Royal Rajasthan: A Travelogue


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Well to begin with, I must say that writing a Travelogue has long been a wish that I wanted to fulfill, after each trip I felt like doing one but the fear of non fluidity of my language & jotting down skills prevented me from doing so. It is then that the Automotive India membership happened & while going thru one of the Innumerable travelogues of the travelogue infested Site I suddenly found some motivation to do one. So here I am trying to fulfill that wish of mine in coming days. Like many a seasoned travelogue publisher Today I wish to start just with some snippets of the last trip as a teaser & hope to complete the journey in the coming few days with some encouragement from my new found Travel loving, Automobile loving Friends & Brothers. Here go the snippets in random order
 

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Re: Royal Rajasthan

Well to begin with, I must say that writing a Travelogue has long been a wish that I wanted to fulfill, after each trip I felt like doing one but the fear of non fluidity of my language & jotting down skills prevented me from doing so. It is then that the Automotive India membership happened & while going thru one of the Innumerable travelogues of the travelogue infested Site I suddenly found some motivation to do one. So here I am trying to fulfill that wish of mine in coming days. Like many a seasoned travelogue publisher Today I wish to start just with some snippets of the last trip as a teaser & hope to complete the journey in the coming few days with some encouragement from my new found Travel loving, Automobile loving Friends & Brothers. Here go the snippets in random order

Lovely start Daring Deb

That's the spirit - keep going

Just keep it in mind - when you are starting your trip from WB to RJ in the night, the light from your car head light will not cover the entire stretch at once, but as you go you will have sufficient lighting and that will guide you all the way. The travelogue is also similar...
 

bhvm

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Re: Royal Rajasthan

Wow.
You really made those past memories alive. I can already recognize Kumbhalgadh.
Keep it coming bro!
 
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Re: Royal Rajasthan

I had always dreamt about doing a Rajasthan trip by Car, Many factors can be stated 1)The planning always included The Longewal Battlefield where in the brave soldiers fought valiantly with the Pakistanis in 1971 (later on this inspired the film Border). 2)I have been to Tawang memorial in the East & wanted to complete the Jaisalmer memorial there in West . 3) like many many Bengali boys me too grew up reading amar chitra katha comics & watching the Sonar kella film umpteen no of times to ignite enough flames for a rajasthan trip.
As expected the reactions from different quarters have always been “are you MAD ?” to “You ARE mad” & outright rebuke from Parents with just a crisp “Don’t do it” But my imagination of kings, kingdoms,wars, bravery , Feluda, Mondar bose , Jatayu (from sonar kella film)had already a world which I could no longer be able to neglect, I had made up my mind to go solo if no one came with me. Fortunately Wifey was very supportive this time around. Well I lured her into it saying that its not just rajasthan , we stop enroute & those places are Varanasi & Agra with which comes the bonus that she could not resist ie The Tajmahal & not to forget A Benarasi saree waiting for her at some counters in benaras.
My idea was simple I get to take a very Long Drive while fulfilling a long cherished dream while at the same time If I can pull this out with my family, in future No distance will seem too far & I can coax them to many places which still resides in my Bucket list.
The preparation had already been done by me for quite some time , I had my checklist of to do things in place & all I needed was latest updates on road conditions after finalizing the dates. I got down to my task around October end.
2/3 Hotels per city were shortlisted, made sure to call them up to confirm parking facilities since in places like old Jodhpur city, ghats around Varanasi this was supposed to be a problem.
Essentials were made ready ranging from Print out of Route maps of the 5000km long journey planned, Tow rope, coolant, brake oil , Tyre inflator Torch etc. I just needed to fit a carrier as we were 6 persons including my son & luggage space was an issue. All set & done I was raring to go when The World came crashing 2 days prior to our departure , The DEMONETISATION saga unfolded on 8th Nov Evening ( We were leaving on 11th Morning).[frustration]
The ATM’s were going kaput, the banks were supposed to be closed for 3 days, My currency would be accepted only till 14th (which was declared initially). There was mayhem in my world of dreams, Ran to the nearest ATM fetched some 4800 Bucks punching my cards for 400 Rs each time before the swelling crowd started giving me a piece of their mind to move aside. Wife was doing the same thing somewhere else. I thought for a second Here we Go boy what a Start!. But then I was on war path, this time turning back was not an option at all. Managed a bundle of 100’s from the local Rice wholesale vendor next morning, My kid contributed 1000 from his kitty (The small man felt big to help out Daddy) Tanked up on 10th Night with the then valid currency while keeping some aside as upto 14th Night they could be used in pumps.

It is said that there is a silver lining to everything, for my part the exchange of currency exercise led to Free Rides across the breadth of India without paying any toll tax from 11th to 22nd Nov. Yipeeee.[:D] My wife was sad though , her hidden kitty lay exposed to me as she opens up with her reserve stock for the exchange exercise when we are back. Hmmmm. Baby ko cash pasand hai.
Finally we were up & hit the road on 11th Nov 4.30 in the morning.

The Plan
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Day 1.
The day started well on very well until the drama unfolded in the afternoon as we reached near the Bihar –UP border. We took Kona expressway - NH2 & made it to Topchanchi Shaan E Punjab Hotel around 10 A.M when we took our first break of the day.

