Back with an update!. Since past several days the caliper pin noise was bothering me a lot. Since recently I did a brake overhaul and the pin noise was back after 1-2 k kms of running. So i decided to replace the caliper pins. Went to a MASS near my office and the caliper pins were in stock. So i decided to go with the plan of changing them. To my horror the LHS brakepad was consumed fully
. So i told him to replace RHS and LHS along with the caliper pins. Total cost including the labor was 2300 (1570 for the pads, 430 for both side pins and 300 labor). The braking obviously is good as new and also those weird sounds have gone when you drive over a pot hole with a dry caliper pin. Hope this expenditure will last for at least 20-30k kms.
The cost of clutch overhaul he said will be to the tune of 10k. He said you can still juice this clutch for another 10k kms as the juddering is not severe.
Yes, they are right about the clutch overhaul and it can go another 10k kms but it will create unnecessary load on the engine and also causes more wear on the flywheel. During next clutch replacement, post inspection, if they say flywheel is bad then you you must replace flywheel also. Flywheels that comes fitted with the engine is of superior quality and it will easily last 1,00,000 kms. The sole reason for me to consider a Diesel AMT, more torquey and less juddery and the clutch is long lasting
. I also came across my friends Terrano AMT and he is munching miles like anything. He drives it rough and the odo is at 55k with still original clutch pack and AMT works like new and add to that there is no judder, only the lag during the shifts is felt.
And when you reach a point where clutch needs to be replaced, replace only clutch, dont replace flywheel it is not required. Judder indicates clutch replacement in an AMT. If you are experiencing this more often than usual then it is an indication for you to change clutch along with clutch cover for better results.
Brake pads in my MK-1 swift came till 70k kms that is due to light traffic back in 2009-2014 and it is a manual. It should easily last another 20-30k but get the rear brake liners checked too in the next 10k run. Because they only offer 30% of the braking so they will last a little longer.
And coming to the caliper pins, if you do not change them every 10k your disc brakes will get bent slightly due to uneven wear of the brake pads at a particular point when higher force is exerted on the brakes, which causes that annoying brake sounds and you must replace the disc to fix it. This happened to me on my MK-I Swift (2009) so I am sharing the experience. I used to give my car at FNG and didn't know that they will replace caliper pins on a periodic basis (10K Kms). Nowadays MASS is so packed up and they will not replace unless a customer proactively asks for it or they want to inflate the bill. Changing caliper pins is very important which was told to me by a good MASS technician back in those days!
Only things that I feel need attention in a 1.3 DDIS are,
1) Timely Engine Oil and coolant replacement along with oil and air filter.
2) EGR cleaning at every 30k kms or depending upon usage.
3) Keep an eye on the water pump and replace when there is slightest leak. (This wont arise at all if you put good quality coolant and distill water)
4) Replace Caliper pins regularly.
5) Look for coolant leaks at TGR pipe and radiator hoses.
There are many other common things to talk about but these are the main points. And these are the only things I faced in my ownership. 1.3 DDIS keeps going on and on and on.
I still have no idea about why they dont top up AMT oil. Rest all I am very familiar with.