Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16 (2009) - Midnight Black


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deville_56

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March 2021 - Oil Leak

Oil leak has been a persistent issue since the morons screwed up the bike. Starts dripping in drops after last oil change. New bolt + old fatigued thread tends to leak.

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Bulldog comes to rescue. Gasket maker bought for some other project.

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Loosened the drain bolt.

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Applied the sealant and tightened back. Leak fullstop. Crush washer recentred later.

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Sore looking plastic caps. Needs replacement soon. Won't give for timing adjustment with good caps again. Can be easily opened with a coin or a steel scale, but almost all remove them with normal screwdriver.

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Thread Starter #527

deville_56

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April 2021 - Choke Cable Delete

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Never had to use choke in my bike till date. It starts with a single crank, any season, any time. The cable usually gets rusted and stuck due to disuse and when someone pulls it up, it acts up on the bike and is a menace. Replacing the unused cable periodically was another expense on pocket. Been searching for compatible "on-carb" choke levers for some time and got to understand RX100 lever can be installed. Searched everywhere and not to be found. Available online, but asking price was insane and unjustifiable, 5 times original price. Searched Indian bikes with such lever and zeroed to Pulsars. Checked with Bajaj and all were adamant that Pulsar never came with a clutch pull and had auto choke.

One night, was going to wife's house and spotted a new shop (rather old one renovated) with a huge Bajaj Spares board, stopped and checked with them. Answer was wait till the other customers are dealt with. He showed me the part, needle ended, unlike flat end of RX. Came in UG5 Pulsars and Avenger. Hard to find enthusiastic guys over counter nowadays. Shop name is A-One Auto Spares near Panavila. Bought the part, but unsure about the fit on FZ carb.

Plunger Assembly Set (Bajaj) - DJ121059 - ₹ 91.00

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Longer than RX100 plunger.

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Installation. Removing stock cable and choke.

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Pulsar vs stock.

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Test fit.

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Fits perfect. Never gonna use it [evil]

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Removing stock choke lever and cable. Undo the switch bolts and both of them comes off.

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Pull out the cable and done.

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With choke vs without choke. Just because of the choke lever, I couldn't upgrade to FZ v3 switchgear with push down pass light switch. Indeed, I had been in search of the pull-type choke lever for that purpose as well.

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Stock parts, for safe storage.

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Bonus, the puncture posted previously. Didn't get time to fix it, was running with the nail on, topping up air. Leak was slow, so never bothered.

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Getting new nails recently, [embarass] but I won't give them a penny.

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I still have 30+ puncture strips [evil].

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Thread Starter #528

deville_56

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April 2021 - Misc Updates

Parts hunt, started out in search of straight screw plugs (Yamaha term). The deformed ones were ugly (but will fit them every time I visit some garage for timing-adjustment-mandated jobs).

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One of the engine case bolts was missing. That was also in list, but couldn't get one after touring all the Yamaha dealers and spares in town. Even tried Bajaj as they were same on Pulsars. That was a 40-mm long M6 bolt with 8-mm head instead of 10-mm one. Bought a single regular M6x40 MS Flange Bolt from RV Group Engineering Arena, ₹ 4.00/piece. Regular head was big for the casing to accommodate. Alternative was Allen bolts. Had some M6 Allen bolts, but were 50 mm long. These were for Pulsar bar end weight.

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Plan was to cut the extra 10 mm, but found a 40 mm one among old discarded bolts. This was a high tensile SS bolt for Duke's crash guard. Removed from Duke while replacing crash guard and had a slight bend in the unthreaded shaft length.

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Installed for the time being, but a lost OE bolt is a lot OE bolt. The search will continue.

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Got a silver big straight screw plug from Muthoot Yamaha, black was out of stock. These belonged to 125 cc Yamahas like Gladiator, Enticer, YD125, etc.

Straight Plug Screw (Big) (Silver) - 90340-32808 - ₹ 14.00

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Next day, checked with Denz Yamaha. They had abundant spare in stock, but they had inventory management issues. Network was down and the guy at the counter and the lady staff had no idea of what I was asking for or where to look for. Didn't even have a hard copy of the parts manual. A mechanic working there came by for spares and he had better idea of what is what and what is where. Got the required plugs in no time. He said bolt is there, but he had no clue as it needed part number to pinpoint the location. Didn't bother. Only thought was to escape from there as none of the staff wore a mask and the count was peaking, only exception was the security.

Straight Screw Plug (Big) - 90340-32805 - ₹ 13.00

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Straight Screw Plug (Small) - 90340-14117 - ₹ 11.00

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Plugs.

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Got to buy o-rings for install. Forgot about that. Found a shop with tons of o-rings in all sizes [evil]

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Finally, bought a C-clamp, if I remember a 3-inch one for around ₹ 200.00. Found a shop named Krishna Enterprises in Marakkada Road, Trivandrum, which was open late night and even on Sundays, boon for all weekend-screwed DIYians.

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and had use so soon. Third or fourth time working with calipers. All of a sudden, pushing pistons became an easy 10-second job.

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What now? Forgot to grease while replacing pads and caliper was hard and not floating freely.

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All is well.

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Marathon Wash.

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Parked for the next lockdown.

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Momo break while running for cover. Lockdown 2.0 declared and took my boy with me to the hideout.

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April 2021 - Misc Updates
One of the engine case bolts was missing.
Hey, I checked with Sivaji Yamaha Kaimanam (Opp to RE showroom) and they have the the engine case bolt (Part # 95027-06040). If you need please let me know, I can procure from Sivaji, I stay near Muthoot Yamaha, Killipalam.
 
