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Dr MUDHAN 8th April 2014 04:25 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Petroholic (Post 378112)
Thanks for the detailed reply.Any idea on which one to go for.

@Petroholic

As you know, the longevity of the battery depends upon the quality of the component inside, and it reflects on the price & warranty period.

Further, the cheaper battery will miss to have a useful gadget – the battery status monitor which will be useful for today’s maintenance free battery.

If you have decided to sell the car at the earliest, go for the cheapest one.

If you are not going to change the car at least for a period of three years, go for the battery priced in midrange.

If you are going to live with the car as long as possible go for the best, priced maximum. You would have also noticed that the price difference is only marginal.

Kichu 9th April 2014 04:24 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by vu2gte (Post 378081)
It can even show 15V or higher when the situation calls for it.

Please explain the above statement when is it required?




"For ANHC wait to make the blue cold icon on the dash to disappear before moving out and then switch on the AC."

This is completely unnecessary as long as you don't rev too high when the engine is cold you can start moving right away and use the ac as well.

."By contrast a mismatching alternator fitted by a bad mechanic will slowly ruin the battery by overcharging it."



It can even show 15V or higher when the situation calls for

An alternator if the regulator is functioning properly will never overcharge the battery even if it is rated at 100 times the required output.


Hi vu2gte, [:)]

As Sir.MUDHAN said, always quote when questing about ones statement to avoid confusion and for being specific.[:)]

Actually it is not according to our requirement.
To my knowledge those situations are according to the Battery Temperature, Battery charge level etc.

Battery charging voltages should be corrected based on battery temperature. This adjustment is referred to as temperature compensation, a charging feature that helps ensure that a battery is neither undercharged nor overcharged regardless of battery temperature. All chemical reactions are affected by temperature. Battery charging is an electrochemical reaction, so it too is affected by temperature. Specifically, cold batteries require a higher charge voltage in order to push current into the battery plates and electrolyte, and warmer batteries require a lower charge voltage to eliminate potential damage to valve regulated lead acid (VRLA) cells and reduce unnecessary gassing if flooded cells are used.
Source:Understanding and Optimizing Battery Temperature Compensation | SolarPro Magazine


Battery Charging: Battery Charging takes place in three basic stages: Bulk, Absorption and Float
Bulk Charge - The first stage of 3-stage battery charging. Current is sent to batteries at the maximum safe rate they will accept until voltage rises to near (80-90%) full charge level. Voltages at this stage typically range from 10.5 volts to 15 volts. There is no "correct" voltage for bulk charging, but there may be limits on the maximum current that the battery and/or wiring can take.
Absorption Charge: The 2nd stage of 3-stage battery charging. Voltage remains constant and current gradually tapers off as internal resistance increases during charging. It is during this stage that the charger puts out maximum voltage. Voltages at this stage are typically around 14.2 to 15.5 volts.
Float Charge: The 3rd stage of 3-stage battery charging. After batteries reach full charge, charging voltage is reduced to a lower level (typically 12.8 to 13.2) to reduce gassing and prolong battery life. This is often referred to as a maintenance or trickle charge, since it's main purpose is to keep an already charged battery from discharging. PWM, or "pulse width modulation" accomplishes the same thing. In PWM, the controller or charger senses tiny voltage drops in the battery and sends very short charging cycles (pulses) to the battery. This may occur several hundred times per minute. It is called "pulse width" because the width of the pulses may vary from a few microseconds to several seconds. Note that for long term float service, such as backup power systems that are seldom discharged, the float voltage should be around 13.02 to 13.20 volts.

Source: LEAD ACID BATTERY CHARGING INFORMATION


I happened to see my battery voltage showing close to 15v in its cold start.
Attaching a video for a proof, sorry for the poor quality video, anyways I have tried to increase its brightness.

12v Battery Cold start Voltage test - YouTube
By looking into the video don't assume that everytime my battery reads 15v and I believe my alternator and battery are in shape. [;)]

Regards.,
Kichu.

Dr MUDHAN 28th June 2014 11:37 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
3 Attachment(s)
BUYING BATTERY ONLINE IN INDIA



Have you ever thought of buying a car battery from an online store in India?

I tried this time for my ANHC (3RD Gen. Face lifted). The experience was exciting!

I never wanted to buy from an online store which sends by courier, rather I preferred from their local supply store and only through cash on delivery so that I am sure that I am getting the right one @ right price!

I found out one and got it what I wanted.

