Two Wheeler - Pre-Delivery Checklist


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Hey friends,

My friend is planing to be Honda-Shine. Tomorow he might have delivery. He is not much in to auto mobiles. He checked with me about the things do before taking delivery of a two wheeler.

I searched our 2-wheeler section, but could n't find one. Can some one help me to get a list or locate one if we have any this section.
 
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Re: Two Wheeler - Pre Deivery Check list

- Check the kilometers run- lesser the better
- Check indicators, lights, horn, speedo/tachometer
- Check battery- see the manufacturing month/year and ask about the warranty of battery too
- Needless to say any scratches, dents
 
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Re: Two Wheeler - Pre Deivery Check list

Even My Brother-In-Law took delivery of Shine couple to weeks back.

Here is the things to check:
after checking Rightnow's list check the below.
1. Spares kit
2. First aid Kit
3. check all the accessories has been fitted
4. check the duplicate key
5. check the air pressure.
6. Check all the necessary documents you have received.

I hope the above is enough to take per-delivery.
 
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Hey friends,

My friend is planing to be Honda-Shine. Tomorow he might have delivery. He is not much in to auto mobiles. He checked with me about the things do before taking delivery of a two wheeler.

I searched our 2-wheeler section, but could n't find one. Can some one help me to get a list or locate one if we have any this section.
I wonder how can a human plan to be a Honda Shine!

Just joking. Please tell him to check the following things:

1. Front wheel: Check for free rotation fore and aft. Look our for date of manufacture of tyre. Look closely for any bend/chipping on the alloy wheel.

2: Front mudguard: Check for sufficient play between the front suspension forks and the mudguard. Ensure all nuts and bolts are tightened properly.

3: Headlamp assembly: Check for proper fitment of fairing. All bulbs should function properly. Headlamp focus can be cheched by throwing headlamp beam on a wall.

4: Meters: All meters/warning lamps should function properly. Check out the calibration of the fuel gauge. How much is the reading on the odo. Do the blinkers/high beam indicators work propely?

5: Key: the key shoud go smoothly inside the key hole. Check for locking of handle.

6: Handlebar: Shoould be tightened at a proper angle (compare with other bikes in the showroom). Park the bike on main stand, sit on it so that the rear wheel touches the ground (i.e. the front wheel comes up in the air). Bring the handle bar to straight ahead poosition and leave it - it should remain straight and not drop off to either side. You may have to try this multiple times in order to get it right.

7. Switches: Do all switches function properly? Does any switch show any resistance? Do the indicators cancel when the blinker switch is pushed in?

8. Fuel tank: Look our for dents and scratches. Is there any discolouration on the paint, especially at the top side? Check the functioning of fuel cap. Hold the tank with both hands on either sides and try to shake it left-right. Movement should be zero or minimum.

9. Seat: Look out for cuts, sogginess of foam compound, and fraying at the seams.

10. Rear grab rail: Should be bolted properly.

11. Rear mudguard: should not be loose. Look out for dents/scratches.

12: Rear wheel assembly: Check for free movement of wheel fore and aft. Look out for any damage on the alloy wheel. What is the date of manufacture of the tyre? A new 2 wheeler tyre will generally have small, evenly spaced rubber bristles all around the circumference of it's sidewall.

13. Rear Suspension: Take the bike off stand and sit on its rear sit. Jump up and down on the seat. Is there any noise from the rear suspension? Does it feel too hard or too soft? Paark the bike on main stand and compare both rear dampers while standing behind the bike. Does one damper look longer/smaller than the other?

14: Drivechain: The Shine comes with an enclosed drive chain. Take the bike off stand and sit on it. Jump up-down vigorously? Is there any noise from inside the chain cover? The free play in the chain should be 1 or 1.25 inches measured with the rider sitting on the bike while it is off stand.

15. Front/Rear brake adjuster mechanism: Check for free movement of the adjuster. It should be able to be screwed in/out with a single hand's worth of effort. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder if the bike is fitted with a disc brake.

16: Side Covers/Panels: Look out for dents/scratches. Check the locks. Do the panels fit flush on their mountings after being locked?

17. Battery: does the battery look new or old? Check the electrolyte level. Look for spillages. Both terminals should be clean and tight. Ask for battey warranty card.
18. Engine: Look for any signs of oil leak at all joints (clutch cover, crankcase, clinder head, carb manifold, engine oil filler/drain screw). Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes. Is the idling smooth? Are there any wnanted/strange noises coming from the engine? Check the engine oil level. Is there paint coming off from any part of the engine? Are there signs of any screw having tempered with?

19: Horn: Is the sound clear and consistent?

20: Gearbox: Check for oil leaks at the gear lever mount. Do all gears engage smoothly? Is the neurtal easy to find?

21: Footpegs: Are all footpegs tightened properly? Is any rubber covering missing from any footpeg?

