PowerPig! KTM Duke 390 - October 2014


Thread Starter #151
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Brake pad change.

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Remove wheel sensor first.

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Then wheel.

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Worn pads

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Removed.

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Piston all the way out.

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Cleaned and pushed all the way in.

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The base.

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No lube at either points.
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Cleaned with diesel.

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Looks spanky new.

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Customary old pad vs new pics.

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New pads installed.

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All set.

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Thread Starter #153
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January 2019: (Continued after wash)

Throttle Body Cleaning:

Docked and tank and panels removed.

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Remove air filter.

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Recent addition, 3-mm T-bar came handy.

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Access to throttle body.

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Removing throttle cable.

There was a plastic notch covering the bigger hole, lost when popping out. Remove the notch.

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Slide the cable to bigger hole.

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Slide the cable through the bigger hole.


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Remove the cable.

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Four connectors to be disconnected.

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Pull out the fuel line and plug it.

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Remove throttle body, just a hose clamp.

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The throttle body.

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Where it came off.

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Block it as well to prevent dust accumulation.

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Thread Starter #155
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....Continued.

Throttle body. Made by Dell'Orto, an Italian carburetor and Fi system manufacturer. Made in India.

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Dirty inside out.


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Outlet side full of muck.

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Idle controller stepper motor.

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Injector

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High pressure sensor

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Throttle position sensor

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3M Carb cleaner, cleans Fi also.

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Remove injector first from throttle body. One torx screw and some twist and turn, it comes off.

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The dirtier side

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Spray abundantly. Also spray into pockets.

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Inlet side. Less dirty.

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Outcome.

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The small headless (Allen) bolt is used to adjust idle rpm.

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Cleaning the injector.

Right side is fuel inlet and left outlet. Removing the metal clip removes the inlet cover (didn't remove as it was too tight).
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We have to clean it the opposite direction to remove block, if any. Connect a tube at outlet and fill it with cleaner solvent. The longer the tube, the better since the spray will bounce back. (Had contact with eyes and wasn't a pleasant experience. Wear safety glass).

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Connect a 9V transistor battery

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Valve opens and solvent starts flowing. (Could easily make a custom connector with mini horn clips and 9v battery connector, had to do jugaad since it was Sunday with no shops and whole thing was unplanned. Holding wires were really irritating)
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Surprisingly no dirt.

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Now that's decently clean. Injector installed back.

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Clean the whole are and start installing back.

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Fitting back is reverse procedure, as usual.
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Since tank is off, checking spark plug condition would be easy. Condition not bad, lean.

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Thread Starter #157
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March 2019 - Oil change time

In love with Motul 300v, so bought again.

Motul 300v 15W50.
₹ 950.00 x 2 (MRP ₹ 1100.00 and ₹ 1075.00, got different batches)

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Oil Filter - JG571014 - ₹ 74.00
This time Bajaj packing.

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Wurth Engine flush ₹ 140.00
Poured 1/3rd and idled before drain.

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Removed engine belly. All 10 mm bolts.

18 mm for main drain bolt.

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13 mm for secondary drain bolt.

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8 mm for oil filter cover

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Pulling out the oil filter was tricky since there was nothing to grip on. Old school way. Punched and pulled out.

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Completely drained.

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Cleaned and dried all strainers and bolts.

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Main strainer.

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Secondary strainer

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Fluorescent green and smells too good.

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It can take between 1.6 and 1.7 L.

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Idle and let it settle and check the level. Perfect.

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Reset the service reminder.

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And don't forget to turn off the key. Low battery.

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Thread Starter #158
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April 2019

ABS started showing issues, gradually the speedometer stopped working, everything related to distance. RPM, fuel and rest were working fine. Previously, it would happen intermittently, now it was permanent. Gave the bike to a friends SBK garage. They scanned and changed wheel sensor disc, but wasn't sorted. Swapped everything except wiring and ABS module from another bike and nothing positive. Returned bike as is.

Sensor Disc - Front - JU131801 - ₹ 101.00
Sensor Disc - Rear - JU131802 - ₹ 78.00
Labor - ₹ 60.00

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Thread Starter #161
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May 2019

Got back bike from the garage after 2 weeks they trying to troubleshoot. Stripped and started testing the continuity of wires one by one.

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Commonplace where wire used to brake in the initial D200s. Found a break, but wasn't related to ABS.

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The ABS controller. Someone broke the connector and tied with cable tie.

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Part number 90142031000

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Cut open even the entire sleeve.

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Replaced with new sleeve.

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Handle mounts were loose. Tightened them down as well.

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8 mm Allen bolt.

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and 17 mm nut.

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Panel cover rear of the headlight. Channel to route speedo sensor.

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Held by two bolts on top, two in bottom.

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Routed cables.

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Wiring harness part number. JG 102250 MOD01

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This holds and pivots the headlamp.

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Zeroed to ABS controller. New one would cost ₹ 23,000.00. A biker friend converted his Karizma R to ABS using Duke controller and some custom parts. Contacted him and he agreed to search for used parts. Till date couldn't find a working one. Still waiting.
 
Last edited:
Thread Starter #162
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June 2019:

The bike wasn't used much since speedo was not working. Battery drained.

Just plugged it to a 12 V power supply lying around and fiddled with the pot and it gave constant 13.6 V. Saved for the day.

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Thread Starter #163
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July 2019

Another jugaad. Cut open the hole on top of the engine belly. Now, it can be removed without removing the bolts completely, just gotta loosen it a bit.

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Very small clearance between the coolant pipes and only open-ended spanner fits. Even hard to squeeze in hands.

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ust plugged it to a 12 V power supply lying around and fiddled with the pot and it gave constant 13.6 V. Saved for the day.
Nice Idea. Just add an Diode for safety as at times these SMPS are not rated for Reverse flowback of Current. and offset your pot to +0.7v to compensate for diode.
 
Thread Starter #165
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Nice Idea. Just add an Diode for safety as at times these SMPS are not rated for Reverse flowback of Current. and offset your pot to +0.7v to compensate for diode.
That's a nice tip. Indeed the light keeps glowing even after it's turned off. 13.6 V is the max it can be squeezed of.
 
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