Maruti Suzuki Brezza VDi AMT: Ownership Review


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allhyundaicars

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Brezza is munching miles without any problems at all. I can see how every other indian wants to own a MS car for its fuss free experience. There are no rattles at all.
Running will cross 25k kms since April 2022.

I am driving on highway roads for my work at a constant speed of 70kmph plus 25% city drive and mileage is around 17kmpl which isn't that great. My figo on the same road gives me 22kmpl+.
IMG_20230409_161526~2.jpg
 
Thread Starter #137

allhyundaicars

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Had a little incident
Someone hit my parked car and i made a mistake to give the car for insurance claim.
IMG_20230502_183527.jpg


They took 8 days and I was thinking I could have got this done in 2000rs from outside. (Fender repair, bumper had just a little crack and headlight plastic holder could have been repaired with glue.)
Odo reading at 79100 kms.
IMG_20230502_165735~2.jpg
 
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In my Brezza, the AMT unit rides clutch in second gear. Have you noticed something similar?
Yes this is an issue that I have noticed in the two cars we have had with AMT gearbox at home. First one was in the 2015 Alto K10 AMT and now in the 2023 WagonR 1.2L AMT.

Unless the speed reaches sub 10 kmph mark, the AMT gearbox doesn't downshift to 1st gear instead it slips the clutch in 2nd gear till the speeds have increased. I hate this behaviour and that's the reason I switch to 'M' mode everytime I drive the WagonR.
 
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Yes. It's the same in my brezza and the car even vibrates a lot. How much kms has your car covered?
The car has covered around 60000 kms. Was running fine but had clutch assembly changed after moving to Bangalore as someone from packer and mover fried pressure plate, probably while loading/unloading from career. Facing this issue more after MASS re-initialized the AMT unit with clutch assembly change.
Another issue that has cropped up after clutch change is weak creep function, especially in reverse gear. I feel Brezza hand brakes are not strong enough to hold it on steep inclines.
 
Thread Starter #143

allhyundaicars

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How much did the clutch plate change cost you?
You can get the rear brake pads cleaned and ask the mechanic to tighten the handbrake, it will be fine then.
 
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Facing this issue more after MASS re-initialized the AMT unit with clutch assembly change.

Another issue that has cropped up after clutch change is weak creep function, especially in reverse gear.
If the clutch set including the flywheel plus release bearing was changed, I think, something was missed during the re-learning step after the clutch change to the AMT unit.

If all the parts are new inside and all is well, I can't see a reason for the creep function to be weak and also the judder/vibration is due to not possible when all parts are new.

Also I can't see why no transmission oil was billed?! Was it not changed?
 
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If the clutch set including the flywheel plus release bearing was changed, I think, something was missed during the re-learning step after the clutch change to the AMT unit.
It is quite possible they missed something. They have way too many cars to service, and I don't think they spend enough time in thoroughly inspecting/rectifying issues. The car was at service center for 5 days for clutch replacement citing parts unavailability. Looks like I need to get the AMT re-learning procedure done again.

If all the parts are new inside and all is well, I can't see a reason for the creep function to be weak and also the judder/vibration is due to not possible when all parts are new.
There is no judder or vibration. The car runs smooth except for weak creep function clutch riding in second gear. Basically, before clutch change, the car was eager and there was zero roll-back on small to moderate inclines. But now the car rolls back a few inches before moving forward on a typical bridge traffic scenario. Problem is worse in reverse gear. Sometimes the car does not to move in reverse for a good 3 to 4 seconds after releasing the brake pedal and accelerator needs to be pressed.

Also I can't see why no transmission oil was billed?! Was it not changed?
You are right. The transmission oil was not changed. I asked SA to change both transmission oil and AMT actuator fluid. But he was confidant, rather adamant that there is no need to change these.
 
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It is quite possible they missed something. They have way too many cars to service, and I don't think they spend enough time in thoroughly inspecting/rectifying issues. The car was at service center for 5 days for clutch replacement citing parts unavailability. Looks like I need to get the AMT re-learning procedure done again.
Please get it done ASAP, if possible at a MASS that has some time to spare and where that re-learning can be done in your presence. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes for the re-learning step.

There is no judder or vibration. The car runs smooth except for weak creep function clutch riding in second gear. Basically, before clutch change, the car was eager and there was zero roll-back on small to moderate inclines. But now the car rolls back a few inches before moving forward on a typical bridge traffic scenario. Problem is worse in reverse gear. Sometimes the car does not to move in reverse for a good 3 to 4 seconds after releasing the brake pedal and accelerator needs to be pressed.
All these to me point out that something is a miss as all issues have increased post the clutch change.

You are right. The transmission oil was not changed. I asked SA to change both transmission oil and AMT actuator fluid. But he was confidant, rather adamant that there is no need to change these.
Crazy I must say. I insist to replace the transmission oil irrespective of what the SA says.

I have stopped visiting the ASC totally for all these reasons and got it done at my known FNG in my presence. I'll suggest you change the transmission oil at least since it is a critical part of the transmission.
 
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Thread Starter #149

allhyundaicars

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Got the car serviced at 82500 kms.
Will be probably the last service at this M.A.S.S.
No point spending this much now. Warranty will get over in November. Electrical charge is the intercooler getting cleaned. There was all type of muck present near the intercooler hose and the car feels peppy after this.

Advisor told me that the full bumper needs to be opened to clean the intercooler but they just lifted the car up, unscrewed some nuts and the job was done. Definitely not a 1500rs work. He did gave me a 40% discount on labor though.
IMG_20230824_184349~2.jpg
 
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Electrical charge is the intercooler getting cleaned. There was all type of muck present near the intercooler hose and the car feels peppy after this.

Advisor told me that the full bumper needs to be opened to clean the intercooler but they just lifted the car up, unscrewed some nuts and the job was done. Definitely not a 1500rs work. He did gave me a 40% discount on labor though.
I remembered the DIY I had done on my earlier car i.e., Swift ZDi (2013 model) where I had performed the intercooler cleaning at home. The car had clocked 72,000kms after which I had attempted this DIY.

The front bumper removed to access the intercooler
1. Bumper removed.jpg

The Intercooler
2. This is the one that needs the cleaning.jpg

The marked bolt along with the rubber mount to be removed to free the intercooler from its position
3. Retaining bracket Top Mount.jpg

After removing the top rubber mount, pull the intercooler up to free from the bottom mount
4. Intercooler base mount bracket.jpg

Intercooler removed - Front view
5. Intercooler  Front view.jpg

Intercooler removed - Rear view
6. Intercooler  Rear view.jpg

Piping to be removed for cleaning
7. Open the clamps as marked in yellow.jpg

Piping removed from the intercooler
8. Pipes removed for better cleaning.jpg

Oil present at the base of the intercooler
9. Oil in the intercooler.jpg

Oil collected from the intercooler
10. Oil collected in 1L bottle.jpg

After cleaning the intercooler post multiple washes with soap
11. Inside fins  After cleaning.jpg

Sorry to hijack the thread. [:D]
 
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