Now, That's a Man: Pre-Worshipped Maruti Suzuki SX4 ZDi (Rebuild & Ownership Review)


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Hello Folks,
If you guys already read my thread Ultimate Guide For Maintaining Chevrolet Beat Diesel, you may know that after selling my beat diesel, I started the hunt for a sedan. This thread is the continuation of that story...[:D]
I tried my best to add as much details and technical informations as possible. Hope this thread may be useful for many....

The Hunt
The size, the comfort and the design of the hatchbacks really become tedious to me after i had used them for so long. I really need an upgrade as quick as possible, but at the same time i don't want an entry level sedan because it lacks the feel and looks of a proper sedan. Buying a new car is way out of my list because of my very tight budget and the new BS6 Emission Norms (BS6 really chokes the diesel engine and makes the engine unreliable when comparing to BS4).

Things I Want:
  • Comfortable for Long Drives
  • Low Maintenance
  • Good Space (Legroom, Headroom,Boot space)
  • Good Handling
  • Mileage
  • Spare Parts Availability
  • Adequate Power

Cars Shortlisted according to my budget:

Fluidic Verna
I really love that car. Its so powerful, fun to drive and looks really hot. But when it comes to 'maintenance' it may blast your pockets especially if you are planing for engine rebuild. So i decided to leave that dream and move on...[sad]

Tata Manza Quadrajet
Its a good car with good space,Fiat's Multijet engine and good handling. But i really hate the look of that car, it feels so boring and outdated.So decided to skip it

Maruri Suzuki Sx4
Its a very good car with Comfortable seats, Good handling, Cheaper to maintain (some parts are not that cheap), Multijet 90hp Engine, Spacious Cabin, Boot etc. My favourite part of this car is that it doesn't feel cheap like other maruti cars..

So after a ton of research i decided to go for Sx4. But finding a good Sx4 is little tough. Even though Sx4 is a very good car, the 90hp Multijet is not as reliable as the 74bhp varient. I saw many Sx4 owners done engine overhaul at just 90/100K kms.
(Imagine purchasing a car from a very tight budget and then later you are realizing that you need an engine overhaul!!
That will be horrible...)I don't want to take that risk.
So instead of purchasing a pre owned Sx4 that runs below 1L kms, i decided to go for a car that runs above 1L kms.
It may sound crazy, but trust me, that was the best decision I ever made!![evil]
After searching in Olx for a week, i finally found a car with very good condition. I immediately called the owner and booked an appointment.
When we reached his place, this was the view waiting for us.

Love at First Sight...
Compress_20220424_182750_0272.jpg

Compress_20220424_182751_1693.jpg

The car was in excellent condition. Even though the car crossed 1.67L Kms, it didn't feels like that. (I have driven many Sx4 before as a part of this hunt, but those cars are not as clean and good as this one.) The owner maintained the car very well and did periodic services regularly at MASS.
He also told me that he recently replaced the radiator fan motor and vacuum pump.
After inspecting the car thoroughly, i am fully satisfied with the condition of the car.. (Ofcourse the engine needs overhaul, but thats not a problem for me right now...)
So without wasting anymore time, we fixed the deal with the owner at a decent price and bring her to my home exactly that day..

At My Home
Compress_20220424_190604_4296.jpg

Compress_20220424_190606_6604.jpg

Interiors
Compress_20220424_190608_8332.jpg

Compress_20220424_190607_7571.jpg


Problems with the car:
  • Heavy White Smoke at Cold Start (Indication of worn out valve seal)
  • Second Gear is not engaging properly (Common problem of this gearbox)
  • Rattling noise from front suspension
  • Wornout Gear Knob, Boot and Lever assembly (Excess freeply from gear lever)
  • Very High Oil Consumption
  • Sticky Steering Wheel
  • Leaks from Transmission
  • RPM Fluctuations
  • Lots of Minor and Major Scratches in almost every part of the body [frustration]
Except that, the overall conditon of the vehicle is very good..
(No accident history, no rust buildup, no sensor or wiring related issues. Each and every function of the vehicle is working properly and the vehicle is very neatly maintained)
 
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Thread Starter #4
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Engine Bay
Compress_20220425_105313_3327.jpg

Cooling system is filled with tap water not coolant
Compress_20220425_105314_4296.jpg

Rust buildup inside cooling system due to tapwater
Compress_20220425_105315_5231.jpg

Brake Fluid needs replacement
Compress_20220425_105317_7663.jpg
Compress_20220425_105316_6336.jpg

