Bajaj Pulsar 150 Classic Restoration & Modification


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So this time a 4 Stroke restoration on behalf of my friend and colleague. It was an unavoidable request after seeing my RX restorations.

About the Bike
Make : Bajaj
Model : Pulsar 150 Classic
Year : 2003
Color : Black
No. of owners : 1
Mileage : 53k

A little history
This bike was gifted by his (my friend) mother after graduation and he is so much attached to it. He pampered it like anything. Earlier days it was customized with engine scoop, "S" type (2 spoke) alloys, fancy horns, clip-on handlebars, etc. Once the fun is over, he rolled over to the stock spec. It was sometimes during Aug 2011 he left overseas for a short term assignment (3~6 months) leaving the bike completely covered in his apartment parking (he joined my organisation newly without much reliable friends here to handover the bike) But the assignment got extended for little over 1 year.

When he returned back, he found the bike keys were missing (or misplaced somewhere) Little (???) laziness and presence of alternate vehicle (Hyundai i10) postponed the idea of getting the duplicate keys or using the bike. Time passed and he forgot about the bike[surprise] During end of 2014 he shifted to his new apartment. It was the apartment security who reminded about the bike. After a couple of weeks getting settled in the new house, he went back with a mechanic to get the bike. It was untouched for more than 3 years[frustration]

Opened the lock with a duplicate key, filled some petrol and tried to start the bike but with least success. Pushed the bike to his garage (almost a km) and below is the list of work done
- Given a neat wash
- Flushed the fuel tank
- Cleaned the carburetor
- Spark plug replaced
- Battery replaced
- Ignition lock set replaced
- Brake shoes and pads changed

After all this, bike refused to start. Checked and found no current from the ignition coil. Replaced it and the bike started in few kicks.

Why Restoration?
On a lazy afternoon, we (along with some other colleagues) were at cafeteria discussing about my RX Cafe racer project. It was planned during the winter vacation (Christmas to New Year) but couldn't do as I left to Hometown and Kodaikanal. By this time he narrated the story of his Pulsar and said it has to be restored. I said, That's an easy business as the spares are easily available and pulsar being so popular any mechanic could do it. He is not so convinced to handover the baby in hands of some unknown mechanic and requested me to take up this project. I couldn't say 'NO' for a request from such a person. Finally got the bike on my hands a week back.

Some snaps
1.JPG

2.JPG

3.JPG

4.JPG

5.JPG

6.JPG

8.JPG

9.JPG

10.JPG

Restoration plan
This will not be a complete stripe down restoration as my RXs. Gearbox / crankcase will not be opened completely. Only necessary work on the engine will be done.
Items to be painted
- Frame
- Engine
- Tank & Shield (Not debided yet)
Part replacement
- Alloys, Head lamp, rear shock absorber & swing arm from UG2
- Clutch plate
- Chain sprocket
- All cables
- Brake fluid hose
- Foot pegs moved a little backwards along with gear shift lever & brake pedal (set up from P200)
- Clip-ons from UG4.5

Restoration will be done in stages (based on my leisure time) no specific timeline request from my friend. Most of the mod jobs will be DIY. Looking forward for suggestions and comments.
 
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Good one. Best of luck for the project. however looking in the snaps i don't think a paint job is required for the tank having said that pics can be deceiving. but rest of the body definetly requires a paint job. Are you palnning the stock alloys or Aftermarket. what about the front fascia of the bike i mean the headlight doom will be kept stock or changed to the Newer one's or kept stock. IMO the original headlight would add more value. Also please change that crash guard looks weird or out of theme. Do a split handle if possible will definitely be a looker with retro look.
 

Akash1886

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Items to be painted
- Frame
- Engine
- Tank & Shield (Not debided yet)
Most of the mod jobs will be DIY. Looking forward for suggestions and comments.
Satish any paint scheme considered? In my view why not go for a Fiat Punto wala Red Color?

Black off the engine which at present is Silver color. Also paint the new alloys in Black or Dark Gray (Something near about the color of your Sunny)

Regards

Akash
 
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Good one. Best of luck for the project
Thanks Dude
however looking in the snaps i don't think a paint job is required for the tank having said that pics can be deceiving
Items to be painted
- Tank & Shield (Not decided yet)
That's why they are in TBC category. Will check with the painter if waxing should help.
Are you palnning the stock alloys or Aftermarket. what about the front fascia of the bike i mean the headlight doom will be kept stock or changed to the Newer one's or kept stock.
Do a split handle if possible will definitely be a looker with retro look.
Part replacement
- Alloys, Head lamp, rear shock absorber & swing arm from UG2
- Clip-ons from UG4.5
All your questions were answered in the initial post itself. Stock Alloys and HL from UG2 version. Will be adding the Clip-on handlebar (2 piece type from latest pulsar)
IMO the original headlight would add more value.
I have a similar opinion. Thinking of going for OE doom with Amby / Enfield reflectors + 60/55W H4 bulbs (with Avenger 180 coils)
please change that crash guard looks weird or out of theme.
Definitely.
Will be going for the stock crash guard
Satish any paint scheme considered? In my view why not go for a Fiat Punto wala Red Color?
No Akash. Paint scheme will be 100% stock (Black tank & shields + Silver engine & Alloys) Bike owner is very much attached to the stock looks.