The going was smooth & I was confident that we will be making it to Varanasi around 5 which will enable us to watch the Ganga arati which can be followed by the darshan of baba Vishwanath.

Around Mohania the first ominous sign breaks out, Suddenly while taking a Diversion there is a sliding sound overhead. Immediately stopped the car, came out to take a look & I find that the carrier has slid perilously close to the windshield , partially twisting the antennae forward. On closer inspection the antennae is not damaged but the carrier has become quite loose from the clamps as four of us are able to pull it back to its original position after bit of force exertion, The diversion being very dusty made our life a bit difficult, vowed to drive carefully to Varanasi where we can attend to it peacefully.

As soon as we reach around 10 kms from the border the second surprise. There is this jam before the check post which has completely brought the onward lane to a standstill ( I was expecting it anyway but not of some 10 kms length) . The down lane was slowly being filled up with small medium large all sorts of vehicles when we joined the fray knowing fully well that this might take ages to resume some sort of normalcy. As we inched forward the downward lane became a 3 lane road with 2 lanes on both sides catering to cars towards Varanasi keeping the middle path open to opposite direction traffic. This was bound to create problems, which it did. IMG_20161111_155900.jpg IMG_20161111_155928.jpg

I was also damn afraid that the large trucks with that kind of a load awkwardly placed will scratch my car inadvertently. on top of it my Carrier was again slowly slipping as seen here & has come towards the antennae albeit the earlier correction.

After an agonizing hour some local fellows directed us to take a right cutting which takes us to a road under construction which in turn will carry us across the border. The catch however was we need to cross unmanned railway crossings twice on detour path & back to highway path. With no choice available some 100 cars made the turn , within minutes there was dust & only dust, all blinkers on, I could not see even 5 metres ahead with headlamp & Fog lamp. The convoy moved along dusty bumpy up-down tracks for 7 kms & Lo a log jam , some local cars on opposite route brings the convoy to a halt. Another half an hour later the local cars relegated to a side, the convoy now waits for the railway gate crossing exercise 2nd time around. Needless to say the Arati has gone for a toss but I was worried (with the sun setting) to come out of this mess & be on the highway , Jam or no jam concrete roads I was craving for. Could not even take a look at my beloved PRINCE which was coated with dust, sand, mud & god knows what.
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The traffic jam on the highway on the other side of the rail line still persisted as seen here if you can make out.
Finally gods have mercy , A goods train then a passenger train passes by letting the convoy move again. By the time we make it to the highway through another set of small alleys & traverse the downward highway for another 2 kms to cross over, all I had in mind was TEA. It was 5 30 P.M I pulled aside to have a cup of tea to rejuvenate myself & take a much longed for smoking break. Thereafter carried on with a heavy heart to Varanasi. I still had to negotiate the Varanasi traffic hence booked up Hotel dwarika which was closer to the highway but not the ghats or markets. I missed the arati , wifey missed her benarasi saree buying chance but then we promised ourselves to make amends when we return around 21st.

Reached Varanasi Hotel around 8 p.m , took a grand shower, Veg thali meal & hit the bed . Agra calling the next day.

Day 1 thus ended with stats like
Kolkata to Varanasi
Total Distance 670 kms,
Time 4.30 AM to 7.30PM (15 hours with total 50 mins break)

Day 2
Always followed the rule of doing the tough part of any job at the beginning so as to have it easy & tension free later on. My Rajasthan trip ironically lived upto it by coincidence. We had such a tough first day that all other days seemed a cakewalk when compared to what we rode over on the first day.
Agra was in sight according to plan on day 2. I wanted to leave early just as I do in every long drive days, this time though the carrier needed some attention & PRINCE needed a thorough wash. Completed both from 6 am to 7 am. By 7.30 we were on board & reached the highway in 15 mins time.
Extra motivation to drive this day came from the fact that we were to take the Allahabad bypass which many friends seem to go gaga when we discuss long drives & I couldn’t wait to reach it.
One hour into the drive we stopped for breakfast, checked the carrier, was satisfied that it was holding up well & moved on to take the bypass, The bypass didn’t disappoint , well sort of , this was probably the best stretch of road that I have driven in the trip but then Rajasthan had such nice roads that this will not seem out of the world in comparison, Good roads none the less .
Anyway, I leave 2 pics here for some understanding, it offcourse felt at times that I was in a cockpit, ready to take off.
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The elevated bypass over Kanpur has been a fantastic addition to the Kolkata delhi route & in no time around 1 in the afternoon we were in Rania for a small break.Here I tanked up for the rest of the journey.The road from Kanpur to Agra is a joy again to drive on, superb 8 lane highway at times & we wouldn’t have made it to Agra in 5 hrs time if not for it which again to mention was after a bit of snarl & slow moving traffic at Firozabad sikhokhabad sectors that ate up almost an hour at the least.
By 6.30 we reached Agra .

After two consecutive days of 600+km driving the body felt a bit sore but then the excitement of the real vacation beginning from here onwards lifted every ones spirit& to top it up, The Taj was just 500 mtrs away so off we went for sightseeing cab booking as I wanted a full day rest to enjoy Taj,Agra Fort & Fatehpur sikri.

