Hell's Angel - Suzuki Zen Estilo LXi - Midnight Black - March 2007


mayankdixit

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FACTS: (source wikipedia)
1)Thicker oils are not necessarily better than thinner oils, unless and until manuf. of the car recommends it.
2) Heavy oils tend to stick longer to parts between two moving surfaces, and this degrades the oil faster than a lighter oil that flows better, allowing fresh oil in its place sooner.
3) Cold weather has a thickening effect on conventional oil, and this is one reason thinner oils are manufacturer recommended in places with cold winters.
4) Engine designs are constantly evolving to allow the use of even lower-viscosity oils without the risk of excessive metal-to-metal abrasion, principally in the cam and valve mechanism areas. In line with car manufacturers push towards these lower viscosities in search of better fuel economy, on April 2, 2013 the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) introduced an SAE 16 viscosity which now maruti recommends it viz.0W16
5) Lower-viscosity oils are common in almost all newer vehicles. They will not lower the life of engine.Why would manuf.want to damage engine intentionally with thin oil and bear warranty cost of all car repairs?
 
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FACTS: (source wikipedia)
1)Thicker oils are not necessarily better than thinner oils, unless and until manuf. of the car recommends it.
2) Heavy oils tend to stick longer to parts between two moving surfaces, and this degrades the oil faster than a lighter oil that flows better, allowing fresh oil in its place sooner.
3) Cold weather has a thickening effect on conventional oil, and this is one reason thinner oils are manufacturer recommended in places with cold winters.
4) Engine designs are constantly evolving to allow the use of even lower-viscosity oils without the risk of excessive metal-to-metal abrasion, principally in the cam and valve mechanism areas. In line with car manufacturers push towards these lower viscosities in search of better fuel economy, on April 2, 2013 the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) introduced an SAE 16 viscosity which now maruti recommends it viz.0W16
5) Lower-viscosity oils are common in almost all newer vehicles. They will not lower the life of engine.Why would manuf.want to damage engine intentionally with thin oil and bear warranty cost of all car repairs?
Yes, a low viscosity oil won't damage the engine..(Unless it is not recommended). Its just a myth..In reality, it provides more protection in colder conditions...
 
Thread Starter #228

deville_56

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June 2020 - Oil Change Time

With extended long work hours and weekend job schedules, took the car night itself with the plan of changing and it rained. Decided to change next morning saying some lame excuse from work. Just 30 min max job.

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Next morning, jacked up the car and spread some newspaper in case I screw it up.

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Found my DIY oil pan from trash.

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First roadblock. Overtightened drain bolt. Had to fiddle with it a lot to let it go. Dunno why these morons always mess with it.

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and drained the oil.

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Next, oil filter. They "super" tightened it as well. No way it was giving way. Last time oil was changed at Travancore Motors. The same people who installed Opel Corsa air filter in Fiesta.

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Filter wrench was slipping. Filter base lost its shape. Tried wrapping in rubber and cloth and wrenching and it didn't work. Tried pipe wrench, failed as well. Now either I have to get the mechanic home (which as usual ego didn't permit), or to filter and pour back the oil and take to the garageas if nothing happened, or the last option, the old school way, puncture the filter, but if it fail, no way to get the car to garage.

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Took the widest minus screwdriver I had and my Thor hammer and hammered it in and rotated it. At first, the filter was deforming instead of rotating, that much tight. Filter O-ring was kind of flat and flush with the surface.

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The dirtiest oil change in my life. Even the dailies couldn't help.

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New filter.

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Clearly mentioned how to install. Dunno why the idiots don't follow these. Even the trainee would've installed minimum 100 filters in his apprenticeship.

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Properly installed. Hand tightened and wrenched to the point of decent tightness, less than a full turn.

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New SGP drain bolt. Smaller head compared to older MGP one. 14 mm vs 17 mm.

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Longer as well. Aluminum crush washer instead of copper. See the amount of Teflon tape used on the older bolt. They would've screwed it up during install.

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Installed the new bolt.


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Looks like needs flushing. Next time.

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Valvoline.

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Big funnel I got from neighborhood supermarket. Never fitted the bikes. Perfect for car.

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Thick and gold. Pour till the last drop [evil]

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All the weapons used to remove the oil filter. Start to end took 2 hours.

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Capped up. Idled and confirmed level. 3.5 L is perfect. Manual says 3.7, may be for dry fill. Service centers fills 3.1-3.3 L. I insist them on 3.5 L.

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Mechanic coupon. Expired as expected. Mechanic gets the 7th can for free.

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Old oil collected for disposal. Friend of mine comes to collect it for his concrete casting work.

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Thread Starter #229

deville_56

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June 2020 - Continued

Installed new air filter. Mandatory old vs new shots. Around 15k km done on old one.

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Started developing oil leak as expected due to the "extraordinary" workmanship of the previous garage. And as expected, from the drain bolt itself. Loosened a bit and applied some clear gasket maker and tightened up. No leaks till the time of posting.

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No leak from oil filter.

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Easter eggs. Found the old logos inside glove box. Thought the garage guys took it.

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Thread Starter #230

deville_56

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June 2020 - Coolant Topup

Mixed the Ecstar coolant and distilled water in 1:2 ratio.

