdriver
Untitled22.jpg

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After steering knuckle removed!

Step 10: Replace the Bearing
This is the most easiest step in this DIY. You don't need to do anything.:lol!: Just take the steering knuckle to your nearest lathe workshop that has a hydraulic press and press the old bearing out and install the new bearing in. It costs only apporx.150 Rs for one side.
(If you have a bearing press tool, you can use that to replace the bearing. But i know many of us (including many garages) don't have a specialized bearing press tool, thats why i am explaining this method)
Untitled26.jpg

Steering knuckle
Untitled27.jpg
Steering knuckle with new bearing
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Steering Knuckle after replacing bearing (I painted the knuckle to prevent future rusting).
Untitled29.jpg

Old damaged bearing.

Step 11: Install everything back in reverse order
Untitled31.jpg

Before installing the bolts back, clean the threads with a metal wire brush.
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Apply a little bit of grease to the splines of the axle and hub to prevent rust welding (If you have an anti seize, use anti seize).
Untitled34.jpg

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Installing CV axle
Untitled37.jpg

Inserting lower ball joint into the knuckle
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Apply little bit of thread locker to the threads of every bolts and tighten them.
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The steering knuckle is looking brand new!
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Insert the brake hose back into its guide
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Install the stabilizer link
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Untitled60.jpg

Apply a little bit of thread locker to the threads and install the axle nut. Do not forget to bend the tip of the axle nut into the lock. (Install the wheels and lower the car down before tightening the axle nut and lug nuts, otherwise the wheel may spin and you can't tighten the nuts)
Untitled61.jpg

Untitled62.jpg

Kudos! Job Completed...[clap]
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
3
Likes
1
Location
Kerala, wynad
THINGS NEEDED:
  • Zip Tag
  • Pipe Wrench (or Something like that)
PROCEDURE:
STEP:1 Remove the gear lever boot
View attachment 259413

View attachment 259414
STEP 2: Remove the zip tag and remove the leather boot from gear knob
View attachment 259415
STEP 3: Remove the gear knob
View attachment 259416
When doing this step,make sure you tighten the pipe wrench as tight as possible. Then rotate it anti-clockwise to remove the gearknob.


STEP 4 : Installing the Gear Knob

Do not use pipe wrench to tighten the gear knob,as it will damage the new gear knob. Use your hand to tighten it by pressing and rotating it clockwise

STEP 5: Installing Boot

Use a new zip tag and tie the boot end to the gear knob,and install the boot. [cheers]
You do this to the lever, you putting leverage on it and the impact goes right down on to the gear lever bush parts.
No need to use pipe wrench. Cut the rubber parts till it clears off in two sections. Just use pliers to extract the item.

DIY: How to replace Front Wheel Bearing?
Recently when i was driving the beat, i noticed a humming noise from the front driver side wheel and that humming noise is increasing when the speed increases. So i am pretty damn sure that culprit was the wheel bearing. But for a confirmation, i jacked up the front and tried to shake the wheel and noticed that the wheel has a little bit of play and also the wheel is not rotating smoothly.It confirms that the wheel bearing is worn out. When i visit CASS for the wheel bearing,they told me that the front wheel bearing costs approx. 2700 Rs! (For one side only). After hearing that,i cancelled my plan and told good bye to them and ran to my friendly aftermarket spare parts shop. He shows me SKF Bearings that costs only 900 for one side!
SKF bearings are medium quality bearings and it may lasts almost same as GM's genuine bearings. So i decided to change both sides and purchased two SKF bearings. Costs around 1800 Rs.
Okay so thats enough blaw blaw blw, lets jump into the DIY! [evil]

Tools Required
Ring Spanners
Flat Head Screw Driver
Philips Head Screw Driver
Sockets Handles and Extensions
Rubber Mallet
Thread locker
Jack
Jack Stands
Metal Wire Brush

Procedure
Step 1: Jack up the car and safely support it on jack stands


Step 2: Loosen up the axle nut and remove the wheels
View attachment 275208
View attachment 275271

