PowerPig! KTM Duke 390 - October 2014


Thread Starter #211

deville_56

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August 2021 - ABS Controller Shopping

Pinged MySpareMarket guy for ABS module and he replied with the list of available models and pictures. Offer price was even cheaper this time. Unfortunately, older versions were not available.

Available options were:
93342031000 - 2017-18 Duke 390.
93542031000 - 2017-18 RC390
93512031100 - 2018 Duke/RC 390
JF131815 - Dominar

IMG-20210807-WA0001.jpg
IMG-20210808-WA0011.jpg
IMG-20210808-WA0012.jpg
IMG-20210808-WA0015.jpg


Went ahead and ordered the Duke 2017 model's unit. He agreed to replace if incompatible.

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Installed and tested. No signs of life.

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Sent back and he replaced with another unit.

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Returned that and he refunded the amount. Wanted to try other part numbers as well, but didn't want to waste his time and money.

Compared to the 2014-15 controller, removed from Fayad's RC.

2021-08-31 17-46-55.jpg
 
Thread Starter #212

deville_56

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September 2021 - Small, Yet Significant Hack

Visited the dealer a couple of times for 2017 model clutch lever boot, but they seemed the least interested in procuring one. Only hope now is Bajaj launching adjustable levers on Dominar soon and ordering one via Bajaj dealer. Part number is JG161009, in case anyone wanna try with their KTM dealer.

This is how non-adjustable model's boot messing with the adjustable lever. Sometimes, it's so much irritating and feels as of gonna jam between the lever.

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Grabbed the detailing knife and made a cut.

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Decent cut and made life a bit easy.

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Thread Starter #213

deville_56

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September 2021 - Messing with the Donor ABS Controller

Had the ABS controller removed from the RC390. It was an already repaired unit, so breaking open wasn't a hard.

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90142031000 - The controller is same as ours.

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September 2013 make.

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Found out the issue was with the rear section, but further diagnosis and repair was beyond my capacity. Friend of mine (read, his dad) runs a ECU and auto electronics repair shop and contacted him, and he said it can be repaired but procuring parts would take due to the pandemic, may be months. So, decided not to repair for the time being.

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Board sits on one side and motor on the opposite side.

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Motor side is secured with inverted torx bolts.

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There was so much itch to open that side, so ended up ordering a set of Yato YT-0520. I don't think there would be use with this after this madness. ₹499 + ₹40 shipping from Flipkart.

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Yato is a Polish brand with their biggest manufacturing unit in Shanghai, but no mention of country of origin anywhere.

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Smaller bits for 1/4" drive and bigger ones for 3/8" drive. Also included is a 1/4"-3/8" conversion bit. Ordered a Stanley 3/8"-1/2" conversion bit to complete this convertor collection [lol]

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Just needed this E5 bit.

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Unbolted.

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Speciality torx bolts.

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Inside the cover. Magnet and bearing and a lot of brush dust.

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Motor armature and winding. Seven-pole motor.

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Brush sits under. spring loaded.

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Lift the spring to release the brush.

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Brush wear difference.

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Number K69. It's copper carbon brush for hard and slow wearing. Tried sourcing, toured the entire tool repairing stretches of Trivandrum, majority have not eeven seen them. One veteran guy asked not to go for regular carbon brush as it will vanish in no time.

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Dirt inside the cover, before cleaning.

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Back to square one. Closed and sealed with gasket maker.

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Testing.

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Speedo and odo working fine. No ABS.

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Decided to install this unit for the time being. Will get another one or repair this at a later time. Prime motive is to keep track of the miles clocked.

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Thread Starter #214

deville_56

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October 2021 - ABS Replacement - Parts

ABS Control Unit. Sealed and tie shut.

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Copper Washer for bango bolts. Needs 8 of them, in case all damaged. Bought from KTM Probiking Service.

DE191010 - ₹ 5.40/piece (₹ 27.00 for pack of 5).

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Got 5 more from Bajaj spares (A-One). Same for most Bajaj model front brake banjos. Went there in search for another copper washer and bought these as there were 2 bikes being worked on.

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KTM and Bajaj packing.

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KBX Super 5 DOT-4 Brake Fluid - 250 ml - MRP ₹ 110.00, got for ₹ 105.00 from Spark Automobiles.

250 ml more than enough to bleed both brakes.

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An old rug or kitchen towel. Need to deal with a lot of fluid spill.

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Bonus - Coolant change

Motul Motocool Expert - ₹ 385.00 (Got for ₹ 350.00 from Ex-Jawan)

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Copper Washer for Water Pump - 39166511 - ₹ 3.00/piece.
All liquid-cooled Bajaj models got the same part, but Bajaj spare guys have never seen'em.

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Thread Starter #215

deville_56

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October 2021 - ABS Replacement - Disassembly - Part 1

Disconnect battery before the start.

