What Kind of Gear System Does LML Freedom 2003 Have?


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Hi.

I'm learning to ride bikes. My elderly neighbors have an old LML Freedom 2003 that has been lying around unused because their son is settled in the USA with his job and wife.
They said I can use it to learn riding.
I tried yesterday and it was a bit frustrating, but made some progress.
I have been told many bikes have a 1-down, rest-up gear shifting pattern.
In this bike, I tried to accelerate after pushing gear all the way down, but it did not move. (I don't know if it is in neutral because the neutral indicator is broken).
But when I shift up once, the bike will move when I accelerate.
Does the LML Freedom 2003 have a all-up gear shifting pattern? I tried searching online but could not find anything.
My neighbors also do not have any user-manual for the bike.
Please let me know.
Thanks.
 
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Welcome aboard Ankit.

Instead of asking us of the gear system, I'd suggest you to try hit and trial method.

the lever can't be pressed down right? Simple, try the opposite and try to do the 'up' thing. If the gear is shifted then slowly release the clutch and try to make the motorcycle move.

Keep in the same gear and see how fast the motorcycle goes in it on full throttle(give throttle input very slowly - it can be devastating as you are a learner). Now if the speed remains in the vicinity of 30-40 kph max then its the first gear and if the speed reached 50-60 kph then it's second.

If the gear is found first then the motorcycle is all up type and if its found second then the motorcycle is one down four up type.

Rest in 2003, there used to come a 4 gear version with all up and later in 2003 itself I guess a 5 gear version was also launched. Just confirm if it's 4 geared or 5 geared. If it's a four geared motorcycle then it's all up else it's one down four up. Rest I am sure you have some motorcycle mechanic nearby to help you find it out.

Keep safe, always wear helmet, use proper indications and keep an eye on other vehicle because 'cars have bumpers and bikers have bones'. All the best for your learning.
 
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welcome aboard ankit.

Instead of asking us of the gear system, i'd suggest you to try hit and trial method.

The lever can't be pressed down right? Simple, try the opposite and try to do the 'up' thing. If the gear is shifted then slowly release the clutch and try to make the motorcycle move.

Keep in the same gear and see how fast the motorcycle goes in it on full throttle(give throttle input very slowly - it can be devastating as you are a learner). Now if the speed remains in the vicinity of 30-40 kph max then its the first gear and if the speed reached 50-60 kph then it's second.

If the gear is found first then the motorcycle is all up type and if its found second then the motorcycle is one down four up type.

rest in 2003, there used to come a 4 gear version with all up and later in 2003 itself i guess a 5 gear version was also launched. Just confirm if it's 4 geared or 5 geared. If it's a four geared motorcycle then it's all up else it's one down four up. Rest i am sure you have some motorcycle mechanic nearby to help you find it out.

Keep safe, always wear helmet, use proper indications and keep an eye on other vehicle because 'cars have bumpers and bikers have bones'. All the best for your learning.
you stole my words!!!!!
 
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Thanks Vipul!
I'm almost convinced that it is all up.
The bike definitely only has 4 gears because the speedometer has painted 'ideal speed range' marks with gear number next to it. It only has 1,2,3,4. No 5.

The bike only seems to start in lowest gear position - which I am guessing is neutral.
I shift up and accelerate to make the bike move (I guess this is 1st gear). Soon as I reach ~20kmph, the engine sounds really bad - making lots of noise.
Going by the speedometer's marks, I shifted up again (I guess 2nd) and the bike sounds better when I accelerate.

So I guess this is all-up.

I tried riding in light traffic today. I stalled the bike 4 or 5 times during slow riding (where traffic got dense). Got a few dirty looks as I got in other people's way :(

Gotta practice more.
 
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you stole my words!!!!!
Well, you know being an engineer I am suffering with the disease called awesomeness!! :biggrin:

Welcome sirji, I am just here to serve you and and happy to know that this poor chap can be of any use to someone.

I'm almost convinced that it is all up.
Even I am too.

The bike definitely only has 4 gears because the speedometer has painted 'ideal speed range' marks with gear number next to it. It only has 1,2,3,4. No 5.

The bike only seems to start in lowest gear position - which I am guessing is neutral.
I shift up and accelerate to make the bike move (I guess this is 1st gear). Soon as I reach ~20kmph, the engine sounds really bad - making lots of noise.
Going by the speedometer's marks, I shifted up again (I guess 2nd) and the bike sounds better when I accelerate.
This practice will give you better understanding of power train studying and it's always better to have understanding of the power delivery of your vehicle in several gears before you hit the road for some true fun.

