Tata Nexon Ownership Review: Living The Nexon Life


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Fogging in head lamps is the concern for many cars and brands. Butyl rubber sealant is used for sealing the headlamp lens. OEM to aftermarket quality of this sealant differs. To remove they should heat the lens, remove, reapply and reseal it with new butyl rubber sealant, usually they will not have good heat temperature controlled heat guns like in manufacturing plant. This type of works often results in deformation of headlight lens.

Even if it is resealed the problem still persists, there will be always gaps in near headlight bulb, parking and turn signal bulbs(if incorporated in same assembly).
 
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The thing is I have seen numeorus cases where people fit aftermarket projector headlamps , by removing the stock seal and things work fine for 6 months time , after that ,
Yes, I somewhat agree with this. In my previous car (Alto K10), I have changed the OEM headlights to Phillips xtreme and it was done from Maruti accessory shop only. However, after that, whenever I used to water wash the car I could see moisture / condensation inside the headlights. I complained about this on my next service, but nothing happened and I had to live with it till I sold the car.
 
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Phillips xtreme Vision H4 only no need of headlight opening, they are plug and play.
Yes, you may be right, but the problem (moisture) started after upgrading the bulbs. Also, never had these type of problem in any of my cars used in the past (No headlight bulb upgrades on any of those)
And thats the reason I suspected that the reason for moisture inside the headlight after a water wash or during monsoon.!
 
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Yes, you may be right, but the problem (moisture) started after upgrading the bulbs. Also, never had these type of problem in any of my cars used in the past (No headlight bulb upgrades on any of those)
And thats the reason I suspected that the reason for moisture inside the headlight after a water wash or during monsoon.!
Yes it happens after water wash or monsoon, in fact Extreme vision runs cooler.
I have upgraded to Mini projectors I am extremely satisfied, half a KM throw and no condensation in my lamps due very tight seal.
 

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@mayankdixit

The problem of fogging is one that headlight designers have grappled with for years. A compounding factor is that headlights are becoming increasingly larger and therefore contain more interior air. This air heats up while the car is being driven – due to the warmth of the lamps and the heat from the engine. Almost all modern headlights have a ventilation system that prevents a build-up of pressure by displacing this hot air, and this system is carefully designed to allow no direct ingress of water into the headlight housing. However, in line with normal physical laws, air from outside is sucked back into the headlight interior when the inside air cools down again. If this outside air is humid, due to the prevailing weather conditions, condensation forms on the inside of the cover lens.

Fogging disappears of its own accord after the headlights are switched on. Designers seek to accelerate this demisting process by diverting the residual heat from lamps or control gear through the headlight housing. Despite all these efforts, not enough dry air is able to reach the farthest corners of the housing, and this is where condensation persists the longest. How long it actually takes until the lens is completely clear depends on the current weather conditions and level of humidity. When a vehicle is stationary, it takes even longer – and warmer weather – before the condensation finally disappears.

In many cases, daytime running lights have made the fogging situation even worse. Typically using LED light sources, daytime running lights generate far less heat than the low beam function – and they’re frequently installed as a separate unit. When trying to prevent fogging, it therefore makes sense to drive with your low beam headlights on instead of your daytime running lights, as more drivers tend to do in the fall and winter seasons anyway.

Source: carlightblog

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Check headlight vents whether they are blocked, as this can lead to persistent moisture and fogging issues. Insects, road debris and spider webs can block vents. You can also spray compressed air through the vents in order to clear the vents.

However, I wouldn't advice repacking the headlight if it was never removed before. Like VISHNUCARCRAZY and Suryaputhra said, resealing properly is more important otherwise fogging issue will be become worst then before.

I have upgraded to Mini projectors I am extremely satisfied, half a KM throw and no condensation in my lamps due very tight seal.
One of my friend also got it from Aliexpress in the beginning of this year and we both installed the same in his Maruti Swift. I wanted to post product review but kept on postponing. :tongue:

Here are the some of product and after installation photos.
 
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Big Thanks for the valuable inputs from @CRACING, @ Suryaputhra,@ Nairrk and @ VISHNUCARCRAZY. I came to know of new things courtesy you guys.I feel happy that I am sharing this forum space with helpful members who have good technical knowhow.
I will keep you posted with any new developments regarding this fogging issue.
 
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@CRACING, Those are HIDs, mine are LED projectors, simple plug and play, Long life. HID ballast are prone to fail(AC ballasts exception). HID Lamps too shorter life than LED. HIDs are too much stress on alternator and battery of course load on the engine. Relay kit is a joke it does not generate current it just bypass the main wring harness, ultimately Battery, Alternator and Engine will take load. For example the alternator is rated 50 Amps but your car entire requirement is 60 Amps the balance 10 amp is provided by battery and the alternator dying its level best to replenish the battery, engine alternator continuously working. Battery life too decreases. Battery life depends of how many charges, discharges and over charging. It is the reason newer cars incorporates sensors at positive terminal to take care of over charging. It is the reason Manufactures are moved to LED projectors. HIDs ruled 2010 to 2015 now everyone moving to LED projectors because of less complexity, cheap and long life.
 
