Audio System Upgrade on Hyundai Verna Fluidic


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first of all thank u niku and saroya for all the help
no i didn't change the amplifier settings , i asked them to open the doors and interchange the speakers. ie i took the FR speaker and installed in FL. so now do you think the amp is fine ?
i don't think there;s any problem in settings at the amp. he messed up the wiring behind the HU.

so when the first installer was done with the setup , front and rear speakers connection to the amp should be like what you said.
at channel 1 and 2 both front speakers and at channel 3 and channel 4 the rear speakers.

but then when i selected the balance to the left , one left and one right was working so he changed it.
channel 1 front left , channel 2 rear left just like your image ( thanks for taking the time :P )

when i asked the subwoofer guy to make everything as before he also made the same mistake or i should say he did it correctly but the wires behind the HU is to be blamed.

and saroya , i did check the fader settings , when i make the setting to the front , weirdly now the right speakers are more powerful
now channel 1 is FR , channel 2 is RR. and when i keep the balance as L5 , all the 4 speakers have same output.
i will get it fixed after my exams or maybe in 2 days. the same friend just told me he's getting his car done from driven. he's making his promotion car so will go along :P

anyways now i hope you understood everything now.

the pic of the subwoofer. when i opened the boot , the wooden plank on which amps are fixed was lying on the subwoofer.
So, I strongly suggest you to get the entire equipment reinstalled. Else, the ICE setup is nothing except money plonked in to the car, literally of no use. You could have got a 10k setup with a powered sub and would have enjoyed it more. The problem now seems to be from the hi-level connection (behind the HU, they would have probably interchanged the several green, blue and white wires there! :stupid:). Now since there is no problem when the speakers are interchanged and every channel of the amp is performing as it is meant to, we can safely assume that the amp is not the culprit.

Your installation was total CRAP, honestly. Get it reinstalled at DRIVEN, even if they say that there's no need, tell them that it is at my cost and they don't need to worry. Do write a negative review (on the forum or elsewhere) to let others beware of that crappy installer from whom you got the setup. Even I get installs done from local guys but I supervise the work (very badly; even the installer gets irritated in some time) and give him a tip before starting the install. [lol] I insist on getting the install done from "Ustad Ji" only and never let any novice (learning-by-seeing installers) come near the car.

Regards,
Nikunj
 
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First of all @Niku [clap] excellent work brother . You explained each and every thing in detail and very clearly .
@Allhyundaicars , brother i am sorry but i really want you to slap your installer[frustration] (ok don't do that i am controlling myself )
I would be more than happy to personally install your ICE if i were near your place. May God bless your installer with some more Brain power.
In your earlier post image showing setting of your amp, confirm if settings for front and rear are same, it seems bass boost is on (not properly visible ) turn it off. and also check the level of both front and rear( should be same).
Don't purchase that converter .
 

allhyundaicars

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haha [lol] guys keep calm. the worse is over [:D] you are getting frustrated just by reading , i faced them.

anyways do you know how much they will charge at driven just for re wiring ? and i shouldn't buy any new wiring right ? will ask them just to correct the wires according to them.

and saroya i didn't purchase the converter. i saw him connecting with 2 channels or else would have bought it unknowingly.
 
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anyways do you know how much they will charge at driven just for re wiring ? and i shouldn't buy any new wiring right ? will ask them just to correct the wires according to them.
Yep. Just tell them that you want to reinstall everything only to avoid niggles in the future. Get the wiring for amplifier (input) checked and corrected if needed. Get all components (sub, speakers, tray) secured properly. No need to change the wiring. Labour for reinstall might cost ~1k or maximum 2k, I would say.

Regards,
Nikunj
 
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Need help upgrading my Verna ICE

Hi Guy's , need your expert advise for upgrading my ICE.The stock system on the Fluidic Verna is pretty decent but it lacks in the BASS department majorly. Strangely , although all the 4 OEM speakers are exactly the same 5.25" with 15 watt RMS , the rear speakers sound very low or very poorly even after fading everything to the rear.

I have been going over a lot of forums and threads ( including this tread ) but I still have just a few more doubts before I get all the parts ready for the install. Some of the threads I have gone through are mentioned below.

Team-BHP - The Definitive Indian Car Community (Fluidic Verna gets novelty ICE!)

