A Ford Joins My Garage: Ford Figo Petrol (1st Gen) Ownership Review


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mayankdixit

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Coolant Leak found in upper Radiator hose: Replaced.
During routine inspection I found out that there is little bit of coolant leakage at the engine side of upper radiator hose, just at the borders . Although there is no decrease in coolant level I was scared that it might worsen further as the hoses are 11years old, and they are made of rubber, you see. So I procured a new hose, and went about changing it myself.






This is the leaking hose
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seen from another angle
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Engine cover has to be removed to access the hose
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Hose lies below the cover, and can be seen as thick pipe on the right side of pic, beside the battery
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They are spark plug wires and ignition coil. This has to be removed too to access the hose
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Ignition coil removed
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Now the hose can be accessed
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Coolant getting drained was collected in a container tub
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This is the old hose
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Coolant bottle is getting empty
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Brake fluid jar
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Power steering hydraulic fluid bottle is removed to access the coolant bottle
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New hose in place
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New one installed
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New vs old
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Part no. of new hose
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New vs old
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Old vs New
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Some tools I used in DIY
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So this leak has finally been mended
IMG-20230216-WA0036.jpg
 
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Thread Starter #197

mayankdixit

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On inspecting closely the old leaking hose I was very surprised to see that there is no cut, no hole , no-nothing on the hose which can cause the leak of coolant. This thing is puzzling me that if this hose is in prefect condition and shows no degeneration, than how come the coolant was leaking ?? What am I missing ?



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Hi,
As I am from the U.K. I need more information about the year and engine model number for your Figo. The Figo is based on the U.K Fiesta. Assuming the basic 1.2 U.K. 2015 model Fiesta cam belt replacement is a fairly complicated task. You would need to be a competent DIYER, with a reasonable selection of tools including ideally the camshaft cog locking bracket. Once I have more detailed engine information I can give a more specific answer.
When it comes to removing the crankshaft sprocket bolt the easiest method for removing the bolt is to select top gear, get someone to stand on the brake pedal, use a socket and long bar to undo the crankshaft bolt. Leave the auxiliary belt/s in place until you have loosened the crankshaft bolt. You may need to heat the bolt or use an impact gun if you have one.
If we assume you have the same 1.2 petrol engine you will need the camshaft locking plate and crankshaft locking pin to refit the cambelt, there is no keyway or timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. Obviously there are a host of other parts that may need removal. Make the first job disconnecting the battery !!!
You really need to know what you are doing as this is an interference engine Valve train, valves, cylinder head and piston damage will occur if not done correctly.
Regards Neil. I have been in India since mid November and return to the U.K. 02 March, coming back in November for another 4 months.
 
Thread Starter #199

mayankdixit

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Thank you for your answer. I never expected any lesser from you. Much appreciated.
My Figo is based on Fiesta UK mark 5 model. Parts are similar. This is the first time I am listening this" standing on the brake" thing. I must confess, It sound logical too. This is definitely going to stop rotation of pulley if done correctly.
But don't you think that when huge torque is applied, some "give" can happen, meaning some slipping of brakes. Remember at that torque crankshaft is turning along with the stuck bolt despite of the unmounted belts !! Meaning that the pulley simply slips despite of the rubber belts.
I have used the DeWalt electric impact wrench rated at 440Nm. I used it for many seconds. It did absolutely nothing.
I have no intention of heating the bolt. Had it been some suspension component, then maybe, but no, not here.
How will locking the camshaft help here.? I want to lock the CRANK-SHAFT. I am scared that if I apply torque at crank bolt, and both the cams up above are locked by locking tool, I will damage something in between.

If we assume you have the same 1.2 petrol engine you will need the camshaft locking plate and crankshaft locking pin to refit the cambelt, there is no keyway or timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. Obviously there are a host of other parts that may need removal. Make the first job disconnecting the battery !!!
You really need to know what you are doing as this is an interference engine Valve train, valves, cylinder head and piston damage will occur if not done correctly.
Maybe I gave the wrong impression. I was not asking you just to know the theory or to test your knowledge. Forgive me if I sounded so.
I have already dismantled all the parts required for this job. I reached the crankshaft ,locked it by that pin. I used that locking plate above on the camshafts. I locked the engine by putting a screwdriver in the flywheel. Then I tried turning the CRANK-BOLT. No matter what it did not budge. I was really upset and scared that I might rip off the bolt head or something.I mounted evry thing back.Took out the locking pins.And the car has been running fine ever since.
But I want to give it a second try. Because timing belt is old and may snap someday. Hence the question.
 
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Thread Starter #200

mayankdixit

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You would need to be a competent DIYER, with a reasonable selection of tools including ideally the camshaft cog locking bracket
I do not have this tool as of now. I have the scale type camshaft locking plate, and the locking pin inserted in the engine from below, used to stop crank from rotating, so that crank remains at TDC.
Since I did not intend to work on the cams or to open the cam shaft pulleys, I did not buy this tool.
Also I was not sure which one of the many-many online sold tool will fit my DOHC 1.2 lit engine. Most of them are for recent models 1.6, 2.0 engines.
Can you post some pic, of the exact tool for my Figo. It will be of great help.



I need more information about the year and engine model number for your Figo.
Ford Figo 1.2 lit Duratec petrol 2011 model. First gen Figo it was called in India.
 
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I do not have this tool as of now. I have the scale type camshaft locking plate, and the locking pin inserted in the engine from below, used to stop crank from rotating, so that crank remains at TDC.
Since I did not intend to work on the cams or to open the cam shaft pulleys, I did not buy this tool.
Also I was not sure which one of the many-many online sold tool will fit my DOHC 1.2 lit engine. Most of them are for recent models 1.6, 2.0 engines.
Can you post some pic, of the exact tool for my Figo. It will be of great help.




