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Dr MUDHAN 28th February 2014 03:39 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by CRACING (Post 369327)
@Dr MUDHAN
Being a ANHC owner, I find very useful data here. Thanks for taking your time to guide us all. I have ANHC VMT 2009 which came with Amaron OE battery with Status Indicator (3rd Picture) and have not replaced yet nor it gave any problems till date.
I would like to check the water level and add distilled water if necessary, however these Amaron batteries look different then standard, semi tubular or tubular batteries. I mean the 2v x 6 distilled water cells. I guess they are inside two square caps left and right (DANGER/CAUTION, RECYCLE & etc warnings written above) but don't wanna take risk opening them.
It would be good if you provide detailed info on how to check the water level and add distilled water.
Also let me know, whether do we need to unplug battery terminals before checking and adding distilled water?
Thanks...
Best Regards






HOW TO CHECK & ADD DISTILLED WATER?


You are right!

We have to pry open those two lids to reveal the filler caps.
However, it is a Maintenance free battery; there is no need to top up with distilled water for a very long period of time unless we notice some problems. Evaporation could occur mostly due to hot environment or over charging.
Longer cranking time / few more attempts to start the engine are obvious signs that the car battery is weak. The indicator ‘charging eye ’ will go from green to grey. The volt would be 13+ instead of 14+
Most of the car battery today is not 100% Maintenance battery. They are ultra-low maintenance batteries and there is a provision to add distilled water if need be.

TO CHECK & ADD DISTILLED WATER:

Please do it in a well-ventilated area.

Wear goggles & gloves for better safety.

Clean the area around the battery terminals and the top of the battery of dirt, debris.

Open the lid / the 6 seal caps if there are by unscrewing it or using an appropriate screw driver.

Try focusing a powerful flashlight on the inner side, and see if there is any drop in the water level.
Add carefully with a syringe (Get a 20 ml disposable syringe from medical store)

Fill to the maximum safe level—avoid over filling or flowing and make sure the cell plates are covered. Some batteries have Min / Max level lines.

Always do in the morning before you start the car and better run the car for appropriate charging.

No need to unplug battery terminals as we are not going to touch the terminals by metallic object.

If required, always disconnect ground Cable first and connect it last to prevent dangerous sparks.

Honda after sale service schedule will take care of this too. You can also tell the service people to take care.

.

CRACING 28th February 2014 04:47 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
@Dr MUDHAN

Excellent. I will try this out tomorrow morning. :)

Thanks a lot...
Best Regards

Dr MUDHAN 28th February 2014 07:19 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Thanks CRACING.
Don't miss to see this video :

Adding Distilled Water to Car Battery Lead Acid - YouTube

kenlitting 1st March 2014 07:54 AM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
DR MUDHAN do add a word about certain battery life enhancing solutions /devices advertised online do they really work i mean prevent lead plate sulfation
eg see link Battery Life Enhancer

Dr MUDHAN 2nd March 2014 12:08 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
1 Attachment(s)
.
Thanks kenlitting for having triggered me to think & analyze over this point.


ALL ABOUT BATTERY BOOSTERS!



Much have not been proven even though some of them say it is documented. Whatever may be, whether it is really worth going for it ?

Please note the highlighted lines in their information. Boosting electrolytes by chemical additives or electronic pulsation is a very slow process and not seems to solve the acute problem immediately. I feel it is better to go for a new battery once the guaranteed life cycle is over.

I personally feel that the electromagnetic interference of lead acid battery electronic pulsar is another head ache. I still remember, how I struggled to stop the spark plug / delco coil magnetic interference to enjoy the radio in those days Premier Padmini car.

Good make batteries will have a quality components, proper maintenance is enough to take care of their life cycle. Cheap quality batteries will worn out completely and may not respond to these boosters.


ADDITIVES TO BOOST FLOODED LEAD ACID


“Adding chemicals to the electrolyte of flooded lead acid batteries can reduce the buildup of lead sulfate on the plates and improve the overall battery performance. This treatment has been in use since the 1950s (and perhaps longer) and provides a temporary performance boost for aging batteries. It’s a stopgap measure because in most cases the plates have already been worn out through shedding. Chemical additives cannot replace the active material, nor can cracked plates, corroded connectors or damaged separators be restored with an outside remedy.
Extending the service life of an aging battery is a noble desire. The additives are cheap, readily available and worth the experiment of a handyman. Suitable additives are magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt), caustic soda and EDTA. (EDTA is a crystalline acid used in industry.) These salts may reduce the internal resistance of a sulfated battery to give it a few months of extra life. Using Epsom salt, follow these easy steps:
Heat up the water to about 66°C (150°F), mix 10 heaping tablespoons of Epsom salt into the water and stir until dissolved. The consistency of the brew should vary according to the extent of the sulfation. Avoid using too much salt because a heavy concentration will increase corrosion of the lead plates and internal connectors. Pour the warm solution into the battery. Be careful not to overfill. Do not place un-dissolved Epsom salt directly into the battery because the substance does not dissolve well. In place of Epsom salt, try adding a pinch of caustic soda. Charge or equalize the battery after service. The results are not instantaneous and it may take a month for the treatment to work. The outcome is not guaranteed.”

