Exhaustive Guide: Car Detailing Basics


Thread Starter #16

Dr MUDHAN

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LET US DISCUSS SOMETHING MORE ON CAR SHAMPOOS.​

Types of Car shampoos – Natural, Synthetic, Simple or with Cleaner / Mild Abrasives etc.
Some brands have a gloss enhancer built in; others have wax in there too.
Need water or water less type, whether has hard water solvents? (If the water is hard it may cause spots during Drying. Good shampoos have softening agents which helps minimize water spotting.)
The correct way to shampoo a car?
And which are the good one?

A. The correct way to shampoo a car provided your tyres are not dirty or muddy:​

1. Prepare a shampoo solution according to the recommended dilution (note some shampoos work better if added more than the recommended dilution based on the water quality, you can make a trial) & have in your Wash bucket. Better wash bucket may have a plastic grid mesh so that dirts can settle down.
2. Keep another bucket of plain water as Rinse bucket.
3. Rinse the car with hose/pressure washer to remove loose dirt – regulate water velocity according to the area- mild on paint more pressure on tyres , inside fenders & mud flaps (if more muddy, allow it to soak and rinse again.
4. Put your wash mitt in the wash bucket, Dug the wash mitt and grab some solution along with it, don’t squeeze and wipe your car’s body with a light hand.
5. Wipe an area of a panel gently. Flip the mitt and wipe on new area.
6. Rinse the mitt in your rinse bucket.
7. Once done with a panel, softly rinse the panel with the hose.
8. Repeat step 4 through 6 until you are done with all panels.
9. Rinse lower side of the car and tyres, mud flaps last.
9. Do a final rinse all over.
10. Dry softly.

B. If the tyres are dirty or muddy:

You want to wash the wheels first, since these are often the dirtiest portion of the car. If you wait to wash these very last you will end up splashing a lot of mud and debris on the rest of the clean car.

1. Wash the wheels & remove the muds from wheel arch, mud flap.
2. Initial rinse with sprayed water
3. Use two buckets
4. Scrub top down
5. Foam washes using mitt / sponge
6. Final rinse with water
7. Primary dry using weave towel
8. Detail dry using MF towel

MORE TIPS:​

TOWELS: Use a separate towel cloths for the body and for the wheels.
Avoid petrol bunk cotton red towels; if you use, ensure to dip that new cloth in boiling water with detergent to get rid of unwanted starch and lint, to make it softer.

WATER: Try to avoid hard water (from the bore well) as much as possible. It’s the fastest way to make your paint fade and to invite corrosion. Water shouldn’t be hard, it will damage the paint layers and plastic/rubber parts in long run. If you regularly wax your car then no need to regularly wash the car, dry clean will do the job.
Sometimes spots will be left on the car if the car is not dried properly, clean with microfiber towel to remove leftover water droplets. This is very common on glasses; clean first & then later finally again.

ALLOYS should be washed with detergent. Use a soft toothbrush to clean those hard-to-reach areas, to clean the dust coated on the brake pad.

TAR SPOTS & STUBBORN DIRT can be removed by applying AMWAY SG or WD40 (both are must haves), please note, don’t waste your money in buying the so called ‘tar & bug removers’.

THE DISCOLORED GREYISH BORDERS ON THE LOWER PARTS created by the sprayed mucks from the road / are those could not be removed by shampoo?
Diesel / WD40 can remove it, if not, the easiest way with the help of fine rubbing compound.

BIRD DROPPING STAINS:
You should not try to rub or wipe off the droppings. This will scratch the car. Instead let a wet cloth / wet tissue paper to soak on the dropping for a minute, then use another clean wet cloth/ tissue paper to lift the dropping off, then you can wash it off with ONR&S spray & clean with MF cloth.


