Around 5 pm we reached Pang where there was a check post and as usual we had registered with the vehicle and personal details. We then started and in no time we had entered the deadliest stretch on the high way
‘PANG’. It was on that stretch only we felt AMS when we were on the way to Leh; more explained in episode 5. During the ride I had stopped in few places for photo shoots.
After covering 24 kms from Pang settlements we reached Lachung La at an altitude of 16616 feet ASL; the time then was 5.45 pm.
Lachungla pass is traversed by the Leh-Manali highway. The pass remains open only for around five months in a year during the summer season. The pass is located 54 km from Sarchu and 24 km from Pang. Due to elevation, the hikers face breathlessness during climb and those who have not undergone acclimatization may face severe symptoms of altitude sickness. There were distinctly 2 colors visible then in the landscapes-Blue and all shades of brown.
After spending few minutes we started again. The road further to Nakeela was fairly plain.
From Lachungala you will descend in five long switchbacks to the bottom of the valley (only about 1000 vertical feet) and you will then drive more or less in traverse of the hillsides of “Jagged” mountain, which looks from close like a fortress. The road is improved every year and it is thus quicker. Years ago, there was mostly gravel road, now there are a lot of asphalt sections.
There are dozens of rock cairns around the half pass Nakeela. Looking back you can see the road twists and completely on the horizon also the pass Lachalung la. The way between these two passes was one of the less interesting passages on the journey, the sights then seemed familiar and somewhat monotonous. After riding 11 kms from Lachungla we reached the next pass Nakeela at 6.15 pm
Nakeela Pass
Situated at an altitude of 15547 feet ASL, the highest point in the slope of jagged mountains; although it’s pretty far from the classical pass. Behind the pass Nakeela open in a while the views of the deep canyon, on the opposite hill of which you will see the old trail winding upward in endless bends. From Nakeela await you the descent of more than 2600 feet of height to a large valley of river Tsarap – one of the major sources of river Zanskar.
We left the place in ten minutes and another deadliest stretch on the route, ‘Gata Loops’ was hardly 10 kms away. Gata loops with its 21 switchbacks are among the most popular places for bikers on the entire road. I had narrated more about Gata Loops in my 5th episode, during my onward journey. The ride from Nakeela was a ride that drove us crazy-quite literally.
As it was dusky and freezing temperature prevailed then we didn’t stop anywhere further for snapshots.
After running down the twists you get within reach of river Tsarap (approx. 13710 feet ASL), which is the lowest place after many hours of driving. From here you will ascend again, so this journey can be recommended only for well acclimated individuals. Otherwise, you may experience it with a headache or even worse symptoms of mountain sickness.
You will drive along the river a few kilometers before you see the tent camp of Sarchu on the horizon. Here leave Jammu and Kashmir and drive into Himachal Pradesh. The distance we rode from Nakeela to Sarchu was 31 kms.
But before we came to Sarchu, 14104 feet ASL, we had to make nearly seven-kilometer long detour into the canyon Tsarap before we finally came across a bridge over the river and got to the other side near whiskey Nala.
Around 7 pm we reached Sarchu. However getting accommodation was a real challenge to us. We were not able to get one suitable to us at least with basics. The weather was getting worst and dipping below 0°C.
During our search, a lady came from nowhere and offered her tin shed for the night stay. We had no other option but to take it. We were so grateful to her; but for her we would not have been there alive for the next day. Even she prepared a good food for our dinner.
We were so happy and considered her as a messenger of GOD!
Coming up – Goodbye to Ladakh – Stay tuned