Further UPDATE to the ISSUE
I am updating the matter which I left long before with questions regarding Repairability OR Replacement of the Fuel pump. Fortunately it is ended up with repairability before it make a big hole in my pocket. Though the DIY saved a lot (about Rs.18000=00 or little more) but cost very little (say Rs.40=00 ! ). I am trying to put almost all the detail for everyone.
After replacing rear wheel and a cover on the fuel filler pipe/hose, all piping-connections from filler mouth to fuel tank were checked and was found o.k.
A leakage of the fuel (petrol) was found from the top of the fuel pump (i.e. also called “Sending Unit”) through a round circle below the main electrical connector. The whole procedure of fault finding is uploaded on YouTube (
Keep the lowest possible level of the fuel in the tank while starting the job so that you may have to siphon-out minimum petrol quantity.
REPAIRING PROCEDURE I DID
(NOTE: Take all the safety precautions before starting and doing work till its proper and perfect completion)
1. Under BONNET/In Engine Room : Disconnect battery -ve and + ve. Remove 30 AMP (green) fuse which feeds ECU and Fuel pump.
2. Come to rear reat in the car. Fold the rear seat and remove the carpet/floor mate and push it at a side.
3. Remove the top plate (six screws).
4. Connectors and fuel pump assembly will appear from top. A matel border cover fitted by 12 nuts will also appear.
5. Keep all the 5 doors open of your hatchback. Lower all the glasses of windows.
6. Clean the top surface of the fuel pump assy. and make marks for all connection as per convenience so that refitting become more convinient.
7. Disconnect TWO electrical connections and TWO piping connections carefully. Of two piping connections, one is little broader then the other.
8. Remark all the different points with appropriate colour marker after cleaning and scrapping surfaces.
9. Keep a 17 cm X 12 cm hard paper (to cover the sending unit assembly hole on the tank) with adhesive tap attached. This will be useful to cover the hole after removing the fuel pump and fuel to get protection from any foreign particles/dust etc. ingression.
10. Pump assembly is fitted on the tank-hole through 12 97 mm) nut-bolts. Open them using T-Shape spanner (it will be more convenient).
11. Remove 12 nuts (7 mm), remove metal fitting peripheral cover, and remove the whole pump assembly by pulling out it very very carefully. Some tilting alertness will be essential as a special care of FLOAT unit while taking the assembly out.
12. Remove the rubber fitting ring (flat and grooved oval type shape) from the tank body.
13. Siphon out the residual fuel from this hole and cover it with a hard paper cover kept ready. This will prevent any dust entry in the tank.
14. At this stage you may additionally do the job of cleaning the fuel tank.
15. The Fuel-pump (Sending Unit) assy. was taken out and dried after the petrol drain from it in normal course.
16. It is visible that the FOUR-PIN connector par is a separate attachment in this assembly. It is fixed in a ring type holder (which is a moulded portion of the top POM (Polyoxymethylene) plate under which the pump is hanging). This moulded ring type portion was found CRACKED from its flat-base surface in this case.
17. This crack is required to be repaired using a suitable resin type adhesive.
18. Selection of an adhesive is also a crucial issue. For that you have to consider the material and location of surfaces where it is to be applied.
19. Fuel Pump Material: It is Polyoxymethylene and in brief it is called POM. Molecular formula is (CH2O)n. Its other names are Acetal, Polyacetal, Polyformaldehyde, Delrin (by DuPont) etc. It is an Engineering thermoplastic, tough, low coefficient of friction, high heat resistant, low water absorption properties. Its Melting point is 175 deg.C. In automobile industry, it is used in making Fuel sender Units, Light/control stalk, Combination Switches including shifter for light, turning signals, power windows, door lock systems etc.
20. For bonding this type of material, usually Epoxides, Polyurethanes, and Cyanoacrylates type of Adhesives are used. I studied literature for many such adhesives, their properties, availability, and ease of its applications. In this case, adhesive must be gasoline resistant or gasoline proof. Finally I selected ARALDITE (Standard). It is petrol resistant, easily available and requires 24 hours for curing. The crack in the fuel pump was covered by applying TWO coats of Araldite(Std), each at 24 hours interval.
21. Clean the Sending Unit assembly and Level Indicator assembly using a soft brush.
22. Clean the surface on the tank where the pump is to be mounted.
23. Place the rubber gasket after applying a thin layer of proper gasket maker (here I used ThreeBond 1140) on it.
24. Apply the gasket maker paste on upper side of the rubber gasket.
25. Remove the protection of hard paper cover from the tank-hole and VERY CAREFULLY (taking special care for the Float and its arm) re-place the sending unit assembly in the tank-hole.
26. Properly and uniformly refit the metal cover and tight the 12 nuts on it.
27.Clean both connectors and both pipes and fit them at their appropriate place.
28.Re-place the Fuse and Re-connect the battery ( + ve First and then – ve).
29. ON and START the car.
30. Observed the fuel pump assembly – all is o.k. - Then refit the lid on it and fixed it with its SIX screws , spread the carpet and lowered the rear-seat on it.
I have tried my best to illustrate the above operations through the following pictures. However, you are requested to draw my attention to any missing information. This will be highly appreciated.
Hope this will be useful to all.
Thanks a lot for sparing your valuable time to read.
Navin Talati / 13-02-2017