WATER LESS SHAMPOOS​

Has different steps.
Waterless Car Washes are one-step products meant to clean and protect our car.
In reality it is not a purely waterless wash one. You do need water but less. This wash media has high tech polymers that bond to the paint to protect it.
I used earlier AMWAY( good), and then ABRO GOLD ( good) and now I use ONR&S - OPTIMUM NO RINSE & SHINE (2012 VERSION) which is quite popular among car detailers.
Of course I don’t prefer it in water less mode; I rinse the car with sprayed water, wipe & dry the surface and apply ONR&S, leave few seconds, wipe and dry panel by panel. My mixing ratio is 40 ml /4 liters of water.
The recommended rate of ONR is 1 oz. for 1-2 gallons of water. After the first wash with ONR you should have a fairly good idea about the amount of water and ONR required. (1 oz. of ONR is approximately 3 caps.)
(For water scarce area ONR requires only 60 ml of ONR mixing ratio of 8 liters of waters comparing 200 - 400 liters of water use to flushing the car complete.)
I would not recommend using ONR on a car that has an extremely dirty surface, only the conventional method is best.

No Rinse Wash & Shine can be used as

1. Car Wash (1 ounce to 2 gallons water)
2. Water Conditioner (1 ounce to wash water made with regular car shampoo)
3. Clay Lubricant (2 ounces to a gallon of water)
4. Quick Detailer (6 ounces to a gallon of water)

Whichever shampoo you prefer or like to use, the effect you get will be based on the water quality of your area, I would advise you to keep one bottle of ONR&S shampoo. This is not only good and leave a better shine after washing & before waxing, a must have in your daily spray bottle (10ml/ litre of water) to clean day today dirt, as I indicated in my earlier write up.

Some of the nice car shampoos in the market:

SHAMPOO – Amway car shampoo, Turtle Zip Wax (Wash & Wax), Formula 1 Wash & Wax, ABRO premium gold, Sonax Gloss, Autoglm Body Work Conditioner
SHAMPOO SYNTHETIC - Meguiars NXT WASH, Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo
RINSE LESS, WATERLESS WASH – Optimum No Rinse, Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ Concentrate, Duragloss Rinseless Wash
 

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Thread Starter #17

Dr MUDHAN

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wow hats off to you for the effort that you have put and is going to put in this thread.
Thanks smooth rider for your encouragement.​
Hello Dr sir. I thought you are only a MBBS doctor. But you are doing doctorate in car washing / cleaning. Excellent thread. Seems to be a one stop solution for car care. 5 stars from my side.[clap]
It is nice of you, Octy_Vin. To become a successful Doctor he must have an engineering knowledge, to make a differential diagnosis of diseases; an Engineer should have a doctoral analysis to avoid damage or deterioration. Ha Ha..[lol]

Interesting article, neatly presented. Keep Going Dr MUDHAN.
My concern is about alloy wheels. How to clean alloy wheels on a weekly basis? Only dirt, and paste form of dust. One can reach only outer layer, and cannot reach either within the wheel spokes, and little inner side of the alloy wheels.
Thanks Mathew, we shall discuss soon about alloy wheels.​

Great thread Dr., of course, as usual [;)] The kind of detailed information you gather and share is invincible. I see this not just as your love to your car, but being sure on what you are doing in anything by going to the most extent of the matter. Keep up the great work for the benefit of all! Glad to be around with you here.
Thanks dear Figoian for being with me, as usual.​
Exellent thread Doc :). Its very interesting. keep up the good work.
Excellent thread and information. It just comes at time when I am searching the same for cleaning and polishing my year old POLO. Thanks for providing such a wide information at one place.
.
Thanks, lxtreme & pka11 for your visits to my thread & for all your encouragement.​
Great and really informative initiative Dr MUDHAN sir. Please keep the thread updated. What are your views regarding collinite 845? [If you have used that] compared to duragloss?
Thanks,Midknight. Though collinite 845 is my wish, I haven’t tried Duragloss. Yes,We shall discuss more about them soon.