Day 2 thus ended with stats like

Varanasi to Agra
Total Distance 610 kms,
Time 7.30 AM to 6.30PM (11 hours with 2 breaks around 1 hour totally)

Day 3

We started early , as is my dictat always try to be the early bird, having witnessed the mega crowd at Taj twice before, I knew if we were to enjoy it well then you must Que up by 6 in the morning. & so we did.
The Taj looked a bit off colour to me, specifically because I am lucky to have seen it without any sort of scaffolding the earlier 2 times & it does look sore in the eyes, they are planning to cover the main dome too from March I believe for god knows how many months, but she really needs that upliftment, looked much yellowish than when I had seen it last 2004.
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After Completing Taj we decided to finish up Fatehpur Sikri so that we could be back by noon to go around Agra fort & the city. We were to pass by fatehpur next day anyway enroute chittorgarh but it meant we reach there by 6 in the morning & if it takes 3 hours to roam around nicely that would stretch my driving later on since I was determined to catch the Light & Sound show at Chittor fort the same day.
Anyways we come to that Later.

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This is where Akbar held his Rajsabha if you may call , it also acted as the treasury & the nav ratans held their seats here with the central dome belonging to badsah with the common man standing below with whatever prayers they had brought for Akbar to dispense with.

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We now come to Panch mahal meant for Akbar's Queens, where each had a floor depending upon the faith they belonged to & practiced.

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Next up was the famous place Tansen & Baiju bawra played their Trades in music, Tansen would light up lamps with Raag DEEPAK while Baiju Bawra Brought Rains with MEGHMALLAR
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This was Akbar's Resting Place & boy he did live in style

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We move on to Salim Chisti's Darga Complex, The sufi saint who blessed Akbar with a much longed Son to carry the dynasty forward. People from all corners come here with Wishlists for the saint & are said to be rewarded with the same always.The One with The white Marble is the shrine Of Salim Chisti.

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Further on you have Buland darwaza touted to be as the Largest Door in Asia, snaps of the door & the adjoining terrace that caught my attention.

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This plaace is a photographers paradise but then I can't burden you with the innumerable snaps that we took, just attaching some to keep the flow going with the historical events.


After Fatehpur sikri we headed to Agra Fort , This time We didn’t take a guide just to save on change, The currency kitty was strained to adjust these cash transactions & I took upon the mantle of guiding my pack. I answered many a query & left aside many to be answered later ( not when my cash balance will be good but when my batteries of the smart phone should be full to tap onto the historical sites through brother Google to answer their queries). some snaps attached.
Deewan E Aam.
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Jahangir's Palace.
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The Fort from its Main Gate
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The View of Taj from the Shahjahan Palace where he stayed a s a prisoner & watched Taj where his beloved lay.
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The view of the fort as we were leaving.
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We all wanted to to spend some more time here at the fort & watch the Light & sound show that was to begin shortly afterwards, but then I had another Visit in my mind which was not to be missed at any cost, some 500 mts from the fort near the cantonment gate The army was guarding it like a fortress , a lone ATM that had received fresh tranches of cash in the late afternoon, the Driver of our sightseeing cab was generous enough to hold a line for us , as soon as he informed us about this thru his cell we left everything & invaded it faster than Akbar would have invaded Chittor. That reminds me that Chittor is up for next day after another 500+Km drive through Bharatpur Sanctuary, . This will be taken up next

To be continued.
 
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Re: Royal Rajasthan

Day 4
As usual After a day’s break in driving I was feeling rejuvenated & was raring to zoom down to Chittor, Everyone else were also excited about venturing into Rajasthan soon. We were supposed to take the route to chittor via Bharatpur Sanctuary – Jaipur-ajmer highway & subsequently move on to chittor. We enquired & found that the road ahead was very good which was a relief to me as the carrier issue was still niggling in my mind’s corner & I did not want bumpy tracks enroute.
We started from Agra around 7 am after re fueling with old currency & were scheduled for a stop around the sanctuary but it seemed the road passed by it & one has to move inside a lot to have glimpses of any kind of bird, well I didn’t want to spoil the tempo of the journey, so decided to move ahead since I was clocking decent speed so early in the morning.
The landscape soon started changing & it was mesmerizing to drive on, we stopped in couple of places unscheduled to enjoy the views unfolding slowly with the different kinds of terrain ahead. Roads were beautiful & I share some random snaps here for some kind of understanding as it is beyond words at times to describe the beauty of Indian Highways.
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Aproaching The jaipur bypass

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Took a meal stop after bypassing Jaipur city for breakfast , as decided this had to be the single food stop for the day as we had decided to make to Chittor with some buffer time since no one wanted to miss the Light –Sound show which we heard were a spectacle to witness.

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Just like The cellular jail Show it is advised that you watch the show first & then take the tour around the fort. This will already keep you a bit updated with the rich & long history of Chittor to enable one to better understand the stories, myths as narrated by a guide later on.

We reached chittorgarh Town around 4 pm & booked ourselves at a hotel opposite the RTDC guest house called Panna. The fort was 2 kms from the hotel. The receptionist suggested that we go to the fort immediately if we are not tired , to this I mentioned to him that we were running short on our cash reserves so doing this exercise means we pay for the fort tickets twice (that day & next day) which we were not willing to, but to our dismay he says You can roam around the fort without a ticket today itself if you book the Light & sound show.
Needless to say we set out in full earnest on hearing this. Chittorgarh Fort is encompassed by a more that 10km road all around & if one has a car its easily accessible that way as the autowallahs stop venturing after a certain spot. We happily heeded to this advise & set out .
The Road to the fort has 2 steep hair pin bends & one has to be carefully negotiate the same as it surprises you with the gradient.
Took some random snaps & tried to soak the historical atmosphere that presented itself in front of us.