I tried riding in light traffic today. I stalled the bike 4 or 5 times during slow riding (where traffic got dense). Got a few dirty looks as I got in other people's way :(

Gotta practice more.
You need a whole lot of practice, rest I guess the following tips may be a bit useful for you:
1) When you see you need to stop or slow down or when you feel that the engine is slowing down by itself(under load). It is always better to downshift before coming to stop of before the motorcycle starts crying for a downshift - following this, you will decrease your stalling rate up to 50% easily. This practice is very useful in stop-go traffic or while going uphills. Shift before your vehicle forces you to do.

2) 'Say no to speed'. I can tell you that I myself ignored this advise with my first motorcycle(Hero Honda CD Dawn - way back in 2006-07) and I still have the marks of my first two wheeler accident on my elbow and knee. I simply sped up and when things went wrong - I knew what to do but either I forgot or my body hasn't co-ordinated with my mind. So better is to be slow and careful until your mind and body get well practiced for making maneuvers.

3) Always try to make the move on lower RPMs, if you develop a habit of revving up and then making your motorcycle move by releasing clutch slowly(people have this habit too - especially new learners) then you will face clutch issues and you can never enjoy the true power of your motorcycle. Method is simple:
  • Start the engine and leave the accelerator - let the motorcycle remain at idle revs.
  • Now slot into first cog(gear) and slowly(very slowly with high precision - try numerous times and you will understand what I am saying) release the clutch.
  • There will come a point where your motorcycle will try to move ahead without any throttle input(at idle itself) and if you release the clutch beyond that point then engine will stall.
  • Now you know where the actual point lies when power starts being transferred to wheel.
  • Now whenever you ride, try to slot into first gear and do the same and when you feel that motorcycle is trying to move ahead - just start giving light(very light indeed - maximum 500 RPM rise) throttle input. Your motorcycle will start moving ahead like a pro in a very smooth way. My chauffy taught me driving and riding and he taught it to me and I simply like this practice and now it takes me not even a second to make it all happen.
  • In fact, this method is so good that you will be amazed to see how much power your vehicle actually packs that it will start moving ahead even on inclines on throttle inputs that seems to be 'impossible' for most of the road users. I have shown people making my motorcycle climb inclines without making it scream - this method is so good and if you learn it then you will not only ride smooth - but also will have a longer clutch life too.
 
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@Mr. Vipul
See I am not even a dust in front of you senior!!(REALLY!)
Senior is a senior. You are ahead in everything than me! Even in age[;)]
I am here to learn and not give tutorials and some advise which I don't know about that thing. If I know about the thing asking for, I will give some tutorial and some hint!
 
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@Vipul: Reading your detailed posts, I am really glad that I decided to make an account and ask this question here.

After the stalling tamasha, I read up on proper clutch usage and about the 'friction zone' etc. Exactly the things you are mentioning in your post.
I was doing something completely wrong and stupid - completely releasing the clutch and giving throttle at the same time... sort of like a car.

From things I've read, there seem to be two approaches to get going from stop (just like you describe):
One is to start giving light throttle when clutch reaches friction zone. (which you recommend)
Other is to give throttle and go to higher revs, then begin releasing the clutch.

I'm going to try both these approaches the next time. Hopefully will get used to the first approach.

Also, another question for you:
In congested traffic, should one stay in 2nd gear or 1st gear? ie. when there is consistent but slow stop & go movement?

Thanks!
 
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@Vipul: Reading your detailed posts, I am really glad that I decided to make an account and ask this question here.
I am humbled sirji [angel]

After the stalling tamasha, I read up on proper clutch usage and about the 'friction zone' etc. Exactly the things you are mentioning in your post.
I was doing something completely wrong and stupid - completely releasing the clutch and giving throttle at the same time... sort of like a car.
The practice of completely releasing clutch and giving throttle is going to either stall you or going to give a jerk. None of the two is good.

From things I've read, there seem to be two approaches to get going from stop (just like you describe):
One is to start giving light throttle when clutch reaches friction zone. (which you recommend)
Other is to give throttle and go to higher revs, then begin releasing the clutch.
Releasing clutch on higher revs is a practice left only for tricky situations. Why to burn your clutch for no reason?

I'm going to try both these approaches the next time. Hopefully will get used to the first approach.
First approach feels best while negotiating ramp, hilly roads etc. Clutch is released early and whole power simply transfers to the wheels, result - the vehicle keeps on moving.

Also, another question for you:
In congested traffic, should one stay in 2nd gear or 1st gear? ie. when there is consistent but slow stop & go movement?

Thanks!
In consistent stop-go traffic, first is the gear to use as the vehicle keeps on stopping time to time while in slow moving traffic, second or even third gear can be used.
 

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