Great and informative thread.
I want to know more about using car polishers from Bosch/Skil to apply paint sealants like DG-105 and Carnauba waxes on the car without damaging the paint. The things to do and not to do. Different types of pads and their uses. Also would be helpful if we can discuss how to remove those minor scratches and swirl marks from the cars.
Thanks,kinshuk.arya. Sure, we shall discuss more. But, I am afraid whether I would be able to cover every one item or product. I can only share about the product I tried. Still, I shall try to get you the proven experiences… OK?​
 
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Dr MUDHAN, It's a wonderful information for everyone of us to clean and maintain our car interiors and exteriors. Your knowledge about the product and the applications are really great.

Its always a passion for me to keep my car clean a well, giving always a top priority for it. Interestingly, most of these jobs I love to do it myself.

I am glued to this thread to gather more knowledge from you, and of course yes, thank you so much for sharing.
 
Thread Starter #22

Dr MUDHAN

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Dr MUDHAN, It's a wonderful information for every one of us to clean and maintain our car interiors and exteriors. Your knowledge about the product and the applications are really great.
It’s always a passion for me to keep my car clean a well, giving always a top priority for it. Interestingly, most of these jobs I love to do it myself.
I am glued to this thread to gather more knowledge from you, and of course yes, thank you so much for sharing.
Thanks AR Ram– I am strengthened to know that there are people like me.

Nice Information Sir , Thanks For Sharing [:)]
Dear Sparkle Detailing, you are a stalwart in detailing, I have read many of your work in various forum. I am honored. Thanks.​
Great one sirji, a hundred thanks for the jargon buster. waiting for your updates
Thanks hatchback for your appreciation.​
Brilliant thread, helps all newbies with a clear detailing guide!
Thanks darkkid85 for you’re your nice words.
 
Thread Starter #23

Dr MUDHAN

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WORLD CLASS CAR PRODUCTS IN ONE STORE THAT TOO IN INDIA!
There is a great news for passionate car enthusiasts in India.

Auto paint has been improved from the days of lacquer covered with carnauba paste wax, and now it's more advanced, synthetic & hybrid, more durable and protects, shines longer than ever.

The products of world renowned manufactures - cleaning clay, microfiber cloths, Leather Care, paint cleaners, glazes, sealant, wax & polishing machines, accessories and more are available in India.

Detailed Clean, the enthusiast’s favorite auto care online store of UK has opened to Indian customers now and has brought their first dedicated Indian online car care products and car detailing supplies superstore store.

No more worries or hassle about import @ customs formalities.

dr.mu.jpg

Just have a visit here, you would be surprised and it would be unbelievable to know that you can get everything in India. The prices appears to be little higher but I still I feel it would work out cheaper when compared to direct import & the formalities one has to undergo. 15% Discounts also offered now.

I would review some of my favorite products & I expect your observations on your experience in case if you buy & try their resource - over quality, effect, ease of application, durability & value for money.

Detailed Clean India - Car Care Products | Car Detailing Products India

Auto Finesse
Bilt Hamber
Blackfire
Bouncer's Wax
CarPro
DC Basics
Deltayo Kestrel
Dodo Juice
EZ Detail Brush
Gtechniq
Nanolex
Pinnacle
Poorboys
Shine Mate
Sonus Car Care
Stoner
Ultima
Valet Pro
Wolfgang

Regards,
Dr.MUDHAN
 
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Why some products are called wash and wax.
Is this because they contain some wax and others have only shampoo


So no need of further waxing right???
 

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Thread Starter #25

Dr MUDHAN

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Why some products are called wash and wax.
Is this because they contain some wax and others have only shampoo
So no need of further waxing right???
I have already answered this:

LET US DISCUSS SOMETHING MORE ON CAR SHAMPOOS.
Types of Car shampoos – Natural, Synthetic, Simple or with Cleaner / Mild Abrasives etc. Some brands have a gloss enhancer built in; others have wax in there too.
These products are meant for normal maintenance and to give paint coat some shinning; The shinning may be due to added synthetic polymers or due to added natural wax like carnauba wax.

