DIYs Done On My 2017 Hyundai Creta (1.6L CRDi)

Thread Starter #16
Dec 29, 2015
Power Window switch illumination
  • Hyundai India conveniently decided to omit the lighting on the individual power window switches making it difficult for users to locate the switch during night times. Thanks to AliExpress, these switches were readily available at a decent price. Without much thought, I went ahead and got three of them.

Power window switches from AliExpress
5. New Power window switch.jpg

New vs OEM switch
7. OEM vs new switch.jpg

Door pad removed
1. Door pad removed.jpg

The power window connector removed
2. OEM power window switch.jpg

Using a small flat screwdriver, pry the tabs (marked using the arrows in yellow) to free the switch from the door pad
3. Using screwdriver free switch from 4 tabs.jpg

The power window switch removed
4. Switch removed.jpg

The 5-pin power window switch connector
8. Power Window switch connector.jpg

Test successful
9. Test successful.jpg

Rear switch installed
10. Rear driver side door switch changed.jpg

Front switch installed
11. Front passenger side door switch changed.jpg

Close-up of the illumination
12. Closeup of illumination.jpg

Small LED bulb for the illumination - matches the interior lighting
13. Small LED (Blue).jpg
  • The point here is, the wiring etc is ready in the car with this feature enabled but Hyundai decided to cheap out on the switches and all it takes is a simple switch change to get this lighting to work. This modification is not going to make any 'real' difference in operation but will address something that should have been there since day 1.
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Thread Starter #17
Dec 29, 2015
DIY - Puddle Lamps
  • Another cosmetic modification but thanks to the door design, the overall lighting spread wasn't as I wanted.

Puddle lamp - A pair
2. Puddle Lamps - Tied in pairs.jpg

4. LED's used in the puddle lamps.jpg

Details and dimensions
5. Dimensions.jpg

The hole was drilled in the access cap on the base of the ORVM casing
5. Drilling a hole in the base cap.jpg

Puddle lamp mounted on the base cap trim of the ORVM
6. Puddle lamp fixed on the base cap - Outside view.jpg

The screw tightened to hold it in place
7. Puddle lamp fixed on the base cap - Inside view.jpg

The cap refit on the ORVM base
8. Base cap fixed to the ORVM unit.jpg

View of the puddle lamp from underneath
9. How it looks when mounted on the door.jpg

Puddle lamp ON showing the throw of the light onto the road below
10. Light spread - Front view.jpg

Close-up of the puddle lamp when the LED is on
12. Close up - Puddle lamps.jpg
  • As seen in the image above, the sharp crease on the door near the ORVM area is blocking most of the light which is not helping matters in lighting up the road below.
  • There is no other location on the ORVM body where I could mount the puddle lamps for better light output but I compromised.
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Thread Starter #18
Dec 29, 2015
LED Swap - Interior lights (Cabin and Boot)
  • As per the specifications, the interior lights are 31mm in dimension and 'festoon' type. There are 2 bulbs in the front reading light; 1 bulb in the central cabin light (between the front and rear seats) and 1 bulb in the boot. So I placed an order for 10 bulbs from AliExpress since it was cheaper to get.
31mm festoon LED bulb
3 SMD 31mm festoon.jpg

OE bulb vs LED (31mm festoon)
OE vs LED festoon.jpg

1. Cabin Light LED swap

Front Reading light
Reading Light.jpg

Instructions to open the covers to gain access to the bulbs
How to open to access bulb.jpg

Covers removed - OE bulb in the holder
Reading Light - OE Festoon in place.jpg

Replaced with the LED bulb and angled it outwards for better light throw
Reading Light - LED Festoon in place.jpg

The difference in lighting - OEM vs LED
OE vs LED in lighting.jpg

OEM light output in the cabin
Before replacing cabin light with LED.jpg

LED light output in the cabin post replacement
After replacing cabin light with LED.jpg

2. Boot LED swap

Boot light with OEM festoon bulb in the holder
OE festoon in boot lamp.jpg

Replaced with the 31mm festoon LED
LED festoon in boot lamp.jpg

LED glowing in the boot.jpg

Light output with the OEM bulb
Boot - Before replacing with LED.jpg

Light output with the LED bulb - The picture is not doing justice but yes, this was not sufficient as the area to the left of the boot was still in the dark
Boot - After replacement with LED.jpg
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Thread Starter #19
Dec 29, 2015
DIY - Boot Illumination modification
  • To address the dark area in the boot (especially the left side), I added a piece LED strip to evenly lighten the boot. Used the same strip of LED as in the footwell and glove box illumination.

