Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16


Thread Starter #392
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What about your hands?
Or is it some worker assisting you?
Or he is working and you are coolly taking pics?

Nice DIY .Well done.BTW brake work,avoid in rains(moisture).
Golden question
It's me, myself and I [:D]

In between these treasures lies at least 3 pairs of brand new and a couple of used gloves, but can't find them when needed. Indeed, I have to buy new or borrow tools that I already have to do the job. Same goes to auto/electronic/electrical parts/components as well. I keep them safe (and organized [lol]) so that I won't miss them, but forgets where I kept them [frustration]

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Rain is always the unwelcome'd guest whenever I wash or work on them.
 
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Golden question
It's me, myself and I [:D]

In between these treasures lies at least 3 pairs of brand new and a couple of used gloves, but can't find them when needed. .
In that case,I will respect your DIY more, much-much more.
Taking only pics, with clean hands, just to post on social media, while all the hard work + hands getting soiled in grease and oil, + fingers getting cuts and abrasions due to sanding , done by your compounder/mechanic/daily worker/chotu etc etc,who is your paid worker , is no DIY at all, in my eyes !!
 
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Thread Starter #394
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In that case,I will respect your DIY more, much-much more.
Taking only pics, with clean hands, just to post on social media, while all the hard work + hands getting soiled in grease and oil, + fingers getting cuts and abrasions due to sanding , done by your compounder/mechanic/daily worker/chotu etc etc,who is your paid worker , is no DIY at all, in my eyes !!
Those words mean a lot. Thanks. [angel][cheers]
 
Thread Starter #395
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July 2019: Caliper Overhaul:

Surprises on the way. Bleeding nut was rusty and blocked. Have to redo bleeding soon after buying new one [frustration]

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Horrible condition. Opened the hole with pin after vigorously spraying WD40.

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After thorough clean up.

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Installed the isolator.

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and the dust cover.

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Now comes replacing the caliper seals.

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Pry with a screw driver and it comes off easily.

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Remove the outer seal in similar fashion.

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With all four seals out, there would be hardened brake fluid residue on the slot. Clean them out, needs scrubbing.

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Old (visually) worn out seals. They were sealing well.

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New (previously bought) set. (Kept the newly bought one in stock pile).

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Cleaned the pistons.

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Clean the inside as well. There would be dirt.

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Place them back after installing new seals. Forgot to click new seal install. Use a lint free cloth. You can see the cotton waste residue on it. Cleaned it before final install.

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Jugaad hydraulic press. Tried squeezing back the piston in the usual way, but it didn't move a bit due to the new seals. It was Sunday and no workshop or lathe to help. No one had a C clamp either. Then remembered seeing a YouTube video of someone converting a hydraulic bottle jack to hydraulic press using a motor and linkage. Removed slippers and put it in between wall and caliper so that it won't be damaged. Placed the jack over a brick at it wasn't long enough. Slowly pumped the jack and voila [evil]

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One more to go.

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Both pushed in.

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Assembled back and installed. Non-OEM caliper split pins are eyesore.

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Thread Starter #396
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July 2019: Brake Overhaul Continued

Sanded the caliper and masked and sprayed a layer of primer (not clicked)

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Then a coat of metallic black

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and matt clear coat. Painted the window as well (like every time)

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Removed the level window and cleaned it as well. Not in-depth, maybe later time.

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Installed the window/eye back.

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MC kit piston was in pretty bad shape. So one more item to buy list.

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With master cylinder and caliper in place, time for routing the new steel braided hose.

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New hose was at least 10 cm longer than stock and the Pulsar 220 hose. Looked very ugly on trial fit with too much bent to reach the clamp position.

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Rerouted a longer path. Right-left-right.

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Now like ABS way. LOL. Banjo bolt installed.

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Filled the fluid.

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Bled the old school way. Time consuming.

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Cleaned the MC cap and installed. The first gen cap.

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Thread Starter #398
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July 2019: It never ends - Stuff happens - Redo

With the fear of another round of downpour did everything in a hurry and the outcome was leak at both ends. Reason was simple and stupid, installed both crush washers in same side of the banjo bolts, not only at master cylinder, but also at the caliper. That moment [frustration][roll]

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Drained fluid and got things right.

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The savior. Remember Sanjay, another crazy friend mentioning about reverse bleed. After a hard search found a syringe and battery drain tubes. With a couple of layers of heat shrunk tube over syringe end, the tube fitted tightly over the syringe. Need to be air tight.

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Fill in the tube and syringe and push out any any. Hold the syringe upside down so that any air left will be on the top and won't get into the system. Surprisingly it was super simple. Took less than a minute to completely fill the system and took only 20 ml + whatever that was in the tube. Old school bleeding took anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes on your luck (read air in system) and low of pumping and opening and closing. Added advantage was no air at all in a single go.

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Cover the top when reverse bleeding. Fluid will fountain out all over the bike and too bad for painted and unpainted surface equally. Learned hard way [frustration]

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Perfect happy ending. Replaced the screws as well.

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Now rerouting speedo sensor cable to sync with the brake line.

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That too went perfect. Some black cable ties and everything is secure.

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Old brake line.

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Installed back and sprayed diesel for a complete wash.

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New routing, front view.

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Bathed.

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And as expected angry rain done this to me.