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Like many others I didn’t take the video recording of the Light & sound show as I was too engrossed in the history narration that accompanied it, It is not possible to explain the range of moods one experiences while watching it, you find the recordings in youtube & others but then, it’s a surreal feeling in person when it unfolds before you , A chilly evening , booming baritones, wonderful narration, sound effects are enough to hold you onto your seats & you do not know when an hour or more has passed just like that.

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After having our satire for history & myth satisfied we retreated to our hotel after having booked a guide for next day.
Day 4 thus ended with stats like
Agra to Chittorgarh
Total Distance 550 kms,
Time 7 AM to 4 PM (9 hours with 5 breaks around 1 hour 30 mins totally)

Day 5
After having the brush of history knowledge the earlier day everyone was eagerly waiting for the Fort visit but we had to reload our luggage again first as it was decided that we move out from the fort directly to Jodhpur. After breakfast we headed for the fort & reached the ticket counter at 8 am where our Guide was waiting for us.

The magnificence of Chittor fort accompanied by the Rich History that it can boast of is something a lesser mortal like me will not be able to deliver with my limited stock of words. In short let us be reminded that Chittor was one of the most impregnable forts during its hay days & could be captured only thrice by enemy forces. All the 3 times The Women folks sacrificed themselves along with their children through Jauhar rather than fall into the hands of the enemy. Chittor boasted of all qualities ranging from Sacrifice, Loyality, Bravery, Divinity , et all. By the time Akbar could capture the fort what he found was the skeleton of chittor, the soul was dead, The women& family already sacrificed in flames the warriors fought with no wish to live, so much so Akbar created statues of Brave chieftains of chittor namely Jaimal & patta in his own domain when he moved back to agra.
From the beauty of Rani Padmini to the Krishna Bhakt Meera, From the bravery of Jaimal to the Sacrifice of queen karnavati chittor fascinates like no other forts in India with its History.
Enough lectures Sharing some photographs, Anyone can find the history within the all compassing world of internet these days,
First up Kumbha Palace.

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We move on to Meerabai’s temple.

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This is the place where Rani Karnavati used to bath & did so also for the last time before going onto pray in the adjoining shiva temple ,

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Then moved on to Take the plunge here performing Jauhar as chittor was imminent to fall on the hands of bahadur Shah. (the pyre was lit on the block to the right)

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Vijay Stambha or the Victory tower. This was erected by Maharan Kumbha to celebrate his victory over the invaders lead by Mahmud Khilji.

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Residence of Jaimal & Patta . now in ruins.

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While I was taking the snaps of Jaimal residence the guide offered me a small detour by foot which very few take, I was intrigued as to what extra that can show me & he said There is a point hidden behind those jungle path that gives the entire chittor fort periphery with the city backdrop. This is the spot from where the Chittor fort picture of Incredible India appears. I am grateful to him that he made me take the detour. A majestic view opened up in front of us I would have missed it had it not been for his perseverance. Mind you there was not a soul there. Other cars & autos were zooming past us when we landed back on road obviously the other guides duped or avoided this point & the tourists remain blissfully ignorant . (The person’s name was Mr Shantilal & until 2 years back served as the official guide for the palace on wheel tourists, a man with immense knowledge of entire rajputana which he willingly shared with us, not just about chittor)

This was the view.

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After a brief visit to Kali Temple which I did not photograph, we were on our way to Padmini Palace,
This Jal mahal used to be her Summer abode, the folklore goes that it is here that she stood on the first stair & her reflection fell on the waters, Allauddin Khilji was so smitten by her beauty even thru the reflection that he invaded chittor just to conquer her, but alas that was not be, The queen sacrificed herself to Jauhar & Khilji returned empty handed.

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With a heavy heart we pass by an incomplete Jain Temple.

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To lighten up the mood I felt Prince deserved a snap with it, my boy was serving me so well. Kudos to him [clap]

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Chittor fort used to or still have 7 gates , the one now used are the ones at the back of the fort, this one was the original entrance, Mark the Iron spikes that were placed in heights strategically so that one cannot force open it by using The elephant to charge at it.

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We came upto The Kirti Stambh adjoining it was another Jain temple. The art works were so impressive that One cannot resist taking some snaps. Mr Shantilal pointed out the skills of yesteryears masons, I mean look at it from the point of view that one wrong blow of hammer or chisel, you are done for, there was no fevi quick for stones, the entire structure will have to be pulled down or left alone at that stage.To top it up it can’t be the handiwork of one person, there must have been hundreds who were equally competent. The unsung heroes of our Temple architectures. A fascinating thought indeed

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We move on.

Another mansion , by this time my memory fails & I am not able to remember all.

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We bid goodbye to our guide & with fond memories & some understanding of Our rich history we move on to our next destination, Jodhpur.