2020-06-04 11-40-29.jpg


Coolant tank is easily removable, just have to move out the air filter intake, which is held by a 10-mm bolt. Tank has no screws or bolts, sits on the battery bracket.
It can be topped up without removing, but I prefer cleaning it every time.

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Not rusty like usual. Level drop was also minimal.

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Washed off the reservoir of any debris, just traces of fine sediments, not big particles.

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Filled to Full Marking and installed back.

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Surprised to see it's still green for a long time. Usually it'll turn rusty despite many garages fixing it. Travancore Motors did some repair of the coolant system and it's working fine. No level drops or colour change.

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Let there be light - lit up for late night work/wash.

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Hello deville_56

I have tried the boot lamp DIY in my estilo too but have come across a problem
1. If I connect it directly to the power source(i have fuse tapped to get the power source) , the central locking is'nt connected and as a result.
2. If i connect it to the rear door switch (thereby connecting it to the central locking) the front dome light also glows if i operate only the boot.

Kindly help me with the circuit diagram . It will be of great help to me . Please mention the capacitor/isolators you have used
 
Thread Starter #232

deville_56

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Hello deville_56

I have tried the boot lamp DIY in my estilo too but have come across a problem
1. If I connect it directly to the power source(i have fuse tapped to get the power source) , the central locking is'nt connected and as a result.
2. If i connect it to the rear door switch (thereby connecting it to the central locking) the front dome light also glows if i operate only the boot.

Kindly help me with the circuit diagram . It will be of great help to me . Please mention the capacitor/isolators you have used
Almost all hatchbacks are factory wired such that dome light will turn ON with boot opening. What I did was boot lamp will lit up only with boot opening and not triggered by any other door and dome light triggered with every door retained.

But nothing is impossible. You can isolate the dome light.

Disconnect dome light negative coming from door (at the dome light).

Make 5 such isolators, 2 diodes in parallel. Connect the (big) female to door switched x5. Feed the (big) male to stock harness. This makes the central locking work and isolated from the dome/boot light.

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Connect the remaining diode from the boot lid switch to boot lamp.
Connect the remaining diodes from 4 doors and feed to dome light door signal instead of the one coming from the stock harness.

Now you have 3 perfect isolated circuits.
1. One for central locking, which works with all 5 doors (bonnet also if equipped).
2. One for dome light, which works with 4 doors.
3. One for boot light, which works with boot lid switch only.

Positive for boot lid can be drawn from dome light itself.
 
Thread Starter #233

deville_56

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June 2020 - Throttle body cleaning

As usual lazy weekend with nothing to do because of the lockdown. Checking through WhatsApp status, @Vishak posts snaps of a throttle body. Got the spark, rushed to cousin's house, pulled out the hose and check the throttle body,

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and it was disastrous. Last time I remember cleaning it was in 2013 when I changed the spark plugs and that was just a wipe off with WD40. I should blame myself for not checking it all these years. None of the garages cleaned it either.

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Took car home and started off disconnecting battery.

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Throttle cable removed.

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Hose connecting the throttle body to air filter box removed. Two star screws for the clamps and a connector for the air intake sensor.

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Throttle body removed. Four 10-mm bolts, three connectors and a hose.

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On the work bench. Yuck!

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The Magsol bought for Fiesta.

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Cleaned everything in one go. Sprayed through all the pockets as well.

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Rear side. Gasket was supposed to be replaced, but last minute job and weekend, had to defer it.

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Idle air control valve.

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Pressure sensor.

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Throttle position sensor. @Vishak warned not to touch it.

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Throttle valve and screw for setting idle rpm.

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UCAL Mikuni make. Note the Torx screw holding the IAC valve ruined by some moron. It should've happened before 2013 since no one touched the TB after that. Couldn't remove the IAC and thorough cleaning was not possible.

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Cleaned the hose as well.

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Air intake sensor inside.

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Rain spoiled the installation.

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Rechecked in the morning. Last time, I forgot to tighten the throttle cable and it popped off right at a traffic signal.

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Proper idling. Normally it starts off at 2k rpm and gradually drops to 1k. I believe, it's due to dirty IAC valve. Gotta check after a few days.

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Cousin back to pick the car.

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mayankdixit

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If you want to, you can still remove the ruined screws of the throttle body and replace them with new ones. Only little effort required.
 
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Dont remove the IAC valve unless you have the new gasket for it.I did that and then had to wait till got hold of new the gasket.Since the car anyway was stripped it didnt matter in my case
 
Thread Starter #239

deville_56

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July 2020 - New Wheel Spanner

Misplaced wheel spanner during last puncture. Thought it was lost at the spot. Bought new one. Paid ₹ 190.00. Found old one under the seat.

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Thread Starter #240

deville_56

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September 2020

Picked up after cousin's pesky played on the car. Main thing was the chrome garnish of the grille. Broke it and tucked it inside the bonnet. Fully scratched, but hardly noticeable. RH fog lamp bulb conked off long back and pending replacement.

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Some art work. Last time it was with stone.

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Tried fixing the garnish and fog lamp bulb without removing bumper.

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But ended up stripping the bumper. RH fog lamp access is restricted by windscreen washer tank. Chrome garnish mounts were loose, so had to remove and stick them properly.

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Condition of ceramic holders, installed around 10 years ago after burning stock holders with 100/90 without relays.

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Another long pending job, head gasket.

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