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Thread Starter #399
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Very nice. Well done. The pics have come out very clear and self explanatory.
How is the final result?
Is it functioning as expected?
After a couple of screw ups functioning properly, but needs MC kit replacement as the play is too much and the plunger itself was rusted and shortened with worn out edges. Replaced them as well at a later date, will update that as well in chronological order. Still stuck in July [lol]

From stock, there is huge improvement, but since using steel braided lines for long time, couldn't feel any difference, only a still-OE-brake-hose-guy notes the difference.
 
Thread Starter #400
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Never-ending July 2019: Never-ending tussle with rain - Lock set damage and replacement

On a heavily raining night shift day, a smoking-in-rain-colleague called up said a bike looking exactly like mine is lying upside down and rushed to see it lying drenched in rain for over an hour. Side stand got slipped into loose soil, causing it to fall. Whole night was spent worrying about the bike and after the shift, tried starting and all electrical was dead and my heart stopped. Tried push starting, but there was no signs of life either. Fiddling with the key, speedo lit up and bike was cranking fine. It wasn't starting though. Drained the carb. Drained some petrol from tank and checked for water content and there was none. Removed and cleaned spark plug adapter. Removed spark plug as well and checked for signs of water and there was none. Knew it will crank up after some time, left the key with a colleague to check after a couple of hours and took a bus home. Luckily it was sunny in the morning and it started with some hiccup. Took bus for night shift and took key he left at by desk and started bike and rode bike for some distance till the hiccup was gone. All's well...

..until two days later lock set started acting upon me. Had to turn in ON position and adjust key in certain angle to get things going. Sprayed WD40. Tried whatever I could and finally it was done forever. By the time shift changed, back to day shift. Managed to start the bike with pinpoint precision key positioning. Rode straight to the spare shop, which was 20 km away from office, bought a lock set, rode home, didn't take the risk of turning off the bike. The night was spent replacing the lock set.

Lock Set Assembly - 21C-XH250-30 - ₹ 850.00

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The contents - Handle lock cum ignition switch, two keys, petrol tank cap, seat lock set.

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Keys

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Handle lock cum ignition switch.

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Petrol tank cap.

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Seat lock set.

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Installation to follow.
 
Thread Starter #401
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Lock set installation:

Tank cap: The no brainer job. Unlock old one, put in the new one.

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Old vs new.

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Handle lock installation:

Have to remove top clamp for this.

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The top clamp.

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Secured with security torx.

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Security Torx or tamper resistant (TR) Torx key set.

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Required size. TR27

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The tamper-resistant bolt.

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Paint got worn at places.

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Quick paint job.Ran out of primer, have to redo soon.

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Old vs new.Yamaha got only two wires instead of four ones like others. The other two wires are for engine kill, which shorts the ignition coil with ground, there by killing the spark. Yamaha got a different set up. Engine kill switch is actually the CDI on/off switch. Turning off the ignition will also turn off the CDI unit completely.

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Old one was Minda.

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New one was Spark, Minda's new brand identity.

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Installed new one.

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Lastly, the seat lock. Trickiest of the three. Have to remove whole tail end for access. Have to remove both side panels as well for this.

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The lock and key mechanism.

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Key mechanism held in place with just a single bolt.

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By this beautiful piece of clamp.

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Key mechanism - old vs. new.

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New one in place.


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Now the seat lock.

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Another horror story. Lock mount is broken from stress.

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Old lock.

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Remove the cable.

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Old vs. new.

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Install the cable and mount it back. Reassemble whatever left [lol]

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New key and key ring.

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This is not easy. Changing lock set in a two wheeler is tricky. It might look easy in pics.
Well done. Nice DIY.
Slowly slowly you are converting your bike into a totally new bike with all the latest and new parts. This is a good way to increase the life as well as the performance period of the bike.
One fine day we may come to see that except for the number plate everything is changed and the whole bike is new and up to date.
In case you are wondering if I am being sarcastic, No not at all. I wish I could do that for my bike.
 
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Thread Starter #403
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July 2019: 50th Oil Change

51st Liter. Bought Motul 7100 20W50 from Amazon during some random deal sale. Got for ₹ 620.00, MRP ₹ 820.00.

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To make the 50th change special, thought of flushing as well. Waxpol Engine Flush also from Amazon. Got for ₹ 108.00, MRP ₹ 125.00. 50 ml can, recommended for upto 1.2 L. Been a fan of Waxpol since childhood, my first polish was Waxpol borrowed from my dad's friend, which I used to polish my cycle. Even went on to buy one when we bought the second cycle.

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Usage instruction is crisp and clear. Add to oil, idle for 5 minutes, drain.

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Added and idled.

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Drained.

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Oil filter should be replaced without fail during flushing.

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Bought a couple of oil filter. Neighborhood spare guy pushing oil along with oil filter. Got it from Prince, Karamana, who gives any number of it.
Oil Filter - 21CE344000 - ₹ 44.00

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Need 100 ml to soak the filter. Had some left over from Duke's change, but it was 10W50, never bothered.

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Cleaned the oil filter cap and installed the O-ring. Needs replacement soon.

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Soaked oil filter.

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Cleaned drain bolt. Crush washer still in good condition.

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Filled in. Happily revving.

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Thread Starter #405
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Your O ring is recommended ,to be changed,and is not meant to be reused.
These doesn't deform like the normal ones, which gets flat on first use itself. I have changed it only 2-3 times till date. No oil or vapour leaks. Usually change them when they get elongated and doesn't fit the groove. Quality is surprisingly good.
 
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