Leaky Turbo!
Compress_20220425_105321_1484.jpg

Condition of underbody
Compress_20220425_105311_1651.jpg
Compress_20220425_105310_0463.jpg

Gearbox and Engine is completly covered with oil and dirt
Compress_20220425_105307_7241.jpg
Compress_20220425_105319_9066.jpg
Compress_20220425_105320_0276.jpg

White Smoke at Cold Start!
IMG_20220425_114040.jpg

Scratches in the bodypanels [frustration]
Compress_20220425_105259_9097.jpg
Compress_20220425_105300_0357.jpg

The Cockpit
Compress_20220425_105323_3515.jpg

Cockpit at Night!!
Compress_20220425_105302_2475.jpg

Good Legroom.
Compress_20220425_105325_5476.jpg

Good Bootspace also
Compress_20220425_105324_4480.jpg

205 60 R16 Tyres
Compress_20220425_105326_6508.jpg

Random Clicks
Compress_20220425_105312_2367.jpg

Compress_20220425_111057_7323.jpg

Compress_20220425_111056_6141.jpg

Enough talking, Lets begin the OVERHAUL..(Ofcourse its a DIY[evil])
I wasn't able to take pictures of some processes due to dirty hands. Sorry for that...

Removing the Aftermarket Horn
Compress_20220425_115417_7672.jpg

Compress_20220425_115420_0260.jpg

Removing the Intercooler
Compress_20220425_115421_1756.jpg
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Removing the crossmember
Compress_20220425_115423_3553.jpg
Compress_20220425_115424_4729.jpg

Crossmember Removed
Compress_20220425_115425_5908.jpg

Now let's remove this engine cover and remove the injectors
Compress_20220425_115426_6806.jpg

Remove the connector
Compress_20220425_115427_7890.jpg
Compress_20220425_115428_8844.jpg
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Now remove the metal clip and remove the return pipe
Compress_20220425_115430_0746.jpg

Compress_20220425_115431_1742.jpg
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After that, remove the allen bolt that holds the injector
Compress_20220425_115433_3356.jpg
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Compress_20220425_115435_5482.jpg

Compress_20220425_115436_6260.jpg

Now remove the high pressure line using 14mm double end spanner (Flare Nut Spanner is the best here)
Compress_20220425_115437_7429.jpg
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After removing the high pressure line, cover the pipes immediatly with insulation tape to prevent dirt or dust
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Now lets disconnect the wiring harness to make more space
Compress_20220425_115442_2133.jpg
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Now let's remove the injector..
(In many cases these injectors won't come loose that easily, so before overhauling the engine, I poured brake fluid into this area for around 1 week and drove the vehicle with that. This trick will loosen up the injectors and you can easily remove injectors without the injector puller)
Compress_20220425_115444_4785.jpg
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After removing the injector!! See how well that trick works![clap]
Compress_20220425_115446_6613.jpg
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Now lets disconnect all sensors and pipes!
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MAF Sensor
Compress_20220425_115458_8032.jpg

Removing the Condensor
Compress_20220425_115459_9921.jpg
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Condensor Removed
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After removing the condesnor, close the pipeline with a clean rag or masking tape immediately
Compress_20220425_115505_5117.jpg

Draining the radiator..
Compress_20220425_115505_5567.jpg
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Remove the reservoir cap to speedup the process
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Rust Juice..
Compress_20220425_115519_9745.jpg

Removing the radiator
Compress_20220425_115513_3392.jpg
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Remove all the hoses from and to the radiator
Compress_20220425_115515_5744.jpg
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Radiator Removed
Compress_20220425_124751_1712.jpg
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Leaky turbo!! This is one of the main culprits behind the famous 'Oil Consumption' issue in the 90bhp Multijet Engines.
Compress_20220425_115526_6087.jpg
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Condition of Gearbox
Compress_20220425_115526_6854.jpg
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Rusty battery box..
Compress_20220425_115528_8796.jpg

Removing the ECU
Compress_20220425_115529_9885.jpg
Compress_20220425_115531_1492.jpg
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Magneti Marelli's ECM
Compress_20220425_115535_5572.jpg

Even though it looks horrible, it's nothing to worry about.. Its just surface rust and we can easily remove it..
Compress_20220425_115536_6565.jpg
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Disconnecting the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Compress_20220425_115538_8411.jpg

Compress_20220425_115539_9376.jpg

Disconnecting the Oil Pressure Switch
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Disconnecting the Fuel Pressure Regulator
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Disconnecting the Temperature Sensor
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Removing the Water pump outlet pipe
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Disconnecting Ac Compressor wiring
Compress_20220425_115545_5727.jpg
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Remove the two bolts holding the wiring harness
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Disconnect the Rail Pressure Sensor
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Remove the coolant reservoir
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Wiring harness partially removed
Compress_20220425_115552_2685.jpg

Now lets disconnect the vaccum and fuel hoses
Compress_20220425_115553_3623.jpg


To be contined......
 

