Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16


Thread Starter #376
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June 2019:

Bought LHS switch assembly as well. Thought of changing both sides together.
Switch Assembly LHS - Minda SW-0639B-M01 - ₹ 340.00 (MRP ₹ 361.00)
Minda makes Yamaha OEM switches.

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Bolts for bar end weight. One side got bend. ₹ 10.00 each.

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Thread Starter #377
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June 2019:
(Continued)

Condition of original switches. Working fine without any issues, but lost the charm.

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Installation. Strip off the tank panels.

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Then headlamp side panels and....

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and the headlight. This aids is proper routing.

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This rubber housing has all the connectors to front end of the bike.

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Untouched for a long time.

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Removed switch one by one. We have to take care of throttle cable and chole cable.

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And removed.

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New ones installed.

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Rubber housing cleaned.

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Spanky new.

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Final.

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Laminated the markings with 3M protection film. Removed them right away as they looked really ugly.
 
Thread Starter #379
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As usual, was sitting idle one lazy noon after night shift and was smoking my head on how to improve the headlight throw as it started raining and absolutely blinded in the highway with no streetlights and only highbeamers. Then came to the mind the broken fog lamp lying around from @varunkumar2910 's, which was tested the whole length of India up and down [lol]

There was no clamps, and wiring ripped off.

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Added wiring and tested, was working perfect.

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Clamp location was pretty tricky and not workable with flat or perpendicular clamps.

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Scars from the spill from Himalaya's. Actually snatched from them as my sovereign.

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Searched my parts bin and found this, an old horn clamp.

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A pair of 8-mm bolts and washer. No identical stuff in the bin

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Voila. Perfect. But the angle of mounting wold be stupid.

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Comes the L-clamp. Added a nut spring, so that no loose nuts.
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Final setup. Now I can pivot and adjust the angle. Up-down and right-left.

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Now where to mount. Perfectly placed headlamp beam adjustment bolt.

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Parts hunt. Missing parts from bin.

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The fog lamp switch. Lucky to find Minda make. For all previous installs got Chinese ones, which faded pretty quickly. Cost was same as Chinese counterpart, only ₹ 100.00.

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Mounted and wired.

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and the final part, the relay. Had a lot of cube relays lying around. Fog lamps drew may be 2-3 A. So safer to use them.

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Wiring. Drew positive from horn wiring, which came proximal to the front end of the tank, so no headache of drawing from battery again and again, only issue was fuse blow will kill both horn and fogs. Wired such that fog lamp will only work when park lights are ON.

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Done and working perfect.

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Thread Starter #382
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That is quite neat DIY. I like the way you installed the Minda switch.
Does it put load on the battery if any?
As far as bike is running, shouldn't be a problem. I think it was 12 or 18 W. Ladakh guys (@varunkumar2910 and his friend) had 2 of these with upgraded headlight bulbs.

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Quite an ingenious idea for the mount. Loved it.
Necessity (and lack of vitamin M) is (are) the mother(s) of invention.[lol]
 
Thread Starter #383
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Final looks.

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Beam pointed to front wheel track, no glare to oncoming traffic.

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Beam throw at night.

Fog only

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Low beam only

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Low plus fog.

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High beam.

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High plus fog.

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100% waterproof.

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And 100% plug and play. 2-3 minutes for install including beam setting. 1 minute for removal. Intending to use only on nights with rain. Night shifts only one week per month and it hardly rains 25% of the time.

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Thread Starter #384
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July 2019:

Gear lever replacement. Current lever was giving lot of sideways play and annoying ki-ki noise when shifting. This is the third lever. Last time it was changed when we have a crash with a dog. Both us and dog were unhurt, so was the Barricade. Only lever was bend. Didn't change the bolt then. 10 years on that bolt and was primarily the suspect of the sound and play. Sideways play also caused wear in linkage rods and they were having play in all directions.

Shift Pedal Assembly - 21CE81101000 - ₹ 250.00

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Pedal Shaft Bracket - 21CF7261000 - ₹ 120.00
Yes, that's the cost of a bolt.

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The lever lost its sheen and powdercoating costs almost the price of the lever itself.

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Rust formation and gap.

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Levers side-by-side.

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Bolts side-by-side.
Teflon tape in old bolt as stopgap till replacing it.

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Gear shaft. Cleaned thoroughly...

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...with WD40 and Maruti's WD40/Rust Smash. Lubed the new bolt with TVS chain lube. It's a good lubricant and an okayish chain spray [lol]

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Installed. It was simple. Remove the pivot bolt with 5 mm Allen bolt. Linkage connects to gear shaft tightened with a 10-mm bolt. Adjust the lever position for best comfort.

