Day 6: Gwalior
This day we have kept for relaxing and exploring Gwalior city. In morning we headed towards the “Gibraltar of East” which means “Gwalior Fort”. For breakfast we reached “Panwadi Poha Centre” who are famous for their Poha. Each plate cost Rs.25 but it was amazing in taste.
We resumed towards fort and on the way took small detour to see the Moti Mahal which has now government offices. There is small water body at front of this building. The surrounding area is used by locals for exercise and morning walks.
We resumed our drive back to fort through Urvai Gate through which one can reach near to main entry of fort. As we were the early visitors hence there was no one on the road towards fort. Just before ascent we saw beautiful rock carvings on our left. We parked our car and went ahead to get closer look. There are steps from parking space and flagstone walkway beside the statues. The location is known as Siddhachal Jain Temples.
The carvings are older than fort. The statues in rocks are of Jain Tirthankaras.
Closer look
Sitting postures of Tirthankara
Standing postures of Tirthankara
We resumed back towards fort. There is ample amount of parking space whose fees are based on total parking time, the least for 3 hours is Rs.30. When we parked there were just 2 cars and no one in that area. We entered the gate from where the fort is at walking distance of 200 meters.
Step well named “Assi Khamb ki Bawadi” near gate. It needs some serious maintenance
A structure beside step well which looked like some temple but could not find any details
Entrance into complex.
After this we walked a bit ahead to reach fort ticket counter (which is not easily spot able). The entry was Rs.25 per person who is more than 15 years of age. They provide combined ticket for entering Fort, Saasbahu Temple and Teli Temple.
Information about Gwalior fort
Outer view of fort
Gwalior fort is divided into two parts viz Man Singh Palace also known as Man Mandir and Gujari Mahal which is now ASI Museum. The walkway seen in this pic goes towards Gujari Mahal.
We entered the courtyard of Mansingh Palace. This area was used for music and dance. It is said that pillars and walls were having glass. The round holes above pillars were used to place a burning torch so the light used to get emitted through glass making the whole area lit
Kings’ seat from where dance and music show going in courtyard can be seen
The area where royal ladies used to sit and watch the programs going in courtyard. The Jharokas are specially made so that no one can see queens directly. The Jharoka which is having colored arched is the one where “Maharani” used to sit while the club shaped designed Jharoka is where the “Patrani” used to sit
The Guest seat is located at highest level in courtyard. The king used to treat their guest like God hence have created the seat much higher than his own.
We have entered second courtyard. The color of palace appears blue as the tiles which were used here were having turquoise and blue color.
Entrance to room inside courtyard
Carvings on wall made to fit glasses.
The closer view of hole on top of pillar used for keeping burning torch
Windows to keep an eye on audience and performing artist
Kings place in second courtyard
These small holes were created for air ventilation so that the courtyards remain cool.
Entries to rooms behind for royal ladies
Gallery where musician used to sit
This animal is mix of many animals like bull, cow, tiger, lion and elephant
Mansingh Palace has these two courtyards and two levels of basement floors. The steps are narrow and heighted to go down. The architecture is made such that air can flow till basement.
It is said that prior to attacks of Mughals the basement was used by Royal Ladies where there was swimming pool known as Kesar Kund. Later when Mughals took over this fort then this basement was used as circular jail where many were sentenced to death cruelly
The roof of level 2 basement. It is said that Mughals used to kill their enemies here so that their shouts cannot be reached outside
The hooks in ceiling were used by royal ladies for tying the silky rope for the swing. Later the same hooks were used by Mughals to tie their soldiers. As of now there are lot of bats in basement
Next to main fort complex lies eight different mahals where you need separate ticket to enter. The ticket rate is Rs.10 per head and they take some Rs.50 (forgot exact amount) per mobile camera. After entering inside one can see the huge structure in front which is Karan Mahal. It was built by Tomar king Kirti Singh
After climbing few steep steps, we reached on top. There is a small structure at top
View of Gwalior city
Jauhar Kund as seen from another window
Beside Karan Mahal stands Jehangir Mahal which has this door as entrance
Walkways inside Jehangir Mahal
Finest example of Mughal style architect
Huge courtyard inside the mahal
Arched pillars
Architecture at top level of Jehangir Mahal
Gujari Mahal as seen from top
Vikram Mahal is one more palace in this complex which is built by son of Mansingh. The Jehangir Mahal and Vikram Mahal shares same complex though the entries are different.
This is Jauhar Kund. The royal ladies have made suicide in this kund when Mughal sultanate taken over this fort. I remembered the Jauhar Kund on Chittorgarh where royal ladies have jumped in fire, here they jumped in water.
Seems this structure was built lately by British who took over this fort at later period. There was no information related to it.
We returned to main gate from here. On the way clicked this pic showing Karan Mahal and Gwalior fort
We came out of fort complex. Near the gate there are 2-3 stalls selling patties, tea, wafer, and cold drinks. It was lot of walking and climbing we have done to explore the fort hence we stopped here and took Kulhad tea to refresh ourselves.