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mayankdixit

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Wonderful!! You are overhauling it properly. There is very little rusting in underbody area.
You could have pressure washed it thoroughly before proceeding with the work. That way it would have been easy to work with clean engine bay as well as differentiate rusted from non rusted areas.


I have never used brake fluid to loosen up / clean injectors. It's scary. I always hear brake fluid is toxic and corrosive for paint etc. It might enter somewhere it's not supposed to be.

Are you doing it all by yourself or there is a mechanic/helper/brother/assistant to help you out ?
 
Last edited:
Thread Starter #6
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Wonderful!! You are overhauling it properly. There is very little rusting in underbody area.
You could have pressure washed it thoroughly before proceeding with the work. That way it would have been easy to work with clean engine bay as well as differentiate rusted from non rusted areas.
Yeah, but i dont think washing makes any huge difference at this stage... Because the engine and gearbox was completly soaked with very thick layer of oil and dirt. We can't use pressure washer in those areas.. As my primary focus was on the engine and gearbox, i don't think washing makes any huge benifit in this conditon..
So i decided to skip the washing process..

I have never used brake fluid to loosen up / clean injectors. It's scary. I always hear brake fluid is toxic and corrosive for paint etc. It might enter somewhere it's not supposed to be.
I agree with you. (I know that brake fluid is not good for plastic and painted surfaces), but trust me, as per my experience, it won't damage anything here if you use it correctly.
You only need a little bit of brake fluid near the injector, and that little amount of brake fluid won't spill or enter any other area.
If you still don't like using brake fluid, you can use Coca-Cola as an alternative.[:D]
WD-40, Zorrik 88 etc won't work well if the injector is seized too much.. Because it may evaporate quickly when the engine warms up..

Are you doing it all by yourself or there is a mechanic/helper/brother/assistant to help you out ?
Yes, I am doing this all by myself.[:D]
My brother (who is not interested in this kind of stuff) is helping me only for the removal and Installation of the engine.
 

mayankdixit

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Are you doing it all by yourself or there is a mechanic/helper/brother/assistant to help you out ?
Yes, I am doing this all by myself.[:D]
My brother (who is not interested in this kind of stuff) is helping me only for the removal and Installation of the engine.
Hats off to you man! Not many will dare venture into that territory where you are treading comfortably.
 

mayankdixit

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Its very surprising to see that the radiator has 2 fans and both are totally different.
They are of different sizes different shapes and different blade numbers,5 and 7 too !! Is it OEM ??

This is how it is in my Nexon.
IMG-20220426-WA0002.jpg
IMG-20220426-WA0001.jpg






And this is from your car
Please match the part nos. Looks weird, unless of course if its engineered intentionally.

1650952630819.png
 
Last edited:

deville_56

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Thread Starter #10
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Removing fuel pipes, vacuum pipes and every other things necessary to remove the engine
Compress_20220425_115554_4906.jpg
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Draining Engine Oil
Compress_20220425_115559_9933.jpg
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Removing Drive Axle
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Condition of Transmission Oil!
Look at those golden particles in the transmission oil. It is from the synchronizer ring, and this is a clear indication of a worn out synchronizer ring.
(This is a common problem for many Maruti cars that share the same gearbox.)
Compress_20220425_115613_3381.jpg

Removing the Engine Mount (Middle)
Compress_20220425_115615_5243.jpg
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Compress_20220425_115619_9903.jpg

Removing the Gear Shift Cable
Compress_20220425_115621_1447.jpg
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Removing Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Pipe
Compress_20220425_115627_7088.jpg
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Removing the remaining wiring harness (Alternator & Starter)
Compress_20220425_115641_1037.jpg
Compress_20220425_115640_0593.jpg

Engine Ready to Remove..
[I am not encouraging anyone to use this method. Because this method is too risky, especially if you don't have enough experience. A small mistake may end up damaging your engine block or gearbox housing, which costs a bomb to replace. So do not try this method if you don't have enough confidence and support (you need at least 3 people to do this properly).]
I HIGHLY RECOMEND to use a chain block or engine hoist to remove the engine.
Compress_20220425_115639_9752.jpg

