Originally Posted by incarnation
do you think in the scrap market you exactly know how much kilometer the car is run when you buy the engine. or does it mean that the scrap dealer who you are dealing with is a MAN OF HIS WORDS and doesnt utter a single lie. how do you determine the age of the engine when you buy it from scrap. Now im clueless in this. if anybody can throw some light into it, it would be helpful for me as well. all i know is check for the engine oil if its thick that means the engine is kept aside for a long time. and most of the salvage yard people never let you check the compression of the engine before you buy it. for that matter even when you purchase a head for the engine i had faced this problem. however the mechanic i had did have a look at the head and said "i think this is fine. but without the test i cannot confirm". is there a sure shot way to find out.
Hi , bro
You asked a good question.
Its a gamble at old market.
I agree its MAN OF HIS WORDS.
But i give you some tips so you can be smart purchasing it.
First of all old engines have lots of carbon deposits in it, the exhaust ports will be full of carbon and it will look full of blackish in colour.
Checking oil sump is not at all a good idea.
You must see the engine no and date of manufacturing in it .
If engine is run about 30 k to 40k
Engine will be aluminum come a bit of carbon deposits over it.
Also clutch will be in its dying stage
You must check the coolent ports for fresh coolent .greenish colourations or no rust in it. You must insert your fingers and check it
Secondly pistons and head cannot be opened and checked.
Also for turbo engines
You can see the fins of turbo either side ,exhaust and intake.
Keep your fingers over its center and try to shake it, if it shakes, turbo is gone
Also chk for oil traces in ports
So lubrication system is not leaking.
So better is
Only buy new engines having aluminum coloured surface
You must also check the injectors and fuel pumps are the oem
of engine, or its the parts of the same engine.
Mostly these guys will mix part's from other engines, or sell any part if some one askes,and will fit back some scrap part to it.
It can be found by checking the bolt paint Marks
Manufacturers draw a line across all blots and nuts for warranty reasons
Check for them .
Also check the gaskets are not new on bit old engines, ie a brass like thin line goes along all scales of engine parts, it air locks the parts from external environment.
If so,they have done some engine work and changed new gasket
If its a new engine its not a issue
Old engines may have been exchanged from some for some engine or even sold there.
So taking a new engine from lot it good idea.
You must source a vehicle from total loss and see the engine init and remove . so u are assured its from that car and its not a unknown sources.
I suggest simple fact.
Buy parts apart from engine internals
Like pistons, block, head (don't buy from old market)
Buy anything other than those.
If you want pistons and head and block, u better buy whole engine for lesser rate, rather than buying parts separately.
So final points
Engine manufacturing date
Coolant ports chk
Turbo fins shake chk
If all pass,you are good to go.