They are not durable and can’t compromise our periodical waxing which would give a better layer over sealants.

Soon you can expect a practical analysis over various steps of car detailing process in this thread.

Shampooing is over. Next we shall discuss about paint claying process.

.
 
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Nice Information Sir , Thanks For Sharing [:)]
The great Notorious-ji himself has commented on this thread. Dr. MUDHAN. You must be feeling extremely proud for having the king of detailing in India himself replying on your detailing thread. [:)] I love every one of Notorious-ji's work and if only he'd come down to Kerala and start a detailing centre....

Regards,
Vipin

PS: Can you tell me whether claying will create swirl marks or no? I have a Bilt Hamber medium clay bar with me but I'm afraid of using it on my new car as she is still swirl-free for the time being. Any help would be truly appreciated.
 
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Hi Vipin,

Firstly, any time your paint is touched it can be damaged.

Claying is an abrasive action, it can therefore leave marring on your paint. Generally, people clay and then follow up with polishing.

But I assume you want to clay and then protect with a wax (for example) in which case, the recommended way to proceed is with a less aggressive clay bar. BH medium clay is a fantastic clay bar to have.

Either way use plenty of lube, never let the clay stick, and if you drop the clay bar, toss it.
 
Thread Starter #28

Dr MUDHAN

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LET US DISCUSS SOMETHING MORE ON CLAYING THE CAR PAINT SURFACE.​

NEW HONDA CITY.jpg


Every car finish shares a common enemy: Polluted Environment.

Which results in surface contaminations such as industrial fallout, bird droppings, Rail Dust ,Road Grime, Brake Dust, Bugs Remains, Pollen ,Specs from Tree Sap or Tar, Paint Overspray and many other contaminants that float around the air and attach themselves to the paint’s surface.
It's in the air we breathe, it's on the roads we drive, and gets attached to our car's paint, where it bonds and begins a process of oxidation.
Preparation of paint by claying it for periodical waxing & polishing is a primary step; without this no one can prevent ageing of paint surface.
Washing our car removes the soft contamination but does little to reduce the impact of stubborn, imbedded contamination. If we wax over these contaminates, we simply seal them in where they will continue to do harm. Detailing Clay removes surface contamination from paint and leaves the car's finish as smooth as glass, super clean and super smooth.
I have not tried claying & detailing as I thought my car is new. But felt it later, the depth of shinning that one can achieve is something different on a clayed surface. As contamination doesn’t care whether our car is new or old. Even the new car requires it as the car is started at the factory, sits on the open lot waiting for transport via train or truck, and then it sits on lot waiting to be purchased.

Started exploring:

First, I started exploring about car clays.
Auto Detailing Clay Bar is a special resin compound used to remove contaminants from the surface of our car’s paint, glass, fiberglass, alloys and metal. It is a simple paint cleaner, prepares the paint surface for smooth waxing & polishing.
But, one should use a correct type of clay & also the way, otherwise it would create swirls or damage the clear coat. Dropping it on the ground renders this product useless as it would pick up grit.
All detailing clay requires the use of a clay lubricant/water to prevent scratches as we gently rub the clay on the vehicle.
There are soft, medium and aggressive clays. There are many manufactures - Apart from the original brand as claimed ‘Clay Magic’ Patented from the Japanese inventor, the best clay I felt it is from Bilt Hamber Auto-Clay (Made in UK) and they have different grades to suit our need - Soft, Medium & Regular.

CAR CLAY.jpg

CAR CLAY2.jpg

Benefits of claying a car paint:

1: Claying safely removes Above Surface Bonded Contaminants

2: Claying paint enable your choice of wax or paint sealant to better bond or adhere to the paint.

3: Claying paint restores a silky, smooth, clean surface.

4: Claying paint makes polishing easier, more effective and safer.