Source : http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/additives




LEAD ACID BATTERY ELECTRONIC PULSAR


Srisms – Lead Acid Battery Life Enhancer / Rejuvenator / Re-conditioner / Saver


This is not useful if there is any short circuit in the battery or the plate’s separator is totally worn out or the battery is grown in size or over charged.
The battery voltage should be minimum 11V at the time of connecting the Pulsar (maintained for a week)
Srisms battery pulsar is designed to recondition / rejuvenate poor-functional battery or batteries which have lost their rated capacity. In this condition even exchange rate is too less. This is a12V rated one and is to be used only for 12V rated lead acid batteries only. It is better to use Srisms battery liquid along with Srisms pulsar with charger to charge the battery. In this way the battery rejuvenates at a quicker pace and the charge stays long. This is slow process and usually takes about 3 to 4 months to recondition / rejuvenate / save the battery.
Results will vary largely depending upon the function of the battery and other issues. In most conditions results will start only after two months or so. This is a slow acting principle and will not give you instant results. Not recommended to be used for newer batteries as you will not know the results of the pulsar hence recommended to be used when you find the capacity / back-up time of the inverter battery has come down or the car battery is unable to start the engine. This generally happens after the warranty period. However these conditions may change due to many factors.
NOTE: The pulsar can bring interference to other type of electronic circuits or gadgets, hence keep away any other electronic goods while operating / charging the battery with this unit

Source: Battery Life Enhancer Pulser and Additive to increase life efficiency easy starting of vehicles more inverter back up

Mathew 2nd March 2014 01:56 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
I got an interesting incident on my 2 year old EXIDE inverter battery. It is worth mentioning here. Our 1KVA inverter become very noisy. The inverter technician reported that one or two cells are weak, and hence it take more current. He suggested us to replace the inverter battery, which is EXIDE and have 2 years warranty. The battery technician inspected and reported that water level is over the upper level. My dad put distilled water, but it became over the upper limit. He did not realize the complications. The noise was because of the excess water level, and now working fine when the excess water taken out.

Kichu 2nd March 2014 06:44 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mathew (Post 369975)
I got an interesting incident on my 2 year old EXIDE inverter battery. It is worth mentioning here. Our 1KVA inverter become very noisy. The inverter technician reported that one or two cells are weak, and hence it take more current. He suggested us to replace the inverter battery, which is EXIDE and have 2 years warranty. The battery technician inspected and reported that water level is over the upper level. My dad put distilled water, but it became over the upper limit. He did not realize the complications. The noise was because of the excess water level, and now working fine when the excess water taken out.

How much ml of extra distilled water he poured?
Im asking you why because even thought the level exceeded was with the distilled water, what you have taken out is not the excess of water its the electrolyte of your battery. Its ok if you stored the stuff pumped out of the battery cells, so you can fill it up with the same electrolyte for the next time when is required. Or else the cell may get weak soon.

Anyways. If it is a small amount then nothing to worry much.

narik28 7th April 2014 01:20 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Excellent write up with illustrations.

I too observed that most of the indica cab drivers will hitting the accelerator very hard before off the ignition.

I am not sure whether they followed this approach when their car battery is weak or for any other purpose.

Petroholic 7th April 2014 01:55 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
@Dr MUDHAN;
the amaron battery in my honda city zx is now 7.5 years old and refuses to die.
Some time back I was out somewhere and the following thing happened-
I was in a parking spot in a mall and was waiting for someone for around 45 mins.In this time I was listening to music ( hence consuming battery ). When I tried starting the car after 45 mins it refused to start. I had to call a scooter mechanic from nearby. That guy fiddled something in the fuse box and the car came back to life.
I then went to the amaron store and got the battery checked,surprisingly it was OK.
Since this incident I have covered around 5k kms and an entire winter. Got it checked again during service at honda ASS and they too said its OK.

On the other hand I have sometimes experienced late starting with the car.
Now I am not sure whether to change the batter or not ? On the other hand do not want to waste money and throw it if it is working fine.

So,
What are the periodic checks I can do before a long drive to ensure that the battery does not fail at faraway locations ?
And why do I sometimes experience late cranking even though everyone says that the battery is fine ?

CRACING 7th April 2014 02:04 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Petroholic (Post 377922)
And why do I sometimes experience late cranking even though everyone says that the battery is fine ?

