My All-New Maruti Suzuki Swift Dzire ZDi (AGS): Ownership Review

[fusion_defusion]

Your reviews are really receiving lot of attention so much so that I got pulled from a google search to your reviews, although I had to dig deeper into search results. I'm really surprised by the dearth of long term ownership reviews of Maruti's diesel AMT considering the sales numbers and the value proposition it offers. Most of the search results yield media reviews which waste more than half of the time explaining features that everybody knows and they just mention momentary lag of AMT shifts that I'm okay to live with as long as I get a reliable setup. Afterall, how many of us regularly engage in drag races considering the ever worsening traffic situation in metropolitan cities! Anyway, I'm giving serious consideration to Brezza AMT since I'm tired of constant shifting in first 3 gears in my Alto k10. I took a test drive of the same and really liked the hassle free driving and high seating position. However, I'm a bit concerned about the reliability of the same and feel that the clutch wears out a lot faster in AMT than manual transmission. What would be the frequency of clutch overhauls provided that almost 80% if the times, I'm juggling between first 3 gears in my manual car? Is there anything else that could go wrong in a minimum ownership span of 7 years/1.5 lac km given that it's an automation of the manual transmission?

Again, I am glad that my reviews helped you. I try to pump in as much updates as I can. I am completely satisfied with the AMT performance and I think one must consider this as an option. Though it's not as smooth as the regular automatics but then it's the cheapest way to go automatic. I do agree that clutch wear and tear is more compared to a regular manual as the setup constantly upshifts and downshifts to prevent a surge or a stall. I also would suggest to drive in manual mode when in city traffic as you can anticipate the traffic ahead and you wont upshift until you know that you are going to maintain the next higher gear for atleast 30-40 secs. The next clutch overhaul i think will be due around 1.2 l kms, if it were a manual you could easily stretch for another 20k kms. If you are thinking to switch to an AMT i would suggest to go for it, you will have to adapt with the setup because the setup will not adapt to your style of driving.

Very informative review indeed. Please keep posting. I am seeking knowledge on all 4 auto-transmission technologies being used in India, - TC AT, CVT, DSG and this AMT. You seem to be an informative source for me. Thanks !

Thanks sir.

Now the car has clocked around 78k kms. Its rainy season and the service is due, but I am delaying the complete service until end of Sept. There are quite a few things to be taken care of but for now I got the engine oil replaced in a Shell bunk. Following items need attention, thanks to those lunar craters on Pune roads.

1. Tie rods inspect and replace if necessary
2. Caliper pin greasing/replacement as necessary
3. Front brake pads replacement
4. Rear shock absorber service
5. Handbrake lever adjustment for tightening, right now even on all notches up the car tends to slip on a steep gradient so I put it in D or R mode as necessary.

Will keep you guys posted on how it goes.

Thanks,
Amit

 

[VISHNUCARCRAZY]

1.Tie rods any issues?
2.Replace the caliper pin than greasing , as the shims don't do any good for our road conditions , it just wurls into the sleeve.
3.If pads are to be replaced , check rotors (if it has marks , either lathe it up , else replace rotor )- better pads + worn rotor , same effect as old pads .
4.Rear shock absorber (what's the issue ?)
5. Tightening of handbrakes will do .

PS- Make sure they don't charge you for caliper pin greasing labour as both sides (They bill for the 2 sides separately )

 

[Volksjäger]

Again, I am glad that my reviews helped you. I try to pump in as much updates as I can. I am completely satisfied with the AMT performance and I think one must consider this as an option. Though it's not as smooth as the regular automatics but then it's the cheapest way to go automatic. I do agree that clutch wear and tear is more compared to a regular manual as the setup constantly upshifts and downshifts to prevent a surge or a stall. I also would suggest to drive in manual mode when in city traffic as you can anticipate the traffic ahead and you wont upshift until you know that you are going to maintain the next higher gear for atleast 30-40 secs. The next clutch overhaul i think will be due around 1.2 l kms, if it were a manual you could easily stretch for another 20k kms. If you are thinking to switch to an AMT i would suggest to go for it, you will have to adapt with the setup because the setup will not adapt to your style of driving.

Thanks sir.

Now the car has clocked around 78k kms. Its rainy season and the service is due, but I am delaying the complete service until end of Sept. There are quite a few things to be taken care of but for now I got the engine oil replaced in a Shell bunk. Following items need attention, thanks to those lunar craters on Pune roads.

1. Tie rods inspect and replace if necessary
2. Caliper pin greasing/replacement as necessary
3. Front brake pads replacement
4. Rear shock absorber service
5. Handbrake lever adjustment for tightening, right now even on all notches up the car tends to slip on a steep gradient so I put it in D or R mode as necessary.

Will keep you guys posted on how it goes.