Surface Contamination Test:

Take a plastic baggie and place your hand inside the bag. 2. Run the bag over the same area of your paint that you felt with your bare hand.
The plastic bag basically amplifies the surface contamination bonded to our car. We can feel the difference.


Procedure for claying the car paint.

Things we need:

The right auto detailing clay bar
Clay lubricant
Clean microfiber towels
Auto paint cleaner, wax or sealant

Wash and dry your car thoroughly to remove as much of the dirt, grime, and other contaminants from the surface as possible.
Cut the clay bar into 3 to 4 pieces in order to get more use from each bar.
Squeeze the clay in your hand until it becomes easily pliable. Roll it into a ball and flatten it into a circular shape that is about 3/4 inches (1.91 cm) thick.
Spray clay lubricant generously over an area measuring approximately 2 feet by 2 feet (.61 m by .61 m).
Slide the clay back and forth gently over the lubricated area using as little pressure as possible. Add more lubricant if the clay sticks while you're trying to slide it.
You should hear and feel the clay picking up contaminants as it slides over the surface.
Fold the clay in half when it becomes dirty and knead it over itself until you have a clean surface. Be sure to examine the clay periodically to make sure that it doesn't pick up any large particles that could scratch your car's paint when you're sliding over .
Wipe the lubricant off the car using a clean microfiber towel. The paint should be as smooth as a sheet of glass. If it isn't, clay the area again.
Repeat the claying process, one section at a time, until the entire car has been clayed. Overlap new areas with surrounding areas already cleaned to ensure even coverage and cleaning.
The process will not be complete without applying a coat of wax or sealant in order to protect the paint from corrosion that can form in the tiny holes that had been previously filled with contaminants before claying.



Facts About Claying:

Claying removes surface contaminants, but it will not remove swirls or scratches in our car's paint.

A fine-grade clay bar is usually recommended. Larger grades of clay are more likely to cause marring or other damage to our car's paint.

Very few can clay an entire vehicles without inflicting some type of marring or fine scratches. It all depends on how careful we work, how much clay lube we use, grade of clay etc.

The trick is to knead the clay often so we do not drag any stuck particles over. we'll also notice them more on dark colored or black cars. A simple polish once done claying, should remove the marring/scratches.

Clay cars parked outside up to 4 times per year. Cars that are usually parked in a garage can be clayed 1 or 2 times per year.

Be careful not to drop the clay. If you do drop it, discard that piece of clay and start again with a new piece so that you don't risk picking up contaminants from the ground and scratching your car's paint.


Sources and Citations:
Clay Bar Detailing
How to use a clay bar on your Car
Clay Bar Auto Detailing Guide - Detailed Image
Auto detailing clay, detail clay bar, clay lubricant, Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang, auto detail clay, meguiar's detailing clay, auto clay bar
Editing "How to Use a Clay Bar" - wikiHow


What’s in my mind:

My colleagues are spending once in a while Rs.3 to 5 thousands, getting their car polished by the dealer and but it never appears to be long lasting.

I sincerely feel that we can create a kit for that amount and we would be having enough for a year and more. We can make self-polishing and can be repeated at any time we want, provided if you have the passion & spare time.

I am desperate to make my white car shine, to shine extraordinarily. I want to achieve the rain bow shine. I don’t know whether it would be possible on nonmetallic taffeta white shade. It may be possible on a pearl white shade but my efforts are continuing...

I am going to try the Bilt Hamber Auto- Clay (soft) as I personally prefer the soft one to avoid damaging clear coat of my new car & also decided to use the acclaimed products for white / light color cars, the POORBOYS White Diamond Glaze & Nattys Paste Wax.

Yes. Now all these world best car care products are available in India [:D] from:

Detailed Clean India - Car Care Products | Car Detailing Products India

I will share soon some of my claying/ polishing/ glazing /sealing & waxing pictures soon.

