Maruti Suzuki Wagon-R: Technical Queries & Solutions


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Changed the air filter first time, it had become brittle and choked @19.5k odo reading, and got the cabin filter cleaned, lot of dried leaves came out of the cavity next to the blower.
Even I am facing reduced AC efficiency problem, my car is 1.1l 2009 vxi model. Any idea if this version is equipped with cabin filter?

I have checked gas levels etc, but no difference in cooling.
 
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Even I am facing reduced AC efficiency problem, my car is 1.1l 2009 vxi model. Any idea if this version is equipped with cabin filter?

I have checked gas levels etc, but no difference in cooling.
Get the in-cabin portion opened, the blower air filter are located here, get the areas throughly blow air cleaned, you will be surprised to see how much dust and debris like dried leaves are collected here, and install a filter, this will improve the air flow marginally, although not as good as Tata car's.
 

allhyundaicars

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Even I am facing reduced AC efficiency problem, my car is 1.1l 2009 vxi model. Any idea if this version is equipped with cabin filter?

I have checked gas levels etc, but no difference in cooling.
If the cabin air filter is not clogged then definitely the cooling coil is. Uploading pic for referenece of my santro after 4 years of use.
 

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Guys, Anyone face any issue with Wagon R AMT model. I have few queries.
I am planning to buy one.
How is the performance of AMT in Wagon R ?
How is the mileage in city limits ?
Any gear box issues or AMT issues ?

Read lot of AMT issues in Alto & Celerio. These issue are still with Wagon R ?


Hi Satyaeet,
I am planning to get a Wagon R AMT. It seems you already covered couple of thousand KM. How is the performance of AMT in wagon R?
Any over heating issues or any AMT module issues ?
Yes i have covered around 10K+ Km's in my Wagon R AGS and it drives butter smooth.
Irrespective of city of highway drive the car performance is flawless. It struggles a bit in the ghat section so we need to switch to Manual mode which is also easy to do.

Coming to car milage it give me around 17-18 in city and around 20-21 on highway with 80% A/C on.

In B2B traffic the AMT get bit confused and always tries to up shift. A "Tick" sound can be heard whenever there is a gear shift. On highway or during overtaking the car power is adequate but we cannot compared with Swift performance.

Let me know if you are looking for any more specific details.
Thanks,
Satyajeet
 
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Fully synth has additives , agreed. But i would like to know how much the difference is in real life. If you can find any link please share.

The only point in using a fully synth for me will be to avoid frequent oil changes. Obviously if i do 15k -20k a year.

My friend bought a wagonR cng when i bought my verna back in 2012.
My first three services costed me a total of 2400 rs.
And his car's service costed him 5k each. When i asked the reason he said maruti recommends fully synth for cng so i assumed maruti was recommending the same for ags also.

My santro's at 167k kms (i checked today) (127k kms on cng and 95% driven in city) covered in 6 years using just mineral oil but changing the oil every 5k. How much more life the fully synth would have given me ?

I paid around 650rs for every 5k
Mineral oil expense - 22k.

Fully synth at every 12k at 3500rs per oil change.
Oil expense - around 48k.
I would rather spend the difference amount of 26k in engine overhaul and extend the life of the engine by another 100k kms than to spend the same amount on fully synth which may or may not make my engine last for i don't know how much longer.

It's just my personal experience and for me one should switch to synthetic only to avoid frequent oil changes. Else regular timely mineral oil change is more than sufficient.
I don't want to skew your sources, so I'd welcome you to look it up or test it independently. That said, I've always had more positive observations with Synthetics (or Blends), particularly when trying to combat sludge on cams or residue on pistons - particularly in harsh conditions.

Also, I'm not certain how comparable the mineral and synthetic oils you're fielding are. For my Estilo, a synthetic oil change costs ~1.8x as much as a mineral one (I do it myself), but lasts twice as long between changeovers - which is a payoff in itself. That aside, I've observed increases in fuel economy (~1-2 kpl) during regular use and feel better engine response.

For me, it's a no-brainer if I can spend the same amount, but do oil changes less often, and take better care of my engine.

