One Divine Trip!


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I am not best writer but tried to pen down experience and information which may help others while planning / commuting on these routes. Most of the peoples may have done this route earlier but I was the one who has done this for first time. Please bear with photographs as all of them are clicked by my better half [:D]

In this travelogue I have mentioned some lines in Marathi and given its description in English just below it.

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Jau devachiya gava! Gheu tethichi visava !!
(Let's go to God's village and take rest there)


It was Diwali and I was on leave for the festival. I thought of visiting temples which were on my list for long time. Told this thought to wife and she also agreed for it. The plan was to visit Siddheshwar Temple, Akkalkot, Ganagapur, Tuljapur and Pandharpur
There was my 8 years son along with us so we planned to halt at Ganagapur on first day and Pandharpur on second day.

The phase of packing started, I checked oil levels, tyre pressure, spare wheel in the car. We loaded all the bags into boot of my Grand i10 and started our journey on wee hours of 13th November 2015 from Hadapsar, Pune.

As we started early in the morning there was no traffic and I could reach Theur Phata which is almost 15KM from my home within 12 mins. Loved the morning breeze all the way on NH9. After crossing Yavat we had breakfast at “Vittal Kamat” and headed towards Solapur

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On the way we captured few pictures of rising sun.

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The road condition of Pune – Solapur highway is excellent. One can maintain 80-90 Kmph safetly on it. There are no undulation anywhere and its 4 lane road up to Tembhurni. There is traffic chaos at Tembhurni for almost 8 Kms then again the road converts back to 4 lane.

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Thread Starter #2
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We took exit on NH9 towards Solapur city. There is mad traffic inside Solapur where the small roads and vehicles parked on both side are challenge in itself. We reached Siddheshwar temple safely which was our first destination.

Siddheshwar Mandir
(Om Namah Shivay)

The temple is picturesque as it is situated in the middle of the lake with a backdrop of fort named “Bhuikot Killa” looming behind it. There is a story behind this temple which says that this temple was built by a yogi, Shri Siddharameshwar, who was a devotee of Sri Mallikajuna of Srisailam. He was on his way to Srisailam, when he was ordered by his guru to return to Solapur and consecrate many Shiva lingams. He duly returned to Solapur and began his work, starting from this temple. It is believed that Sri Siddharameshwar dug the lake himself, when all the holy rivers came and asked for permission to reside in the lake, thus making it sacred.

You can see glimpse of fort named “Bhuikot Killa” in this photo
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The temple is surrounded by lake as seen in this photo
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Main entrance of Siddeshwar temple
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Due to Diwali festival there was huge rangoli spread inside the temple
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Shiv Yog Samadhi inside temple.
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Our second destination for that day was Akkalkot. I was confused in the networked lanes inside Solapur city, hence started asking to rickshaws and locals for the road towards Akkalkot. Thankfully, I saw one Yatra jeep going towards Akkalkot and started following him until I exited Solapur city.

The road from Solapur to Akkalkot is single lane and you need to be cautious while driving as there are few trucks and bikers stuck to the middle of road making you to properly plan your overtakes. The road is also somewhat patchy which restricts the speed.

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We sedately driven our Grand and reached Akkalkot safely.

Akkalkot
“Anantkoti Brahmand Nayak Shree Swami Samarth Maharaj”

Akkalkot is a small town about 45 kms from Solapur, known mainly as the place where the renowned saint Swami Samarth attained Samadhi (left his mortal body). He is believed to be an incarnation of Shri Dattatreya the name of this spiritual master, popularly called Swami Samarth, is a household word in Maharashtra and the region around. He is also known as the Maharaj of Akkalkot.

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There is a huge parking near “Yatri Niwas” where the entry fee of Rs.30 has to be paid. Be cautious while you enter into this parking as there are many elders, children’s and peoples walking in middle of road who are visiting “Anna Chattra” (lunch) after darshan. Also the people coming out of parking also join same road.

We headed inside the temple and took darshan. Photography is not allowed inside the temple. After taking darshan we headed towards “Anna Chattra”, there was long queue for entering inside hence, decided to take lunch outside somewhere. Just while coming out of mandir you will find “Samarth Uphargruha” in temple premises towards the left side, here there is almost no crowd and you can get some snacks item to kill hunger.