To be Continued
 

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Re: Royal Rajasthan

For Jodhpur journey I had in mind to take some other route rather than go towards Udaipur as I wanted my son to get a taste of rural Indian hinterland other than Highway drives, the plan was to take state highways through Bijainagar sendra route & reach Jodhpur which will make the journey itself like another destination. We left the fort & took the highway towards Bewar .Around 1 pm found a decent Eatery alongside A reliance pump. Man wasn’t I happy that they were accepting Plastic money, soon after however you are brought back to reality, The villain being Veg Food & Cash payment thereafter. The somber mood of my son says it all

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soon after The Landscape kept on changing rapidly & gave us a feeling that we truly were in Rajasthan. I must say my decision to take state highways in between really took us to unchartered routes that we enjoyed very much

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As mentioned earlier, For a Bengali boy The childhood is defined by 2 films & their dialogues, Father & son Relished unleashing them at every opportune moment, well here was one The view inspired my son to state Baba it will get dark soon. remember Jatayu & his knowledge of Arravalli dacoits. “Sardarji? Yeh Rajasthan mein Daku hay yea Nahi Hay?” Both had a good laugh & it was comforting to see him enjoying the long rides with that kind of spirit.

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We chased the setting Sun not for the first time as you will see

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Reached Jodhpur around 8 pm. after traversing the scenic roads & at times passing right through some villages letting my son see the raw rustic rural hinterland of my glorious motherland.

Day 5 thus ended with stats like

Chittorgarh to Jodhpur
Total Distance 330 kms,
Time 1 pm to 8 pm (7 hours with 2 breaks around 1 hour totally)

Day 6

I mentioned earlier too that scarcely do you find a Bengali boy who hasn’t watched or been made to watch two films during their childhood & teenage days, Gupi Gayen Bagha Bayen & Sonal Kella. Both films shot extensively in Rajasthan had timeless dialogues being mouthed by the characters that remains forever etched in one’s mind . Jodhpur has special role in the movie Sonar Kella as it is from here that the sleuth Feluda starts his mystery solving mission once in Rajasthan. My son & myself always wanted to book ourselves in the Circuit House of Jodhpur where the drama unfolds in the film. We could not get a booking but it did not deter us from visiting the place. So the first thing that father-son duo wanted was to check out Circuit house which we have seen together on numerous occasions in the past. Mehrangarh fort could wait but visiting the circuit house could not, once up in the morning we enquired & found it on the way to Umai Bhawan Palace. The building & its corridors surprisingly remained The same as it was in the film some 40 years back! We got down to checking out our reel fantasy with our real actions. Sony boy stood where Jatayu , Mondar bose & Feluda stood & happily merged ourselves with the film that identifies our childhood. I have merged the photos of both to give you some understanding, do check them out.

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Happy & Satisfied with our mission circuit house we moved on to the nearest HDFC bank branch to draw some much needed legal currency notes. It took away almost two vital hours from our scheduled sightseeing plans but then this was a necessity which over weighed some monuments that we had to miss as a consequence.

Having the power of legal currency & some temporary peace of mind we decided to finish up Umaid Bhawan Palace round.
The Palace is said to be the largest private residence as on date & till now serves as the residence of the Jodhpur Royal family, the occupant now is The grandchild of Maharaja Umaid Singh. Part of the palace is now a Taj group hotel & visitors entry is restricted only to a part of the building that does not fall within the hotel premises. The building houses a museum & opposite to it was the Motor Garage of the Royal family. There is an array of Vintage High end cars displayed there, sadly the Glass partition with the sun rays falling directly onto it prevented me from taking pictures that I could call even of standard quality, I feasted my eyes for some time before moving on since time was at premium to us after losing two hours at the bank.

Some snaps of Umaid Bhawan Palace attached.

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A painting depicting some battle between The Rajputs & Moghul Forces with The Mehrangarh Fort at the backdrop

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We decided to take Lunch break at the foothill of the small hilltop that housed the imposing Mehrangarh Fort . After Lunch we wanted to cover the Fort, Jaswant Thada & Mandore Gardens.

To be Continued
 

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Re: Royal Rajasthan

Truly an amazing travelogue...

and awesome pictures too!

Waiting for the continuation...
 
Thread Starter #11
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Re: Royal Rajasthan

Truly an amazing travelogue...

and awesome pictures too!

Waiting for the continuation...
Sir, Thank you for the encouragement. it really feels special to be appreciated from a special senior member like you, have been following tour travelogues too, you are too good..
 
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As you ride upto the parking lot of Mehrangarh fort taking a narrow road first thing that comes to your mind when you see the fort from a distance is “ Wow, This is HUGE. The guide tells you that Rudyard kipling called it as Work of Giants , what I found in the net was that Kipling had something else also to say about it. Mehrangarh Fort “A palace that might have been built by titans & colored by the morning Sun”. True to these words The fort really looks Huge & invincible as you approach it.Must have been built by Titans.

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There is a proto type of the floor as you enter it through its gate

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The fort is made of Red sand stone & was built in the 15th Century by Rao jodha. Apart from specific history details what stands out is the Armory gallery which has in its collection the sword Of Akbar & Timur Lang. There are some royal gold & siver plated Howdas (the sit perched on top of Elephants) & palanquins , paintings canons , coins spears & knives of different kinds/sizes on display

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The Fort is really maintained very well unlike The chittor fort. & one of the reasons that is a hot spot for film locations, As you look around you are mightily impressed that they have preserved the fort so efficiently.