Could be worn spark plug or related engine parts?

Very nice question. Would be glad to hear responses from Dr MUDHAN. [:)]

Petroholic 7th April 2014 02:48 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by CRACING (Post 377927)
Could be worn spark plug or related engine parts?

Very nice question. Would be glad to hear responses from Dr MUDHAN. [:)]

recently got all the fluids (engine oil,clutch,brake,gear oil ) replaced
all filters also replaced.
The car has only done 32k kms and the spark plugs are to be changed at 40k kms so the HASS guys recommended not to get it done now.
( do note that the car is 7.5 yrs old and although the mileage is less but the manual recommends changing of spark plugs every 2 yrs , in my car this hasnt been done even once till now )
The HASS guys follow only mileage acc. to me.


On the other hand I am pretty sure its a battery problem.It occurs very rarely though.But I am little wary since the battery is 7.5 years old .

Dr MUDHAN 7th April 2014 06:13 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
@ Petroholic

A battery of 7.5 year old is amazing & rare. You can read a similar experience of a CIVIC owner from this link : https://in.answers.yahoo.com/questio...5035923AAIFb8w

Coming to your queries-

Quote:

That guy fiddled something in the fuse box and the car came back to life.
If he replaced a blown out fuse, there is a logic behind it or otherwise simple rest might have re-energised the battery temporarily.

Quote:

On the other hand I have sometimes experienced late starting with the car. … Now I am not sure whether to change the battery or not? … And why do I sometimes experience late cranking even though everyone says that the battery is fine?
The reality of the battery status is more known from a cold battery @ morning or at the time of every first starting, preferably by a volt meter... Once it is run for a few minutes, it might have temporally recharged and mislead as though everything is fine. That might be your case.

Generally OEM batteries will last longer than aftermarket one.

The Battery life cycles range from three-to-five years depending on the battery .The battery can last well beyond three years but, at the very least, have its current condition inspected on a yearly basis when it reaches the three year mark. However, the vehicle bad electrical conditions, driving habits, weather and frequent short trips can drastically shorten the actual life.

Sometimes you will not be able to notice a fading battery because of modern design/ technology. Back in the 70's batteries were larger and less powerful. Those days low-end battery made 350 cold cranking amps; today a low-end battery makes 650 cold cranking amps and is smaller in size.

The difference is an increase in the number of plates and a subsequent decrease in the space between them. Instead of a slow decline in performance we are more likely to experience a sudden total failure due the reduced spacing and the tendency to short out a bunch of plates at once.

The warning sign that may indicate the battery is on the verge of retirement:

Slow engine crank- : When you attempt to start the vehicle, the cranking of the engine is sluggish and takes longer than normal to start.

Check engine light: The check engine light sometimes appears when your battery power is weak. Strange system indicator lights–such as check engine and low coolant lights–could mean there’s a problem with your battery.

The swelling, bloating battery case.

Stinky, rotten egg smell: You may notice a pungent, rotten egg smell (sulphur odour)

Therefore,

A weak, dying battery is always a risk, can damage other mechanical components of the car by a stressful start.

The extra investment today is worth the lack of trouble tomorrow. It makes sense to preventatively replace a battery.

It will save you from being stranded amidst traffic (Remember you are an owner of a Honda city [;)] ) by a battery that you can be sure is at the end of its life cycle anyway…

.

vu2gte 7th April 2014 09:59 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
It can even show 15V or higher when the situation calls for it.

Please explain the above statement when is it required?




"For ANHC wait to make the blue cold icon on the dash to disappear before moving out and then switch on the AC."

This is completely unnecessary as long as you don't rev too high when the engine is cold you can start moving right away and use the ac as well.

."By contrast a mismatching alternator fitted by a bad mechanic will slowly ruin the battery by overcharging it."



It can even show 15V or higher when the situation calls for

An alternator if the regulator is functioning properly will never overcharge the battery even if it is rated at 100 times the required output.

Petroholic 8th April 2014 12:49 AM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr MUDHAN (Post 378026)
@ Petroholic

A battery of 7.5 year old is amazing & rare. You can read a similar experience of a CIVIC owner from this link : https://in.answers.yahoo.com/questio...5035923AAIFb8w

Coming to your queries-



If he replaced a blown out fuse, there is a logic behind it or otherwise simple rest might have re-energised the battery temporarily.



The reality of the battery status is more known from a cold battery @ morning or at the time of every first starting, preferably by a volt meter... Once it is run for a few minutes, it might have temporally recharged and mislead as though everything is fine. That might be your case.

Generally OEM batteries will last longer than aftermarket one.

The Battery life cycles range from three-to-five years depending on the battery .The battery can last well beyond three years but, at the very least, have its current condition inspected on a yearly basis when it reaches the three year mark. However, the vehicle bad electrical conditions, driving habits, weather and frequent short trips can drastically shorten the actual life.