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@CRACING, Those are HIDs, mine are LED projectors, simple plug and play, Long life. HID ballast are prone to fail(AC ballasts exception). HID Lamps too shorter life than LED. HIDs are too much stress on alternator and battery of course load on the engine. Relay kit is a joke it does not generate current it just bypass the main wring harness, ultimately Battery, Alternator and Engine will take load. For example the alternator is rated 50 Amps but your car entire requirement is 60 Amps the balance 10 amp is provided by battery and the alternator dying its level best to replenish the battery, engine alternator continuously working. Battery life too decreases. Battery life depends of how many charges, discharges and over charging. It is the reason newer cars incorporates sensors at positive terminal to take care of over charging. It is the reason Manufactures are moved to LED projectors. HIDs ruled 2010 to 2015 now everyone moving to LED projectors because of less complexity, cheap and long life.
Thanks for explaining in detail and you are 100% right. We actually wanted LED mini projectors only but most of them were 6000k and we wanted less then 5000k or 4300k. Personally I don't like the ballast thing and complex wiring but my friend was very interested in it so I let him decide. Also the package was held in customs for more then a month and we had lost hopes but just before covid, it was released and delivered without tax. Tbh, it is not a great bulb that I would suggest anyone but working fine so far and my friend is happy with it.

However, I will not go into details since it isn't relevant to this thread. May be later when I create a thread for it. [:)]
 
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@CRACING, I request you to create the thread on HID projectors installation. By the way manufacturers are providing 4300K, 5000K and 8000K conversion stickers for LED mini projectors I bought one set each of them. Some sellers by default providing 4300K and 5000K with package.
 
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Phillips xtreme Vision H4 only no need of headlight opening, they are plug and play.
Surya sir , Correct me if I am wrong , this doesn't need relay or wiring kit as an addition , as it has same spec as stock headlight right (Same or within the spec of manufacturer) 60/55 w -12V , whereas when one goes for 100/90 they need relay right (HIgher wattage = More lumen the light will put out right ?)
So from your point of view why would you recommend 60/55 W ?
 
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Surya sir , Correct me if I am wrong , this doesn't need relay or wiring kit as an addition , as it has same spec as stock headlight right (Same or within the spec of manufacturer) 60/55 w -12V , whereas when one goes for 100/90 they need relay right (HIgher wattage = More lumen the light will put out right ?)
So from your point of view why would you recommend 60/55 W ?
I request you to read my post #773 any doubts pls ask me, by installing 100/90 you are overloading your electrical system by 16 Amps(100X2 = 200/12 = 16.6 Amps). I believe swift alternator is 70 Amps, 60 amps for car and 10 amps for anything else including accessories. You are already overloading by 6 Amps. If you have not installed any other accessories this 6 amps drawn from battery and continuously replenished by alternator. If you have installed more powerful system, amplifier and speakers load will be more.

It is the reason Philips Extreme is 60/55 but technical different and give more light, this is also obsolete. Now LEDs are offering lot of Lumens for 60/55W.
 
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Today I bought engine oil and oil filter for my Nexon diesel,as I will be changing it soon. At the authorised retail shop of Tata Motors,they casually asked me will I buy engine oil? I politely replied that I had already purchased 5 litres from another wholesaler of Castrol .The owner of the retail shop then went on to explain that 5 litres is a waste as you will only need 4 litres.I was totally surprised,as manual suggests 5 litres,and that is what has been filled from the Tata ASS at least 3 times ,and that is the quantity (5 litres) I filled myself last year!!
On explaining politely my belief, the owner pointed towards a big Tata chart,stuck on the wall for customers only ,pointing out the oil requirements of all the cars from the Tata stable.I was taken aback when I saw that in that chart it was actually mentioned 4 litres for Nexon diesel!! The shop owner then told me that I had been overfilling engine oil each time,by 1 litre! He went on to scare me about damage to engine and seals because of overfilling.I did not want to enter any heated argument with the retail shop owner,so I left the shop hurriedly soon after purchasing the oil filter.
So you see OEM charts and pamphlets can be misleading too. Even owners manuals sometimes have discrepancies on different pages,and sometimes in different editions.
Interesting point is that shop owner had no stock of any castrol or tata genuine oil in 4 litres packing . He had only 3.5 litres(for petrol) or 5.5 litres(for diesel). That was weird too as 5 lit pack was missing.
How am I supposed to calculate and fill 4 litres,when there is no pack of 4 litres.



This was the chart stuck there
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How will I believe other details in this chart when there is this big error?? Maybe tiago and tigor cars data is correct .
IMG-20200831-WA0040.jpg
 
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Posting some pictures of the Engine oil filter and the 5 litre Tata specified oil I purchased couple of days back,for the impending next service.



Old and new oil filter,for comparison sake. Note old was of Elofic brand.
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New one is of Spinon brand.Never heard of it.
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inside of the filter
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Even the plastic packing of the filter has markings on it
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Nexon uses Fully Synthetic engine oil,in both petrol and diesel cars. Diesel requires 5 liters. As mentioned in earlier post ,the chart information from Tata was totally wrong!
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