Thread Starter #530

deville_56

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Hey, I checked with Sivaji Yamaha Kaimanam (Opp to RE showroom) and they have the the engine case bolt (Part # 95027-06040). If you need please let me know, I can procure from Sivaji, I stay near Muthoot Yamaha, Killipalam.
Will check with them. Strange coincidence, always end up there right at lunch break. Any idea of the price? Yamaha always price the fasteners insanely.
 
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deville_56

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April 2021 - Fork Reflectors

I was always fond of fork reflectors (or side reflectors) from childhood. Searched for them from eBay days. Hated the round ones available on Yamaha RX series (but RXZ came with rectangle ones). One day, Vespa popped up with side reflectors and bought 4 of them from the friendly (now defunct) dealer. They were bolt-on and managed to remove the bolt, but suitable only for flat surfaces. The search continued and Honda came with more squarish rectangle ones, again bolt-on type, but manageable with custom clamps, but as always, Honda kept the tradition of not providing uncommon spares (save for filters, cables, shared/common body parts). Then, MOT made it mandatory in BS6 motorcycles. Loved the Bajaj reflector, rectangle with curved edges and slimmer. YouTubers and vloggers from north were installing them on everything they could find while in the other part, we were (are still) running behind Bajaj spare parts distributor for a pair of those. RE had proper spare network here, so one day visited Subha Auto Wares, the RE genuine parts outlet in Trivandrum, and they had in stock. Bought two of them. They were easygoing than the Bajaj showroom outlets.

Reflex Reflector with Base (Royal Enfield) - RAH00259/S (Royal Enfield) - ₹ 85.00 x 2

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Made by Rinder, RR64060.

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DOT certified.

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Came with self-adhesive double-sided 3M tape.

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Cleaned the fork

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and installed.

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Handsome. Opinions please. My generation Z friends make fun of me calling this an uncle mod.

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May 2021 - More Puncture.

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Weapon of mass destruction.

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Plenty of them left. Let them throw more nails [gun]

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Mending one on the edge of the grip is tricky.

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Thread Starter #537

deville_56

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June 2021 - Black Rotors (Again)

Have been replaced the brake rotor 6 years ago and completely forgot about replicating the paint job done on the first disc plate. Current one started forming surface rust here and there.

To start with, remove the wheel and the rotor and fit back the wheel as it might take some time and leaving the bike to balance on its own can be haphazard especially when you have pesky kids at home.

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Last time had to go to a lathe to remove the bolt by welding as it seized on the alloys. Applied a minute film of grease on the new bolts then, and it came off with little effort without getting stuck.

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The rotor. Li'l bit of rust can be seen.

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Cleaned with brake cleaner.

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Alloy side had more rust. Sanded with 400 water paper.

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Prepped.

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Bybre make. Minimum thickness 3.5 mm. Older rotor wasn't worn either.

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Masked. No need for a perfect job as it will polish on its own when braking, but chances are there for paint getting stuck on to the pads.

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Bosny Grey Primer.

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Primed. It dries within a minute.

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Nippon Pylac 1000 Matt Black.

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Painted.

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Unmasked

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and cleaned the residual adhesive. Wurth Brake Cleaner is a great degreaser.

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Installed on the wheel.

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Done.

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Hello, I'm looking forward to buying a new carburettor. Between single cable and dual cable variants are there any significant differences between them other than the price and the latter having two throttle cables? Dual cable- Rs.4090, Single cable-Rs.5770. Even buying a switch assembly, grip and an additional throttle cable along with a dual cable carb, it still costs 1100 less than single cable variant. What do you recommend?
 
Thread Starter #540

deville_56

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Hello, I'm looking forward to buying a new carburettor. Between single cable and dual cable variants are there any significant differences between them other than the price and the latter having two throttle cables? Dual cable- Rs.4090, Single cable-Rs.5770. Even buying a switch assembly, grip and an additional throttle cable along with a dual cable carb, it still costs 1100 less than single cable variant. What do you recommend?
Dual cable carb is the better bet and can be used with single cable. Yamaha ditched the idea of dual cable and fitted single cable over dual-cable carb towards the end. Part number for that specific cable is 21C-F6311-300. Can use with current switch and grip and save the cost of the extra cable.

Quoting below the reply by Mr. Nikhil George of Moto Wheels, Kochi (Yamaha genuine parts distributor) for one of my FB posts regarding FZ carbs. Can be helpful to all carb FZians.

Hi, Fz & fazer 150 (both carb ones) share the same mechanicals , drive train & wheelbase. They have same carbs too, Just the cable connecting pulleys on the carb differs, so when the pulley is shorter, shorter cables are needed, when they are bigger in diameter, one would need a longer inner cable to fit properly. The different type of Acc cables, separate the carb types, i.e., first shortest cable(2008 to 2009) came with part no. 21CF631100, Next( 2009 to 2012) came with a bit longer single cable 21CF6311100, after that double cable carbs were introduced, it had 21CF631121 & 21CF6312, as first & second. After few years Yamaha ditched the double cable idea & made up a single cable to suit up the double cable option carb, it was 21CF6311300. They maintained the same till the last batch. The only confusion when buying carbs is that, the first edition carbs are discontinued from Yamaha, so one must either choose for a single cable carb(costlier) or double cable type(cheaper than single). Please don't take the above-mentioned years into consideration, I may be wrong.

Any type of queries are welcome, as long as its a healthy debate/ conversation. The presently supplied carbs have part nos:, 21CE49013000(long single cable) & 21CE490140( Double cable, but can be used as single too).
 

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