Read here the full story of my experience HERE:

MY ALBUS GETS NEW & THE BEST BATTERY!

with http://www.batterybhai.com/:


deepakkol 20th September 2014 02:06 AM

Battery Maintenance
 
Hi
Like many I have a couple of cars but only one is driven regularly. The other cars and bike are not so much in use. This leads to the battery getting drained and then I cant use it when needed. Any suggestions on battery maintenance?

kenlitting 20th September 2014 07:46 AM

Re: Battery Maintenance
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by deepakkol (Post 407059)
Hi
Like many I have a couple of cars but only one is driven regularly. The other cars and bike are not so much in use. This leads to the battery getting drained and then I cant use it when needed. Any suggestions on battery maintenance?

please refer to the thread on battery maintenance by DR MUDIN. its realy exhaustive well written article.

deepakkol 20th September 2014 12:54 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Hi All,
My original query was
"Like many I have a couple of cars but only one is driven regularly. The other cars and bike are not so much in use. This leads to the battery getting drained and then I cant use it when needed. Any suggestions on battery maintenance?"

and I was guided to this thread. However I missed the answer to my question in this thread. In the meantime I came across the website naredi.in and saw this gadget. Would like to know if any of you have experience with this gadget. Looks like a hit in many countrues and also boasts of many patents.

If I could have feedback , it will be helpful.

Figoian 29th October 2014 03:42 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Hello Dr.

Last Saturday, my Figo missed it's cranking for the 1st time in the last 3.7 Yrs / 66K KMs. Suspected it to be battery as it's time, but was still doubtful as all the other electrical equipments were working fine. Called the FASS SM and he too suggested it to be battery. Our TAI friends too echoed the same.

Called Ford Road Side Assistance for jump start and they are charging a bomb for this small job, Rs. 850! Called Batmobile, a free service from Exide. Though they were little reluctant to offer the service, eventually agreed but for the next day. Then I remembered of my Zero Dep Insurance from Bajaj Allianz, which has a complimentary 24/7 Road Side Assistance. Called them and the technician was at home in an hour's time. Sweet [clap] He jump started it and confirmed it to be a battery issue. Also said, it can work fine for sometime, but will die soon. I agreed, though I wanted to take an opinion from FASS.

Browsed thru Amaron site for the replacement battery and landed in Batterywale.com which is their online booking service. Booked Amaron Flo for Rs. 3900 on Saturday night. They agreed to install it on Monday as Sunday seems to be a holiday.

Monday evening, the technician reached home and tried to remove the negative terminal. He was unable to unscrew it as it seemed to have got a bit jammed. I thought to take it to Ford and get it removed as they have better and appropriate tools. Moreover, I wanted to take the final word from Ford before I replace the battery.

Yesterday, I took it to FASS, checked and confirmed the battery needs replacement and got the nut loosened as well. Then visited Amaron Pit Shop, as it's apparently opposite to my office building and replaced the battery.

Ford offers the OE Motorcraft Battery with 3 Yrs warranty for Rs. 5900. The Service Manager said, they offer free replacement for all 3 yrs, however, the Works Manager contradicted it as Pro-rated for 3 Yrs. I didn't want to take a chance by also spending another 2K bucks. Hence, stuck back to Amaron, though they were not giving favorable feedback about Amaron. Seems, OE one is 390A and Amaron is 360A, which can affect the cranking capacity in cold conditions. I am not sure how much difference will it actually make in practical scenario.

Well, this is to thank you, as I am one of the beneficiaries of your thread. It helped me to analyze, pick and choose the replacement for my OE battery. Many thanks once again [cheers]

Dr MUDHAN 29th October 2014 04:53 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
You are most welcome , Figoian

I understand from your below statement, they are confusing you to make you feel that they are the best.

Quote:

Ford offers the OE Motorcraft Battery with 3 Yrs warranty for Rs. 5900. The Service Manager said, they offer free replacement for all 3 yrs, however, the Works Manager contradicted it as Pro-rated for 3 Yrs. I didn't want to take a chance by also spending another 2K bucks. Hence, stuck back to Amaron, though they were not giving favorable feedback about Amaron. Seems, OE one is 390A and Amaron is 360A, which can affect the cranking capacity in cold conditions. I am not sure how much difference will it actually make in practical scenario.
If it is Amaron Flo ( AAM-FL-545106036), it’s Capacity (Ah): 45Ah with Warranty: Free 24 Months + Pro Rata 24 Months. - Would be the right choice, better than OE battery.

Arijitb 15th January 2015 12:50 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Hello Respected Owner and the Other Experts,

As this thread suggested I bought a Digital LED Voltage meter (single function) from Ebay India and stick it to the charging port as soon as I read here which is nearly 1 Year.

From past couple months (Nov-Dec'14) I've been out station most of the time and as a result the car is hardly go out from the garage. But I somehow mange to provide a routine - By completion of every 7 Days 20 mins Idling @ Garage by me or other Family member.

Now before starting the Engine that Digital Meter shows 12.3 and after 14.2 or more....Now what I 'm worried about is 12.3 reading - As I gather 12.4 -12.5 is healthy reading right ?