Now something a little different. If one is accompanied by kids, as we were, they usually get bored visiting temples and ashrams all the time. Akkalkot offers something for them too! It’s known as “Akkalkot Palace” which is located at approximate 1 Km from the main temple. It’s a famous place hence you can ask for directions to any locals and they will help you.

There is open ground ahead of palace where you can park your vehicle free of charge. Akkalkot Palace has been converted to a museum by the royal family, who reside at Pune. The museum houses their personal collection of weapons, ranging from small daggers and knives to the early firearms. As collections go, it is an impressive one. The current king has also displayed his extensive collection of car models and also models of various kinds of dogs (it looks as if a childhood collection of toys has grown into that of a professional collector). You need to take ticket of Rs.10 per person as entry to this museum, it takes almost an hour to see this museum properly.
 
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Akkalkot Palace

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Palace pic with your truly [:)]
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Step way to museum
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Though photography is not allowed inside but looking at this collection I could not stop and swiftly clicked one :stupid:
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All in all, Akkalkot is worth a visit, whether or not one is spiritually inclined.

Our next plan was to reach Ganagapur before it gets dark. I was little bit tensed as many colleagues have told me about dreadful road condition there and secondly I will be crossing Maharashtra border and entering into Karnataka. In such situation I suddenly remembered Swami Samarth used to tell “Bhiu Nakos! Mi Tujhya Patishi Aahe !!” means “Don’t be afraid, I am always with you”

Taking his command into myself I cranked my Grand and started heading towards Ganagapur.

After moving out from Akkalkot towards Ganagapur the road condition starts worsening. Though the roads are scenic with sugarcane fields and sunflower fields on both side but the person behind wheel will need to keep eyes fixed on road. There are huge (yes huge) craters on the road which will test all your suspensions, tyres and ground clearance. You need to drive very very slow in this patch, even at speed less than 5Kmph I have scrapped my Grand i10’s bottom almost 4-5 times (it hurts to listen that “Khadak” sound)

Condition of roads
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After going ahead on this rough roads we came across one railway crossing. There is a small “Tapri” like hotel on both sides of railway crossing. Do remember that once you left Akkalkot then until you reach here there are no hotels or tapris for any refreshment. When we reached there, railway gate was closed hence switched off the car and came out for pit stop.

The railway gate
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There she comes whistling
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There she passes within few second roaring breaking the silence
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The gate was opened and we headed on our way towards village named “Dudhani”. This village is having sugar factory hence you have to face one more challenge in addition to worst road that is convoy of tractors carrying sugarcane and moving at snail’s pace. They won’t give you side whatever you do, hence you need to keep driving patiently behind them and search opportunity to overtake entire convoy.

The roads after Dudhani are worse (almost no road itself). Here there is opportunity to do complete off-roading for couple of kilometres. You need to cross Maharashtra border and enter into Karnataka state. The road becomes somewhat wide here but the condition is same. Check below pics.

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Few patches are under work hence you will find smooth tarmac here, but it is only one-sided hence traffic on both side try to use it. Give pass flash well before if someone is coming in your opposite lane. If you find KSRTC bus approaching then better slow down and get aside into rough patch from smooth tarmac and let the bus pass, because they will never stop for you to pass. The road is dusty as well hence if necessary then switch on your headlights (low beam).

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Fields of Sunflowers
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You need to pay Rs.20 as an entry fee in Ganagapur. There is lot of space on the road side near temple where you can park your vehicle. There is small lane from the road which will take you towards Dutta Temple

Gangapur

(Guru charni thevila bhav! Apoap bhete dev!!)
You Keep faith in guru, you will definitely meet God.


“Shri Kshetra Ganagapur” (also known as Deval Ganagapur and can be found in google map easily by writing “D.Ganagapur, Karnataka”) is very famous and holy place in India. This place was known as “Dhanpur” in old era. It stands on the bank of the river Bhima in Kalburgi district of Karnataka. This place was created on earth by “Lord Dattatreya” to stay abide in his purnavtar “Shri Nrusingh Sarswati Swami Maharaj” which is second incarnation of Lord Dattarey in Kalyug. In this village Shri Nrusingh Sarswati Swami maharaj built a “Math” (monastery) to stay in village about 600 years ago. This math is called as Nirgun Math adorned with the Nirguna Padukas and temple over it is called Dattatreya Temple. The water of the rivers Bhima and Amaraja, especially at the spot of their confluence, are considered extremely holy.

