Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16


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This is exactly the same as my current petrol tank cap. In the new one the part marked with green is plastic (white colour). But the holes marked with red are missing. So I can confirm this is a manufacturing defect. The current leaky cap is Minda make. New one is spark. Deeply appreciate your post. Very very helpful. I'll get my new one replaced. Thank you. Screenshot_20201115-121857_Samsung Internet.jpg Screenshot_20201115-122229_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Thread Starter #512
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This is exactly the same as my current petrol tank cap. In the new one the part marked with green is plastic (white colour). But the holes marked with red are missing. So I can confirm this is a manufacturing defect. The current leaky cap is Minda make. New one is spark. Deeply appreciate your post. Very very helpful. I'll get my new one replaced. Thank you. View attachment 283212 View attachment 283213

My new one had the hole in the black plastic. Didn't check the inside one.

2019-07-25 21-15-47.jpg


(Spark is the new branding for Minda)
 
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My new one had the hole in the black plastic. Didn't check the inside one.

View attachment 283214

(Spark is the new branding for Minda)
Yes this is an important set of air passage holes (I think it's called breather holes (not sure) ) without which petrol will not flow out from the tank. This is a one way mechanism which doesn't let petrol evaporate out from the tank but lets air in. This is a most often overlooked part. If this is clogged even partially, it affects top end performance. Although I noticed the difference between the new and old ones, initially I thought there could be some changes due to design revision so that the holes could be located elsewhere in the new one. Also the seller was obstinate that this could not have ant defects as it's Genuine Yamaha since all Genuine Yamaha parts come quality checked. That's why I got confused. Thank you so much.
 
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Thread Starter #515
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October 2020 - No One's Perfect

Barricade was running smoothly after service

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and boom, gear lever linkage fell off. Second time someone forgetting to tighten it up. Last time, they didn't put even the bolt.

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It'll sit back without a bolt, so was able to reach back home.

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Took a longer bolt from the parts bin, in case the next guy forgets to tighten in up, the bolt will take longer to fall off.

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Voila!

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When old school is literally too old school. They cut the Allen bolt to fit in a flat screwdriver [frustration]

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Thread Starter #516
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November 2020 - Insurance Renewal - Switched to Acko

While checking options, Acko was quoting the lowest. Been using New India for past 10 years and thought of a change. Acko was offering paper-less renewal and virtual and complete cashless claim. Reviews were good. Already had Acko on the Polo 1.2. They gave free 1-month extension during lock down. Renewal was pretty simple. No need upload any documents or vehicle photographs. Just had to enter vehicle number, select the make and model, owner name as per RC, and obviously mobile number and email ID and check and make payment. Policy was mailed instantaneously. Got the best IDV as well, ₹ 24,425.00, while New India was offering around ₹ 15,000.00.

Third-Party Premium - ₹ 752.00
Own Damage Premium - ₹ 63.00 (after 50% NCB)
GST (18%) - ₹ 146.70

Net Premium - ₹ 961.00
 
Thread Starter #517
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November 2020 - My Boy turns 11

Except the last screw ups, running strong and fine. Needs valve adjustment, since not properly set recently. I can feel one of the valves ticking.

2021-01-10 14-06-07.jpg


Fate and dream. Booked Dio, but ended buying FZ. Story in first post. Now I got both. Dio not mine, but like mine and now my daily commute. It's 18 years old and clocked between 80k and 90k km (speedometer replaced).

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Thread Starter #518
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December 2020 - New Horn Relay

The 10-plus-year-old relay conked off in the torrential rain. It was a Mobi Tech branded one, which was the only one available then when metal ones was predominating the market. Horn kept honking, disconnected the fuse.

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Water seeped in causing rusting. Used to open and seal the relays installed outside with rubber based adhesive, but forgot with this particular one, but still it survived good 10 years.

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Bought new Roots relay.

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Sealed one.

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Had to drill the clamp to accommodate bigger bolt. Usually these are just screwed on to body.

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Clamp is removable to fit inside relay box.

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Added sleeve to minimize exposure.

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Cleaned and applied petroleum gel inside the connector.

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Plugged in.

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Installed and to be forgotten for another 10 years [evil]


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Threw away the air filter rubber shroud (again). It's annoyingly hindering removing the air filter box cover.

2020-11-27 17-56-26.jpg
 
Thread Starter #519
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February 2021 - Fixing Fuel Gauge + Misc Jobs

Most of the FZ owners (and also others with digital fuel gauge) face this annoying problem of low fuel always blinking. Usually gets fixed after cleaning the connectors, but when the fuel float is not detected by the meter, it starts blinking full tank, which is super frustrating than the former.

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The connector sits right under the tank.

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Removed the clips from the plastic outer socket and wires were broken, as expected.

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Brand-new clips.