PS: Your suggestions (Red + Black) will be a killer. Once of my College senior had the same and I loved it. Thinking of the same scheme for my Cafe racer project.
 
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Can someone confirm if the alloy wheel (especially the worm gear area) is same between analogue & digital type (UG2 & the later versions)
 
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Few queries

1) Head lamps
We are still in a dilemma here, whether to use the current Round doom or the latest type (with mask) Current lighting is insufficient sometimes (especially when the road is wet after a down pour) In any case I'm thinking of upgrading the bulbs to 12V 60/55W (along with Avenger 180 coils)
- If we decide o go with round doom, which sealed reflector will fit inside the OE HL housing? (May be the one from Amby or Enfields?)
- Can the OE switches & harness take the load of additional wattage?
- Should the RR unit be changed

2) Swing Arm
Basic requirement is increased wheelbase. Is there a difference between UG2 Swing arm and other generation / spec (180/200/220) swing arms? If so, which is the best possible solution?

3) Alloy Wheels
Was there a difference between UG2 & later generation alloy wheels (especially the worm gear mounting area) Reason for this question is I came across a used alloy wheel set from Pulsar 200 in a decent condition and reasonable quote.

4) Tires
Many members here use R15 tire for front wheel. Please suggest which tires are better.

5) Sprocket
Was there a difference in sprockets between Classic & UG2? if so, please do list down the available sprockets for Pulsar family.

6) Foot pegs
Since we planned to shift the foot pegs a little towards the rear (with P200 set up) what are the other parts that should be changed along with? (other than the gear shift lever, brake pedal and the saree guard) I doubt the Silencer mountings (please confirm).

7) Clip ons
Are they (from UG4.5) direct fit on a Classic / UG2 forks assembly? What are the parts that need to be changed? (Top, LH & RH clip-ons, anything else?) Will it require the ignition lock set to be changed?
 
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Thread Starter #7
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One more query, is there a difference in Gear Box / Gear ratio between the classic and later generation Pulsar 150? Or is it only the shift pattern got changed?

PS: Wondering why no replies. Is it lack of interest or knowledge?
 

Akash1886

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1) Head lamps
We are still in a dilemma here, whether to use the current Round doom or the latest type (with mask) Current lighting is insufficient sometimes (especially when the road is wet after a down pour)- If we decide o go with round doom, which sealed reflector will fit inside the OE HL housing? (May be the one from Amby or Enfields?)
If the restoration is to be stock then go for round headlamp like in 1st gen Pulsar along with a projector lamp setup like that in Enfield.

- Can the OE switches & harness take the load of additional wattage?
Switches can work but it would be better to revamp the harness in case load exceeds the prescribed limit.

Regards

Akash
 
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Hope this should answer the gear ratio queries



Pulsar 150 Classic


Engine


Type Single cylinder, 4 stroke, air cooled
Bore (mm) X Stroke (mm) 57 X 56.4
Displacement (cc) 143.9
Fuelling "Carburettor
(Ucal - Mikuni BS 26)"
Compression ratio 9.5 (+ 0.5) : 1
Max. Power (Ps @ rpm) 12.00 @ 8500
Max. Torque (NM @ rpm) 10.80 @ 7500
Starting Kick / Kick + Self

Transmission


Clutch Wet multiplate
No. of gear & pattern 5
Primary reduction 3.47
Final reduction 2.8
Gear ratio
First 2.92
Second 1.88
Third 1.38
Fourth 1.08
Fifth 0.92

Chassis

Type Double cradle downtube
Suspension
Front Telescopic
Rear Hydraulic shock absorber


Brakes

Front Disc (240 mm)
Rear Drum(130 mm)


Tyre


Front 2.75 X 18"
Rear 3.00 X 18"
Fuel tank capacity 18 liter full; 3 liter reserve

Dimensions


Overall Length (mm) 1960
Overall Width (mm) 790
Overall Height (mm) 1065
Wheel base (mm) 1278
Ground Clearance (mm) 155
Kerb weight (kg) 132