WHITE CARS.jpg

WHITE CARS 2.jpg
 
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Thread Starter #29

Dr MUDHAN

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PRODUCT REVIEW

FOCUSED ON:

Poor Boy.jpg


Bilt Hamber Auto- Clay (Soft)
Poor Boy’s White Diamond Glaze
Poor Boy’s Natty Paste Wax


I am not a professional car detailer!

I read more, learn from experts, and add my experience before I share the information with others.

Honestly, I have never done detailing by myself in any of my cars earlier. Somehow I like my present car ANHC 2013 Model - ALBUS & I wanted to give her the best.

I wanted my ALBUS taffeta white to be exciting. I know it’s not that easy. I always felt that the nicely maintained white cars when it glaze it sends a positive vibration. I did my search & research. Only a very few products deserving to be appreciated for making the white winning!

I found out that some of the products of Poor Boy’s can do this easily @ cost effective.

Of Couse claying is the basic step and therefore decided to start in the proper direction.

That’s why I tried the following which I got from detailedclean.in

1. Bilt Hamber Auto- Clay (Soft)
2. Poor Boy’s White Diamond Glaze
3. Poor Boy’s Natty Paste

The others - ONR/S & Klasse All-In-One & Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze which I imported from US before detailedclean.in started their operation in India.


This is my efforts:

1. Washed my car with ONR/S
2. Clayed part by part with BH Auto Clay (Soft)
3. Washed my car with ONR/S & Wiped with MF cloth
4. Cleaned with Klasse AIO
5. Glazed with PB white diamond
6. Sealed with KLASSE sealant
7. Topped up with PB Natty paste wax.
8. Maintained with ONR/S & OCW.


Which One Should Be My Auto Clay?

I understood from the internet that a very few brands of clay does its job properly. Some are aggressive and dangerous. The cheapest and ‘ok’ clay is Chinese 3M replica from Aliexpress. The one in the best is Bilt Hamber Auto- Clay.
Again, BH has three different version-Soft, Medium & Regular. As my car is well maintained and almost new, I preferred the soft one. But my conscious told whether it will be useful & pick up some contaminants! But the results were excellent & pleasant.
Actually it was a pleasure to feel the way the clay glides and to note its reaction over the contaminated area and I never expected my white clay would become so much discolored as I thought my car paint surface was good.

While claying I felt, in two places I inflicted line scratches because of my carelessness in applying clay lube (I used ONR/S dilution) but fortunately my next step made them to disappear.

After claying, I washed the surface by ONR/S and cleaned the paint surface by Klasse AIO.

My observations: I would definitely say that Bilt Hamber Auto- Clay (Soft) – Wonderful for the beginner, effective, easy to handle, excellent choice for nicely maintained cars & value for money.


Which One Should Be My Glaze?

After wiping the paint surface with MF cloth, I opened my sample of Poor Boy’s White Diamond Glaze.

Wow what a smell!

A Thick liquid glaze, shines like liquid pearl, I enjoyed the fruit fragrance while applying. One should be careful while applying near washer nozzle as did a mistake it got clogged & of course I have carefully removed.

White Diamond is for white and light color cars and is one of the best glazes out there and has some swirl filling ability as they appear less noticeable.

I applied the White Diamond few pea-sized drops panel by panel, let it to set / allowed to dry for up to 15 minutes, and buffed off carefully using MF Towel.

I was elated! What a deep wet shine!

I thought of leaving / ending the process.

I know, it will indeed wash away after a few washes if it is not protected. It has no longevity unless we seal it. Glazes, for the most part, are only for looks. Protection is not part of the scheme so it must be added after the glaze. But the sealant won't bond if the glaze is there in between the paint and sealant. I left the day for setting in for the next step.

My observations: Yes, this is water based, Suitable for hand use, excellently enhance the gloss on white color, very good filling ability but not to be expected as a best cleaner. (My Klasse AIO took care of it already & Amway SG is also a good cleaner). I consider the White Diamond Glaze a superior product. The results were so phenomenal to bring the surface to its full brilliance.


Which One Should Be My Sealant?