In short, it's very easy to keep a car running, but not to keep it running well...
 
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Yes i have covered around 10K+ Km's in my Wagon R AGS and it drives butter smooth.
Irrespective of city of highway drive the car performance is flawless. It struggles a bit in the ghat section so we need to switch to Manual mode which is also easy to do.

Coming to car milage it give me around 17-18 in city and around 20-21 on highway with 80% A/C on.

In B2B traffic the AMT get bit confused and always tries to up shift. A "Tick" sound can be heard whenever there is a gear shift. On highway or during overtaking the car power is adequate but we cannot compared with Swift performance.

Let me know if you are looking for any more specific details.
Thanks,
Satyajeet
Thanks Satyajeet for all the information. Now i have shortlisted the Wagon R VXi + (O) and Tiago XZA. Both are almost same price. Already test drove the Wagon R. tiago may be next weekend.
I am actually waiting for the Dec month offer.
It generally good in comparison to other months. :)

Where you got you car ..i mean from which dealership ?
And if it is ok..then could you please share the on road price and discount you got.
 
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Where you got you car ..i mean from which dealership ?
And if it is ok..then could you please share the on road price and discount you got.
It got it from Kothari wheels , Nagar Road Pune.

On road prices was 5.85L VXi AGS [Grey Colour], White color is 5K less then metallic ones.
i have exchanged my 2012 Nano LX with them - 90000 [with exchange bounus]
Consumer discount - 30000
Corporate - 5000

Total it costed me :- 460000

That time cost for Vxi+(o) was 6.21L

They gave me below items free:
Mud flaps, steering cover and Ganesh Idol

Accessories which is got from showroom:
1) Seat Covers
2) 3M Package for Coating/under body/Rusting
3) Reverse Sensor
4) Upgraded head lamp, with Philips HID
5) Floor mat

Thanks,
Satyajeet
 
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Dear All,
I own a Wagon-R 2010 model and clocked 38200 KMs. I have started facing a problem recently.

While driving with A/C on and when i press the clutch for shifting gears, the RPM drops so fast and the engine stops. Once this problem starts, even after turning off the A/C, this keeps occuring.

When i leave the car switched off over night and start driving it again the next day, without A/C, it keeps running without issues. Mostly, the problem occurs after i have driven atleast 50 kms with A/C on and is seen in slow moving traffic, where i have to press clutch more frequently.

Also, there is vibration observed in the car in idle.

I got suggestions from some friends that the Knock sensors need to be checked, that it is not able to maintain the minimum RPM levels and hence knocking of the engine.

Can anyone please suggest what should be checked for this issue? MASS representative on first look says there could be a problem with A/C compressor clutch. But since the problem occurs even after switching off the A/C as well, i am not sure if really A/C compressor could be the problem.

Looking for your valuable suggestions.

Thank you,
Hari S
 
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Dear All,
I own a Wagon-R 2010 model and clocked 38200 KMs. I have started facing a problem recently.

While driving with A/C on and when i press the clutch for shifting gears, the RPM drops so fast and the engine stops. Once this problem starts, even after turning off the A/C, this keeps occuring.

When i leave the car switched off over night and start driving it again the next day, without A/C, it keeps running without issues. Mostly, the problem occurs after i have driven atleast 50 kms with A/C on and is seen in slow moving traffic, where i have to press clutch more frequently.

Also, there is vibration observed in the car in idle.

I got suggestions from some friends that the Knock sensors need to be checked, that it is not able to maintain the minimum RPM levels and hence knocking of the engine.

Can anyone please suggest what should be checked for this issue? MASS representative on first look says there could be a problem with A/C compressor clutch. But since the problem occurs even after switching off the A/C as well, i am not sure if really A/C compressor could be the problem.

Looking for your valuable suggestions.

Thank you,
Hari S
It is possible for the issue to be a knock sensor - but it's a complex repair, so you may want to check a simpler suspect first. Have you examined the throttle cable for slack? If it has some, try tightening it (to a reasonable degree), and see if that addresses the issue. If not, you may need to look back at the knock sensors.

