Mesmerizing Visit To the Holy Abode of Goddess Ganga: Gangotri via Harshil


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Long weekend around Dussehra (22 Oct to 25 Oct) once again meant expedition to the Great Himalayas. This time it was Gangotri – pilgrims’ revered trail.
With 4 days in hand it was a tough squeeze of time and travel, so to save some time we thought to travel from Noida to Rishikesh on Evening of Wednesday to save from very long tiring journey. Thus our 4 days journey became almost 5 days journey.

Route Plan Details:
Day 1 (or rather Evening) Noida to Rishikesh (Route : Noida – Ghaziabad – Meerut – Muzzafarnagar – Roorkee – Haridwar - Rishikesh ). 5 Hours’ drive.

Day 2 Rishikesh to Harshil (Route : Rishikesh – Narendra Nagar – Chamba – Dharasu – Uttarkashi – Maneri – Bhatwari [Check-post] – Gangnani – Sukhi - Harshil ). 9 Hours’ drive.

Day 3 Harshil to Gangotri and back (Route : Harshil – Dharali – Lanka – Bhairoghati - Gangotri ). 1.5 Hours’ drive.

Day 4 Harshil to Haridwar (Route : Harshil – Sukhi – Gangnani – Bhatwari – Maneri – Uttarkashi – Dharasu – Chamba - Narendra Nagar – Rishikesh – Haridwar ). 9 Hours’ drive.

Day 5 Haridwar to Noida. 8 Hours’ drive.
Total distance covered was 1031 KM and fuel average I got was around 13 KMPL.
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Leaving office a bit early at 05:30 PM and starting our journey at 06.00 PM on a working day, we encountered mad rush between Noida and Meerut and finally reached Rishikesh by 11:00 PM. There was sizeable amount of traffic till Roorkee and the road conditions are quite good throughout, though two lane roads start from a point somewhere between Khatauli and Muzaffarnagar after the toll road ends. Toll charged was INR 75.
The route has enough petrol pumps and food joints, many running for 24 by 7. We took a break at Haldiram’s outlet at Muzzafarnagar.
Haridwar/Rishikesh offers a variety of stay options, including a wide selection of Ashrams/Dharmshalas, we wanted to cover maximum distance in plains so stopped only at Rishikesh being the gateway to Chardham yatra . But to our fate being a long weekend almost all of the hotels were booked and we had to manage in an ordinary hotel very near to Muni ki reti.

Did not take pictures for this leg of journey as we were in hurry and was getting late.

Next day started our journey by 6 AM from Rishikesh.Weather was a bit cold and sky was clear.
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Road were empty and drive all the way to Chamba was enjoyable. As the sun was rising and we were driving through the zig zag roads we could see rishikesh below and the river Ganga.
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It was a sight to behold. Guided by the signboards we reached Chamba at around 8 am.
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From Chamba to Dharasu roads were fine with marvelous views of some snow-capped peaks on route.
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Roads started deteriorating as we approached Uttarkashi. After Uttarkashi for some kilometers the whole area was dusty and tar road turned to a road less affair.
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Uttarkashi is the last stop pit for fueling up the tank along with ATMs in the market area. But I would suggest not to bank on ATMs in Uttarkashi, rather get the cash in Rishikesh itself as the market area is congested with few ATMs with long queues. Also stock up the snacks/essentials in Rishikesh only.
After Uttarkashi at Bhatwari check post we were stopped to write down the details of passengers and vehicle. This is the last check post and beyond which it is not permissible to drive after dusk.
We did not stop at Gangnani for hot water spring bath as I was tired and wanted to reach Harshil as soon as possible.
The roads after Gangnani are narrow with many landslide zones. We encountered one while returning from Harshil.
Finally we reached Harshil at 3 PM after 9 hours of treacherous drive.
Harshil is a beautiful hamlet and an Inner line area where only Indians are allowed.
We did not have any prior hotel bookings but knew of GMVN hotel existence so just parked our car at designated parking area and went straight to the hotel through narrow village lanes.
Distance from parking place to hotel is not more than 500 meters.
Being an off season got one room and our luggage was taken care by GMVN staff who were very courteous.

GMVN is the best bet at Harshil for anyone as it offers the best location along with best food and hospitality at such tough terrain. The rooms were pretty basic but one cannot expect more at such places. Tariff per night was some 1500 rupees inclusive of all taxes with complementary breakfast.
Lunch time was over so could not get and had to satisfy ourselves with coffee, toasts and chips.

Straight after snacks and coffee we went for a small tour around the village which is fully controlled by army. Army has done lots of improvement to uplift the quality of life of villagers from installing Solar powered LED lights to making concrete lanes.
We took a tour to the core Army area also but did not take any pictures as neither was it our intention nor was it allowed.

This hamlet is known for its natural beauty and delicious apples. The winding roads, tall conifers, mountains, the turbulent Bhagirathi, apple orchards, streams, waterfalls and green meadows — all typical of Harshil.

Pictures will give a better clarity.

The moment Sun goes down wind starts to haul with extreme chillness and over it river Bhagirathi flowing adjacent with roaring milky waters.
At night we were served sumptuous dinner which was very simple Daal, Rice, Roti and Sabzi; One cannot expect more than that.