Engine removed[clap]
Compress_20220426_112240_0445.jpg
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Let's start stripping..
Compress_20220426_112242_2412.jpg

Oil Cooler Removed
Compress_20220426_112243_3400.jpg
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Removing Water Pump
Compress_20220426_112246_6854.jpg
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Removing Oxygen Sensor
Compress_20220426_112248_8808.jpg

O2 is clogged with carbon
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Removing Engine Mount Bracket
Compress_20220426_112252_2054.jpg

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Rear view of the engine
Compress_20220426_112254_4200.jpg

Ton of space to work with EGR. (Anyone who tried to clean the EGR on this engine may know the struggle.):lol!:
Compress_20220426_112254_4999.jpg

Vaccum Tank
Compress_20220426_112255_5981.jpg

EGR Valve Assembly
Compress_20220426_112256_6434.jpg
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Intake Manifold
Compress_20220426_112259_9636.jpg
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Removing Serpentine Belt Tensioner
Compress_20220426_112301_1240.jpg
Compress_20220426_112302_2023.jpg

Oil Seperator. Another culprit behind the 'Oil Consumption' Issue.
Compress_20220426_112303_3457.jpg

Removing Vaccum Pump and High Pressure Pump
Compress_20220426_112304_4112.jpg
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Thermostat Assembly
Compress_20220426_112306_6450.jpg
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Catalytic Converter & Turbocharger Assembly
Compress_20220426_112309_9282.jpg
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Compress_20220426_112312_2123.jpg
Compress_20220426_112313_3955.jpg

It's almost 12 o'clock and I am really exhausted, so I decided to stop for now

To be continued...
 
Thread Starter #11
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Its very surprising to see that the radiator has 2 fans and both are totally different.
They are of different sizes different shapes and different blade numbers,5 and 7 too !! Is it OEM ??

This is how it is in my Nexon.
View attachment 295831 View attachment 295832





And this is from your car
Please match the part nos. Looks weird, unless of course if its engineered intentionally.

View attachment 295833
Yes as @deville_56 mentioned, it is completely stock. I think that it was designed to fit properly in that tight space.
IMG_20220426_114624.jpg

Part No: 17120M55KDO
IMG_20220426_114650.jpg

Part No: 17120M55KK0
IMG_20220426_114639.jpg
 

mayankdixit

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Its very surprising to see that the radiator has 2 fans and both are totally different.
They are of different sizes different shapes and different blade numbers,5 and 7 too !! Is it OEM ??

This is how it is in my Nexon.






And this is from your car
Please match the part nos. Looks weird, unless of course if its engineered intentionally.

View attachment 295833
Yes as @deville_56 mentioned, it is completely stock. I think that it was designed to fit properly in that tight space.
I agree, this is OEM setup, engineered to fit in the space provided.


This work of yours has gone beyond DIY level. It looks like garage- level work going on with engine dismantling and all. What is surprising is you are not taking help from a professional !!
Great job. Great going.[thumbsup]
I am worried how will you put it all back together?

p.s What tools are you using in this work.? Post some pics please.
 
Last edited:
Thread Starter #13
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I agree, this is OEM setup, engineered to fit in the space provided.


This work of yours has gone beyond DIY level. It looks like garage- level work going on with engine dismantling and all. What is surprising is you are not taking help from a professional !!
Great job. Great going.[thumbsup]
Thanks Brother [:D].
I am worried how will you put it all back together?
Don't worry, I've labelled and separated each nut and bolt during the stripping stage to avoid problems in the future.[;)]

p.s What tools are you using in this work.? Post some pics please.
My toolbox is not neatly organized.Sorry for the mess..:stupid:
Compress_20220427_205133_3518.jpg

Compress_20220427_205131_1015.jpg
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For your clarification, here is the list of tools used in this work:
  • Double End Spanners
  • Ring Spanners
  • 1/2 inch Socket Set [L,T Handle with extensions & Ratchet] (I will explain about the types of sockets needed for this engine in the upcoming posts)
  • 1/4 inch Socket set
  • Vice Grip Pliers
  • Allen Key Set
  • Combination Pliers
  • Nose Plier
  • Circlip Plier
  • Cutting Pliers
  • Impact Driver Set
  • Amazon Basics Torque Wrench Review
  • Amazon Basics Jack Stand
  • Bosch Angle Grinder
  • Philips Head Screw Drivers (S, M, L)
  • Flat Head Screw Driver (S,M, L)
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Metal Hammer
  • Pipe Wrench
  • Floor Jack
  • Multijet Engine Timing Lock Tool Link
  • Diesel Filter Special Tool Link
  • T Sapnners (8,10,12mm)
 