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There are mahals Like Moti Mahal & Siish mahal which are truly gorgeous, It is said that Lord Curzon took away the emeralds , rubies & other valuable stones from these mahals during the british Rule.

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As you move on You find yourself looking down at the Old Jodhpur city with a blue tinge all around, You are told that Jodhpur is called the blue city, as like Jaipur which is Pink city & Jaisalmer will be Golden city when we climb up that fort later. Whatever, here is the view of the Old City with the fort wall at the backdrop in some places.

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We move up to the Canon area, Canons of various size & types strategically put up to resist enemy advancement, today the new city falls under its range.

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One can view The Jaswant Thada Complex from The Mehrangarh fort complex itself, we were informed by the guide that this was a memorial palace of cenotaphs or chattri as they are called . Chattris are built in memory of some one, this was built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh, presently it also has 3 other chattris of the royal family,
We visited the place as it was close by & had a small water body adjoining the cenotaphs.

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Clicked Mehrangarh fort from the garden there & it really was a view to watch out for.

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We had to hurry as we did not want to miss out Mandore Garden or Mandore ancient city as one may call. (the final tickets are issued at 5pm) This was the city that was earlier the capital of Jodhpur aka erstwhile Marwar. The area is literally treasure trove for tourists; Monuments, Temples, Cenotaphs, Museum, gardens, name it all. you have museums housing very ancient artefacts , stone carvings dated back to some 7th 8th century (photography was not allowed in there) Fascinating Cenotaphs or chattris built in memory of royal members, An old Fort in ruins, Temples housing different deities . All in one magnificent complex, Photographs really do no justice to the grandeur of the earlier kingdom as one has to walk around to feel the pulsating nature all around.

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We were halfway through our Vacation/ Trip as we completed Jodhpur, but the excitement level was going to rise up a notch next day as we were scheduled to reach Jaisalmer next, The road for which were to take us through Real kind of desert , through places like Pokhran known for the nuclear experiment site, up ahead was also Jaisalmer war memorial which I was looking forward to. Over & above The Sonar Kella calling & father-son duo just can’t wait to put real actions against reel fantasy to test the next day.

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To be continued
 

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Thread Starter #13
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Day 7

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We started day 7 with high hopes of getting into real desert territory enroute Jaisalmer, everyone has been patiently waiting to have the feel of Sand dunes, Camels & viewing wide open vast stretches of land just like they had in their imagination before embarking on Rajasthan trip. The plan was to go via pokhran & ramdeora as I mentioned earlier The “sonar Kella ‘ connect was nearing its destination & the dialogues of the film seemed to be playing in my son & my mind,” Ek Taxi Jaisalmer & back-Jaldi.” Or say in a desolate stretch when the car tyre is force punctured & the little assistant come running after a recce around to say,”Ghor, Gram Kichchu nei, Rail line tao hawa hoye gechey” ( there are no signs of either a house or Village nearby & the rail line also seems to have vanished). Ultimately the Group take a camel ride to Ramdeora to reach Jaisalmer via Pokhran.
So much for the story that everyone knows, fortunately we didn’t face any such hazards but the terrain changed dramatically within an hour of leaving Jodhpur, sometime after Jodhpur The surroundings were a mix of Sand & some vegetation which gave a nice contrast to the Landscape The following link might be better to explain things.

https://youtu.be/glR1Wc_xXMs

Somewhere in between we find this long colourful que of women lining up in front of the bank, & we could feel the pain as we had done the same the earlier day in Jodhpur, One thing was a bit helpful that in Rajasthan they have separate lines for ladies in most places which helped our cause in jodhpur as wifey lined up for us there to make things a bit faster, The fun of diversity in my country you may say

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We also spot this gentleman riding his tractor & my son commented baba the men looks so macho here. Remember Jatayu in the film ( there we go again)with his small frame commenting, that the place must have some effect on your physique as today I feel so strong & macho that I challenged the hotel manager for a bout of Hand wrestling which the guy denied. Anyway here is the snap of the Gentleman & the film shot to go with the picture, my son insists me to share this, Please excuse his teenage exuberance

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As we Move along, The sight of Camels & Peacocks welcome us by the roadside, however the peacock is elusive when it comes to taking snaps , Son manages to click some camels & again goes back to his Sonar kella fantasy ride where it is enquired that if camels eat thorny bush then do they pluck the thorns & separate it first ( my bong friends might relate to the film but yes, it is difficult for others to identify the same way, but then this film was part of our motivation since childhood to take up Rajasthan voyage) kindly excuse.

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We were scheduled to stop by a place called Dechu after Pokhran, the place had a good Restaurant as informed by a friend from Jaipur, the joint was called The Thar midway & it nestled right beside a sand dune hillock which one could explore if they wished to, However we were so smitten by the changing nature of the Route that we were taking lot of unscheduled stops even before that. On one such occasion we found a car taking a left cutting from the highway to climb a small sand hill, it seemed headed to a desolate village, needless to say we followed. Soon we found ourselves in midst of deserted land & it was only 5 mins from the highway. The group got down & started soaking itself in such a surprising gif in the form of deserted sand dunes & a desolate village route. Some snaps & a link to the uncharted route.

