Hyundai Fluidic Verna 1.6 VTVT | 6 Years | 54,000 Kms: Ownership Review


bhvm

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Battery is more or less a luck game.
My XUV stock battery lasted well. Way past expectations. Approx 5 years.
i10 Amaron battery lasted surprisingly welll. 5 plus years. And the car would sit without use for months at a time.
However Safari's Battery died just after warranty. barely 2 years.
 
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allhyundaicars

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Changed the car's battery with my brezza's 3.5 years old battery. New amaron 45ah costed 4000rs. Wanted to try amaron this time since Exide too conks off after 30 months.
I wanted to park the car in the basement parking before heading out of Delhi but because the battery was bad i couldn't and now when I drove today the brake pads got stuck to the discs[frustration]
Will have to take the car to the mechanic for cleaning.
 
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My i20 Amaron battery was almost at 4 years, was noticing slow and longer cranks during cold starts, took it to battery guy and he tested it showed unstable battery but he said you can use. However there was couple months pro rata warranty left, he told me pricing if I used the prorata or just normal swap. Normal swap was cheaper as it’s their dealer pricing and not mrp.

with regards to the ac issues. When compressor oil turns black it means it burn the refrigerant and it’s acidic now.
in domestic and commercial air conditioning and refrigeration when this occurs, domestic it’s cheaper to change the ac and commercial change the compressor and add filters for suction and liquid line to prevent acid in system from destroying the new compressor after flushing the lines.
Now in automotive the compressor too pushes metal shavings around.
i had this happen in my Aveo, only changed the condenser and compressor, new compressor barely lasted a couple of months.
If you plan to sell it do the cheaper repair and notify next owner, else do a proper job of changing the expansion valve and condenser since the filter is in the condenser. And flush out the lines and evaporator using a good refrigerant line flush rated for r134a
And then make sure there is no moisture in lines by vacuuming the entire system after installation for atleast 30 minutes and only add the refrigerant by weight

local ac shops don’t follow this and never charge by weight nor add the required oil by weight and this damages the compressors.

Also with regards to an earlier post of the radiator,
You need to change the coolant at specified intervals listed on the coolant. And it’s optional to use a radiator flush.
For the airflow using a water hose from the front grills would be fine to wash of the dirt mostly
 
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allhyundaicars

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I got the car serviced. Scorpio is still months away.
the mechanic told me not to buy Castrol stating it's a duplicate so I got Caltex.
Engine oil - 1590
oil filter - 90
air filter - 280
labor - 200.
 
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allhyundaicars

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Had an incident today.
Fortuner ahead of me applied emergency brakes but I couldn't.

Both of us parked the cars and I told them it was my fault and apologised. Fortuner didn't have any type of visible damage. I think the spare tyre took the whole impact.

There was a hissing sound coming from my car and smoke started coming. Called the mechanic and gladly radiator was not leaking. Ac condenser got pierced because of the front support that Hyundai provided in my car or else radiator and other parts would have been damaged.
But alas, new verna doesn't come with this support. So much cost cutting.
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Labor for denting and alignment - 2200
Condenser repair and ac gas - 1200
New headlight - 3400[frustration]
 
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So, current odo stands at 152k. Since this post, I brought a new set of Conti UC6 205/55/16 tyres. Cost was between 8.5-9k for 1 tyre. Very much satisfied with these.
Recently decided to get the clutch overhauled again since the clutch pedal had become hard and is a pain in traffic. Also, I was getting a weird judder when moving from standstill in 1st gear, with the car vibrating which can also be felt by passenger. Judder disappears once the clutch is completely engaged and there are zero problems in higher gears/ speeds, etc. Replaced clutch plate, pressure plate, master cylinder and slave cylinder at hyundai service (bill for clutch OH was around 23k). After this, the gears slot smoothly but the judder is still present. Took it to hyundai twice but they can't pinpoint at anything for sure. Aside from the pathetic "it's a old car saar", they suspect it's the engine mounts but since they are not sure, they are reluctant to order them in case it does not solve the problem. What do you guys suggest? Should I buy at my expense (6k for all 3 mounts) and risk not solving the issue? Is there a possibility that it's the flywheel? Please advice.
 

mayankdixit

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Replaced clutch plate, pressure plate, master cylinder and slave cylinder at hyundai service (bill for clutch OH was around 23k). After this, the gears slot smoothly but the judder is still present. Is there a possibility that it's the flywheel?
Did you not replace the flywheel when clutch work was done ?
Whenever clutch is changed the flywheel must be changed. Repeated usage in traffic conditions produces heat .That heat is responsible for deforming the flywheel surface. This will result in reduced friction and judder. Ultimately this affects the clutch and it will not perform as expected/new like. Judder may also be a side effect.
 
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Did you not replace the flywheel when clutch work was done ?
Whenever clutch is changed the flywheel must be changed. Repeated usage in traffic conditions produces heat .That heat is responsible for deforming the flywheel surface. This will result in reduced friction and judder. Ultimately this affects the clutch and it will not perform as expected/new like. Judder may also be a side effect.
No, flywheel was not replaced. The mechanic said the flywheel looked fine and the service manager also said that flywheel is typically not replaced unless it's damaged by a completely worn clutch. I read online that I can get it resurfaced at a machine shop. Maybe I will try that because I don't want to spend 13k on a new flywheel if it does not fix the judder.
 
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Yes, aside from paying labour for opening the transmission again to remove the flywheel, I don't want to do it because I simply don't trust the mechanic's to do everything properly and torquing everything back to spec.
Vibrations at standstill have increased a bit maybe. Not enough to be sure about bad mounts. Recently during the second visit to hyundai service, they removed the top and bottom mount completely and reinstalled everything. After this, it looks like the vibrations have reduced. The SA said he will contact me when they have another verna to cross check so will wait for now but considering the car's age (mounts have not been replaced before), I think I will end up changing mounts either way.
 
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allhyundaicars

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With a heavy heart i cancelled my scorpio n booking and postponed it till 6 months. Mahindra dealerships made sure that I won't be able to buy a car from them. Will make a seperat thread of my month long ordeal.

Postponed my plans to sell my verna also so got new tyres installed. Yokohama earth 1 were 5600 and since I have to sell the car in the near future I bought apollo (don't even know the model) for 4600rs per tyre.
Cng is giving me 15kmpl in city roads and 20+ without ac on open roads. All in all can't complain.
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