I had turboed my car a couple of years earlier. But the whole thing got messy. Power gains made it huge fun to drive, but my lack of time resulted in fried pistons. Better get a F10d from the Waggie/Alto 1.1 and plonk it in. Lots of fun, lots of reliablity.
To start with Turbocharging
Basic things you need to know what it turbo charging
Increases the Pressure inside the intake manifold with the help of compressor(runs with the turbine which turns with exhaust gases) which makes this whole combustion process fast .
When you turbo charge an engine , your increasing pressure inside the combustion chamber it will make your car go faster than another ones of same engine ..However not to forget your head(block) and pistons will suffer due to lack of engine design.
Some engines are designed to take pressure only to certain point.
I would have helped if you had given me some hints relating to this.
Anyways if your still willing to make this happen remember things you need:
1 Custom head to take excess pressure say upto 20 PSi
2 Custom / Tomei /Aftermarket Pistons to withstand the pressure
3 Re-bore if necessary
4 Aftermarket Cam, Clutch ,sway bars etc etc
5 Turbo charger, boost controller , boost gauge, intercooler , custom intake manifold and air intake with AFM and most importantly a Computer (ECU to work with it)
6 Bigger radiator and upgraded water pump
7 Bigger fuel pump
8 Spark plugs according to the heat range
9 Throttle body ( with maf and TPS )
Im glad that someone is looking at turbocharging the good ol Maruti 800. Its not that bad and its definitely fun for sure if you get around setting it up well.
I presume your M800 (1998) is a carby and not fuel injected. Getting a carby setup to run turbo is a bit more tricky that to do a fuel injected turbo setup.
I did a M800 carby turbo setup about 5yrs back and now running another Fuel injected M800 turbo setup (Daily drive). Both were fun projects and not meant for racing. It was much more challenging to get the carby turbo setup working well as compared to the fuel-injected M800.
You may want to consider these points if you are planning on turboing your carby M800 -
1. Decide if you want to go "Blow through" type or "suck through" type turbo setup.
(Both have their own set of challenges to say the least)
2. Preferably opt for a positive manifold pressure friendly carburetor if planning on a "blow through" setup. (Stock/OEM carby may bleed petrol from different places when on boost)
3. Decide on a good Turbo suitable for small displacement engine -
eg for street setup - IHI RHB3, IHI RHF3, small Hitachi unit, KKK KP39 ..... and the likes.
4. Fabrication -
a. Fabricate adapters/flanges for the new carburetor.
b. Fabricate new turbo exhaust manifold and turbo bump pipe + high flow exhaust.
c. Fabricate intake plumbing considering the location of your intercooler (TMIC or FMIC)
5. Check if you have any option to buy ignition control unit that will help you to pull out/ retard timing with the onset of boost. You can do a build without it provided you are not planning on high boost.
From my personal experience turbocharging few cars including my present Baleno turbo and M800 MPFI turbo, its much easier to setup a fuel injected turbo setup with the help of a good Piggyback ECU or a stand alone unit with the help of someone who can help you tune it for the right AFR and igniting timing.
You got a good working knowledge of turbo charging you cars .
Piggy back, what brands are you considering .
Because I know piggy backs do stuff up the engine. I just changed my whole engine. I was running standard ecu with haltech and then took that out and normal some microtech rubbish piggy back that failed and my car started smoking out a blue smoke cloud. End up having a blown up rings
Piggy back is not a good idea , I'd suggest you to get a standalone unit.
Yes, I think codename is right -Standalone units are much better at handling engine parameters independently. For a standalone setup you may need a very good tuner or someone who has really good hands on tuning skills to get it running well/reliably.
It would be unfair to compare Piggybacks to Standalone units. Piggybacks do offer some flexibility for street cars with mods, provided things are setup well.
In many cases in India (if not all) the reason for engine failure has not been the ECU (standalone or piggyback), it has been more to do with the maps that the cars were running.
I have used/owned a few piggyback units from the SAFC/VAFC types to E-manage Blues. They served my purpose quite well on my cars (VW corrado with a supercharger - turbo swap, Swift GTi turbo wtc) while I was in the US. Popular standalone units like the M400, 800s and others are often very expensive to buy. lol. Need deeper pockets for that. Im presently using an Indian standalone unit now RD901 - it does not have as many features as Motecs and the likes but its a bit more affordable and can get things done just fine.
In short, if its a expensive build - dont take chances, standalone is anytime better.
If its a budget build - A reliable piggyback like the emanage etc can be used in most cases. But it has its own limitation (eg. you may find it difficult to do an ITB alpha-N tune with most piggybacks)
Piggy backs are okay for NORMAL mods , because I have seen heavily modified cars running piggy backs , you might get the power but it might harm your engine in long run. If you afford to modify your car you can spare some money for a decent pro plugin ecu too
Greddy Emanage is a good piggy back and even haltech sprint series can be a good replacement for them.
Microtech , Motec also have those add ons.
I am still surprised to see Indian market has piggy backs in productions.
Some OEM Ecu's are not made for remapping they do sometimes but then it can be a major stuff up and you may sooner or later realise that you car is running on emergency mode once they fail.
I was so keen to get an Apexi Power Fc for my skyline but then dropped the Idea
Indian ECU market is still in its nascent stages but quickly evolving. More so with Diesel piggybacks and remaps.
Many of Older OEM ECUs with EEPROMS could be remapped (reflash and or rechip). Later on HONDA guys got together to crack their OBDI ecus. Older honda ECUs can be easily modded with daughter boards to run as standalone units with similar features as popular standalone. Very impressive for the price you pay. Many of the VW/Audi etc too can be remapped with the right tool - right through the OBD port.
Sometimes trying to hack into new gen ECUs may just brick the ECU. And reviving the ECU may be very difficult. Some of the new BOSCH EDC17s and the likes are supposed to be much more difficult to remap as compared to older ECUs.
Good to hear about that man. so your remapping ECU's as well
Why would you play around new gen Ecu's ? if you have a performance car you can get so many aftermarket parts man . Seriously there is just no end. check the thread RB25DET engine I made in this section. Very nice engine that is. Guy was running Greddy e manage piggy back.
Most of these (DETs, 2JZ, B16/18 etc) belong to the dream category for us in India.
Here mods are mostly based on - Suzuki G13B, G16B, Honda D15 and a few others here and there. Most of cars available here are not popular tuning platforms abroad except a few G13 DOHC GTis and some D15s.