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https://youtu.be/Bf2sT81gQUs

https://youtu.be/R6QDkKN4YYo

Soon it was time to move ahead again but the fun wasn’t over yet, we stopped by the Thar Midway joint for Lunch & after ordering the food Father son duo again went playing Bedouin by the sand dune just beside the restaurant

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After finishing lunch We moved on to The Jaisalmer War memorial. The was memorial is a very recent addition to the circuit & is impeccably maintained as usual, the catch was they had a small audiovisual complex where visitors can watch a 35 min movie made to celebrate the 1965 war victory over Pakistan.
After watching the movie we went through the amazing display of Tanks, & weapons used in the wars , There was a museum consisting of rare photographs & graphical representation of many out posts of the army, I have been to Tawang & other memorials in the east & it was a long nurtured dream to complete the Lungwala memorial (which was coming up next day) & this newly built one. Father son duo -Mission fulfilled until We draw up the next wish list of army memorials. Till then have a look at the snaps taken.

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This to me was a special photograph as the gentleman standing 2nd from left was an ex-student of my school in kurseong & we also took great pride in that. The recently departed Gen Jacob. Who had played a very important role in the 1971 war which led to formation of Bangladesh

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Gentlemen, I have arrived and there will be no withdrawal without written orders & these orders shall never be issued. Lt Gen Sam Manekshaw with another one of his gems.

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Finally before bidding goodbye I made it a point to put up a few words in the Memorial board . I have done it in Jaswantgarh (Arunachal) & it felt very nice to do the same here too.

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As the shadows lengthened over the Memorial & Desert it was time to say goodbye & move on to Jaisalmer. It is not yet finished we remind ourselves , tomorrow will be of further excitement as we cut across the Desert & reach the Border to see another memorial beside a real battlefield that is filled with exemplary courage shown by our soldiers once upon a time not in the very distant past.

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Another Day well spent, another day we chased the setting Sun, Another day awaits tomorrow, Jaisalmer here we come.
 
Thread Starter #14
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Location
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Day 8

The Golden Fort true to its name shining bright in the morning sun welcomed us first thing in the morning as we stepped out of the hotel for breakfast.

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After a very early breakfast as the city was waking up from its sleep We were off to our much awaited destination Tanot mata mandir & Lungewala battlefield. The earlier plan was to include Desert National park in the itinerary but then the road to Lungewal almost passed through Landscapes & surroundings just like the National park albeit without the Govt watch & guard so we skipped it. It is not easy to cover so many places that are on offer in Rajasthan We all knew that we will return soon enough for another sojourn

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The Road , its surroundings & absolute absence of any kinds of vehicles other than the stray Army trucks made this a memorable journey, The Scenario all around was breathtaking to say the least , in places one could see miles after miles of barren Land & the snake like road winding through it with visibility of more than 3or 4 kms road ahead at all times. The terrain is extremely well maintained since it goes to a very sensitive border area which has seen numerous infiltrations as well as not to forget large scale War.during 65 & 71.

We got down from the car many times as we couldn’t resist taking snaps on such a deserted highway with such harsh but in a way very beautiful terrain. Please do watch the links that I am sharing to get a feel of the terrain.


https://youtu.be/sJlGF2h2ZwI

https://youtu.be/dw3XkeFCSJs


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As mentioned we were giving Desert national park a miss this time, however the road bestowed us & my son specially with the sighting of the elusive chinkara enroute Tanot mata Mnadir. My boy did well to capture it both in video & snap shots. I started shouting in excitement, Deer, Deer Nilgai, which caused much fun later on as the nilgai was nowhere to be seen & the group had a good laugh at my cost. That it was not so easy to bring my PRINCE to a stop pin pointedly so soon from around 130+ speed went un noticed & un appreciated . anyways a view for some seconds & two three hop stop jump the Chinkara vanished , with its camouflage so perfectly blending with the desert it was a piece of cake.


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Do watch the video link that my son did well to zoom into so suddenly. [clap]


https://youtu.be/cVC5DbSOJ9s

We pass by the side of a very picturesque Village called Ranau & take some more snap shots, This was the only & also the Last village on the route to Pakistan border. One wonders how difficult it is to commute from here to say even jaisalmer with just TWO bus services daily as we found later

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We reach tanot mata Mandir shortly. There is good presence of Army personnel here naturally with it being so close to the border. We are informed about Mata’s chamatkar as to how none of the shells/bombs targeted at this place didn’t activate leaving the temple premises with complete sanctity.

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There was a very narrow metal road leading to Lungewala battlefield from Tanot. To the right of the desolate road there were small alleys bisecting the Sand dunes & going on to the border which one can overlook if they stand atop the hills, these roads had level crossing type guard rails for non entry of civilian cars & we were asked to identify ourselves at two points about the purpose of our visit. In one such encounter the soldier asks me “yeh toh bangal ka gari dikhti hay’ itna dur aye gari lekey? Pagal ho. ( this looks like a car from Bengal, you have come so far, You Mad?). my wife informed them that I was indeed a bit cracked up. Jokes apart the soldiers were pleased to see a countrymen taking pains to come & pay homage at Lungewala border that seldom tourists pay a visit moving out of their comfort zone of Jaisalmer & Sonar kell etc etc. I remain very pleased with such affectionate banter from heroes of our nation. Even in the morning sun of November the place was already quite hot & one can only imagine what goes on in April-May, to stay on guard with that uniform & Machine, to remain ever so alert without flinching an eye lid is some kind of perseverance that we can’t imagine easily. A big Cheer for our heroes lurking in the shadows.