Sometimes you will not be able to notice a fading battery because of modern design/ technology. Back in the 70's batteries were larger and less powerful. Those days low-end battery made 350 cold cranking amps; today a low-end battery makes 650 cold cranking amps and is smaller in size.

The difference is an increase in the number of plates and a subsequent decrease in the space between them. Instead of a slow decline in performance we are more likely to experience a sudden total failure due the reduced spacing and the tendency to short out a bunch of plates at once.

The warning sign that may indicate the battery is on the verge of retirement:

Slow engine crank- : When you attempt to start the vehicle, the cranking of the engine is sluggish and takes longer than normal to start.

Check engine light: The check engine light sometimes appears when your battery power is weak. Strange system indicator lights–such as check engine and low coolant lights–could mean there’s a problem with your battery.

The swelling, bloating battery case.

Stinky, rotten egg smell: You may notice a pungent, rotten egg smell (sulphur odour)

Therefore,

A weak, dying battery is always a risk, can damage other mechanical components of the car by a stressful start.

The extra investment today is worth the lack of trouble tomorrow. It makes sense to preventatively replace a battery.

It will save you from being stranded amidst traffic (Remember you are an owner of a Honda city [;)] ) by a battery that you can be sure is at the end of its life cycle anyway…

.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Quote:

simple rest might have re-energised the battery temporarily.
most probably this must be the case.
the guy was a nearby scooter mechanic didnt do anything at all.

Quote:

Slow engine crank- : When you attempt to start the vehicle, the cranking of the engine is sluggish and takes longer than normal to start.
this has happened to twice or thrice.No other symptoms.

Quote:

A weak, dying battery is always a risk, can damage other mechanical components of the car by a stressful start.

The extra investment today is worth the lack of trouble tomorrow. It makes sense to preventatively replace a battery.

It will save you from being stranded amidst traffic (Remember you are an owner of a Honda city ) by a battery that you can be sure is at the end of its life cycle anyway…
This is what I thought but everytime I get it checked the guy says the battery is fine and I am tempted not to throw a working battery. Had got it checked from amaron pitstop guy who said the battery was fine, this was almost a year back. since then the car went to ASS twice for servicing etc. . Each time battery was checked in front of me but it was reported fine.

I think I will wait for 1 last time . If I experience a longer crank I will get it changed.
Checked out the available amaron batteries right now-
Here is what I got

Attachment 131366

Any idea on which one to go for.

Dr MUDHAN 8th April 2014 02:17 PM

Re: Guide: How To Make Your Car Battery Go On & On!
 
.
@ vu2gte

Somehow I am not happy the way in which your queries have been posted.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vu2gte (Post 378081)
It can even show 15V or higher when the situation calls for it. Please explain the above statement when is it required?
"For ANHC wait to make the blue cold icon on the dash to disappear before moving out and then switch on the AC."
This is completely unnecessary as long as you don't rev too high when the engine is cold you can….

FIRST:

When you ask something over this thread, please quote from where and whose posting you have picked up / referring?
‘It can even show 15V or higher when the situation calls for it.’ … these lines are posted by one of the forum member (Kichu / 19th January 2014, 05:15 PM ) and that’s his opinion. I have no control over whatever others say or said. Therefore I cannot explain everything.

NEXT:

‘This is completely unnecessary as long as you don't rev too high when the engine is cold you can….’ - This is your opinion something against my posting so I will explain what made me to write so.



ABOUT ENGINE COLD ' WARNING INDICATORS


There is a reason why I wrote this:

Quote:

‘Check your car dash display, whether 'engine cold' warning indicators are there. For ANHC wait to make the blue cold icon on the dash to disappear before moving out and then switch on the AC.’
This information is relevant to something, or else they wouldn't have bothered to make a light for it.

Engines run safely and effectively in a temperature range which is actually fairly narrow. The temperature gauge (or cold and hot indicator lights) typically measures the temperature of the engine coolant itself.

When the car is first started, the engine is cold, and oil will need time to heat up and achieve good flow for lubrication. Until that temperature is reached, the engine is more susceptible to damage at high revs or under load.

The guidance is, wait for those seconds if you have time & patience or drive relatively gently until the low temp light goes out. In a highly tuned car, with tighter tolerances, this is even more important.

So treat it as a gentle warning & better avoid switching of AC during this period.

If it comes on again while driving, this usually means there is a major problem with your coolant - typically that it has leaked out of the engine entirely so the sensor doesn't read anything! What happens next is that the engine rapidly overheats, destroying the cylinder head gasket, and soon after - the engine itself!

So, if the suggestion from my side is right, take it or if not ignore it.OK?


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