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(Vasati Rahani Sangamase Jate Nitha Bhikshese Taya Vare Ganagapurase Madhyana Kala Pareyasa)
"You need not worry. I shall stay at this Ganagapur Kshetra secretly. I shall have bath at the Bheema-Amaraja Sangam in the Early Morning. In the mid day, I shall come to Ganagapur Math and accept Bhiksha in this village and accept your Pooja, devotional services in the Form of Nirguna Padukas at the Nirgun Math. From the view point of the public, I am going away from this place. My living presence will be experienced by any one who bathes in the Bheema-Amaraja Sangam and takes darshan of my Nirgun Padukas here. I will receive Poojas at this Kshetra in the form of Nirguna Padukas”.


We had planned for staying there that night. One need not to worry about stay as there are number of decent hotels and lodges. For getting their customers these people keep standing on the road across their respective hotels and will yell as “Room….Room…Rs.xxxx” when they see outside vehicle. You can get good deal if you bargain with them.

Next day we got up early in the morning as we have planned to visit Tuljapur and Pandharpur. I have taken a panoramic view from my hotel room and we left Ganagapur around 8:30 am.

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One needs to drive again on that dreadful bumpy road and come towards Akkalkot.
My Grand i10 after completing the bumpy miles
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The road near Karnataka – Maharashtra border
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Welcome to Maharashtra
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Before leaving Ganagapur have some breakfast as there is nothing in between for at least 1-2 hrs unless that small tapri near railway crossing which I mentioned above, or else drive till Akkalkot and you can get some decent options.

Once reached at Akkalkot, you need to pass through the city and come near MSRTC Bus depot where one can find road for “Tuljapur”

Few pics clicked enroute
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Thread Starter #6
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It’s a single lane road with lot of twist and turns till you reach NH9 near Naldurg. There is almost nothing in between till you reach NH9. You need to cross NH9 and take Naldurg – Tuljapur road to reach Tuljapur. This is two lane state highway and the condition is excellent where you can maintain 80-90 Kmph constantly. You need to seriously search for decent refreshments as apart from roads and fields there is nothing. We somehow managed one “Dhabba” type hotel which has only 2-3 items with them.

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Arc of Tuljapur
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After entering through this arc one need to pay Rs.40 as entry and parking fee of Tuljapur. For parking there is dedicated ground with entry and exit, but you will find entire ground filled up with crisscross parking. Further to this you will also find vehicles moving in and out from entry as well exit. A very poorly managed place. Rather than going inside that messed puzzle I kept driving around it to see whether I can get a parking spot. There very vehicles parked on both sides of the roads making already narrow lanes more narrower. Somehow after wasting almost 20 min and driving in 1st gear I found one slot where I carefully parked my Grand and left for darshan.

Tuljapur

Dhust Daityache karuni mardan! Vachvile bhaktasi twarit yeoun !!
Mhanti "Twarita" tiyesi bhaktajan! Tich Tulja Bhavani hoo !!

(When devotee calls her she comes quickly (hence the name “Twarita”) and saves their life from “Daityas”. She is none other than goddesses “Tulja Bhavani”)


Shree Tuljabhavani mata is most revered Goddess in Maharashtra. The temple is located at Tuljapur, district Osmanabad in Maharashra. It is family godess (kuldaivata) of many families in Maharashtra and other states also. Tuljabhavani also known as 'Turja' is amongst three and half (sade teen) goddess centers (shaktipeethas) of Maharashtra. She is also fondly revered as Aai (mother) Ambabai, Jagdamba, Tukai by her devotees who throng in millions to Tuljapur for her Darshan and for seeking her blessings

The second among the 'Shaktipeeths' is Tulja Bhavani of Tuljapur. It was the family deity of the Bhosale kings. Chattrapati Shivaji always visited the temple to seek her blessings. It is believed that the Goddess gifted him a sword - 'The Bhavani Sword' - for success in his expeditions.