My car got no resource hogging Acc installed - just regular HU without any Screen etc. The Car is running OEM Stock Exide battery and the whole system is 18 months old now.

bhvm 15th January 2015 03:18 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
12.3 is still good.
It means that your real battery voltage is about 12.5~12.6 NO LOAD.
As you turn the key to check voltage, Certain accessories, ECU, Relays, Sensors etc come up, hence you see 12.3

For real reading i will suggest using a multimeter and checking directly at battery terminals for real voltages (without using keys)

Arijitb 15th January 2015 03:47 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bhvm (Post 429421)
12.3 is still good.
It means that your real battery voltage is about 12.5~12.6 NO LOAD.
As you turn the key to check voltage, Certain accessories, ECU, Relays, Sensors etc come up, hence you see 12.3

For real reading i will suggest using a multimeter and checking directly at battery terminals for real voltages (without using keys)

No....As I turned the key it goes Acc Mode (accessories) when the normal HU (no moving part) and 4 Door spk come live, Then it is 12.3 v as well if I turn off the HU then it is also same and in this mode nothing come up according to manual other than acc - It is a Maruti.

But once I go to IGN Mode (Ignition Mode) when the Fuel Pump (Humming Sound) - Console Lights - MID / Clock / Fuel Gauge comes alive then the voltage goes down to 11.2 to 11.4 volts and once the Engine Cranked then the reading goes back to 13.5 to 14.0 to 14.2 quickly.

This actually happening - Is it normal ?

Yesterday when I'm idling try to operate the power windows and once I pushed 1 or 2 switch reading drop down to 13.2 / 13.5 volt. (Since the day one I never operate the power windows without engine running as same goes to blower fan).

I never leave the Ign on more than 5 / 10 sec without engine support as I see many car do it during traffic jam / railway crossing as I believe it is very harmful for battery.

bhvm 15th January 2015 04:40 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
what you're seeing is absolutely normal and shouldn't harm the vehicle. my vehicles are often parked for 1-2 months and they crank right up and run without any fuss.

in a modern vehicles, things like immobilizer ,sensor, ecu takes power as soon as you unlock the vehicle or insert the key, let alone turn it to acc.

rahul4640 16th January 2015 09:36 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
One question gentlemen. Please excuse my ignorance. Is it safe to clean the battery terminals with WD-40? Shall there be any possibility of a fire, if I do not disconnect the terminals from the battery and spray a little of it from the side or top?

CRACING 17th January 2015 03:20 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rahul4640 (Post 429665)
One question gentlemen. Please excuse my ignorance. Is it safe to clean the battery terminals with WD-40? Shall there be any possibility of a fire, if I do not disconnect the terminals from the battery and spray a little of it from the side or top?

Yes, it is risk to use WD-40 to clean battery, especially if both the terminals get short with WD-40. Not even water should be sprayed directly to battery or to engine bay. Spray some into a clean cloth and wipe using that cloth.

WD-40 helps to reduce rust in metal parts and clean hard stains. In case of battery body cleaning, oily dust and stains gets cleaned but don't use it regularly.

Note, Its better to use water or water based APC (All Purpose Cleaner) to clean battery body because WD-40 is oil based and is dangerous in case of fire.

Essarr 27th February 2015 06:54 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr MUDHAN (Post 392676)
BUYING BATTERY ONLINE IN INDIA

Excellent write-up on car batteries, and as always into those hard to find micro-details, thank you.

Had the engine in my 2011 ANHC SMT started it normaly would this morning, I may not come across your article (which took almost
all afternoon to read) nor would I be writing this. Yes, the OEM Amaron was dead as a door-nail this morning, after four days of
being parked in my enclosed garage.

The dead battery was sent off for charging and a temporary (same model) one on loan was hooked up. On connecting loaned battery
parking lights came on (even though the lamps are LED), so we know the rest of the story. The dead battery is the same one that
appears in the background of your photo and is 3 years and 5 months old.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr MUDHAN (Post 392676)

Here are some questions:

1. Can a completely drained battery regain its full specified performance level? If yes, how long will is it expected to last.

2. I am aware that this is mostly about Amaron. Has anyone had experience with other brands for a Honda City? I ask because of following reasons:
a. Over a span of 19 years, I have changed batteries twice (OEM + 2 new) in my Esteem, all were Exide and replacements were
maintenance free. That give us an average life span of 6.3 years per battery.
b. A German made car I drove while overseas for 16 years (Varta 55AH) has had 2 batteries, the first change in the 9th year.
c. A pair of Exide EL6-Plus 110AH tubular batteries have been in service with a 24V home UPS system since May 2008 are still
functioning normally (came with a warranty of 5 years and serviced by Exide Industrial every 6 months).
Are we being short-changed in the automotive sector with low life batteries?

If my dead battery has to go RIP, I am tempted to give Amaron-Pro a go, simply based on Dr. Mudhan's choice. Any better maintenence-free one, appreciate if anyone can let me know. -SR
PS. No corrosion on the dead battery terminals.


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