Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16


Thread Starter #466
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
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June 2020 - (Murky) Oil Change(d) (and looking for more leaks).

Washed my boy before changing in order to pinpoint any more leaks.

2020-06-28 11-11-20.jpg


And drained.

2020-06-28 12-30-05.jpg



2020-06-28 12-28-13.jpg


Condition of the oil just after 300-400 km poured by Royal Yamaha.

2020-06-28 12-29-18.jpg


Drain bolt with missing crush washer.

2020-06-28 12-28-21.jpg


Oil filter. This is the closest I can get with the real colour of that crap oil. It was more like grey.

2020-06-28 12-32-51.jpg
2020-06-28 12-33-14.jpg


New drain bolt and crush washer. A bit longer than the old one. Old one is that came from factory that survived 1,46,685 km.

2020-06-28 13-22-26.jpg


Old vs New.

2020-06-28 13-22-41.jpg


New bolt in. Miraculously, thread was not damaged.

2020-06-28 13-24-57.jpg


Castrol Power 1 Cruise 15W50, which was brought during early lockdown relaxation, April 2020.

2020-06-28 13-50-47.jpg
2020-06-28 13-51-02.jpg


Oil filter, mentioned in previous post. Made by Mahle.

2020-06-28 13-26-17.jpg
2020-06-28 13-26-29.jpg
2020-06-28 13-26-40.jpg


Old O-ring. Popped off and installed new one. Added some grease (recommended in manual).

2020-06-28 13-32-13.jpg
2020-06-28 13-33-43.jpg
2020-06-28 13-35-32.jpg


Two litre oil jug, struck off from long pending wish list.

2020-06-28 13-35-48.jpg


Hope it's genuine.

2020-06-28 13-36-06.jpg


Took 1.1 L. Different manuals say 1.1 and 1.2 with filter change (Service centre follows 1 L).

2020-06-28 13-38-25.jpg


Conveniently dipped in it instead of pouring like every time.

2020-06-28 13-39-27.jpg


Installed.

2020-06-28 13-40-14.jpg


Funnel with old GT breather hose. Held in place with a piece of wire lying around.

2020-06-28 13-43-11.jpg


Poured easily.

2020-06-28 13-43-35.jpg


Nice deep golden colour.

2020-06-28 13-43-45.jpg


Done. Idled for extensive time and no leak yet.

2020-06-28 13-50-33.jpg


Old crap oil. Thought of keeping it for general lubing purposes, but let it go for disposal.

2020-07-04 11-10-35.jpg
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2020
Messages
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Location
Kerala
Hello brother, hope you're doing great!, I would like to share with you my experience on installing 60/55w bulb on my fz16. I bought a 60/55w osram H4 bulb from local market (Rs.80) and installed on my fz16. Your earlier post regarding fitting h4 bulb on fz16 bike (which comes with HS1 holder) helped me a lot in fitting the bulb into the headlight unit. I flattened the metal flanges on the bulb's rim just like you did and the bulb snugged in perfectly. When I turned the headlights on I found that the light was not as bright despite new battery. Even at higher rpms, the brightness did not increase by any noticeable margin. I was a little disappointed and thought of putting back the stock Phoenix 35/35w bulb. I unscrewed the headlight unit and as I was pulling out the plug, The earth wire (negative) got ripped off the plug. When I checked the other two wires (high and low beam) to the plug, I found that they were also very loose and one looked like cut inside. Then I peeled the insulation off of the three wires to connect them with new pieces of wires to the plug, I found that all the three wires have been oxidized that the color of the copper inside have looks black. It looked like the time to change the whole wiring. What I immediately wanted was to get the headlight back to working condition. The idea that came into my mind then was to install a relay for the headlight circuit. I purchased a relay unit, some wire, fuses and ceramic sockets (I have a previous experience of installing dual relay on car) costing me Rs.350 in total. So I installed the relay harness. The result was absolutely incredible. The brightness of even the 35/35w bulb was so good. The color temperature of the bulb increased by a huge margin which used to be very yellowish. Then I installed the 60/55w bulb. The brightness was insane. I was so proud of my decision to install a relay instead of changing the whole wiring. So everything went well, only to disappoint me later. I had to take a 2 hour night ride the next day. I started noticing a change in the pattern of beam cast by the headlight on the road when I was nearing my destination. I thought then that it was a false perception. But as I checked the headlight when I reached the destination, what I found was shocking. The headlight reflector had started melting. I could come back home only the next day during the day time. When I got back home, I unscrewed the unit and checked the whole set up: the relay, wiring, fuses socket...Etc. Everything looked normal and new. No problem at all. No sign of heated wiring, relay or anything. After a thorough inspection, I concluded that the reflector could not withstand the heat produced by the 60/55w bulb. The maximum it could stand was 35/35w. This was my second headlight unit. I replaced the unit only a couple of months ago. This was not Genuine Yamaha branded unit. This was made by Uno Minda. The local spare parts shop convinced me during the purchase that Uno Minda is a popular brand which makes electrical parts for automobile manufacturers and the item would be just as good as the unit I get from Yamaha genuine parts shop. The pricing was also very compelling : just 750 for the unit (without bulbs). I felt so disappointed. I read through your posts again and understood that you have been using this 60/55 bulbs for a long time. Have you ever felt this heating issue? I am so confused as to what to do next. I want to know whether the genuine unit would have the same problem or not. I also would like to know, if changing the headlight unit to a universal-fit round one (round like the Royal Enfield Bullet headlight with a metal reflector) would be an illegal modification in Kerala. Kindly share your thoughts
Screenshot_20200724-204549_Gallery.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
998
Likes
784
Location
Trivandrum
June 2020 - (Murky) Oil Change(d) (and looking for more leaks).