Wiring and insulation tape was purchased for completing this modification
2. Wire and insulation tape bought.jpg

The boot lamp removed from the mount
3. Boot lamp.jpg

Soldering two wires on the metal contact point for connecting the LED strip
4. Wires being soldered to the boot lamp.jpg

Two wires soldered on the boot lamp
5. Two wires soldered.jpg

LED strip stuck on the underside of the parcel tray for effective lighting when the boot lid is opened
6. Parcel tray removed.jpg

Beading opened to route the wires
7. Boot beading pulled to pass wiring.jpg

Used bullet connectors on the parcel tray for connecting the wires. Will help when there is a need to remove the parcel tray from the car without losing the boot light
8. Bullet connectors used and wiring secured.jpg

Wiring from the cabin connected to the parcel tray
9. Wiring from boot lamp to parcel tray with extra buffer.jpg

LED in action from inside the car when the boot is opened. Also seen to the left is the small OEM boot light
10. LED strip in action.jpg

Light output - Before the modification
11. Boot Lighting - Before.jpg

Light output - After the modification
12. Boot lighting after LED strip fixed.jpg

Another image of the LED strip lighting up the boot. Also seen are the puddle lamps in action
13. Boot Lighting.jpg
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Thread Starter #20
Dec 29, 2015
LED Swap - Tail lights + Brake lights
  • Another LED swap has been carried forward from my previous car.

Used this for the parking light located on the boot lid

Used this for main parking + brake light located on the body of the car
Philips Xtreme Vision LED.jpg

Twin tail lights - In the OE setup, the internal ones (located on the boot lid) light up as parking lights only whereas the outer one is for both parking + brake light

Pry open to remove the cover - The location to pry is highlighted using the white arrow
Remove cover.jpg

The cover was removed to access the bolts holding the tail light
Cover removed.jpg

The boot lid panel was removed to gain access to the bulbs on the inner side
Boot lid cover removed.jpg

Tail light removed from the body
Tail light off body.jpg

Sockets and connectors of the lights
Brake light sockets.jpeg

Stock halogen bulb
OE tail light bulb.jpg

Replaced with LED
Philips LED tail light bulb.jpg

Connector and bulb holder for the inner tail light section
Tail light socket.jpg

OE tail lights + brake pressed
OE bulbs.jpg

Lights after the LED swap
Replaced with LED.jpg

Swapped the number plate light with LED (T10)
Registration plate T10 OE bulb.jpg
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Thread Starter #21
Dec 29, 2015
DIY - Dual Brake Light MOD
  • In the Creta, the outer lamp glows brighter when the brake is pressed since it has a dual filament bulb whereas the inner lights are single filaments that glow only when parking lights are turned ON. I wanted all four lights to glow when the brake is pressed.

Got a spare set of the tail light harness from a scrapped Creta to use the pins for the addition of a new wire to connect the two tail lights

The inner section light removed to connect the wire

Tail lamp removed

Wiring harness pins on the couplers

De-pining was done to solder a wire to connect the two tail lamps

Parking lights ON

Brake lights ON - All four lamps turn ON when the brake is pressed
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Thread Starter #22
Dec 29, 2015
LED Swap - Reverse Light
  • Bulb Type: T16

OE bulb vs LED
2. OE T15 vs LED T15.jpg

Socket for the reverse bulbs (connector with two blue wires)

LED bulb fixed
4. LED T15 in place.jpg

OE yellow - Light output
1. OE reverse light.jpg

LED bulb - Light output
5. T15 LED reverse light.jpg
  • After 1 year the LED bulbs started to fail slowly and by then AliExpress was not shipping to India anymore so decided to try something locally so I can procure the replacement easily (if required).
New LED bulbs

Old LED bulbs vs New ones (Better quality and fit)

LED output during the day time post swap
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Thread Starter #23
Dec 29, 2015
  • Another simple LED swap from the OEM yellow bulbs
  • Bulb type - T10
HMSL (High Mount Stop Lamp) - Sits flush with the boot lid. Access to the bulbs is from inside the body of the HMSL
1. HMSL.jpg

HMSL cover
2. HMSL cover.jpg

Using a pry tool or flat screwdriver, pry open at the location pointed in the image below to remove the cover
2a. Way to open HMSL cover.jpg

The cover removed
3. HMSL cover removed.jpg

Three screws exposed that hold the HMSL to the body of the boot lid
4. HMSL holding screws.jpg

Remove the washer fluid pipe and remove the HMSL from the body to gain access to the individual bulbs
6. HMSL View 2.jpg

OEM T10 vs LED bulb
10. OE T10 vs T10 LED.jpg

Difference in lighting - OE vs LED
8. OE vs LED comparo.jpg

All 4 bulbs replaced with LED
9. All T10 replaced with LED.jpg
Thread Starter #24
Dec 29, 2015
LED Swap - Indicators
  • Since it was a solo DIY, I couldn't click detailed images of this DIY. The flasher circuit in the Creta has the relay embedded in the BCM so replacing it was not possible. The only way I could add an LED bulb with the issue of 'hyper-flashing' was by adding a resistor in between. I procured 4 resistors with scotch lock connectors for this modification.