Thread Starter #14
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Stripping Stripping Stripping....
(Sorry for not being able to snap some pictures due to greasy hands..)
Engine Bay after removing engine
Compress_20220426_112316_6696.jpg

Removing the Starter

Compress_20220426_112317_7653.jpg

One bolt is located inside this hole, to access that bolt we need to remove that rubber cover.
IMG_20220428_095407.jpg

Compress_20220426_112320_0260.jpg

Compress_20220426_112323_3022.jpg
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Removing Intermediate Shaft and Engine Mount (Middle)
Compress_20220426_112326_6392.jpg
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Note that oil leak marked in this picture. Its from the dipstick's rubber seal.
IMG_20220428_104258.jpg

Removing Intake Manifold
Compress_20220426_112329_9285.jpg

Compress_20220426_112329_9952.jpg

Carbon Buildup inside Manidold
Compress_20220426_112331_1089.jpg

Removing Crank Pulley
To remove crank pulley you need to lock the timing first (Cam and Crank). Then rotate the crank pulley bolt clockwise using the special socket bit E18. (External Torx)
(Yes, the bolt is reverse threaded!)
Compress_20220426_112341_1556.jpg

E18- External Torx Socket
Compress_20220428_110820_0679.jpg

Compress_20220428_110822_2488.jpg

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Gearbox Removed
Compress_20220426_112338_8514.jpg
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Removing Oil Pan
Compress_20220426_112343_3710.jpg

Look at that ugly cheap red silicone sealant. I really hate that thing. Completly kills the clean look of the engine..[anger]
IMG_20220428_111855.jpg

Compress_20220426_112346_6019.jpg

Timing Cover Removed.
Everything inside looks brand new!! Result of regular oil changes..
Compress_20220426_112347_7196.jpg

Removing Valve Cover
Compress_20220426_112350_0640.jpg

Compress_20220426_112351_1614.jpg

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Found a shocking thing inside valve cover. A broken Rocker Arm!! [shock]
Compress_20220426_112354_4099.jpg

I didn't feel any loss of power or anything like that while driving.
On detailed inspection, found that HLA(Hydraulic Lash Adjuster)had lost its tension and was now working freely.
Compress_20220426_112355_5693.jpg
Compress_20220426_112406_6673.jpg

After Removing Cylinder Head
Compress_20220426_112508_8300.jpg

For removing cylinder head, you need a special socket bit called Ribe Socket Bit and the the size is M12.
Compress_20220428_110824_4249.jpg
Compress_20220428_110826_6160.jpg

Condition of Cylinder Block and Piston
While testing, found that all 4 piston have good amount of free play. (Indication of worn out piston rings or sleeve)
You will hear a knocking sound if the piston has free play like this.(Yes, this engine has that knocking sound, and I already noticed that when I saw this car for the first time.)
Compress_20220426_112358_8683.jpg
Compress_20220426_112403_3370.jpg

Condition of Valves
Compress_20220426_112505_5705.jpg

Compress_20220426_112507_7109.jpg
Compress_20220426_112400_0848.jpg
Compress_20220426_112401_1983.jpg

Clutch Removed
Compress_20220426_112407_7677.jpg

One of the clutch cover bolts' heads was stripped while unscrewing. So I used an angle grinder to cut it out.
(Don't worry, we don't need these anymore..)
Compress_20220426_112409_9656.jpg

Compress_20220426_112412_2349.jpg

Removing Water Bypass Pipe
Compress_20220426_112413_3706.jpg
Compress_20220426_112415_5079.jpg
Compress_20220426_112416_6444.jpg

Seperating Crankcase
Compress_20220426_112418_8180.jpg

You don't need to bang hard with a hammer or do anything crazy to separate the crankcase.
Just remove all the bolts and then do a little bit of prying in the marked area with a screwdriver. That's all you need..
IMG_20220428_122331.jpg

Crankcase Seperated
Compress_20220426_112421_1921.jpg

The Mess!![roll]
Compress_20220426_112423_3285.jpg


Next Step: Cleaning

To be continued...
 

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mayankdixit

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kanpur
What are the symptoms of broken rocker arms??
Why would it break by itself in the first place??


It would have remained hidden if not for this diy.
 

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