Ford Figo 1.2 lit Duratec petrol 2011 model. First gen Figo it was called in India.
Hi,
O.K. should be Zetec 1.25 SE.
The best advice, given the age of the car, is to break off the bottom pulley cover. Then no need to do the whole "crank pulley bolt removal, free wheeling pulley, must correctly torqued" thing Attached is the complete procedure and pics of the "special tools". I am sure a man of your calibre will be able to create an external cover for the crankshaft pulley.
Regards Neil
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hi
 
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Hi,
O.K. should be Zetec 1.25 SE.
The best advice, given the age of the car, is to break off the bottom pulley cover. Then no need to do the whole "crank pulley bolt removal, free wheeling pulley, must correctly torqued" thing Attached is the complete procedure and pics of the "special tools". I am sure a man of your calibre will be able to create an external cover for the crankshaft pulley.
Regards Neil View attachment 308591 View attachment 308592 View attachment 308593 View attachment 308594 View attachment 308595 View attachment 308596 View attachment 308597 hi
Don't use the camshaft locking plate unless you have the correct crankshaft locking tool !!! Heating and cooling a stubborn crankshaft bolt is acceptable, you have to fit a new one anyway. The slight weep on the coolant hose is acceptable given its age. Visually they look o.k. however aged rubber performs differently under pressure and temperature cycles. As a short term fix you can use a screw type hose clip, they apply more force.
Regards Neil
 
Thread Starter #204

mayankdixit

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Re-read your reply. Leave the cambelt and auxiliary belts fitted and tensioned while trying to loosen the crankshaft bolt. Stand on the brakes, without the camshaft locking plate fitted.
Regards Neil
I cannot thank you enough for your above posts, and your efforts in helping me out. Joined just a week back and already hitting the ball out of the park !!

The best advice, given the age of the car, is to break off the bottom pulley cover. I am sure a man of your calibre will be able to create an external cover for the crankshaft pulley.
That should be the last most option. I love my car too much to attempt that ! Age is just a number for me. And I am not "that accomplished" to fabricate that cover later on from thin air. You are giving me too much credit.
If only Ford had designed that cover to be removable and reattach able. No timing matching nonsense, then.
 
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All things mechanical have been a passion for over 57 years. I love fixing things instead of throwing them away. Especially something with an engine. Retired 7 years ago but still working in my son's garage on the spanners 3-5 days a week. Here is a video of a project, found this sticking out of a rubbish pile. Got many of the cycle parts, including the saddle, while I was in India. Full nut and bolt restoration.
Regards Neil
 
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All things mechanical have been a passion for over 57 years. I love fixing things instead of throwing them away. Especially something with an engine. Retired 7 years ago but still working in my son's garage on the spanners 3-5 days a week. Here is a video of a project, found this sticking out of a rubbish pile. Got many of the cycle parts, including the saddle, while I was in India. Full nut and bolt restoration.
Regards Neil
Wife's car in the background, 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0ltr V6 Auto !!!!
Regards Neil
 
Thread Starter #207

mayankdixit

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love fixing things instead of throwing them away.
Exactly!! This is how it should be. Appreciate it very much.
Full nut and bolt restoration.
That is a very neat restoration. Never saw such a cycle in real. Is this thing still here in India? Or you restored it there itself?
 
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Thread Starter #209

mayankdixit

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No,
All done in the U.K. Only have enough tools to work on my gen.1 Suzuki Access 125 scooter here in India. Lost my tool kit during covid. Everything I had was stolen. TV, tool kits, cooker,utensils,pots, pans,linen,clothing, fishing tackle etc etc.
Regards Neil
Sorry to hear about your experience.
Please post some pics of your rides. That would be nice.
 
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Sorry to hear about your experience.
Please post some pics of your rides. That would be nice.
Hi,
I only have pictures of one bike on my tablet, I will probably post the rest in
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the 2 wheeler section when I get back to the UK. But this is my favourite Honda Valkyrie 1998 flat 6 boxer 1520cc, rear wheel 100HP, rear wheel Torque 139nm. Slightly modified imported from USA. 6 carbs (re-jetted), 6 cylinders (true boxer not just flat 6), 6 seperate straight through exhausts (Cobra 6 pack).
Racks fitted to carry 3 hard cases, seperate seats for comfort. Adjustable back rest for rider, back and arm rests for the pillion. Last big ride out was U.K, France, Portugal, Andora, Spain some touring and then home again. We covered 1,140km in one day with full luggage cruising at 130 kmh. All up "wet" cruising weight 487kg, dry weight 310kg.
Following recent hip and knee problems and a broken leg I am now struggling to handle the bike while trying to move it from 0 to 5kmh. Aged 67, and needing something lighter I have bought a 2004 Yamaha XT600e air cooled 4 stroke single (600cc) Trail bike, 170kg wet. Not ready to give up riding yet.
Obviously the Valkyrie is a cruiser, but nothing like a Harley. This bike is fast and corners really well. Absolutely no engine vibration. It sounds like a Ferrari when you give it the "beans". I can balance a £1 coin on the cam cover, start the engine and rev it to 5,000 rpm and the coin just stays there. Got a video clip somewhere.
0_60kmh 2 sec
0-100kmh 4sec.
0-125kmh 6sec
0-145kmh 8sec
0_200kmh (top speed) 32sec
Previous bike was a 1978 Honda CBX 1000Z, DOHC, 24 valve, 1052cc, 6 carbs, 6 straight through exhausts (also sounded like a Ferrari :-). Got a bit of a theme going here.
Regards Neil
 

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