Electricals


Battery (Voltage & current) 12v, 9Ah
Head lamp (wattage) 35 /35


Tail / stop lamp 5 / 21
Horn DC, 1 numbers
Pulsar 150 UG 1


Engine


Type Single cylinder, 4 stroke, air cooled, DTS-i
Bore (mm) X Stroke (mm) 57 X 56.4
Displacement (cc) 143.9
Fuelling "Carburettor
(Ucal - Mikuni BS 26)"
Compression ratio 9.5 (+ 0.5) : 1
Max. Power (Ps @ rpm) 13.02 @ 8500
Max. Torque (NM @ rpm) 11.68 @ 6500
Starting Kick / Kick + Self


Transmission


Clutch Wet multiplate
No. of gear & pattern 5
Primary reduction 3.47
Final reduction 2.8
Gear ratio
First 2.92
Second 1.88
Third 1.38
Fourth 1.08
Fifth 0.92


Chassis


Type Double cradle downtube
Suspension
Front Telescopic
Rear Hydraulic shock absorber
Brakes
Front Disc (240 mm)
Rear Drum(130 mm)
Tyre
Front 2.75 X 18"
Rear 3.00 X 18"
Fuel tank capacity 18 liter full; 3 liter reserve


Dimensions


Overall Length (mm) 2000
Overall Width (mm) 790
Overall Height (mm) 1065
Wheel base (mm) 1320
Ground Clearance (mm) 155
Kerb weight (kg) 134


Electricals


Battery (Voltage & current) 12v, 9Ah
Head lamp (wattage) 35 /35
Tail / stop lamp 5 / 21
Horn DC, 1 numbers

Pulsar 150 UG II



Engine


Type Single cylinder, 4 stroke, air cooled, DTS-i
Bore (mm) X Stroke (mm) 57 X 56.4
Displacement (cc) 143.9
Fuelling "Carburettor
(Ucal - Mikuni BS 26)"
Compression ratio 9.5 (+ 0.5) : 1
Max. Power (Ps @ rpm) 13.52 @ 8500
Max. Torque (NM @ rpm) 12.28 @ 6500
Starting Kick + Self


Transmission


Clutch Wet multiplate
No. of gear & pattern 5
Primary reduction 3.47
Final reduction 2.8
Gear ratio
First 2.92
Second 1.88
Third 1.38
Fourth 1.08
Fifth 0.92


Chassis


Type Double cradle downtube
Suspension
Front Telescopic
Rear Nitrox hydraulic shock absorber
Brakes
Front Disc (240 mm)
Rear Drum(130 mm)
Tyre
Front 2.75 X 17"
Rear 100 / 90 X 17"
Fuel tank capacity 15 liter full; 3 liter reserve




Dimensions


Overall Length (mm) 2000
Overall Width (mm) 790
Overall Height (mm) 1065
Wheel base (mm) 1320
Ground Clearance (mm) 165
Kerb weight (kg) 137


Electricals


Battery (Voltage & current) 12v, 9Ah
Head lamp (wattage) 35 /35
Tail / stop lamp 5 / 21
Horn DC, 2 numbers
Pulsar 150 UG III



Engine


Type Single cylinder, 4 stroke, air cooled, DTS-i
Bore (mm) X Stroke (mm) 58 X 56.4
Displacement (cc) 149
Fuelling "Carburettor
(Ucal - Mikuni BS 26)"
Compression ratio 9.5 (+ 0.5) : 1
Max. Power (Ps @ rpm) 14.10 @ 8500
Max. Torque (NM @ rpm) 12.28 @ 6500
Starting Kick + Self


Transmission


Clutch Wet multiplate
No. of gear & pattern 5
Primary reduction 3.47
Final reduction 2.8
Gear ratio
First 2.92
Second 1.88
Third 1.38
Fourth 1.08
Fifth 0.92


Chassis


Type Double cradle downtube
Suspension
Front Telescopic
Rear Nitrox hydraulic shock absorber
Brakes
Front Disc (240 mm)
Rear Drum(130 mm)
Tyre
Front 2.75 X 17"
Rear 100 / 90 X 17"
Fuel tank capacity 15 liter full; 3 liter reserve




Dimensions


Overall Length (mm) 2000
Overall Width (mm) 790
Overall Height (mm) 1065
Wheel base (mm) 1320
Ground Clearance (mm) 165
Kerb weight (kg) 137


Electricals


Battery (Voltage & current) 12v, 9Ah
Head lamp (wattage) 35 /35
Tail / stop lamp 5 / 21
Horn DC, 2 numbers
Pulsar 150 UG IV