Before removing the axle nut, straighten up the indentation in the axle nut. (This indentation in the axle nut act as a lock that prevents from loosening up the nut.)
View attachment 275273
Use a flat head screw driver to straighten up the indentation and then, remove the nut.
View attachment 275272
View attachment 275209


Step 3: Remove the Brake caliper assembly
View attachment 275210

Remove the break hose from the guide
View attachment 275211
Remove caliper mounting bracket bolts and keep the caliper caliper assembly aside
View attachment 275212
View attachment 275213
Step 4: Remove Disc Rotor
View attachment 275214

Remove the screw marked in the picture and remove the rotor
View attachment 275215
View attachment 275216
Step 5: Remove Stabilizer Link (Optional)
View attachment 275217

Loosen up the nut of the stabilizer link and remove the stabilizer link from the strut. (This step is optional, by removing the stabilizer link, you will get more room to work)
View attachment 275218
View attachment 275219


Step 6: Remove Tie rod end
View attachment 275220
View attachment 275221
View attachment 275222
View attachment 275223

If the tie rod end is stuck in steering knuckle, insert the nut back and hit it with a hammer.(Be careful, do not damage the nut and ball joint)
View attachment 275224
View attachment 275225
Step 7: Remove the bolts that connect the steering knuckle and strut, and then separate the knuckle from strut
View attachment 275226

Remove the nuts and bolts holding the strut and steering knuckle
View attachment 275227
View attachment 275228
View attachment 275229
Step 8: Remove the CV Axle from the steering knuckle
View attachment 275230
View attachment 275231
View attachment 275232
Step 9: Remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle
View attachment 275233

The lower ball joint is bolted using a pinch bolt, remove the bolt and seperate the arm holding the ball joint with the help of a screwdriver
View attachment 275234
View attachment 275235
View attachment 275236

View attachment 275237
After steering knuckle removed!

Step 10: Replace the Bearing
This is the most easiest step in this DIY. You don't need to do anything.:lol!: Just take the steering knuckle to your nearest lathe workshop that has a hydraulic press and press the old bearing out and install the new bearing in. It costs only apporx.150 Rs for one side.
(If you have a bearing press tool, you can use that to replace the bearing. But i know many of us (including many garages) don't have a specialized bearing press tool, thats why i am explaining this method)
View attachment 275238
Steering knuckle
View attachment 275239 Steering knuckle with new bearing
View attachment 275240
Steering Knuckle after replacing bearing (I painted the knuckle to prevent future rusting).
View attachment 275241
Old damaged bearing.

Step 11: Install everything back in reverse order
View attachment 275242

Before installing the bolts back, clean the threads with a metal wire brush.
View attachment 275243
Apply a little bit of grease to the splines of the axle and hub to prevent rust welding (If you have an anti seize, use anti seize).
View attachment 275244
View attachment 275245
View attachment 275246

Installing CV axle
View attachment 275247
Inserting lower ball joint into the knuckle
View attachment 275248
View attachment 275249
View attachment 275250

Apply little bit of thread locker to the threads of every bolts and tighten them.
View attachment 275251
View attachment 275252
View attachment 275253
View attachment 275254
View attachment 275255
View attachment 275256

The steering knuckle is looking brand new!
View attachment 275258
View attachment 275257
View attachment 275259
View attachment 275260
View attachment 275261
View attachment 275262
View attachment 275263

Insert the brake hose back into its guide
View attachment 275264
View attachment 275265

Install the stabilizer link
View attachment 275266
View attachment 275267


View attachment 275268
Apply a little bit of thread locker to the threads and install the axle nut. Do not forget to bend the tip of the axle nut into the lock. (Install the wheels and lower the car down before tightening the axle nut and lug nuts, otherwise the wheel may spin and you can't tighten the nuts)
View attachment 275269
View attachment 275270

Kudos! Job Completed...[clap] y using thread locker everywhere...hey it's gonna be real tight the next time to remove those nuts.. he he. Just kidding
Do mention the socket size for hub nut. Please.
 
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