Hyundai i10 Engine Turns off Automatically When Car is Running


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I have owned 4 years old Hyndai i10 Magna overall run of this car is about 15000kms, Now I was facing a strange problem in my car the Engine is stopping automatically while the car is running for about 1 km, again it starts after 15mintues but again the same problem prevails.I contacted the service center and reported this problem, there are saying this is due to ECM problem and you need to change it, and they have quoted its price about 40,000 rupees. But I am so much confused, in morning under cold temperature I could able to run my car for more than 30kms but in afternoon under hot condition I could able to run the car for maximum of 10kms before the engine is stopping automatically. I need to know what might be the exact problem and what is the solution for it.
I was getting these indicators displayed in the dashboard while the Engine is turned off automatically.(Handbrake indicator is exceptional)
 
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I have owned 4 years old Hyndai i10 Magna overall run of this car is about 15000kms, Now I was facing a strange problem in my car the Engine is stopping automatically while the car is running for about 1 km, again it starts after 15mintues but again the same problem prevails.I contacted the service center and reported this problem, there are saying this is due to ECM problem and you need to change it, and they have quoted its price about 40,000 rupees. But I am so much confused, in morning under cold temperature I could able to run my car for more than 30kms but in afternoon under hot condition I could able to run the car for maximum of 10kms before the engine is stopping automatically. I need to know what might be the exact problem and what is the solution for it.
I was getting these indicators displayed in the dashboard while the Engine is turned off automatically.(Handbrake indicator is exceptional)
What about the temperature level? Is it has enough coolant? I'm not very clear about the problem but do check out the coolant level. Maybe once it touches max heat, the ecu is automatically shutting down the car and once the temp goes down,you're able to start up.
I'm not sure though,same kind of incident happened with a friend's Ninja. Do Check out.
 
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yes I had checked the coolant level and coolant temperature as well as engine oil level everything seems to be normal.
 
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Only 2 areas of issue:

1. Fuel system: clogged or damaged injector, fuel line issues, fuel pressure regulator.
2. electricals: ECM, relay's, or even simple fuses.

Do you see any eratic behaviour of RPM when you start and idle the vechile? does the car stall when moving from first gear or loss of power when press the accelerator?

through scanning by connecting car ECU to a OBD scanner installed laptop should be the right way to diagnose
 

bhvm

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it could be also be a clogged air Filter that's choking the engine.

does this occur only when moving? what happens If you put car on idle for 10 mins?
 
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This problem seems to be something related to heat, when something works it produces heat, if its not cooled it may stop working.
In your case when you drive a while it stops.
So something is getting heated up and it makes the car stop.
After 15mins when something cooled it starts working.
At cool day, car runs well.
If someting is problem 80% problem's are found from ecu errors,if engine light glows when engine is running check the error form obd .
If ecu is broken, how the car starts? And runs a while, something else is the issue.
May be power supply to ecu also may be,even a regulator.
This is a unique problem .
Take it to a authorised service center which was there past 5years minimum.
Spending 40k for ECU is a pure waste.
Better take it to a good service workshop, even private if the authorised people cant find the issue.
Also if ecu is problem, the obd also will not work. Obd is just like a usb port from ECU.
So dont worry, it even could be a sensor problem. Better take to a good service people.
 
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it could be also be a clogged air Filter that's choking the engine.

does this occur only when moving? what happens If you put car on idle for 10 mins?

No if the car is not running, only if the engine is turned on for 10mins also the same problem occurs

This problem seems to be something related to heat, when something works it produces heat, if its not cooled it may stop working.
In your case when you drive a while it stops.
So something is getting heated up and it makes the car stop.
After 15mins when something cooled it starts working.
At cool day, car runs well.
If someting is problem 80% problem's are found from ecu errors,if engine light glows when engine is running check the error form obd .
If ecu is broken, how the car starts? And runs a while, something else is the issue.
May be power supply to ecu also may be,even a regulator.
This is a unique problem .
Take it to a authorised service center which was there past 5years minimum.
Spending 40k for ECU is a pure waste.
Better take it to a good service workshop, even private if the authorised people cant find the issue.
Also if ecu is problem, the obd also will not work. Obd is just like a usb port from ECU.
So dont worry, it even could be a sensor problem. Better take to a good service people.
I was living in extreme south of India(Kanyakumari district,TN) and here only one Hyundai authorized dealer/Service is available. I had the same problem in September 2014, they said its ECU problem and you need to change it and it will cost around 40k, after some argument with the service center authorities they said that they will send the ECU for service and they charged me 10k for servicing the ECU alone after that I didn't faced any problem of the same till December 2014. And now again I was facing the same problem, I contacted the same service center again they are saying the same(replace the ECU no other option left) also they have mentioned that while the engine is stopping automatically the ECU output to the fuel pump is not coming.