One can see the temple from the market itself.
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Getting closer to the gate after which photography is strictly prohibited.
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Mobile phones are not allowed inside temple hence one needs to surrender it opposite to the entrance by paying Rs.10 per piece. Though I have seen some peoples with their mobiles inside. Also one cannot predict how much time it will take for darshan, for us it took almost 3 hours.

After having darshan we left Tuljapur and around 6:00pm and joined Solapur - Auragabad state highway. Due to approaching winter season the sun sets early, hence at 6:30 pm the roads were looking like its past 9:00 pm. We drove on this two lane state highway towards NH9. The roads were having mad traffic, all time high beamers, wrong over takers and unpainted speed breakers which were mounted due to presence of villages.

Guys, please drive carefully on this road as there are lots of “Work in Progress” signs. At one moment there was “Heart in my mouth” situation when one Indica was coming from opposite side (overtaking) some truck and came in front of me directly in my lane. I flashed at him to move aside but in return he gave me continuous flashes till I moved aside and allowed him to pass. He was around 60-70KmpH speed. I safely stopped my car aside, came outside to cool down, drank some water and then again patiently started our journey.

Also make a note that there is almost nothing, not a single tapri throughout the road unless one “Sheetal Restaurant” which is near to NH9. The boards of this restaurant will start appearing prior to 8-10 Kms. Once you reach NH9, you need to take a turn towards Pune and start speeding towards “Mohol” exit. After taking exit at Mohol you will immediately come near MSRTC bus depot. Make sure you have some refreshment here as there is nothing till you reach Pandharpur.

The road is single lane and bit deserted, you won’t find a single soul in sight throughout until some villages are approached. The condition of the road is somewhat patchy, at few points there is no road and you have to do off-roading for few meters. You will come across many convoys of tractors loaded with sugarcane, playing loud music and off course very high beams. Keep going straight and when you see few village lights then assume that you are nearing to Pandharpur. You will see one or two hotels before Pandharpur bridge where you can have your meals.

Once you cross the bridge over Bhima river you will enter into Pandharpur. That day it was almost 10:30 pm when we entered into Pandharpur. So the plan of taking darshan was postponed to next day. The day when we were there was falling in “Karthik” month hence there were pilgrimages for “Karthik Ekadashi” and almost all hotels were full. Apart from hotels there are number of “Dharmashalas” and “Maths”. Due to family I was tilted towards hotel stay and hence kept on searching for it. At last after an hour found one decent hotel and retired for the day.


Pandharpur

Chala Pandhareesee javu l Rakhumadeveevara pahu ll
Dole nivatheela kana l Mana thethe samadhana ll

“Come on, let us go to Pandharpur, and see Lord Vittal the consort of Rakhumadevi. There our eyes and ears will get filled and mind will get peace.


When I approached the temple, there were few lines written on one banner as follows:

Vittala tala Vittala dindi l Vittala thondeem uchchara ll
Vittala avaghya bhandavala l Vittala bola Vittala bola ll
Vittala nada Vittala bheda l Vittala chanda Vittala ll
Vittala sukha Vittala duhkha l Tukaya mukha Vittala ll

Saint Tukaram Maharaj says, “Vittala is the cymbal, Vittala is the tambura. Recite Vittala. Vittala is the wealth. Vittala is the music, Vittala is its variations. Vittala is the tune. Vittala is the pleasure. I chant Vittala. To be near Vittala is pleasure. To be away from him is pain.”


At Pandharpur, there is separate temples for Lord Vittal and Rakhumadevi. At the entrance there is “Namdeo Payari”
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One cannot predict how much time it will take to get darshan. For us, it took almost 6 hours but the wait was worth as all the devotees are allowed to touch the lotus feet of the idol of Vithoba. I guess this is only one temple where you can touch the feet of lord. It feels blessed when you touch lotus feet of lord and all tiredness of standing in queue is lost in moments. After Vittal darshan we headed to Rakhumadevi mandir, there also you can touch the feet on goddesses.

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When we came out it was almost 5:30pm and I decided not to do night driving. Hence, extended the stay for that day and planned to explore Pandharpur. We went to “Pundalik Mandir” situated on the banks of the Bhima river. Here the Bhima river is alternatively known as “Chandrabhaga” because of its half-moon-like shape.