Engine


Type Single cylinder, 4 stroke, air cooled, DTS-i
Bore (mm) X Stroke (mm) 58 X 56.4
Displacement (cc) 149
Fuelling "Carburettor
(Ucal - Mikuni BS 26)"
Compression ratio 9.5 (+ 0.5) : 1
Max. Power (Ps @ rpm) 14.10 @ 8500
Max. Torque (NM @ rpm) 12.28 @ 6500
Starting Kick + Self


Transmission


Clutch Wet multiplate
No. of gear & pattern 5
Primary reduction 3.47
Final reduction 2.8
Gear ratio
First 2.92
Second 1.88
Third 1.38
Fourth 1.08
Fifth 0.92


Chassis


Type Double cradle downtube
Suspension
Front Telescopic
Rear Nitrox hydraulic shock absorber
Brakes
Front Disc (240 mm)
Rear Drum(130 mm)
Tyre
Front 2.75 X 17"
Rear 100 / 90 X 17"
Fuel tank capacity 15 liter full; 3 liter reserve




Dimensions


Overall Length (mm) 2000
Overall Width (mm) 790
Overall Height (mm) 1065
Wheel base (mm) 1320
Ground Clearance (mm) 165
Kerb weight (kg) 137


Electricals


Battery (Voltage & current) 12v, 9Ah
Head lamp (wattage) 35 /35
Tail / stop lamp 5 / 21
Horn DC, 2 numbers
Pulsar 150 UG 4.5



Engine


Type Single cylinder, 4 stroke, air cooled, DTS-i
Bore (mm) X Stroke (mm) 58 X 56.4
Displacement (cc) 149
Fuelling "Carburettor
(Ucal - Mikuni BS 26)"
Compression ratio 9.5 (+ 0.5) : 1
Max. Power (Ps @ rpm) 15.06 @ 9000
Max. Torque (NM @ rpm) 12.28 @ 6500
Starting Kick + Self


Transmission


Clutch Wet multiplate
No. of gear & pattern 5
Primary reduction 3.47
Final reduction 2.8
Gear ratio
First 2.92
Second 1.88
Third 1.38
Fourth 1.08
Fifth 0.92


Chassis


Type Double cradle downtube
Suspension
Front Telescopic
Rear Nitrox hydraulic shock absorber
Brakes
Front Disc (240 mm)
Rear Drum(130 mm)
Tyre
Front 2.75 X 17"
Rear 100 / 90 X 17"
Fuel tank capacity 15 liter full; 3 liter reserve




Dimensions


Overall Length (mm) 2000
Overall Width (mm) 790
Overall Height (mm) 1065
Wheel base (mm) 1320
Ground Clearance (mm) 165
Kerb weight (kg) 137
 

Akash1886

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Doesn't it require a full DC system? I mean for a similar set up.
Satish, I marked you a reply based on the looks and fitment.:biggrin: because I am not technically that well informed in 2-wheeler. In simple words I told, change wiring if load exceeds, now if for that DC is needed then do your R&D buddy! Maybe a proper setup for headlamp including your DC set UP will be helpful to increase visibility and address your cause.

Regards

Akash
 
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no worries mate. I sure know as hell that whenever i require Tech help im sure to buzz you. anyways best of luck with the project once again .I'm closely watching this thread. However delay in responses could be due to ( ITS MONDAY) this.[surprise]
 
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Few queries

1) Head lamps
We are still in a dilemma here, whether to use the current Round doom or the latest type (with mask) Current lighting is insufficient sometimes (especially when the road is wet after a down pour) In any case I'm thinking of upgrading the bulbs to 12V 60/55W (along with Avenger 180 coils)
- If we decide o go with round doom, which sealed reflector will fit inside the OE HL housing? (May be the one from Amby or Enfields?)
- Can the OE switches & harness take the load of additional wattage?
- Should the RR unit be changed

2) Swing Arm
Basic requirement is increased wheelbase. Is there a difference between UG2 Swing arm and other generation / spec (180/200/220) swing arms? If so, which is the best possible solution?

3) Alloy Wheels
Was there a difference between UG2 & later generation alloy wheels (especially the worm gear mounting area) Reason for this question is I came across a used alloy wheel set from Pulsar 200 in a decent condition and reasonable quote.

4) Tires
Many members here use R15 tire for front wheel. Please suggest which tires are better.

5) Sprocket
Was there a difference in sprockets between Classic & UG2? if so, please do list down the available sprockets for Pulsar family.