Team-BHP - The Definitive Indian Car Community (Hyundai Verna OEM ICE upgrade)

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/rb-201...ont-doors.html

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/rb-201...ent-guide.html

Anyways I got a few stuff's off of my other car which I don't use much, so thought of installing few of those stuff's here in my Verna. I would like to retain the Head Unit as I want the steering wheel and BT controls to remain intact.

Some of the old stuff's that I have are mentioned below with their power ratings.

1) Rear Speakers - JBL GTO 937 , 6"X9" 3 way ,2 Ohms 100 Watt RMS Oval Speakers.

2) Subwoofer 1 - JBL CS 1204T Bass Tube - 12" , 250 Watt RMS at 4 Ohms

3) Subwoofer 2 - Pioneer TS - W305F , 12" , 300 Watt RMS at 4 Ohms

4) Amplifier - Pioneer GM - 6200 F , 60 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms or 75 Watt RMS @ 2 Ohms

Some of the things I am yet to buy to complete my setup are below. I will be shopping for the new stuffs entirely online , so please suggest brands that are available in India.

1) Front Component Speakers - Please suggest a brand between JBL , Rockford Fosgate and Infiniti in the price range of 10,000 Rs. The size should be either 5.25" or 6.5" with an RMS of 100 Watts @ 2 Ohms so that it can match my rear speakers. Hopefully my Pioneer Amp can support all the 4 speakers together.

2) Subwoofer Fully Closed enclosure - This is for the W305F sub which is a free air use sub. I believe a square sub will be perfect but I do not know what should be the exact dimensions/volume for the enclosure so as to get the best bass sound from this sub.

One person in this thread Need help with enclosure specs for Pioneer TS-W305F - CarAudioForum.com has suggested that the best volume would be 3.5ft³ enclosure, including sub-displacement with length 34", height 15.5" and depth 15.5". He calculated it from this thread Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator

I think it will easily fit in my boot but most of our forum members go for a 1ft³ enclosure for the best sound from their 12" woofers. So I'm confused if I should go with 1ft³ or 3.5ft³ enclosure. Please advise on this.

3) Mono Block Amp - This will be either used only for the JBL bass tube or the Pioneer enclosed sub. I won't be using both the sub's together. Based on which sub sounds best , I will use that. Please suggest a good mono amp that can handle either of the subs at a price range of 10-12,000 Rs.

4) Hi-Low converter - Since I'm using the stock unit with just speaker level outputs , what would be the best converter to buy so that it can feed to both the Amps that I will be using. Price upto 3,000 Rs.

5) Wiring Kit - Please suggest any good wiring kit , good brand. Price upto 3,000 Rs.

6) Am I in the right track or is there anything else that I need to purchase ?

I have attached pics of my Pioneer Amp below so that you know what kind of wiring is needed.

IMG_5535.JPG

IMG_5537.JPG
 
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Hi stanjohn123 ! Sorry if i am not in your nice helpful people's list. [:)] there are some suggestion from my side:
http://snapdeal.com/product/polk-audio-db6501/217081?tag=
http://snapdeal.com/product/polk-audio-dxi6500-65-2/638594?tag=
http://snapdeal.com/product/hertz-dsk-1653-2-way/1049915262?tag=
http://snapdeal.com/product/infinity-kappa-5011cs-55-inch/659131
http://snapdeal.com/product/auditor-rip165s-65-two-way/430961?tag=
http://snapdeal.com/product/jbl-gxa3011si-mono-channel-subwoofer/1753852692?tag=
http://snapdeal.com/product/polk-audio-pa3302-2-channel/638693?tag=
There are speaker level input available in your amp, so try that first if it not satisfy you only then go for hi-low converter. And for sub enclosure you can rely upon your installer or a good enclosure maker. All other things you already have are good. You may need power capacitor also. best of luck.
 
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Hi stanjohn123 ! Sorry if i am not in your nice helpful people's list. [:)] there are some suggestion from my side:

There are speaker level input available in your amp, so try that first if it not satisfy you only then go for hi-low converter. And for sub enclosure you can rely upon your installer or a good enclosure maker. All other things you already have are good. You may need power capacitor also. best of luck.
Thanks for the reply Saroya. You're in my helpful list now [;)]

I'm actually deciding between the below speakers. If Polk Audio is better than the below mentioned speakers , which model is it ? If not , please suggest which one I should choose from the below.