Thanks,
Amit

Great Amit . Wonderful Ownership review. It has been a very good long term ownership and you have driven and took care of it like a TAIGER should !!! So how are you planning to maintain this car post BS-VI fuel ? As your already know that ULSD is a dry fuel despite oil companies claim that they add additives to negate the effect. Have you planned about any fuel additive that keeps your fuel system lubricated ? Or are you simply planning to replace this car post BS6 ? If yes, then whats on your mind ??

 

[fusion_defusion]

1.Tie rods any issues?
2.Replace the caliper pin than greasing , as the shims don't do any good for our road conditions , it just wurls into the sleeve.
3.If pads are to be replaced , check rotors (if it has marks , either lathe it up , else replace rotor )- better pads + worn rotor , same effect as old pads .
4.Rear shock absorber (what's the issue ?)
5. Tightening of handbrakes will do .

PS- Make sure they don't charge you for caliper pin greasing labour as both sides (They bill for the 2 sides separately )

Just a hunch that the ties rods must have started to wear, I hear some clung clank sounds while turning wheel(although not always), worn out rack bush may be?, caliper greasing is not causing it because the sound comes even after applying brakes on a rough road. Will consider rest of your points as well.

Great Amit . Wonderful Ownership review. It has been a very good long term ownership and you have driven and took care of it like a TAIGER should !!! So how are you planning to maintain this car post BS-VI fuel ? As your already know that ULSD is a dry fuel despite oil companies claim that they add additives to negate the effect. Have you planned about any fuel additive that keeps your fuel system lubricated ? Or are you simply planning to replace this car post BS6 ? If yes, then whats on your mind ??

Thanks mate, yes I do take care of her timely and that is the reason I always get a good resale price. I sold my 1.43l kms Ritz VDI and the first thing the buyer said to me after he took the car home was, "the family is saying the car still looks and drives like new". As for the BS6 fuel i didn't even imagine till now that what could happen after this conversionbut thanks for putting this into my head and to think over it , I am not sure what is the best plan of action, guess I will play along and keep googling for possible solution, the thing is there are herds of vehicle still in BS4 category an easy solution must be right around the corner. Guess wait and wait till then.

 

[VISHNUCARCRAZY]

Check stabiliser bar .

 

[fusion_defusion]

Hi Everyone,
Changed the brake pads and caliper pins and everything is sorted now. He removed and refitted rear shock absorbers to satiate me :) , although he said nothing was wrong with them and I find no difference before or after but its out of my mind now. May be i am suffering with OCD

The ugly clutch judder has come back starting couple of days back but only when the car is in 1st gear and during morning or late evening hours only, when its cold outside. Once everything is warmed up, it goes away.

Rest is all fine as of now, next service due in 8000 kms. The current clock on ODO read in excess of 81k kms only 19k left untill my next change and I have started staring those Nexons already

 

[fusion_defusion]

Hi Everyone,
ODO reads 91k+ now. 90k service is still due and is held up due to some work pressure and other things, but I got the oil drained and replaced last week with shell fully synthetic 5w40. Will do the remaining items later as i find time. The clutch needs replacement again as the judder is prominent and feels uncomfortable when I push her from standstill. The timing chain needs replacement too(i can defer it to 1 lac kms) but the clutch work needs immediate attention. There is no problem with the undercarriage so would it be ok to only get clutch done this time with all other 90k services items deferred? Need advice!!

Rest everything is good so far and yes I also got my battery replaced in Jan 2020.

Will keep you guys posted.

 

[Suryaputhra]

Hi Everyone,
ODO reads 91k+ now. 90k service is still due and is held up due to some work pressure and other things, but I got the oil drained and replaced last week with shell fully synthetic 5w40. Will do the remaining items later as i find time. The clutch needs replacement again as the judder is prominent and feels uncomfortable when I push her from standstill. The timing chain needs replacement too(i can defer it to 1 lac kms) but the clutch work needs immediate attention. There is no problem with the undercarriage so would it be ok to only get clutch done this time with all other 90k services items deferred? Need advice!!

Rest everything is good so far and yes I also got my battery replaced in Jan 2020.

Will keep you guys posted.

In my opinion clutch and timing chain replacement is better even though timing chain replacement suggested at 1 lakh km. All other things in 90k km service you can exclude.

 

[fusion_defusion]

In my opinion clutch and timing chain replacement is better even though timing chain replacement suggested at 1 lakh km. All other things in 90k km service you can exclude.

I think the same. Although I understand that you need to drain the oil for timing kit replacement, so do not want to waste that precious oil unless they have a clean storage tank which can be reused after the job is done.

 

[Suryaputhra]

I think the same. Although I understand that you need to drain the oil for timing kit replacement, so do not want to waste that precious oil unless they have a clean storage tank which can be reused after the job is done.

Next time use good Idemistu advanced molybdenum or Amsoil signature series oil that makes difference.

 

[fusion_defusion]

Finally she is gone for good. Completed 100,000 kms in May'22 and booked Nexon EV Max.