1992 Kinetic Honda DX Revamp: A Slow Story


Thread Starter #47
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Hello all


It has been quite some time since I updated this thread. The pending works on the scooter was completed by December 31. There was some delay in doing some final finishing touches with the scooter in November, as I was engaged with the selection and purchase of new car .

The scooter is in exceptionally good condition, but the cold start problem still remains. It may be due to the faulty autobystarter in the keihin carburettor. I need to check it later. TAI has been intrumental in igniting the passion to restore, besides motivating me to post my experience.


I beleive the scooter is stock, almost the same way my father purchased it in 1992. I am posting a few random updated snaps of the scooter.


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Brilliant, Trilliant, Quadralliant work I must say.
The scooter actually looks better than showroom condition. The attention to detail is unpassable. Good luck, Wish you many happy miles with the charming scoot.
 
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Update


The engine was connected to the chassis.



It is difficult to do it alone. My wife assisted me for the work. The bolt was inserted and the work was ok. There is a sequence to be followed for shudder free ride. This was told by the kinetic Honda mechanic during telephonic discussions.


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There is an engine hanger bracket attached to the chassis as shown above. I was advised not to remove this bracket from chassis, if not absolutely necessary. Before connecting engine, the chassis mounting bracket should be loosened so that this bracket freely moves up and down. The engine should be attached to the other end of the bracket and bolts tightened loosely. Then the rear shock absorber should be secured to the chassis. The tightening sequence is that, First the bracket should be tightened at the chassis side while the engine is pushed up. Then the bolt at the engine side should be tightened fully. This is done to ensure that the bracket is not sagging. The mechanic told me that this procedure ensures jerk free rides. I hope some clarity prevails in my explanation above.

The fuel tank was fixed, filled and routed. The left and right footboard was connected. A spare old battery was also connected in later stages. I need to purchase a new battery because the old one gets weak durng cranking.

Some random photos


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After engine is fitted, the throttle cable if fixed. The wires of fuel sensor, Plug, Alternator are also connected. I had some problem with fixing the throttle cable. I inserted the throttle barrel 180 degree rotated. It was corrected after many trials. 2T oil was poured in the oil tank and the passage was cleared off air. All fuel and oil lines were replaced with new.

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The engine was now kick started. It roared to life with few attempts and no adjustments were made to carburetor.

The temporarily installed rear wheel was removed and the brake cable and brake shoes fitted. The scooter was now completed. I took a very short test ride sitting in the petrol tank. The initial impression is OK.


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what is the position of the pin of carburetor needle
 
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Hello
I am now pursuing a cosmetic but major stock restoration of my 1992 kinetic Honda DX. This scooter was purchased by my father in 1992 from M/S Century Connections. He used it very rarely for about six years only. I was using it during weekends since 1992 when I visited my home in Trivandrum. Since 2003 the usage dwindled and got limited to less than about 500 Km per year. Till date the scooter has covered less than 37K Kms. The engine is untouched I believe, and no major works had been done on this scooter till date. The scooter developed a rough engine sound maybe around 2002 and some half bearing ( I'm not sure)or so was replaced in this scooter. The scooter has completed two fitness tests from motor vehicles department and the next test is around October 2017.

Based on the minimal DIY experience of a simple cosmetic revamp of an LML vespa Select II, I started it myself as a painting redo. I was reading multiple forums and decided to post my experience here. I joined TAI, since I have read quality Kinetic Honda stuffs here, and many may be perhaps able to guide me. Please excuse if I am late in posting, since I am doing this in my free time and the progress is rather slow. Major works have already been completed while I started this project back in Dec 2016.

A little history about the scooter
As posted above, my father bought it new but I was the single major user from day one. Since I was away from home it has only covered 37K Kms and its still having its OE bando drive belt.
I had some affection to this one because it was a fantastic scooter and my father had purchased it. Also as it would go cheap, I decided to retain it . I started to buy some parts for the scooter as early as 2007 from Coimbatore, Trivandrum etc.. Around 2009, my father asked me to sell it but I refrained. He asked me to change it to my name and I did it in 2010. He expired in 2011 and the scooter was lying idle in my home garage. Once every month I would go there and start it and use it for one or two days. Nothing was done on the scooter and I would entrust an agent for RTO MVD fitness test.
After 2015, the scooter would start and engine would turn off ,the exhaust was choked by some insect nest. Every time I would have to clean the plug and idle it for long to get it moving. The battery was exhausted since long and the absence of choke made matters worse( Kiho has autobystarter which works only with battery. All electrics were not working.
As I am in paucity of time at my home town, I finally took it to my place of work 350 Kms away by train in December 2016. This would be a just a photo compilation of the works undertaken. The restoration period is already nine months .(not yet complete and i expect it to complete it by December 2017)I collected some parts during the past nine years; i have lost track of the amount spent.

The photograph of the scooter now is given below. Just below that is the photo of the scooter while purchased new, 24 years back
Hello. I'm new to the forum. Kindly help me on one thing. I have a similar scooter and I am about to dismantle the body. How do I start dismantling all to the engine and which are the tools used to do so? My intention is to get the engine separated from the body.
 
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Hello. I'm new to the forum. Kindly help me on one thing. I have a similar scooter and I am about to dismantle the body. How do I start dismantling all to the engine and which are the tools used to do so? My intention is to get the engine separated from the body.
Majority of the nuts and bolts are either 10 mm and stars. T-bar of size 10 would be the best option.

To divorce the engine:
1. Remove side covers.
2. Remove plastic panels.
3. Remove platform, both plastic and metal parts. Only here, you would encounter a 12 mm bolt.
4. Disconnect rear brake and accelerator cables.
5. Remove electrical connections to engine, whole this is a bunch.
6. Remove fuel line.
7. Remove breather tube connected to chassis.
8. Disconnect shock absorber from chassis. 15 mm I think.
9. Now remove the engine mount bolt. It is 14 mm on one side and 17 mm on the other side. May vary as I encountered different sizes in 2 different Kinetics.
10. Now the engine is yours.
Hope I covered all the parts.
 
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Majority of the nuts and bolts are either 10 mm and stars. T-bar of size 10 would be the best option.

To divorce the engine:
1. Remove side covers.
2. Remove plastic panels.
3. Remove platform, both plastic and metal parts. Only here, you would encounter a 12 mm bolt.
4. Disconnect rear brake and accelerator cables.
5. Remove electrical connections to engine, whole this is a bunch.
6. Remove fuel line.
7. Remove breather tube connected to chassis.
8. Disconnect shock absorber from chassis. 15 mm I think.
9. Now remove the engine mount bolt. It is 14 mm on one side and 17 mm on the other side. May vary as I encountered different sizes in 2 different Kinetics.
10. Now the engine is yours.
Hope I covered all the parts.
Thanks a lot Deville 56. So I would have to carry ring spanners sized upto 18 mm, right?
 
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Thanks a lot Deville 56. So I would have to carry ring spanners sized upto 18 mm, right?
Yeah, but for size 10, I would strongly suggest a T-bar or socket wrench instead of rings as some sit flush with the surface like the ones on platform. If exhaust needs to be removed without removing engine, then the T-bar would be of great help.
 
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