I observed that there are no signboards anywhere to reach other attractions of fort. I used Gmaps to traverse on fort towards Saasbahu Temple. The original name of this temple is “Sahasrabahu” which is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Tickets of fort needs to be shown here at the entrance. There is another temple in same complex which is bit smaller as compared to this one.
The locals called the big temple as “Saas” (mother-in-law)
The other temple is known as “Bahu” (daughter in law)
Information related to temple near gate
We first entered Saas temple. It was having some amazing cravings on pillars and roof
Heavy roof is of rock and has been supported by four pillars
Closeup of carvings on pillar
There is no deity or idol worshipped in this temple. The inner sanctum is a stay location of bats now!
We then moved into “Bahu” temple. There were less carvings inside as compared to Saas temple.
From here we went straight ahead towards “Teli Ka Mandir”. Fort tickets need to be shown at the entrance. There is good amount of parking space near the temple. The temple is built somewhere around 9th century. The temple is taller for approx. 35 to 40 meters
Carvings on outer walls of temple
A Greek design but some says that those pillars were created to support the upper part of temple.
There are no sculptures or deity inside temple as most of them have been broken down and ruined by Mughals in their ruling time. As of now there is strong dirty smell of bats inside it.
There is a small garden outside temple where these broken sculptures, carved stone and decorative pieces are being kept.
Mandapa where marriages used to take place.
The monuments and temples on fort area seriously need some good maintenance by authorities. There is not a single signage board throughout the area for reaching these temples. I have seen few people walking down the road to reach these temples.
Near to this temple is Gurudwara hence we moved ahead towards it. The gurudwara is well maintained with planned and proper parking space.
It was very calm and peaceful environment inside. We sat here for some time.
Display of arms
The Gurudwara serve very tasty Langar which we had along with Prashad. There is a doordarshan tower near to the complex
It was almost noon when we descended the fort and came back into city. I have pinned Jai Vilas palace as our next destination. Google has rerouted me in between and took me inside market area which was congested with lot of two wheelers. Somehow from somewhere I again came back to MotiMahal.
I stopped my car and asked local about JaiVilas palace. After following the advice, I reached the gate which was closed. There was security inside who said that I need to get at least 270 degrees around to reach the proper entrance gate. By taking some rights and lefts I somehow reached the main entrance of palace. There is not a single signage I came across showing you the way towards palace. There is ample parking space where they take Rs.50 per car.
This palace is private property which is still used by royal family of Scindia. The palace has now been converted into a museum. Sometimes they do close palace for visitors when there is any royal guest or function.
The entry ticket is quite expensive which is Rs.300 per person. One need to deposit the bags and purses into a locker and carry its key along with them. All staff inside compulsory wears masks and you too must strictly wear it inside. There are different halls and sections exhibiting items which were used in day-to-day life of royal family. Few halls are rooms showing how the princely family used to live.
Silver chariot
Breakfast room
Queens bedroom
Kings’ bedroom
Kings procession on elephant
Prayer room
Guest halls
It is said that this is largest carpet of Asia. It was prepared by prisoners. The carpet has photos of kings woven on it. It took around 12 years to complete the masterpiece. There is low light in this area just because the authorities want to preserve it from reflection and heat.
Glass fountain inside one courtyard
Heavy chandeliers
The banquet room is the biggest room where they have made different sitting arrangements. This is the sitting arrangement for Veg food
Sitting arrangement for non-Veg food
This table has track on it where a silver toy train used to move carrying a cargo like Cigars, Liquor for the guests.
The silver toy train having silver engine and seven silver carriages. The train used to stop as soon as the guest picks up the cargo and starts again as soon as it was kept.
A hall beside banquet
Round table for conference
Usage of glass to support railings of steps
One more hall
The famous Darbar Hall. One can see two chandeliers hanging on roof which are having weight of 3.5 ton each. The king has suspended some eight
[RKX(ZTLaC1] elephants to check the strength of ceiling before fixing these chandeliers. There are some 250 bulbs inside one chandelier
Gold is used to decorate ceiling
Indian tigers are showcased
The last section shows fire burners and utensils those were used in royal kitchens in those days
It almost took an hour to see all the halls inside palace.
We reached to our hotel and relaxed for couple of hours. The langar in Gurudwara had made sure that there is no need of any food later. It was great!
In evening we once again visited the old market of Gwalior to taste some street food. We went to Bahadura Sweet which is famous for their motichur ladoo and Gulabjamuns. In my life I have came across this first sweet shop who sells just these two items from past couple of years. Our late prime minister Shri. Atalbihari Vajpaye also used to come here during his visit to Gwalior. The ladoos are so soft that it literally gets dissolved in your mouth.
A little ahead of this is situated the famous shop “S.S.Kachoriwala”. The crowd near the shop itself speaks lot about them. We had some delicious Kachoris, Samosas, Dahi tikki, Aloo tikki and Lambi pani puri here. At last, on the corner, we sought the Falooda which made our dinner complete. We came back to our hotel and ended our day.
Continued in next post....