Washed my boy before changing in order to pinpoint any more leaks.

View attachment 279582

And drained.

View attachment 279586


View attachment 279583

Condition of the oil just after 300-400 km poured by Royal Yamaha.

View attachment 279585

Drain bolt with missing crush washer.

View attachment 279584

Oil filter. This is the closest I can get with the real colour of that crap oil. It was more like grey.

View attachment 279587 View attachment 279588

New drain bolt and crush washer. A bit longer than the old one. Old one is that came from factory that survived 1,46,685 km.

View attachment 279589

Old vs New.

View attachment 279590

New bolt in. Miraculously, thread was not damaged.

View attachment 279591

Castrol Power 1 Cruise 15W50, which was brought during early lockdown relaxation, April 2020.

View attachment 279607 View attachment 279608

Oil filter, mentioned in previous post. Made by Mahle.

View attachment 279592 View attachment 279593 View attachment 279594

Old O-ring. Popped off and installed new one. Added some grease (recommended in manual).

View attachment 279595 View attachment 279596 View attachment 279597

Two litre oil jug, struck off from long pending wish list.

View attachment 279598

Hope it's genuine.

View attachment 279599

Took 1.1 L. Different manuals say 1.1 and 1.2 with filter change (Service centre follows 1 L).

View attachment 279600

Conveniently dipped in it instead of pouring like every time.

View attachment 279601

Installed.

View attachment 279602

Funnel with old GT breather hose. Held in place with a piece of wire lying around.

View attachment 279603

Poured easily.

View attachment 279604

Nice deep golden colour.

View attachment 279605

Done. Idled for extensive time and no leak yet.

View attachment 279606

Old crap oil. Thought of keeping it for general lubing purposes, but let it go for disposal.

View attachment 279609

Ah Royale Yamaha! I'm amused from how good to how bad they can go. I stopped going there for the past 2 years. Professionalism is one thing that Royale Yamaha never had/has!
 