Pundalik Mandir
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View of Pundalik Mandir from the banks of Chandrabhaga
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Pandharpur city still has Tanagas (Horse Cart) for commute apart from auto rickshaws. We hired one to visit “Kaikadi Maharaj Math” which I would recommend if one is accompanied with kids like us. Entry to this attraction is free of cost. The monastery can be seen in couple of hours. It consists of various statues depicting stories from Hindu Mythology, Purana’s, Veda’s, Vishnu Avatar’s and so on. Stories are written in details so if you are interested and have time then do read them (only thing is that all these things are mentioned in Marathi, so if you do not know Marathi then carry one good translator along with you).

One word of caution for those who are accompanied with aged people and younger babies that once you enter this math you won’t be able to return back in middle, you need to move as per the lobbies created which will take you towards exit. Some lobbies are not airy and somewhat less lit.

Few pictures from Kaikadi Maharaj Math

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We enjoyed in this monastery and headed back to our hotel in Tanga. I found Pandharpur to be very calm and cool city to be in. One thing I noticed is the sweets which we get here are very fresh and awesome in taste, especially the Gulkand Barfi, Mango Barfi and Kandhi Peda which we get from sweet shop opposite “Namdeo Payari”. This was the day when we actually finished all temples as planned, hence retired for the day with relax mind.

Next day we started back to Pune in morning around 9:00am via Tembhurni road which is excellent in condition as compared to Mohol. You need to drive for approximate 40Km to reach NH9. Few pics en-route

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Some biggies on the road
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Once again yours Truly along with Grand
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We reached Pune in afternoon after taking few stops in between and having lunch at “Vittal Kamat”. This was one coincidence that our trip started with breakfast at Vittal Kamat and ended with lunch at Vittal Kamat. The name of Lord Vittal was following us in some other means and had its blessing throughout this trip.

!! Jai Hari Vittal !!

Some significant points in this trip:
  1. Always plan this trip by keeping one day as buffer, because you would never know how much time it will take for darshan at various temples.
  2. Avoid night driving as much as possible, because roads are bad and dividers are unmarked. Secondly, roads are deserted for long.
  3. Carry enough cash and change as there are no ATM’s available. Secondly, the petrol pumps and hotels are not accepting any cards. Though ATM’s are available in Pandharpur but they were mostly out of order or out of stock.
  4. If you are travelling with elder peoples, small babies and ladies then note that there is no hotels, tapri or washrooms available in the patch from Solapur to Akkalkot, Akkalkot to Ganagapur, Akkalkot to Tuljapur and Tuljapur to Pandharpur. Always get refreshed in washrooms available near temples before leaving that place.
  5. Though the queue is long for darshan but they have made benches to sit if someone can’t stand for long.
  6. Do get your tank filled up at Akkalkot as you won’t get any pumps until Ganagapur or Tuljapur
  7. If you are not used to drinking hard water which these areas have then carry enough stock of mineral water along with you.
  8. Do carry a light sweater as in nights the temperature is down especially at Ganagapur and Pandharpur
  9. Last but not the least. Carry enough things which will keep your kid busy at back seat. They normally get bored in such long trips.

Toll charges throughout the journey (single)
Pune to Siddheswar Mandir (Solapur)
1. Kavdipath Toll, Loni Kalbhor (Near Theur Phata) – Rs. 25
2. Kasurdi Toll – Rs. 25
3. Patas Toll (Pune – Solapur Expressway Start) – Rs. 65
4. Sardewadi Toll (Pune – Solpaur Expressway End) – Rs. 65
5. Warawade Toll (Solapur – Dhule) – Rs. 40
6. Sawaleshwar Toll – Rs. 40

No toll from Siddheshwar to Akkalkot
No toll from Akkalkot to Ganagapur
No toll from Ganagapur to Tuljapur

Tuljapur to Pandharpur
1. Sawaleshwar Toll – Rs.40

If you come by Tembhurni road while coming back from Pandharpur then Warawade Toll Plaza will be skipped saving Rs.40[;)]

Thanks for reading this lengthy travelogue and bearing with photographs.
 
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Re: One Divine Trip !

Thanks for all the information GrandRK. I have this trip in my mind I will surely be doing this sometime in coming months. The description is really wonderful and pin pointers are really helpful
 

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