1) Hertz ESK 165.5 speakers (90 watt RMS ) vs Focal R165 S2 ( 60 watt RMS ). Both are in the same price range , so going by the RMS rating , wouldn't Hertz be much better as it comes close to power rating with my rear speakers ?

2) Focal R165 S2 vs Focal 165 AS. Both have the same 60 watt RMS but price difference is huge, almost 4000 Rs. Is the AS really worth that much more ?

Yeah I'm going to take a safer side by using the high level input of my amplifier , less complicated and wouldn't have to worry about my installer goofing up the connections.

For the mono amp I'm deciding between Kenwood's 8106D or Pioneer's 7500M.

I'm not sure how many installers actually make an enclosure based on the specs of the subwoofer, so this is a risk I will be taking entirely after going through that web link posted earlier. I think Neil in this thread might have some idea , but haven't seen him around for a while.

Honestly I don't trust any installers as I got my car and ICE screwed a lot of times before , so I'm just trying to arm myself with as much information as possible before I go to them for doing the work this time.

I need some help regarding the rear oval speakers , is it possible to fix it without cutting the rear metal parts below the tray ? Can I make some kind of angled wooden board in a slanting way so that even if I loose rear visibility I won't need to cut the metal part. I have a rear cam so I don't car about the visibility through the rear.

I'm also thinking about adding a head unit but not anything from Pioneer as I'm reading a lot of complaints about their displays getting blanked out and interface being slow. Can you suggest me a good model from JVC or Kenwood or anything better without navigation but must have 3 pre outs ( 4V ) , apple phone connectivity , steering wheel control , rear cam connectivity , 2 USB's etc budget is 25-35,000 Rs.
 
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Pioneer or Kenwood both are good amps but JBL is more VFM. All three can produce 200w RMS . So choose wisely .
Yes those Hertz will be better choice for your front speakers .
Any experienced maker can easily make enclosure box for your Sub , just find a good experienced maker nearby .
I will not suggest you to get your parcel tray cut , because it is not an easy task. Heat and other particles produced by welding tools can damage your car's paint and other interior parts.And if person fails to do it properly it will spoil the look of your car interior. Best option is to get a custom made box or two boxes to install rear oval speakers.
And for HU i will suggest to visit multiple shops and personally check and ask them to audition , clear all your doubts and then finalize, because there are too many models available in your budget. You can compare the screen and audio clarity ,speed and other functions.
SSC130.jpg

mZu6UteKlh_96uSLJfCkqHA.jpg

Misc 911 and 356 0011364423912.jpg

6x9 speakers parcel shelf.jpg
 
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If Polk Audio is better than the below mentioned speakers , which model is it ? If not , please suggest which one I should choose from the below.
As Saroya suggested Polk DB 6501 is a good option. But again it depends on your music taste, Polk is a tad brighter compared to focals etc. As you had Infinity in the preferred brands, you may have a look at Infinity Kappa 60.11/50.11 components too. They fit in your preferred sizes 6.5/5.25 (5.5) also.

2) Focal R165 S2 vs Focal 165 AS. Both have the same 60 watt RMS but price difference is huge, almost 4000 Rs. Is the AS really worth that much more ?
Majorly differences in materials used to build. Find more details in the above links. Can't really say its worth paying 4K extra.

2) Subwoofer 1 - JBL CS 1204T Bass Tube - 12" , 250 Watt RMS at 4 Ohms
Why don't you consider JBL CS1204B which comes with an enclosure (250W RMS, 1000W peak), its an economical option as well.
 
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Yes those Hertz will be better choice for your front speakers .
As Saroya suggested Polk DB 6501 is a good option. But again it depends on your music taste, Polk is a tad brighter compared to focals etc. As you had Infinity in the preferred brands, you may have a look at Infinity Kappa 60.11/50.11 components too. They fit in your preferred sizes 6.5/5.25 (5.5) also.
Polk though they sound great , they are a bit unreliable as far as I've read customer reviews. Anyways I have Polk Audio Home theater at home , I'm just going to try a different brand like Focal this time. I'm more inclined towards Focal Performance R165 S2.