Thread Starter #469
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
2,097
Likes
1,561
Location
Trivandrum
Hello brother, hope you're doing great!, I would like to share with you my experience on installing 60/55w bulb on my fz16. I bought a 60/55w osram H4 bulb from local market (Rs.80) and installed on my fz16. Your earlier post regarding fitting h4 bulb on fz16 bike (which comes with HS1 holder) helped me a lot in fitting the bulb into the headlight unit. I flattened the metal flanges on the bulb's rim just like you did and the bulb snugged in perfectly. When I turned the headlights on I found that the light was not as bright despite new battery. Even at higher rpms, the brightness did not increase by any noticeable margin. I was a little disappointed and thought of putting back the stock Phoenix 35/35w bulb. I unscrewed the headlight unit and as I was pulling out the plug, The earth wire (negative) got ripped off the plug. When I checked the other two wires (high and low beam) to the plug, I found that they were also very loose and one looked like cut inside. Then I peeled the insulation off of the three wires to connect them with new pieces of wires to the plug, I found that all the three wires have been oxidized that the color of the copper inside have looks black. It looked like the time to change the whole wiring. What I immediately wanted was to get the headlight back to working condition. The idea that came into my mind then was to install a relay for the headlight circuit. I purchased a relay unit, some wire, fuses and ceramic sockets (I have a previous experience of installing dual relay on car) costing me Rs.350 in total. So I installed the relay harness. The result was absolutely incredible. The brightness of even the 35/35w bulb was so good. The color temperature of the bulb increased by a huge margin which used to be very yellowish. Then I installed the 60/55w bulb. The brightness was insane. I was so proud of my decision to install a relay instead of changing the whole wiring. So everything went well, only to disappoint me later. I had to take a 2 hour night ride the next day. I started noticing a change in the pattern of beam cast by the headlight on the road when I was nearing my destination. I thought then that it was a false perception. But as I checked the headlight when I reached the destination, what I found was shocking. The headlight reflector had started melting. I could come back home only the next day during the day time. When I got back home, I unscrewed the unit and checked the whole set up: the relay, wiring, fuses socket...Etc. Everything looked normal and new. No problem at all. No sign of heated wiring, relay or anything. After a thorough inspection, I concluded that the reflector could not withstand the heat produced by the 60/55w bulb. The maximum it could stand was 35/35w. This was my second headlight unit. I replaced the unit only a couple of months ago. This was not Genuine Yamaha branded unit. This was made by Uno Minda. The local spare parts shop convinced me during the purchase that Uno Minda is a popular brand which makes electrical parts for automobile manufacturers and the item would be just as good as the unit I get from Yamaha genuine parts shop. The pricing was also very compelling : just 750 for the unit (without bulbs). I felt so disappointed. I read through your posts again and understood that you have been using this 60/55 bulbs for a long time. Have you ever felt this heating issue? I am so confused as to what to do next. I want to know whether the genuine unit would have the same problem or not. I also would like to know, if changing the headlight unit to a universal-fit round one (round like the Royal Enfield Bullet headlight with a metal reflector) would be an illegal modification in Kerala. Kindly share your thoughts View attachment 279637
Never had any issue so far. Using 60/55W for over 10 years without any headlight damage. Changed headlight once due to scratches and discolouration over time, but still no damage to reflector. Minda also makes FZ OE parts like switch and all. OEM headlight was made my Lumax. Yamaha one was ₹ 990.00 including bulbs and parklight holder.

Ah Royale Yamaha! I'm amused from how good to how bad they can go. I stopped going there for the past 2 years. Professionalism is one thing that Royale Yamaha never had/has!
Unfortunately, he was the closest one. Had to go there even after personally knowing many horror stories.
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2013
Messages
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Location
Lucknow
Never had any issue so far. Using 60/55W for over 10 years without any headlight damage. Changed headlight once due to scratches and discolouration over time, but still no damage to reflector.
Did you do any long night rides (5-6 hours) with 60/55W setup? I just changed stock bulb to 60/55W philips xtreme vision plus and will be going for a 300KM night ride this week. Worried whether i should revert back to stock 35W or go ahead with this one.

You might remember discussion we had over PM a couple of months ago, I replaced air, oil filter, clutch cable and sparkplug on my bike. Old plug had black dry soot on it, turned AFR screw to a bit lean now. Everything is fine except for this irritating issue, Every time i fire it up when engine is cold, it takes significant amount of cranking to start (choke or no choke, doesn't matter), when finally it'd start, it will struggle to idle at ~900 rpm for 5-6 seconds no matter how much throttle i give, revs will not climb. after 5-6 seconds it will start running normally. Carburetor problem right? Still trying to find a competent mechanic, don't have guts to try DIY on carb. One thing i also noticed apart from vibrations is that the bike struggles to cross 108kph. While it used to do 110-114 a few years back.
Do you know the stock AFR settings? How many rotations are optimum? Is it different for each carb?
 
Thread Starter #471
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
2,097
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Location
Trivandrum
Did you do any long night rides (5-6 hours) with 60/55W setup? I just changed stock bulb to 60/55W philips xtreme vision plus and will be going for a 300KM night ride this week. Worried whether i should revert back to stock 35W or go ahead with this one.
Did multiple average 5 hour night rides. My highest was around 8-9 hours. No issue with lighting.

You might remember discussion we had over PM a couple of months ago, I replaced air, oil filter, clutch cable and sparkplug on my bike. Old plug had black dry soot on it, turned AFR screw to a bit lean now. Everything is fine except for this irritating issue, Every time i fire it up when engine is cold, it takes significant amount of cranking to start (choke or no choke, doesn't matter), when finally it'd start, it will struggle to idle at ~900 rpm for 5-6 seconds no matter how much throttle i give, revs will not climb. after 5-6 seconds it will start running normally. Carburetor problem right? Still trying to find a competent mechanic, don't have guts to try DIY on carb. One thing i also noticed apart from vibrations is that the bike struggles to cross 108kph. While it used to do 110-114 a few years back.
Do you know the stock AFR settings? How many rotations are optimum? Is it different for each carb?
Sounds like carb, but can also be related to compression or valve issues. Drop in top end can be multifactorial. Wear and tear can also contribute. Yamaha claimed top end is 109 kmph, so 108 should be fine.

Stock setting is 3.5 turns. I didn't touch setting after installing new carb.
 
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