For similar reasoning to yours, I also doubt it's due to the AC system.
 
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Dear All,
I own a Wagon-R 2010 model and clocked 38200 KMs. I have started facing a problem recently.

While driving with A/C on and when i press the clutch for shifting gears, the RPM drops so fast and the engine stops. Once this problem starts, even after turning off the A/C, this keeps occuring.

When i leave the car switched off over night and start driving it again the next day, without A/C, it keeps running without issues. Mostly, the problem occurs after i have driven atleast 50 kms with A/C on and is seen in slow moving traffic, where i have to press clutch more frequently.

Also, there is vibration observed in the car in idle.

I got suggestions from some friends that the Knock sensors need to be checked, that it is not able to maintain the minimum RPM levels and hence knocking of the engine.

Can anyone please suggest what should be checked for this issue? MASS representative on first look says there could be a problem with A/C compressor clutch. But since the problem occurs even after switching off the A/C as well, i am not sure if really A/C compressor could be the problem.

Looking for your valuable suggestions.

Thank you,
Hari S
Get the throttle body opened cleaned and checked, for the A/c it could be a case of clogged intercooler, get it throughly cleaned.

I doubt it will be sensors, if so you would have starting issues.

When is the last time you got both these serviced?
 
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Wagon r hitting problem

I've a wagon r LXI 2006 model with 1.1L 16Valve mpfi engine. Since last few days I have been facing hitting problem with my car. After half or one KM of driving the hot and cool indicator of my car shows 50%. And after doing the engine off, sometimes it doesn't restart. To restart, I have to wait 10 to 15 minutes. What is the problem?
 
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Re: Wagon r hitting problem

I've a wagon r LXI 2006 model with 1.1L 16Valve mpfi engine. Since last few days I have been facing hitting problem with my car. After half or one KM of driving the hot and cool indicator of my car shows 50%. And after doing the engine off, sometimes it doesn't restart. To restart, I have to wait 10 to 15 minutes. What is the problem?
Overheating can be caused by a few things, but I would check the following first:

- Does the vehicle have sufficient coolant in the radiator and expansion tank? (DO THIS WHEN ENGINE IS COLD)
- Is the coolant in good condition (ie. bright translucent green)?

If the coolant is low, try topping it up and testing. If it's not in good condition, you may need to flush it with new coolant or suspect your head gasket. Another possibility is a clogged radiator core.

I would suggest having the radiator core cleaned - the cooling system will also be flushed in the process, which should address most issues.
 
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Hello everyone

This my very first post on TAI.
I am looking forward for your valuable feedback on the problem which got arised recently.

I own a wagon r lxi 2014 which comes with a stock tyre size of 145/80/13r. I always wanted to upsize as found the vxi version more appealing somehow. So after 40k on the odo, I decided to proceed with it.

What I did is 2months back I purchased oem 14 inch steel rims. Fitted them with apollo Amazer 4g life 165/65/14r.

Now the problem is my FE decreased drastically. Earlier I was easily getting 500/550 kms run out of a full tank but now it has reduced to 300kms.

I doubt on the tyre. I think it's very heavy as compared to normal tyres. Just my perseption.

Please help buddies as cannot live with such a low mileage figures.

Thanks in advance
 
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Is it steel rims or alloys?

Anyways i had calculated your upsizing ,and it showed difference in circumference 1.41% onl,which is acceptable (<2% is OK).Also the speedometer error will be 0.99kmph.(If speedometer shows 70kmph,you will be in 70.99kmph)

The air pressure for new profile needs to be checked,that can be a reason.
Also as its 40k on odo ,need to know service history of the vehicle.
 
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Is it steel rims or alloys?

Anyways i had calculated your upsizing ,and it showed difference in circumference 1.41% onl,which is acceptable (<2% is OK).Also the speedometer error will be 0.99kmph.(If speedometer shows 70kmph,you will be in 70.99kmph)

The air pressure for new profile needs to be checked,that can be a reason.
Also as its 40k on odo ,need to know service history of the vehicle.
Hi,

These are steel rims. The car has 42k on the odo and the service was done @ 40800k.

Thanks
 

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