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Remove all encircled bolts and coolant tank cap.

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Pop open the fuel lid and remove the tank cover.

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Lock the tank to prevent evaporation.

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Disconnect ECU.

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Connector to fuel tank for fuel pump and float.

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Fuel line to throttle body. Disconnect both of them and remove the tank.

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Secure the fuel line above fuel level. Plug the end if there is too much fuel.

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First visual of the ABS unit. RR unit and flasher unit hinders access.

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Remove the Allen bolt

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and flasher assembly comes off with the clamp. Flasher alone can be removed by just pulling, but better with everything removed.

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DC Flasher - JG402002 - Common for all Bajaj/KTM models with LED indicator.

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Connector side.

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RR unit. Off two bolts and it comes off. Don't forget the ground connection during reinstall.

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RR unit, front view. Negative out is grounded.

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Positive out coupler. Disconnect that. Other connector is the previously disconnected tank connector.

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Stator connector. Disconnect this as well.

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RR unit is all yours.

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Part number JG402003.

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Thread Starter #216

deville_56

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October 2021 - ABS Replacement - Disassembly - Part 2

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The shot ABS unit. Three 10-mm bolts, middle and LH ones easily accessible.

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RH side hindered by coolant tank and ignition coil. Both need to be removed.

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Access to RH side bolt. Tricky and only an open-ended wrench will fit in.

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Brake hoses needs to be removed before removing the unit, but make sure all mounting bolts can be undone before that. Make a note of the hose positions before removing them.

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14-mm socket.

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Remove one by one. Use the rug to prevent spillage everywhere.

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Collect the fluid.

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Banjo bolt and copper washers.

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Once all 4 hoses are disconnected and drained, wrap with the towel and clear if off the field.

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Gotta remove spark plug cap to make room to pull the unit out.

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ABS controller with clamp.

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Install location.

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Divorcing the clamp. Two 8 mm M6 bolts.

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Comes free. Think the explosion was due to short circuit because of water entry due to poor sealing. 2017 model ABS unit bought previously had a sealed cover.

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Old dead vs partially working old.

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Bullet hole [lol]

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Thread Starter #217

deville_56

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October 2021 - ABS Replacement - Install

Cleaning the mess.

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Clamp.

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Mounted on clamp.

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Ready to install.

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Squeeze in.

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En position.

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Three 10-mm bolts and washers.

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Bolted down.

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Spark plug hole.

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Bonus - can check the plug condition. Decent condition, but installed long back.

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Connector for ABS unit. Originally had locking latch, broken by one of the morons who worked on the bike.

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Cover that fell off.

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Covered and tied.

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Plug in the unit as well as the spark plug connector.

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Bango bolts and copper washers. Dirty ones are for rear ones. Rear fluid tends to rot early.

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Old vs new. Old one was thicker and in good shape, so retained the old ones. The ones on RC390 were in pretty bad shape and fluid was leaking, and so replaced them.

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A washer on either side of the hose.

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Inner one tends to fall off, so better to install washer first and then the banjo.

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Plumbing done.

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Bleeding. Tap the bolt lightly before undoing. First time changing fluid in 7 years.

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Fill it, pump it.

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Went well without any drama, took less than 5 mins, straight.

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Rear bleeding. Break loose using a 6-point socket as spanner tend to slip and damage the bleeding screw.

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11 mm for rear. 8 mm for front.

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Rear wasn't pumping.

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Rear brake fluid reservoir.

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Old dirty fluid. Very much foul smelling.

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Tried reverse bleeding. Nothing budged. Tried removing the rear MC, but the bolt was stuck and hardly accessible, only an open-ended straight spanner will fit, but kept slipping, rounding the nut.

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Removed the hose from the MC and this black muck fell off, indicating there was even more inside the MC. Ordered a 10-mm combination spanner from Amazon right away.

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Clean the garage and mess.

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Assemble everything in reverse order. Plug all connectors and better. Do a test drive to see everything is in working. While installing, tumbled the tank losing all the petrol [cry].

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Thread Starter #218

deville_56

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October 2021 - Coolant Change (Bonus Track)

Continuation from the ABS job. Bike wasn't assembled back, still stripped.

The water Pump and drain bolt.

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Used an 8-mm socket to remove the drain bolt and drained the coolant.

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Drain bolt with gasket aka copper crush washer.

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Old coolant collected.

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Radiator cap removed. Needed some extra effort to remove as it was jammed. Used the old school jumbo pipe wrench.

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The exact opposite side of the radiator cap on the LH side is the air vent.

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Removed the bolt to open up the vent. .

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No need to remove the bolt completely, it's slotted on the side, so will work even with half or one third way out.

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Flushed the radiator. Let the water flow freely, didn't force it. Might get the impeller damaged, very sensitive.

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Let the water drain completely.

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Coolant tank. Removed and cleaned the coolant tank since it was accessible.