I will not suggest you to get your parcel tray cut , because it is not an easy task. Heat and other particles produced by welding tools can damage your car's paint and other interior parts.And if person fails to do it properly it will spoil the look of your car interior. Best option is to get a custom made box or two boxes to install rear oval speakers.
Yes I definitely will not let anyone torch my car. I'm going either for the custom box or will try my luck at selling the Ovals and buy some decent co-axials for the rear.

And for HU i will suggest to visit multiple shops and personally check and ask them to audition , clear all your doubts and then finalize, because there are too many models available in your budget. You can compare the screen and audio clarity ,speed and other functions.
I'm trying to decide between Kenwoods DDX 7015 BT and JVC's KW V51BT

Why don't you consider JBL CS1204B which comes with an enclosure (250W RMS, 1000W peak), its an economical option as well.
Instead of buying the CS1204B I thought I can just remove the subwoofer from the tube and make a box with the exact dimension of the CS1204B as they are both same speakers only. Someone suggested me that since I don't have such a high demand from the subwoofer , I can just reduce the gain on the CS1204T and it would be perfect for my taste. Lets see.
 
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Instead of buying the CS1204B I thought I can just remove the subwoofer from the tube and make a box with the exact dimension of the CS1204B as they are both same speakers only. Someone suggested me that since I don't have such a high demand from the subwoofer , I can just reduce the gain on the CS1204T and it would be perfect for my taste. Lets see.
Is the cutting-fitting job worth the pain involved?. The factory enclosure will be better choice any day due to its perfect fitting and design unless you are planning any fiberglass enclosures or stuff like that. The bass can be adjusted by the gain (rear channels of 4ch amp/ monoblock), LP Frequency, bass-boost and other settings in HU and amp. If that is the only motive IMO its better to stay with CS1204B. Have you considered any active subwoofer in place of this monoblock+subwoofer setup?
 
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Is the cutting-fitting job worth the pain involved?. The factory enclosure will be better choice any day due to its perfect fitting and design unless you are planning any fiberglass enclosures or stuff like that. The bass can be adjusted by the gain (rear channels of 4ch amp/ monoblock), LP Frequency, bass-boost and other settings in HU and amp. If that is the only motive IMO its better to stay with CS1204B. Have you considered any active subwoofer in place of this monoblock+subwoofer setup?
Cutting and fitting job won't be that difficult. I just need to find a good enclosure maker. The issue is I won't be able to get a CS1204B in India now will I ?

I have 3 options , either I can sell the CS 1204 T that I have and go for something from Rockford Fosgate or I can connect the CS 1204T and see if it's ok after adjusting the gains or I can just remove the CS 1204 T sub and place it in a closed enclosure as per dimensions of CS 1204B , obviously it won't be as good as factory of 1204B but it will be close if the box maker is good.
 
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Is the cutting-fitting job worth the pain involved?. The factory enclosure will be better choice any day due to its perfect fitting and design unless you are planning any fiberglass enclosures or stuff like that. The bass can be adjusted by the gain (rear channels of 4ch amp/ monoblock), LP Frequency, bass-boost and other settings in HU and amp. If that is the only motive IMO its better to stay with CS1204B. Have you considered any active subwoofer in place of this monoblock+subwoofer setup?
Talk about the mid life crisis I'm having [frustration] I sold the CS 1204T and eventually will sell off the Pioneer TS - W305F as well. So I'm on the hunt for a new subwoofer now. Can you or anyone recommend a good subwoofer , requirement are as below

I'm looking at subs between 300-400 Watts RMS , 10 or 12 inch.Which do you think would sound best for me ? I want a tight clean bass punch. I have narrowed down to the following.

1) Rockford Fosgate P3D410
2) Rockford Fosgate P3D412
3) Infinity Kappa 120.9W
4) Infinity Reference 1262 W
5) Kicker 10CVR124

Anything good from Pioneer ?
 

allhyundaicars

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What's your budget for the mono block amp and the subwoofer ? I will recommend a factory fit enclosure. Check infinity reference 1220 se.
And 6.75 speakers can cause problems with the window So won't recommend it, you can use rings but ask the fitter if it will cause any problem or not.
 
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