  • These bulbs were carried forward from my old car (Swift ZDi).

Resistors used with the scotch lock connectors

OEM bulb vs LED bulb
  • Since the resistors get hot when the LEDs work, they had to be mounted on a metal surface strictly to avoid any issues. I chose safe locations that wouldn't be an issue when the resistors get hot.
  • Will add the video link here after I upload it on YouTube.
Thread Starter #25
Dec 29, 2015
Rear Reflectors - LED Swap

What I paid
1a. Price I paid.jpg

Pair of reflectors
1. Pair of LED's.jpg

Wiring to be connected to the tail lamps
3. Wiring that needs to be connected.jpg

Tail light removed from the body
4. Tail light removed for connection.jpg

Removing the OE reflectors from the bumper
5. Bumper removed to remove.jpg

OE Reflectors
6. OE Reflector.jpg

Tail light connector and socket
7. Socket and connectors of the tail light.jpeg

Wiring out for the connector
8. Connector for the tail light where the wires need to be connected.jpeg

New wires to be soldered to the pins for reflectors to work properly
9. Which wire goes where.jpg

De-pinning was done to solder the new set of wires
10. OE Wire de-pin from connector to connect the new wires.jpg

Routing the wiring
11. Bumper refit.jpg

Reflectors in action - When parking lights are ON
12. When pilot lamps switch on.jpg

Reflectors in action - When parking + brake lights are ON
13. When brakes are pressed.jpg
Thread Starter #26
Dec 29, 2015
Addition of aftermarket TPMS - SensAiry (from TymTix, Bangalore)
  • TPMS was another important addition that was planned since I got the car. I came across this company based in Bangalore and was fully 'Made in India'. Customer support (Mr Ajay) is top-notch and available always.
  • I was particular about the TPMS being an internal type sensor along with a 5 sensors option as the spare wheel is generally neglected. The locally available TPMS are 4 wheel sensors and generic make.
  • The TPMS was installed on my car on the 19th of May 2018.
  • It has been almost 1 lakh km since the installation.

What I paid - Way back in 2018.
1. How much I paid.jpg

The packaging box
2. Package.jpg

The specifications
3. Spec.jpg

Sensors and Valve stems
4. Sensors and Valve stems.jpg

One sensor and valve stem assembled
6. Sensor mounted on valve stem (illustration purpose).jpg

Sensors paired and labelled accordingly
7. Sensors paired and labelled.jpg

Temperature and pressure Units settings page
8. Pressure and Temp setting page.jpg

Low or High-pressure alerts on the App

Tyre removed from the alloys for the sensor installation
1. Tyre removed.jpg

OE air valve stem cut off
2. OE air stem valve to cut seat.jpg

New stem installed
3. TPMS valve stem in position.jpg

The tool used to pull and fit the stem to the seat correctly
5. Tool used to pull and fit valve seat in place.jpg

The cloth used over the alloy to protect the surface when using the above tool
6. Cloth used to prevent damage to alloy.jpg

Full sensor + valve stem installed
8. Whole sensor.jpg

Balancing done after the installation
13. Balalcing done.jpg

All sensors post-filling air and driving around for 50 km
18. After a drive of 47 kms.jpg

SensAiry & Android Auto
SensAiry on HU.jpg

The main screen displays pressure and temperature data on the screen
Sceen 1.jpg

The second screen for the fifth sensor (Spare wheel)
Screen 2.jpg

Screen at night
Night time view.jpg
  • The above screenshots that I have uploaded are of the initial stage. Currently, the application has been updated a lot with a lot more finesse.
  • As of now 3 out of 5 sensors have stopped reading out data. After contacting the support team, they told me that the batteries (coin cell) must have died since it has crossed 5 years and the average life of these batteries are 5 years.
  • I have been recommended to replace the sensors on the whole as the batteries can't be swapped out. I'll be making the purchase soon and updating here.
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Thread Starter #27
Dec 29, 2015
DIY - HID Retrofit in the Headlights