One thing to mention is that only BSNL mobile will work in Harshil that too is most of the time out of network coverage, Although in Gangotri Airtel was also working, but we had only Vodafone.[frustration]
 

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Re: Mesmerizing visit to the holy Abode of Goddess Ganga : Gangotri via Harshil

Let the pictures do the magic.
[:)]
 

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Re: Mesmerizing visit to the holy Abode of Goddess Ganga : Gangotri via Harshil

Parking area in Harshil.
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Way to our Hotel(GMVN).
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Hotel Lobby, Dinning area and room.
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Harshil Peak visible from our hotel room's window.[:D]
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Apples everywhere.[surprise]
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About Harshil.
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Re: Mesmerizing visit to the holy Abode of Goddess Ganga : Gangotri via Harshil

Awesome travelogue Chandra with some nice pics too. I can easily recognize a couple of bridges and buildings and points in this one. BTW haven't you tried to look down from the bridge of Bhairo Ghati?

Also it looks like you are a courageous driver because this char dham is not a very easy affair once a monsoon has passed. The roads change from worse to worst after August every year; June IMO is the best time to be there.
 
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Re: Mesmerizing visit to the holy Abode of Goddess Ganga : Gangotri via Harshil

Awesome travelogue Chandra with some nice pics too. I can easily recognize a couple of bridges and buildings and points in this one. BTW haven't you tried to look down from the bridge of Bhairo Ghati?

Also it looks like you are a courageous driver because this char dham is not a very easy affair once a monsoon has passed. The roads change from worse to worst after August every year; June IMO is the best time to be there.
Thanks Vipul for liking the very first TR of mine.
Bhairo Ghati gorge look down was thrilling experience. [cheers]

I just love driving in Himalayas, before Gangotri I went to Yumunotri in Oct starting(will share the travelogue soon). I agree about the road conditions but overall it was manageable.
 
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Re: Mesmerizing visit to the holy Abode of Goddess Ganga : Gangotri via Harshil

Continuing with the Travelogue :

Next day we went to Gangotri darshan in the morning. We started at 9 AM from Harshil and till Bahiroghati the roads overall were good with some bad patches.
We saw a Maruti 800 traveling with 5 people on board.[clap]

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Hats off to BRO. [:D]
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At Bhairoghati only we had to pay parking fee for Gangotri which was a nominal 30 rupees.

From Bairoghati till Gangotri it was a bumpy roller-coaster ride with the thrills. In last few kilometers roads are non-existent. There are lot of small river crossings on the road.
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One place my car got scrapped underneath and man what great pain it caused to my heart. Left side under body running board got crumped like a tin can. Thereafter I further reduced my speed for the safety of my car.

On the way I saw this ill fated car on which a rock had fallen, the roof was opened up like a tin can.
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Low GC cars including mine were struggle on the last 5 KMs.
The poor chap on the bike fell after loosing control on slushy road but was OK.
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Finally reached Gangotri and parked my car at the very first slot of parking only to avoid congestion.
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From there it is just around 300 meters walk to the main Temple.
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The waters of the mighty Bhagirathi was chilling so did not dared to take bath in that but filled some of it in a bottle, my fingers got numb with those chilling waters.

Took blessings from the Goddess Ganga and spent some lovely time on the bank of river.

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The temple of Gangotri is dedicated to the goddess Ganga, near the sacred stone where legend has it that King Bhagirathi worshipped Mahadeva. It is believed that when Ganga first descended to earth from the heavens, Lord Shiva released the waters of the Ganges from the locks of his hair, and the goddess Parvati would bathe in these holy waters before they touched the earth.

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Trek Route to Gaumukh and Tapovan starts from here and one needs to take permit from either Uttarkashi or from Gangotri itself. Now only 150 permits are issued per day
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Altitude shown by my watch was 2980 meters.
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Shivling peak clearly visible.
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There is a GMVN TRH in Gangotri also just on the lane behind temple.
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My ride posing with the mighty Himalayas. [drive]
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Some more pics.
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While returning from Gangotri we bought delicious apples from Dharali.

In evening again toured the village and got upto the view point which is on the trail towards Army mess.
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There is a motor able road towards Mukhba from Harshil which lead towards Mukhba Temple where the deity of Goddess Ganga is worshiped during winters when Gangotri is snowbound and inaccessible. But it was very narrow with all loose sand I did not took risk to take my car there.
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Finally retired to my room for the necessary rest to be able to continue for next days' return journey all the way down to Haridwar.

While returning witnessed a landslide:
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But got cleared within half an hour.

Saw this Hydel turbine tunnel which i supposed is closed.
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Bham Bham Bhole.
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In Uttarkashi if one wishes to Go to Badrinath Ji and Kedarnath Ji then has to take left turn after market area.
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Dharasu Bend where road splits to Yumunotri.
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Finally reached Haridwar and retired to our room.
But just after an hour wife insisted to visit Har ki Paudi so could not resist.
Went to Chotiwala restaurant for dinner.
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But to our surprise water flow of Ganga had been stopped at the barrage to clean her up after the mess people have created during Dussehra season.

Next morning we again visited Har ki Paudi to do some shopping.
Just check out the view.

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Had delicious pooris in Lunch.
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At 2 PM we started our return journey to home.
Till Muzzafarnagar it was a speedy drive but then hit a road block.
The reason : See yourself.
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Whole of Ghaziabad was jammed that day.
We had to take a detour at NH24 towards Greater Noida and finally reached home at after 9PM.

Truly it was an amazing journey.
 
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Re: Mesmerizing visit to the holy Abode of Goddess Ganga : Gangotri via Harshil

Chandra captivating and interesting travelogue, the detailed photos did most of the talking, will be a ready recon er, who need to embark on this tirth yatra.

regards

vinod
 

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