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Crimped.

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Connected and problem solved

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Rubber grommet well nut holding the tank panels on to the chassis. Only one each side, rest 4 per side being spring nuts. Damaged over time, but no one bothers to replace them. Bolt was also missing.

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Had Pulsar ones handy. These costs ₹ 14.50 a piece, but the star screw coming along with these costs only ₹ 4.00. These are for visor for all Bajaj bikes. Yamaha charges almost ₹ 60 for a bolt and ₹ 80 for a nut spring, no clue of these grommets.

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Fits perfect.

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Had perfect bolt in bin and grommet compresses well.

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Had another type in the parts bin, forgot which one.

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New plug and play connector for 12V socket. Old one had thicker gauge wire, which was an overkill. Connectors were corroded and damaged over time. Most mechanics didn't bother to connect back the ground.

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Routed.

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Grounded directly to battery this time. Positive via fuse.

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Connected to the Xenos Stingray socket.

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Another problem noted after head work is oil depletion. No smoke, no oil in filter box. Took almost half liter top up in 1.5k km. 200 ml may be from complete drain from last engine rework.

2021-02-28 18-43-10.jpg
 

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Thread Starter #520
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February 2021 - Annoying Brake Pad Rattle

Brake pads were rattling even on slightest unevenness of road and more annoying over potholes and unpaved surfaces. Same happened in 2017, ended in caliper overhauling. Thought of resetting pads and greasing at first.

Pads were in great shape 35k km of use. No noise. Visually good for another 5k km. These were from FZ version 2. Cleaned them with degreaser aka Vim liquid and sanded them perpendicular to their plane of wear.

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Caliper pin replaced in 2017. No bad.

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Greased the pin with TVS-Girling caliper grease.

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Installed back.

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Initial run was fine, rattling has reduced, but still present.
 
Thread Starter #522
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Does shimming help ? Have heard that over the time shim sheets get between the sleeve and pin and again cause noise, but can last upto 3-6months in my opinion(If calliper pin wear is ok)
Shimming works on cars, but not on bikes as the pins are too small to accommodate the sheets, but are easily replaceable.
 
Thread Starter #523
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March 2021 - Caliper Repair (Again)

One of the main causes of rattling pads was faulty return spring. Got these back in 2017 from India Spares, but the site got hacked and never came back. I was skeptical about finding them at spare counters as many of the child parts were depleting from their stock and never restocked. Luckily found them at Muthoot Yamaha.

Return Spring - 5US-F5977-00 - ₹ 26.00

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Old return spring. The damage caused by disc rotor and imprint they caused on the piston can be seen here.

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Insulator and dust seal seems swollen.

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Pushed back pistons and cleaned the caliper.

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Caliper Dust Cover - 5US-W0053-00 - ₹ 18.00
Caliper Insulator - 5US-W0068-00 - ₹ 22.00
Had both in my parts bin.

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Insulator. Swollen vs new.

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Dust cover. Swollen vs new.

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One of the guide pins is rusted. Both pins and removable but not available as child part.

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Sanded and cleaned. Gotta buy brake cleaner next time.

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Old caliper return spring and pads. Itched to replace pads as well. Lot more life left, but feels hard.

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Caliper grease.

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New return spring installed.

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Trial fit.

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Installed.

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Caliper pin.

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Greased and installed.

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Caliper ready for install.

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Ready to roll.

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Found another one.

2021-03-12 17-14-37.jpg
 
Thread Starter #524
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March 2021 - Oil Change

Castrol Power 1 Cruise 15W50. Bought during last year's lockdown relaxation. One litre used then had to be drained prematurely due to unprecedented gearbox rework due to the shoddy job of the previous guy. Pretty sure, this litre also won't be utilized fully due to extreme low usage.

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Drained and filled.

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Drain plug and crush washer. Still brand new.

2021-03-14 18-38-48.jpg
 
Thread Starter #525
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March 2021 - Brake Pads

I was sceptical about changing pads as they had enough life left, but it was hard and noisy and causing play frequently, may be due to oval'd hole. This time, got the original version one's pad, which they don't stock usually. Surprisingly, Yamaha updated their packing, now similar to the Japanese packing. Bought from Spark Automobiles, the neighbourhood store.

Brake Pad Set - 5US-W0045-00 - ₹ 152.00

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Bybre make. Same pads shared with Pulsar 220, non-ABS NS, RS, etc., but ironically costlier than Yamaha.

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Got to push the piston all the way in for new pads.

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Screwdriver and mallet and it goes in. High time for a C-clamp.

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Pistons all the way in.

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Old vs new. Version 1 vs Version 2.

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Just curious to use the vernier caliper sitting idle in cupboard [lol] Difference is about 2 mm.

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Greased the pins.

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Installed.

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