In my earlier car (Maruti Swift ZDi), I had retrofit XP Micro HID projectors in the fog lamps and that made a sea of changes in the lighting output of the car. When it was time to change the car, I decided to perform this modification after 6-7 months of usage.
  • The odometer at the time of installation was ~45,6xx km and was done in November 2018 (1 year after purchase). The current odometer is 1,24,800 km and so far headlight bulb has failed twice. Once it was replaced under warranty and the second time I had to purchase a local brand - Genome D2S bulb.
The bracket set ordered from AliExpress (ready-made for Creta/ix25) for HID retrofit
2. The Bracket.jpeg

Red oxide primer for the bracket
3. Red oxide.jpg

Wire brush and paintbrush to coat the bracket
4. Brushes for enamel.jpg

Paint can for painting the bracket in black
5. Black aerosol paint.jpg

Cleaned, sanded and applied red oxide on the bracket (2 coats)
6. Red oxide applied.jpg

After drying applied paint on the surface (2 coats)
7. Brackets painted black.jpg

Test fitting the bracket in the headlight enclosure
8. Bracket inside the HL Casing - Test fit.jpg

Test fitting the projector unit in the bracket
9. D2S projector - Test fit on bracket.jpg

Highlighted areas were required to be filed for the projector to be seated correctly. Since we didn't have access to dremel, we had to use the file
Filing to be done to fit clips.jpg
  • Morimoto D2S 4.0 Stage III kit
The whole kit
2. Contents of the kit.JPG

Morimoto Ballast - XB55 (50W)
3. XB 55 Ballast.jpg

Morimoto HID bulb - XB35 (35W 5500K)
4. XB 5500K D2S Bulb.jpg

Morimoto Wiring Harness - HD Relay (9005 type)
9. HD Relay 9005 type.jpg

Morimoto D2S 4.0 Projector - RHD version
12. Mini D2S 4.0 Projector.JPG

The damaged headlight was procured for all the measurements and test fitting purpose
1. Damaged HL for measurements.jpg
  • OEM Projector Images
OEM Projector unit
2. Removed from mount.jpg

Shield & Motor
3. Shield and motor - Rear view.jpg

Projector casing and lens (fresnel type)
5. Lens and bracket - Side view.jpg

OEM Cut-off shield
9. Close up of cut off on the shield.jpg

  • Installation Images
The bumper was removed for the easy removal of the headlight and routing of the wiring
1. Bumper removed.jpg

Headlights removed and taken in for installation
4. Bumper and HL removed.jpg

Homemade jugaad to heat treat the headlight for separating the clear lens from the rest of the headlight body
7. Homemade Oven used.JPG

Headlight is placed inside the box for the heating process
8. HL Placed in the box.jpg

The hot air gun is placed on one end of the box to heat the inside (make sure heat is not blowing directly onto the headlight else it would deform)
9. Hot air gun heating the box internals.jpg

On the other end of the box, placed the digital thermometer to keep track of the approximate temperatures inside
10. Digital thermo for temp reading.jpg

After sufficient heating inside the box, manual heat was applied at localized areas and prying using the screwdriver to separate the clear lens from the body
11. Prying while heating with the gun.jpg

Clear lens separated
12. Clear lens separated.jpg

Retrorubber - sealant added in the channel to re-seal the headlight
19. Retrorubber to reseal the HL.jpg

  • Fitment images
Test fit to ensure everything works as required
22. HL refit to test.jpg

Ballast secured on the frame
21. Ballast secured.jpg

HD Relay secured to the radiator frame on the inside
25. HD relay secured to body.JPG

Cut off line without any adjustment
29. Cut off line after retrofit before adjustment.jpg

Two screws inside the headlight casing for adjustment (Left and right and/or Up and Down)
30. Two screws for manual alignment.jpg
  • Lighting output images
Cut-off lines on the OEM halogen projector headlights
Cut off pattern - zoom in (stock).jpg

Cut-off lines after Morimoto retrofit projector
Cut off pattern - zoom in (Morimoto).JPG

OEM Halogen projectors - Low beam
Low beam (stock).jpg

OEM Halogen projectors - High beam
High beam (stock).jpg

After Morimoto retrofit - Low beam
Low beam - Morimoto.JPG

After the Morimoto retrofit - High beam
High beam - Morimoto.JPG

  • Genome D2S HID Bulb
Purchased these locally from a seller in Hyderabad since one of the Morimoto ones failed.

The packing


D2S Bulb - Pair
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