Only 2 areas of issue:

1. Fuel system: clogged or damaged injector, fuel line issues, fuel pressure regulator.
2. electricals: ECM, relay's, or even simple fuses.

Do you see any eratic behaviour of RPM when you start and idle the vechile? does the car stall when moving from first gear or loss of power when press the accelerator?

through scanning by connecting car ECU to a OBD scanner installed laptop should be the right way to diagnose
I didn't seen any erratic behavior in RPM, I don't have scanner

If there is something wrong with the ECU, OBD Scanner should reveal the fact. Was that done?
Hyundai service people near my area said they have scanned the ECU and found the output is not coming from the ECU to the Fuel pump when the car is stopping automatically, but they couldnt able to diagnose the problem why it is occurring only when the engine heats up(after running 10kms)
 
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Hyundai service people near my area said they have scanned the ECU and found the output is not coming from the ECU to the Fuel pump when the car is stopping automatically, but they couldnt able to diagnose the problem why it is occurring only when the engine heats up(after running 10kms)
The rule says that the sensor is supposed to tell the ECU what the temperature the engine is running on. The input goes to a processor(I guess ECU has a processor because it offers user end programming too, BHVM sir, please confirm) which decides if the engine is running at optimum temperature or not. If yes, then the fuel flow will continue and if not, then the fuel supply will be cut off and the engine will stop until the optimum working temperature is reached.

In winters or in cold weather, the engine temperature will take some time to rise - say 30 kms of running. While in hot weather, it rises quickly - say 10 kms of running.

  • Now either the coolant flow has something wrong - then why the thing worked after ECU repair? So we can assume that the coolant flow is right.
  • Or the sensor is wrong, maybe it is. You can get it checked but it will be a hit and trial game for sure.
  • Or the processor is wrong, maybe it is. But why it worked for so long after repair?
Chances are that the sensor which feeds the input to the processor has gone kaput - I don't say that it is wrong. It 'maybe' wrong and 'maybe' replacing it will help('maybe' is the keyword) if it does then enjoy and if it doesn't then you need some serious electronic engineer who can thoroughly check your ECU with all sensor inputs and outputs(there is a whole lot of clock pulse trickery and their controlling, none else).

Better option is to try with sensor and then get your ECU replaced. Or get your ECU replaced first and then try with your sensor if the problem still persists(kuch gadbad hai re baba, try the first one first). And still if the problem persists after replacing both then there is something wrong with your engine block(like a faulty coolant flow line causing coolant not to properly flow throughout the block) and that's what you'd never like to listen.

Are you using salt water(sea water) with the coolant in your coolant reservoir BTW?
 
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The rule says that the sensor is supposed to tell the ECU what the temperature the engine is running on. The input goes to a processor(I guess ECU has a processor because it offers user end programming too, BHVM sir, please confirm) which decides if the engine is running at optimum temperature or not. If yes, then the fuel flow will continue and if not, then the fuel supply will be cut off and the engine will stop until the optimum working temperature is reached.

In winters or in cold weather, the engine temperature will take some time to rise - say 30 kms of running. While in hot weather, it rises quickly - say 10 kms of running.

  • Now either the coolant flow has something wrong - then why the thing worked after ECU repair? So we can assume that the coolant flow is right.
  • Or the sensor is wrong, maybe it is. You can get it checked but it will be a hit and trial game for sure.
  • Or the processor is wrong, maybe it is. But why it worked for so long after repair?
Chances are that the sensor which feeds the input to the processor has gone kaput - I don't say that it is wrong. It 'maybe' wrong and 'maybe' replacing it will help('maybe' is the keyword) if it does then enjoy and if it doesn't then you need some serious electronic engineer who can thoroughly check your ECU with all sensor inputs and outputs(there is a whole lot of clock pulse trickery and their controlling, none else).

Better option is to try with sensor and then get your ECU replaced. Or get your ECU replaced first and then try with your sensor if the problem still persists(kuch gadbad hai re baba, try the first one first). And still if the problem persists after replacing both then there is something wrong with your engine block(like a faulty coolant flow line causing coolant not to properly flow throughout the block) and that's what you'd never like to listen.

Are you using salt water(sea water) with the coolant in your coolant reservoir BTW?
I was using only the coolant prescribed for Hyndai i10
 
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I'm just posting a model:

Your car starts, the pre programmed ECU swings into action and a pre decided fuel flow through the injector and car starts.

As the temp rises, engine load alternates between high and low( acceleration and braking), the injector supplies fuel basis on engine load and ECU inputs, say a heating range where you car engine shuts down.

1. there could be a coolant flow issue where the engine heats up extensively and the ECU shuts down the engine to avoid further damage- should be rule out as the temp gauge is normal.