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Result: The klutching-klitching sound of gear shift improved to clich-clich (vague shifts to precise shifts) [evil]. With riding boot, took some getting used to the lever as there was no play and squeezing in the boot in between was a bit difficult. Earlier, the linkage used to rub against gear lever and the side stand extension. That also vanished.
 
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Hi...Could you share how much the Michelin / Pirelli tyres lasted?
I drive mostly in chennai, which has best of both world - very good roads and very bad roads. So which one do you suggest?
 
Thread Starter #386
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Hi...Could you share how much the Michelin / Pirelli tyres lasted?
I drive mostly in chennai, which has best of both world - very good roads and very bad roads. So which one do you suggest?
I would suggest Michelin Pilot Street, then Pirelli Angel CT or Sports Demon. Street and Demon lasted 35k km for me with not much damage. Angel is promising. Won't recommend Diablo Rosso for bad condition as it is too soft, mine done some 21k km, may run a thousand more.
 
Thread Starter #387
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Again July 2019: It ain't gettin' over

With current brake lines hitting 5 years and brake fluid more than 2 years old, the itch re-starts for another set of steel-braided hose. Don't want Pulsar 220 hose as it was extremely tight fit with it's short length. Remembered one of my FZ mates buying something from Amazon. A quick hit yielded good result. They were available from 50 cm to 120 cm in length in blue, red, black, silver (colors I can remember) at almost half the price of Pulsar hose. Took some time to decide between black and silver. Chose black over silver as already tried with silver. He specifically told not to buy colored ones as they tend to fade easily (his was red). Opted for 90 cm, Pulsar one was 75-80 cm. Brand was some Shafire, which was just some generic stuff.

Banjo hole size was 10 mm and angle 28 degrees, for 90 mm banjo bolt (Seller specifics, unsure of accuracy).

Cost ₹ 599.00.

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It had 2 perfect sized grommets that fits in FZ's stock clamp (but only one clamp).

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Full spec of the hose. Lazy to Google more.
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Installation to follow.

PS: The dumbest and eventful phase of ownership begins here [clown]
 
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For once I thought that its some new set of ear plugs you are installing on your bike ,maybe,I thought,to listen to music "on the go"!
 
Thread Starter #389
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July 2019: Brake Overhaul - Continued.
Parts acquisition.


Necessary parts before you disassemble.

Caliper Seal Kit - 5US-W0047-00 - ₹ 120.00
Already had a set lying around, but bought once again as it came bundled with the two parts mentioned below.
(Pictures are old, forgot to click due to distress at work).

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Caliper Insulator - 5US-W0068-00 - ₹ 22.00

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Caliper Seal Kit - 5US-W0047-00 - ₹ 120.00

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Minda DOT4 Brake Fluid - ₹ 35.00
One bottle as back up, in case.

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MC top cover screw - Unbranded though bought from a (non-authorized) Yamaha spare shop. ₹ 5.00/peice.


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Caliper Grease - Maruti (TVS Girling) - 99000M25010 -
₹ 12.00/each
Bought from Boodmo, ₹ 15.00 shipping. Bought 3.
Young chap at Maruti Genuine Parts was reluctant to search for it, so the Boodmo. Actually ordered after the install, yet to use it.

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Condition of master cylinder. Rusty as always and screw screwed up by mechanic last time.

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Pulsar 220 hose. It was a tight fit. Extremely stretched in main stand.

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For once I thought that its some new set of ear plugs you are installing on your bike ,maybe,I thought,to listen to music "on the go"!
[lol]
 
Thread Starter #390
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Disassembly:

Remove caliper.

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and brake pads.

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Nature warns: This ain't gonna be right.

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Pump the brakes till the piston pops out. Block the first piston till the second one is completely out.


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Pistons. Still in good shape. Always wear gloves when handling brake fluid.

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Brake fluid will be completely drained by now. Remove the banjo bolt. Note one copper crush washer in either side.

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The banjo bolt.

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Without caliper. Remove the headlight assembly for proper access (than crippled with all them on).

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Use a bigger tipper screwdriver to remove any only stuck rusty screws. A couple of gentle taps with hammer would ease them off. Mine wasn't stuck, so. Remove the banjo bolt after confirming the reservoir is empty. Still it would dribble.

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Empty reservoir.

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Old Pulsar 220 hose. Rusty and crumpled at places, but still strong and not bulged or leaked. New hose with same specs,

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The master cylinder. Clean it well.

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