6) Foot pegs
Since we planned to shift the foot pegs a little towards the rear (with P200 set up) what are the other parts that should be changed along with? (other than the gear shift lever, brake pedal and the saree guard) I doubt the Silencer mountings (please confirm).

7) Clip ons
Are they (from UG4.5) direct fit on a Classic / UG2 forks assembly? What are the parts that need to be changed? (Top, LH & RH clip-ons, anything else?) Will it require the ignition lock set to be changed?
Ohh Boss!!

i love that first generation pulsar. I saw this thread only now.I couldnt stop replying this post and even not read the posts after that till now.

1) Head lamps

- Use the stock type round HL set only. With the Current gen type HL, Bike will look ugly in total.
- keep the stock wiring setup and try better bulbs.Dont convert to DC now.Keep this pending for last stage.When i were used this bike, at that time. Pulsar had the best light output on the road than any other bikes. We can identify a pulsar from distance with the HL intensity in night.
- RR? i didnt understand. can you elaborate?

2) Swing Arm

-Swing arm of this type is shorter in length and width compared to 2nd Gen(DTSI) which had square type swing arm, but it can be fixed. AFAIK 2nd gen onwards pulsar came with 17' wheels.
Fixing 2 nd gen Swing arm again look awkward, because of the length of swing arm, it'll protrude out in rear than the brakelight and tire may touch the rear mudguard part where the number plate fixed.So you may change that also.

- best option is to slightly bend the current swing arm where the tire rub in swing arm incase using broader tires.

3) Alloy Wheels
& 4) Tires
- yes. the later generation came with 17' tires and this one has 18' wheels. Since you like to keep the stock looks, better use the same spoke wheels or try other Alloy wheels came in 18'. pls confirm

-You can change the rim only to 17' in the current spoke wheel and get good 17' tires. Thus you can get good broader 17' tires and also keep the stock looks.

5) Sprocket
Was there a difference in sprockets between Classic & UG2? if so, please do list down the available sprockets for Pulsar family.

-Yes. I dont remember the sprocket teeth numbers. I shall check with my frind and confirm. better keep the stock for good top end.

6) Foot pegs

-I can' remember the set up.I shall check and confirm.

7) Clip ons

- After the clip on handle bars came, I never felt pulsars are comfortable. i love the seating setup in first gen. After that in all gen you have to lean to front for ride and the harder material hand grip is not good for your hands .
 
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Thread Starter #14
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Ohh Boss!!
i love that first generation pulsar. I saw this thread only now.I couldnt stop replying this post and even not read the posts after that till now.
Thanks Releesh, I was waiting for your visit to this thread.
RR? i didnt understand. can you elaborate?
Regulator & Rectifier Unit
Fixing 2 nd gen Swing arm again look awkward, because of the length of swing arm, it'll protrude out in rear than the brakelight and tire may touch the rear mudguard part where the number plate fixed.
Only reason being the interest with extended wheel base and the kind of improvement from the handling point of view.
Since the change in wheel base (Classic to later versions) is hardly 40mm I hope it shouldn't touch any of the mating parts
3) Alloy WheelsSince you like to keep the stock looks, better use the same spoke wheels or try other Alloy wheels came in 18'. pls confirm
Stock looks I meant to say OE look (of later gen pulsars) Alloy wheels were chosen since there are better tire choices available in 17". Will consider your suggestion to use 17" steel rims as well.
Bajaj never came with 18" alloys (I hope) and not interested in after market alloys, neither from other OE.
6) Foot pegs
-I can' remember the set up.I shall check and confirm.
Refer the below snaps
DSC01019.JPG

91321_1350728937.jpg
After the clip on handle bars came, I never felt pulsars are comfortable. i love the seating setup in first gen.
After that in all gen you have to lean to front for ride and the harder material hand grip is not good for your hands .
Requirement is a sporty driving posture & that's why I wanted to move the foot pegs as well.
 
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This pulsar looks clean in photos except the engine paint and exhaust(looks like opened for more sound).

Just google it and see there are plenty of this model pulsars modeded to DTSi type and looks odd from the front and sides.

DTSI model rear swing arm is easily fixable, but you need to modify the shock absorber/mounting position, extend the chain,need to buy DTSI type chain cover and the swing arm center bushes.
We had fixed this DTSI swing arm in a Bajaj KB 125 without much issues some years before.

Pulsar didnt came with 18' alloy wheel. By changing only the rim, you can use the same hub and spokes.

Since Pulsar handle bars have already less height, you have to lean to front to ride it. Clip on handle bars also easily fixable I guess,though i didnt try. But it is the old handle bars which is more relaible and last than clip ons. They only bent will not broke. I had seen the new apache & pulsars with one side broken clip ons after falling down.
 
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