2. fuel pressure regulator: at idle a fuel pressure of 14 to 18 PSI is required to start a engine and the ECU is programmer for it. As the engine temp rises the fuel pressure regulator sends more fuel. when a temperature is reached, if the fuel pressure regulator is faulty it will stop the fuel to the engine.

3. ECU issue: if there is a faulty ECU issue, the car wouldn't start. But in your case, the car shuts off as at a certain temp. From my experience, A faulty ECU will not start engine. ECU doesn't work on the basis of heat. There could be a some electrical failure that makes the ECU to shut down the engine at a point.

electrical failures could be a simple blown fuse to a major alternator issue. I would suggest you to check the cooling system , fuel injection, whole electrical before going for ECU replacement or repair.

Does the thermostat light in instrument cluster glows while driving?
 
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I'm just posting a model:

Your car starts, the pre programmed ECU swings into action and a pre decided fuel flow through the injector and car starts.

As the temp rises, engine load alternates between high and low( acceleration and braking), the injector supplies fuel basis on engine load and ECU inputs, say a heating range where you car engine shuts down.

1. there could be a coolant flow issue where the engine heats up extensively and the ECU shuts down the engine to avoid further damage- should be rule out as the temp gauge is normal.

2. fuel pressure regulator: at idle a fuel pressure of 14 to 18 PSI is required to start a engine and the ECU is programmer for it. As the engine temp rises the fuel pressure regulator sends more fuel. when a temperature is reached, if the fuel pressure regulator is faulty it will stop the fuel to the engine.

3. ECU issue: if there is a faulty ECU issue, the car wouldn't start. But in your case, the car shuts off as at a certain temp. From my experience, A faulty ECU will not start engine. ECU doesn't work on the basis of heat. There could be a some electrical failure that makes the ECU to shut down the engine at a point.

electrical failures could be a simple blown fuse to a major alternator issue. I would suggest you to check the cooling system , fuel injection, whole electrical before going for ECU replacement or repair.

Does the thermostat light in instrument cluster glows while driving?
The thermostat indicator is not displaying the coolant temperature also seems to be normal, I was getting the below indicators displaying while the Engine is turned off automatically(Handbrake indicator is exceptional i took this photo after applying handbrake for safety)
 

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bhvm

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@ Stingray, TSIVipul, Pravin,
very nice and Helpful Inputs[clap], I would quickly like to add something,

1) Owner, you were saying some indicators were coming up in Dashboard, which?
Also you said that coolant gague is NOT working? It could be a disconnected or faulty sensor. I seem confused by your words. Please explain.

2) yes Vipul, ECU does have a Processor. There are 2 main parts, the CPU and MAP chips. The MAP chips will store all the engine mapping like fuel pressure, RPM, temp compensation etc. Some cars have more than 1 maps. Like Zest which has 3 maps for City, Sport and eco.

3) In case of my Old safari 3.0L It had a unique problem. After driving the beast in Choking traffic (and idling with AC), the 3rd cylinder would misfire and whole vehicle would shudder violently before shutting down. Sometimes we had to push the vehicle out of traffic.

The problem was traced to an Overheating ECU rather than overheating engine or anything! Just like computers, These ECU are covered with metal heatsinks to help cool off. If dust or grime accumulates on the heatsinks, it may overheat and misfeed the engine. In such case Take a 12v Computer CPU fan and put it on the ECU and see if something improves.

4) As the owner said, ECU was sent for repairs sometime ago. Is it possible that the heatsink was not screwed on properly? What exactly repairing was performed? If it involved soldering, hand soldering can come off in Bad roads, In case you can get it re-soldered properly. Was thermal paste applied properly after ECU repair?

5) Buy a Digital multimeter and get us back with the following readings-
Battery Voltage with car OFF
Battery voltage with car ON
Voltage at ECU Pins (if you know how its done)
Temperature of radiator using Thermal probe.

6) Your is a 4 year old car with only 15k Kms running. During such long parking, Other issues like Rats chewing wiring,
Worms making homes in Circuits etc(very hard to find!)
Battery end of life
wires getting hard and peeling of insulation
Rust formation in Water cooling channels and hence Blockage.
etc can come up.

7) as the SVC guys said , Fuel signal is not working from ECU, does he mean whole ECU is dead or only fuel part is not working?

8) I too have an i10 Blue boy 1.1 IRDE and i have travelled 700Kms continiously with speeds upto 140KMPH. I know i10 has a relaible engine and does not overheat that easily. I was doing almost 5000 RPM at 140 for long stretches on 5 lane and temps never went above half.
 
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There is one Issue faced by my friend in his Alto. His car gets heat up abnormally and automatically gets cooled when AC is started (Fan near radiator was only working when Car AC was on). Services center guys also told him that ECM will be replaced. Later they just reboot ECM and issue is resolved.
 

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