22: Sparkplug: Open the sparkplug from the cylinder head and inspect it. Is the spark plug new? Is there any oil on its electrode? What is the colour of the electrode (on a new bike , there should be no deposits on the electrode)? Refit the spak plug and put on the plug cap. Does it fit properly? Is there any looseness?

23. Fuel tap: Does it operate smoothly? Do you see any red deposits on the fuel tap or on the pipe that connects it to the fuel tank (red deposits = leaking petrol).

24. Carburettor: Does the carburettor appear clean? Are the rubber hoses connecting it to the air filter and the cylinder head properly tightened? Is there any missing screw?

24: Air filter: Is it clean? Does it appear new?

25: Clutch: Is there sufficient play in the clutch? Does it engage and disengage smoothly?

26: All cables: Are they routed properly? Look for fraying.

27: Front/rear brake: Are they set properly? Is there proper free play in the levers?

28: Front suspension: Take the bike off stand. Apply the front brake and push the handlebars down amd up several times. There should be no noise from the front suspension. Check foir any oil leaks.

29: Number plates: Are both number plates present?

30: Rear view mirrors: Are both rear view mirrors present? Do they adjust properly? Get them adjusted to your riding position.

31: Saree guard: Is it fitted?

32: Valve caps: Are they missing?

32: Chassis: Look out for rust at all welding joints? Are all weld joints painted? Take the bike off stand and hold it perpendicular to the ground with the front wheel pointing dead ahead. Ask your friens do go go to the front end of the bike and look of both the front and the rear wheels seem to be in a straight line (there should be ZERO offset. Repeat the same process while standing behind the bike. Your friend will have to kneel down in order to inspect this properly at both ends.

33: Steering head: Does the handlebar mover freely from end to end? Does it travel more in one direction than the other?

34: Handlebar grips: Do they look like new?

35: Silencer: Check for dents/holes/paint fade. Is it bolted properly to the cylinder head?

36. Tire pressure: Are the tires inflated to the manufacturer recommended air pressure (I bet they wont be)

37: Test Ride: Now take the bike out for a test ride with a pillion. Does the engine pull smoothly? Do the gears engage freely? Is there any struggle in the engine? Does the clutch bite properly? Is there any noise from anywhere,especially from the suspension? Does the bike turn smoothly? Is the ride hard or soft? Is there smoke coming from the silencer? Get the bike back to the showroom and park it on a level surface. Do you see any oil leakage?

37: Documentation: RC book, Insurance, Battery warranty, PUC certificate (if applicable), Invoice, Bill for accessories fitted, if any, Owner's manual, Service/Warranty booklet, Duplicate key, First aid kit, Tool box.

38: Petrol: Is there sufficient petrol to take you till the fuel bunk?

39: Camera: For capturing the moment :)

40: Final look: Does everything look okay on the bike? Look closely.

41. Take delivery:cool:

42. Enjoy, thank TAI, and take care of the little Honda!
 
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Re: Two Wheeler - Pre Deivery Check list

One more addition, dont let the showroom guy drive your bike from their stockyard to the showroom instead ask them to bring it down there in their carrying truck,have seen many dealers guys driving down to showroom from stockyard and the way they handle new bikes with high speeds,revs high makes me think,
and even for my pulsar i did that while other owner saw his bike being brought at the showroom by their staff, i ordered mine tobe brought by their delivery truck.
 
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Re: Two Wheeler - Pre Deivery Check list

8. Fuel tank: Look our for dents and scratches. Is there any discolouration on the paint, especially at the top side? Check the functioning of fuel cap. Hold the tank with both hands on either sides and try to shake it left-right. Movement should be zero or minimum.
Another thing related to fuel cap- There are perforations in the lid to let air pass for pressure, check for any dust accumulated in these holes.

15. Front/Rear brake adjuster mechanism: Check for free movement of the adjuster. It should be able to be screwed in/out with a single hand's worth of effort. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder if the bike is fitted with a disc brake.
Wouldn't it lead to unnecessary tampering of the brake settings?

17. Battery: does the battery look new or old? Check the electrolyte level. Look for spillages. Both terminals should be clean and tight. Ask for battey warranty card.
How to check electrolyte? Before that, what is electrolyte, is it the solution inside battery?

6. Handlebar: Should be tightened at a proper angle..
I particularly liked this one. The same we used to do with bicycles. If the handle alignment is out in a motorcycle, can it be rectified manually like in bicycles? I guess not.

I think first of all the manufacturing date of the bike should be asked using the VIN number.
 
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Re: Two Wheeler - Pre Deivery Check list

Another thing related to fuel cap- There are perforations in the lid to let air pass for pressure, check for any dust accumulated in these holes.


Wouldn't it lead to unnecessary tampering of the brake settings?


How to check electrolyte? Before that, what is electrolyte, is it the solution inside battery?


I particularly liked this one. The same we used to do with bicycles. If the handle alignment is out in a motorcycle, can it be rectified manually like in bicycles? I guess not.