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Just as we started the journey & took a snap of one army bunker in such harsh conditions I found that in my excitement of this visit I have completely overlooked my Fuel indicator. The light was on beside the end mark, Lungewala was 30 kms away through a desolate road & another 43 kms from there on was the first Petrol pump enroute Jaisalmer. I was not sure how many km I could travel with the fuel light indicator glowing in front of me, but had no other option other than moving ahead.
We reach Lungewala & the Army men assures me of help if I get struck in between Lungewala & the first petrol pump. Since only army vehicles ply generally on that route chances were that if You get struck we will bail you out , No worries, we believe you can make it anyway. Well Just make it anyway. With that The Jawan gave me a pat on the back & directed me towards the memorial that I long dreamt of reaching with my Family & Prince.
As known to most of us, The Lungewala battlefield witnessed a fierce battle between Our forces& Pakistanis that dared to encroach our territory on that fateful night of December in 1971. The battle has inspired films like BORDER & the memorial is a wonderful yet grim reminder to the War. Let the pictures do the talking on behalf of our brave soldiers.
 

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Thread Starter #15
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As we return, I am a very tensed man until I refill & so there were no stops on the yet again wonderful stretch of roads & landscape from Lungewala to Jaisalmer. I get to refill at Ramgarh, which once again the man from the station says is the LAST one after Jaisalmer towards the west bound highways leading to the border.
With that small consolation after a very tensed last 2 hours I start returning to Jaisalmer after a wonderfully spent morning at Rajasthan, My mission to reach the western border incising almost the widest breadth of India has been fulfilled.

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We come back to Jaisalmer & move onto see the Golden Fort or Sonal kella to most Bongs. The hotel that we were put up had a beautiful Rooftop View of the Fort , While taking our Lunch we finish our customary photo shoot with the fort giving a majestic backdrop.

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Lunch over we are accompanied by our friendly guide to the Golden Fort. As the guide narrates the by now very mundane historical stories & facts most of us get clicking. (we are too over burdened with history, dates & all sorts of accessories that a fort carries with it, its been forts, forts & forts for the last five days). Ok just for the sake of narration here’s what Wikipedia says.
Jaisalmer Fort is one of the largest fully preserved fortified cities in the world. It is situated in the city of Jaisalmer, in theIndian state of Rajasthan. It is a World Heritage Site. It was built in 1156 AD by the Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal, from whom it derives its name. The fort stands amidst the sandy expanse of the great Thar Desert, on Trikuta Hill. Before the days of theBritish Raj, the fortress city served as a refuge and way-station for caravans and travelers along the Silk Road. It's ramparts served as the backdrop for many battles in past centuries when the Silk Road still served as one of the main trade routes between East and West.

Here’s what Bengalis say,Sonar kella is the fort whwere Mukul was born in his earlier life, The bad men kidnapped him so that he can lead them to the treasure , Feluda followed in pursuit to stop the crooks from getting to it with the help of jatayu & it all climaxed in SonarKella.. Ok sorry for this, but this is the last time that I mention the film, pardon me. We just can’t get Sonar kella out of our systems. According to our guide Jaisalmer made its name as a tourist place only after 1974 when Satyajit ray made a film revolving around the Fort terming it as Sonar Kella, later on the foreigners rechristened it as Golden Fort & the popularity since then has only gone northward. The Bengalis comprise of 70% of all tourists in Jaisalmer & if not for them Jaisalmer would have never made it to a top destination & would have remained a place with its all hardships associated as a place people go to die. “Ja saaley mar” ( Go to bloody death).

Enough introductions Now to the Fort.

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As you move upto the highest point of the Fort & the tallest palace within the complex you are greeted with Wonderful view of the City in front of you, The term Golden City associated with Jaisalmer very much comes into evidence here with Buildings made in Yellow Lime stone all around as far as one can see lending it a surreal golden touch. Other than the Wind turbines All you see is filled with a yellowish tinge.

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We find all sorts of Vendors selling varied items & even got me confused. Here is a sample of the Bed sheet shop with its display & the unique usp on offer to sale the sheets catches your eye.

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Too many too choose from? , oh the dilemma!.

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We bid goodbye to the fort after almost 3 hours with some parting shots.

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The most exciting part of the desert visit was coming up & my sonny boy was getting restless. We take a ride on Prince , some 40 kms from Jaisalmer we are welcomed by our host @ sam dunes.

What follows is good enough adventure but not that exciting to be remembered for long. To start with The Jeep safari does provide some adrenalin rush but it is too little for too short a time & the drivers are more interested to pass you onto the local camel ride providers, tea shop owners offering beer & lousy cultural shows to speak of.
Sonny boy takes a camel ride as we sip on some tea, There is too much sand blowing around with the jeeps running helter skelter, We take a few snaps after our Jeep safari & decide to move on as the sun starts to go down.


http://https://youtu.be/AIwpvyOY8kY


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After returning from Sam dunes Wife decides to go for Shopping & I go up to the Rooftop Restaurant to have a chilled out evening & start bookings for my return via Jaipur the next day.

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