D.I.Y - LED Footwell Lamp & Cabin Lamp for Nissan Sunny


Thread Starter #2
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Parts required:

1) LED Light
Either a LED strip or the blocks should do, color choice is personal. I'm using block type (3 LEDs) white LEDs, 2 Nos for either side and couple of T10 LEDs for cabin lamp

2) Wire
I had wires left from my previous project (forgot about the spec / gauge) Approx 4m will be required

3) 2 way switch
This is optional. I'm using the 2 way switch to operate the foot well lamp in dual mode.
Mode 1: Operates with the cabin lamp (Door Switch / Cabin lamp switch)
Mode 2: Dedicated power (irrespective of doors open / cabin lamp switched on or off)

4) Snap fit connector
To have detachable / removable connection from the cabin lamp to the rest of the circuit. This again is optional. I used the one from one of my left out wiring harness.

5) Fuse & Holder
I ordered through Aliexpress and awaiting delivery. Will be installed after the snap fit connector once it is delivered.

6) Heat Shrink sleeves
Optional, you may use insulation tapes as well. But heat shrink tubes are safe bet with professional touch.

Tools Required:
- Wire Stripper
- Screw Driver (to remove the cabin lamp)
- Scissor (To cut the heat shrink tubes)
- Soldering Gun
- Heat Gun / Lighter (to heat the heat shrink tubes)

01.jpg

02.jpg
 
Thread Starter #3
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Removing the Cabin Lamp:

Cabin lamp with OE bulb
03.jpg

Switched off condition
04.jpg

Notch to insert screw driver
05.jpg

06.jpg

Cover removed
07.jpg

Space for 2 bulbs, but only 1 installed (other one doesn't have the connection / circuit either. This is going to be the next project)
08.jpg

Use a little effort to remove the base unit
09.jpg

10.jpg

Backside circuit
11.jpg

And the socket
12.jpg

Socket removed
13.jpg

Pin configuration
14.jpg
1 : -ve signal from door switch
2 : direct -ve
3 : direct +ve
 
Thread Starter #4
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Output wiring preparation:

Soldered the snap fit socket to the cabin lamp circuit (No prize for figuring out the poor soldering, mechanical engineer is good at welding and poor at soldering)
15.jpg
PS:
I should have used a Fuse Tap instead of taking the +ve from the cabin lamp itself. Ordered the same and delivery delayed.

OE bulb & LED
17.jpg

LED fixed
16.jpg
 
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Thread Starter #5
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Wiring & Fixing:

Removed the door rubber beading and few trims to route the wire
18.jpg

Wire routing done
19.jpg

Circled bolt is used to grab the body earth / -ve for Mode 2 circuit
20.jpg

LED & Switch wiring prepared with heat shrinks
21.jpg

22.jpg

LED block pasted below the glove box
23.jpg

Mode selection switch placed here
24.jpg

Fixed with double side tape
25.jpg
 
Thread Starter #7
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Cost Involved:

LED blocks - 60 INR (30 each)
T10 LED - 50 INR (25 each)
Wire - 50 INR (approx)
Switch - 10 INR
Fuse & Holder - 20 INR (approx, yet to be delivered and installed)
Total - 190 INR
 
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Loved the way you presented this DIY. Rated 5 stars [clap].
Question: If I follow you right, the 2-way switch draws +ve from cabin light source as well as an always ON circuit from the fuse box, correct?

PS - Please let me know when you come down to CBE, would love to say Hi.
 
Thread Starter #11
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Note: Thread now live. Neat DIY. Thanks!
Loved the way you presented this DIY. Rated 5 stars [clap].
Thanks for the compliments guys

Question: If I follow you right, the 2-way switch draws +ve from cabin light source as well as an always ON circuit from the fuse box, correct?
+ve from cabin lamp source is always a direct line (in most of the cases I came across) and the door warning switch is -ve grounded. So either you take the +ve from cabin lamp or fuse tap both should work (and goes directly to the LED) and the control switch is operated with -ve from Cabin lamp or body earth (for switch controlled ON)

PS - Please let me know when you come down to CBE, would love to say Hi.
I'll drop a PM

i want to do that in my k10 (2014) can you help me
Sure, do let me know what help is required.
 
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