Next day morning I prepared the surface again by quick ONR/S wash, wiped by MF cloth and applied one coat of KLASSE sealant.
As I could not find time in between, I applied a second coat of KLASSE sealant after three days.
Waited for the week end for my last step of advanced detailing, for topping the surface with a best wax.

Which One Should Be My Wax?

I was looking for a unique Carnauba wax that is long lasting, gives a great shine and simple to use.

I got Poor Boy’s Natty Paste Wax. An outstanding topper, it’s a hard paste wax, applied over the sealant to get the long-lasting protection of a sealant and the wet gloss of a quality carnauba paste wax.

Smells great, goes on and off easy and leaves a deep shine and feels like silk to touch.

Poorboy's Natty's White Paste Wax is one of the best value waxes available on the market today. It produces an extremely wet looking shine with superb levels of clarity and depth on lighter-colored paints and can be layered to great effect. In addition to carnauba wax, it also contains patented UV light absorbers.

I USED Natty's White, the original & first PB product. There are two more improved one, Natty's Blue Paste Wax uses the same base ingredients as Natty's White but with more swirl hiding ability. This wax enhances dark paints and is particularly suited to solid cars like black, red, blue, etc @ slightly dull metallic flakes. Natty's Red is latest edition to the line-up for flake pop up effect and the most expensive. It was built using the knowledge learned from the previous two waxes. It promises to create a deep, rich carnauba shine on all paint colors without muting metallic flake.

My observations: Adds excellent protection, easy hand application, very good reflectivity, rich glossiness, excellent slick and beading ability. The only place it may lose out is durability against Collinite 845, but, certainly a better performer over all for white & light cars.
For white/silver color/ nonmetallic color cars, acrylic based finishes gives a kind of candy coating shiny looks, warm looks from waxes is difficult to achieve. So for light colors, acrylic based stuff looks great.
The PB Natty really helped to get the best of the both extremes, over the acrylic sealant.

To me Poorboy's World Detailing Products are fantastic products - No fancy packing and great value for money and they have everything in car detailing process.


FOOTNOTE:

The reality is, if you ask 100 car guys what their favorite detailer are, and you’re liable to get 100 different answers. You would come across from cheap Indian Waxpol products to ridiculously overpriced international products.

Choose for your best satisfaction or value for money or somewhere in between.

Don’t be afraid of all these complicated steps which is actually an advanced detailing process which you may not require if you are one among those 50 to 60 % car owners who just wash with good car shampoo and maintain their cars.

The steps I made it above to get maximum shine out of my car. We can stop anywhere if we feel that’s enough now & satisfied. But claying require, cleaning & protection.

If you want to be proud of your ride, you have to do some detailing at least once or twice in a year.

Actually all these steps in the process practically can’t be made continuous for want of time. Of course, we can spread out the steps over weekends. But it should be right to break between the processes - after applying cleaner AIO - after each layer of sealant and then break after each layer of wax. Wash is required every re- application.

While buying any car care products, just don’t compare the prices. The output quality, durability, amount of usage, quantum & weight of the contents are all counts.

I have unnecessarily wasted while importing Klasse products @ 300 % extra.

Try to avoid imports, as all most everything is available in India & there are many world best car care products are now available with detailclean.in.

Example, Poorboys Spray & Wipe 16oz / Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate (Waterless Car Wash) & Poorboys Black Hole Glaze (Car Glazes for dark color cars) & Poorboys EX-P Sealant/ Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant (Paint Sealants) & Dodo Juice Diamond White Wax / Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Wax (Wax) etc., have a look at it, you would be surprised.

All the best in your attempt.

The pictures will speak the truth...[:D]
 
Thread Starter #30

Dr MUDHAN

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CLAY & CLAYING PROCESS​

I have made the clay into 4 pieces. Only one piece I have used and others kept safely in the original container of BILT HAMBER. I utilised the used bottle of Mr Muscle for clay lube which I prepared out of ONR/S dilution.


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