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Coolant tank is mounted on this rubber grommet and secured with a 10-mm bolt.

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Retained the old washer since it was in good shape.

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Secured back the coolant drain bolt.

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Old vs new, both Motocool Expert, 4 year 20-25k km old.

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Installed the reservoir and used a funnel to fill up coolant.

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Don't spill the coolant, I said don't [lol]

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Keep an eye on the air vent. It will reach the brim the same time it's about to overflow. Install the vent bolt back.

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Radiator cap. Install them too.

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Fill the reservoir to the max, it will take exactly 1 L coolant till this point, and won't end there.

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Start up and idle (or ride or rev)

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till the temperature gauge shoots up

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and the radiator fan kicks in. Took a good 15 minutes. With old coolant it took less than 10 minutes. (Check once in a while whether the fan is functional, fail rate high with initial KTM fans).

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Corrected coolant level.

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Had some left from another change. Manual says 1.1 L.

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Topped up to max level.

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Reassembled everything and done (without rear brakes [evil]).

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Thread Starter #220

deville_56

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Kindly wear a gloves bro , when working with brake fluid.
Want to, but forgets every time. Doc warned one time. I developed skin sensitivity to most of these stuffs over time. Brake fluid causes burning sensation, and anything with aerosol causes itching and redness. Just last Friday went to dermatologist after accidentally spraying throttle body cleaner on left hand. After all these, I advise every one to be cautious [frustration].
 
Thread Starter #221

deville_56

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October 2021 - Rear Brake Master Replacement

Combination spanner arrived. ₹ 39.00 with free shipping from Amazon. Only tool that fits in the space. Open-ended will slip and rings won't accommodate in the right space.

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Due to impatience, ended up breaking the head of one of the bolts. Removed the second one without issue. No photos of bolt location due to this bizarre incident. MC connected to pedal via a pin, secured with split pin.

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MC finally free.

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All muck inside. No surprise it is jammed.

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Rust as well.

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Brake light switch was integrated into the banjo bolt, pressure type. It's a bit tricky to remove without removing the MC from the bike.

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The rear master cylinder.

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Tried repairing.

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Circlip pliers and the circlip.

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Disassembled and cleaned.

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Still jammed.

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Went to Prime Motors, the neighbourhood Bajaj/KTM service centre. Compared Duke MC with Dominar's and both were same (as expected).

Rear Master Cylinder - DK151031 - ₹ 740.00

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New vs old.

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Other views. Rubber cover was Brembo part.

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Bajaj Brake Fluid DOT4 (100 ml) - 36DH4061 - ₹ 65.00

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Installed the MC with single bolt. Broken shaft piece of the second bolt prevents moving around. Removing the broken piece is a mess, have to remove the foot rest holder, which needs removing the swingarm axle, which needs the bike to be suspended on rope.

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Banjo bolt cleaned.

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Replaced the split pins with retaining R clips, Honda part, ₹ 2.50/piece.

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Everything put back and bled. It was a cakewalk, took very little time.

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Filled to level.

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Deformed diaphragm.

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Can be put back to shape easily.

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All done.

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Finally, a proper test ride to check everything is in line. Glad to see working speedo. Meter showed 27 kmpl for a 10 km trip.

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Thread Starter #222

deville_56

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October 2021 - Anti Slip Adventure Foot Rest

Bought from My Spare Market. Original KTM part. Paid ₹ 1,600.00 for a pair.

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Comparison with stock foot peg.

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Comparison with 200NS (replica) peg.

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Installed.

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Surface area is more and flat. Feels odd at first after being used to stock foot rest for years, but feels more comfortable in relaxed mode and a bite more confident in dodging bad patches.

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All 3 together.

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Adventure mode [evil]

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Just remove the 8-mm nut and the retaining clamp.

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Tilted the bike holding the foot rest, forgot about the bull spikes [frustration]

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Thread Starter #224

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December 2021 - Spark Plug Replacement

Bought NGK Laser Iridium plugs (again).

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LKAR8AI-9 .

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Made in Japan. Huge price bump from 2018. It was ₹ 280.00 then. Now it's ₹ 435.00. Got from Amruth Auto Spares, NGK two-wheeler plug dealer. Normally, they would offer 5-10% off on NGK plugs, but nothing significant for Iridium, ₹ 5.00.

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Needle tip.

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Installation. Hard to reach and deep spark plug adapter. Pull it out, bit tricky with tank on, very little room.

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Spark plug wrench from KTM tool kit.

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13-mm socket to break it loose.

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Spark plug wrench length is how deep the plug sits.

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Old plug. Four years old and clocked at least 18k km.

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Old vs new.

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@vijesh_360 and @Mr_Many_Places Found the 1.7 L at friend's SBK garage, bought in by the customer from KTM spares. Checked manuals and they were saying 15W50 [lol]. OEs are the biggest hypocrites.

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