I think first of all the manufacturing date of the bike should be asked using the VIN number.
1. Just a single tiny hole on the fuel lid for passage of air. No perforations.

2. No tampering if one has common sense. Screw in once. Screw out once!:stupid:

3. Yup. The solution inside the battery. The battery has Min and Max markings. Almost all batteries today need to be topped up till the Max mark with distilled water (called 'battery water' in the market/at petrol bunks).

4. Handlebar adjustment cannot be made like one does in a bicycle. One has to fiddle with bolts on the T-clamp to adjust the handlebar on a motorcycle. It's still very very manual, though[;)].

5. VIN is extremely important. I did not quote it in my post as I could not tell how to decode Honda VIN.

@Moderators: Sethu's hard work shouldn't be allowed to go in vain. Can we have his PDF as the official TAI 2 Wheeler PDI check list (with some corrections - I volunteer) ?
 
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Re: Two Wheeler - Pre Deivery Check list

1. Just a single tiny hole on the fuel lid for passage of air. No perforations.

2. No tampering if one has common sense. Screw in once. Screw out once!:stupid:

3. Yup. The solution inside the battery. The battery has Min and Max markings. Almost all batteries today need to be topped up till the Max mark with distilled water (called 'battery water' in the market/at petrol bunks).

4. Handlebar adjustment cannot be made like one does in a bicycle. One has to fiddle with bolts on the T-clamp to adjust the handlebar on a motorcycle. It's still very very manual, though[;)].

5. VIN is extremely important. I did not quote it in my post as I could not tell how to decode Honda VIN.

@Moderators: Sethu's hard work shouldn't be allowed to go in vain. Can we have his PDF as the official TAI 2 Wheeler PDI check list (with some corrections - I volunteer) ?
Sam thanks for the appreciation. And if anybody wants, I can share the word document so that anyone can make modification/alteration/correction to it.
 
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Re: Two Wheeler - Pre Deivery Check list

I have summarized all points and made a report. Please go thru and give your comments. So that we can keep updating this check-list.
This is amazing work.

1. Just a single tiny hole on the fuel lid for passage of air. No perforations.
Even then, it should be checked or not?
I have experienced this problem (of dust in holes) in my friend's pulsar quite often and we had let the lid remain open for fuel to pass.[/QUOTE]

2. No tampering if one has common sense. Screw in once. Screw out once!
Not really if the braking response is highly sensitive to amount of screwing in or out.

3. Yup. The solution inside the battery. The battery has Min and Max markings. Almost all batteries today need to be topped up till the Max mark with distilled water (called 'battery water' in the market/at petrol bunks).
I have heard this for home batteries for inverters, but never heard of topping of automobile batteries!

4. Handlebar adjustment cannot be made like one does in a bicycle. One has to fiddle with bolts on the T-clamp to adjust the handlebar on a motorcycle. It's still very very manual, though[;)].
I thought so.

5. VIN is extremely important. I did not quote it in my post as I could not tell how to decode Honda VIN.
When I bought Avenger I just asked the guy about manufacturing date, he looked into VIN and told me the date. Not really important to know decoding of VIN as long as you are convinced about sales guy's method to decode VIN. Important is to be assured that its not an old vehicle.
 
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Re: Two Wheeler - Pre Deivery Check list

This is amazing work.


Even then, it should be checked or not?
I have experienced this problem (of dust in holes) in my friend's pulsar quite often and we had let the lid remain open for fuel to pass.

It should be checked, of course.


Not really if the braking response is highly sensitive to amount of screwing in or out.

Irrespective of sensitivity, one clockwise turn and one anticlockwise turn would reset the original setting. Simple [:)]

I have heard this for home batteries for inverters, but never heard of topping of automobile batteries!

There's always a first time for all things in life.

I thought so.


When I bought Avenger I just asked the guy about manufacturing date, he looked into VIN and told me the date. Not really important to know decoding of VIN as long as you are convinced about sales guy's method to decode VIN. Important is to be assured that its not an old vehicle.

The last person whose words I would trust while buying an automobile is the sales guy.


My replies in bold.
 
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Thread Starter #12
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I request either of you [Rightnow or Sam] to summarize the points to be added or corrected.

Other-way, I can send the Word file to you, so that either of you can alter/correct the contents so that it will be final report.
 
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The last person whose words I would trust while buying an automobile is the sales guy.
Either you believe in sales guy's method or you should know decoding a VIN. What other option do you have?

I request either of you [Rightnow or Sam] to summarize the points to be added or corrected.
Other-way, I can send the Word file to you, so that either of you can alter/correct the contents so that it will be final report.
I think Sam is in better position to give feedback on the check-list. I will try from my side and make a few comments.
 
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Either you believe in sales guy's method or you should know decoding a VIN. What other option do you have?



I think Sam is in better position to give feedback on the check-list. I will try from my side and make a few comments.
Sam, waiting for your feedback.
 

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